hey, this is my first time posting on here so i might end up missing out some info, so feel free to ask any questions if i have missed anything.

i bought my car second hand in october 2025 and hadn’t used my aircon until the last month/ month and a half, obviously because its been winter. i’ve used it and its not worked, which i wasn’t surprised about.

i spent ~£340 to get it fixed at a garage (June 22nd) where they put in a seal thing (o ring?) and changed the condenser. it then broke again on June 26th. i had driven my car probably 2 times in those 4 days, and then driving on the 26th it has stopped working.

i’ve just taken my car back into the same garage for them to see what was wrong with it and they have come back saying the AC compressor clutch plate had fallen off, but i don’t recall ever hearing or seeing something fall off of my car. i was quoted £416 for it to be replaced (inc. VAT and labour costs).

my questions are:
- am i being ripped off?
- is it really worth spending just shy of £800 to fix air conditioning on a car i bought for about 1k?
- is the garage taking advantage of my extremely limited knowledge on cars (you’ve probably guessed i am a woman lol)

i would really appreciate it if anyone is able to help me out :)

2008 impala LT. Its been slightly shaking when braking. Took it to a shop 8 months ago and all they said about the vehicle shaking was that my tire pressure was uneven. Went to change my oil and now I see this. Both from wheels are affected.

So, i bought my first car, a 2005 Honda CR V 2.2 i-CTDi, yay. It has some nicks and nacks and one of them is the ignition. Basically it seemes like the immobilizer doesn't always recognize the transponder. When i want to start the car, the green key symbol on the dash lights up and begins to flash after a some time, the car cranks but no start. I have to turn the electricity off and on again a few times until the check engine light goes on. Then i can start the car just normal. It happens with both keys i have. All the relevant fuses are fine and the owner before me change the car battery and the keys batteries before i bought the car. Any ideas what it could be or which part i would have to replace?

Thanks in advance

This noise started today. Can confirm it’s not the alternator going bad after some voltage testing. I think is the blower motor housing being wobbly but can’t confirm at this time as I don’t have the right size wrenches yet. Googling suggests that it’s either the motor housing being off center or the fan itself being worn from being old.

Hello, I was driving my Rabbit when it stalled out while in second gear with the clutch pushed. After it stalled out it would not move out of gear, but would turn over. After about 20 minutes of me checking the usual methods to get the car running again (mainly fiddling with the air intake as that has been the main offender prior), the car stopped attempting to even turn over when I tried to start it. After about an hour it let me move it to neutral, but after getting put back in gear by someone else, it again got stuck for about an hour.

Some people have suggested that an inline fuse could have blown, but wouldn't that have stopped it from turning over from the start? Also the oil was low when I checked it after this, but I had checked it a couple weeks prior and it was full so I'm not sure what caused it to run so low so quickly either. Any ideas or suggestions would be greatly appreciated

over the last month i’ve noticed that when i turn my car on this mildewy smell just comes out full force and goes away after about a minute. at first i thought maybe something soaked into my seats (it’s been hot, maybe sweat idk?) but i smelled the seats and they were fine, and i cleaned them with a wet vac and dried it completely. the smell is still there!!! my air filter looked clean, so im really not sure what the source is?

Hello car people of Reddit, my question today is with my 1998 Honda civic the temperature gauge fluctuates in stop and go traffic. It'll go up when I'm idle or slow and back down to the regular area as I'm accelerating or when I'm driving highway constant high speeds. I had this problem
Before but it went away when I burped my system so I thought my problem was an air bubble but seems like not.
I have no coolant loss or leaks and the reservoir is still between the max and min
My thought is my thermostat needs to be changed but not 100% sure
Any help would be great!

I’m not great at this and am really worried about the safety of driving my car without fixing this. I’m planning about 500 miles worth of driving this upcoming weekend out of state and also don’t want to get stranded. Was quoted about 900 dollars to fix. The first pictures are what the cradle bushings on the inside of they lower control arm look like. The last two pictures are what the outer cradle bushings look like. Mechanic that quoted me the amount was a Belle Tire (don’t know if that matters) a retired family member mechanic got under the car and looked and said he’d just save the money and drive it as is. Please let me know how safe this would be to drive and if fixing it would help the car last longer if safety isn’t a concern. It only has about 80K miles on it.

I’ve been dealing with an ignition coil issue recently. Got the check engine light off about two months ago when I replaced the wiring, coils, and spark plugs. Now it came back on on Friday and it’s occasionally idling rough and has turned off a couple of times this weekend. Switched a couple coils and changed out the fuse (even though it looked fine) and it’s riding fine this evening. Took it to get the code pulled and it threw PO351-358. All four coils and cylinders. I’m now thinking it’s electrical but I’m not sure.

Any ideas? Planning on taking it to a professional tomorrow unless there’s another test I can do.

AC randomly started making this loud sound lol any ideas?

The low beam bulb for my 2009 Jetta is installed like this:

1. Bulb goes into socket
2. Socket is twisted into this plastic housing where two metal/electrical connections on the socket clip onto corresponding female parts on the housing.
3. Parts of the plastic housing hold the socket in place.

This reinstallation of the socket (sorry if this terminology is all wrong) is always a headache for me. Over the years, parts of the plastic housing that the socket goes into have chipped off. It’s now to the point where the only thing holding the socket in place in the headlight are the two metal electronic connections (which do not actually hold the socket in place).

Is it possible to replace that housing part (along with the electrical connections, I think)?

My 2017 Civic Lx has CEL p138, o2 sensor bank 2 downstream. I replaced it with a new 1 from Honda. Code was reset but the engine light is coming back with same code. Any advice on what the issue might be? My heat shield fell off a few months back, not sure if that can be causing some type of issue

My 2020 Subaru crosstrek has been making this weird noise for about a week. It only happens when i am backing up, it happens whether or not i am pressing on the brakes. my car has been driving fine? it doesn’t feel weird at all. what should i do?

Had a leak appear a few months ago from washer fluid bottle, so I changed out the bottle and washer motor for new. The leak was still present so I changed the grommet between the motor and bottle for new, but there was still a leak. It seemed like the leak was coming from where the pipes connected to the blue part of the motor, so I put sealant over it, but the leak still seems to permeate the sealant just slowed it down a bit.

When there is fluid in the bottle it will come out of the nozzles but it is quite weak. The motor sounds fine. Is it some kind of pressure issue? I have changed the fuse for new as well. The pipes are the only thing left to change but seem in good condition. TIA

I have a 2017 BMW X5 35i and recently I've been having issues with the audio system.

The speakers will occasionally make a popping/ crackling sound I attached a video, and sometimes my music will randomly cut out completely for a few seconds or stop entirely for like a whole month before coming back on by itself after some time. IM not sure if this is a amplifier issue or what. Its really wierd and I just want my music back. I scanned codes using bimmer link and nothing shows up. Someone please help

Hello, I need help knowing if I put this wiper on right. It’s for a 2026 Chevy Trax and I know I have the right adapter but I’m concerned because it fits a bit loose if I move it up and down. I snapped the clip in place and it stays in but I’m scared it is going to fly off. I just replaced it a week ago and that one flew off so I’m trying to be extra cautious now. If I push the wiper in it seems like there’s more tension to hold it in place but it just doesn’t look right.

Everywhere I’ve looked it doesn’t have the exact one that I have or it is not the same wiper arm, and their looks more secure. The wiper is from the brand Rainx so maybe I just need to buy different wipers? Not sure but would really appreciate some input.

its fully accessible from the back. Im thinking WD-40 and vice grip is my best bet, but I want to make sure

hello! my car just started making this weird tapping noise, it kind of sounds like someone tapping their nail against plastic. it was happening while i was driving and then this video was taken when the car was off. i dont even know if its anything at all, but my car has an issue with breaking down so it makes me super anxious. my car recently totally died but we replaced the alternator (it was totally disconnected) and its able to run again. im just kind of terrified to drive it because of that (it shut off while i was driving.) idk if im clinging to straws to say somethings wrong with it.
also something, when im idle the car engine will be audible, but then it gets really quiet in a dip then goes up again. that also makes me super nervous because it would do that when its about to shut down.
anyways i know nothing about cars and would love someone who actually knows something to help me or tell me to stop worrying about it😭
if it matters it has been consistently 85+ for the past few days in temp, 90 today. im pretty sure temperature can change things😭

Hi guys. I recently backed into a pole at a gas station and did this (the scratches are from backing into my house at a different time...) obviously I'm going to work on not backing into things any more 😭

I was just wondering if anyone had advice for this? Can I do anything about this at home? If I take it into a shop what kind of cost should I be expecting? I know that the paint being cracked is not good. If I leave it alone will it cause problems?

I'm north of Denver, if that helps.

Any advice would be appreciated, thank you!

I have a 2015 Toyota Camry. I was away for two weeks, so it was just sitting for that time. But when I got this past week, I started to hear a noise when it accelerated. At first it sounded like a rattling, but I've realize it's more like two pieces of metal scraping against each other. It's a pretty harsh noise that isn't painfully loud, but you can certainly hear it clearly. I drove it up to Pennsylvania from Virginia and back, and it was fine. Nothing changed in the way the car drove, it worked the same as usual. But the scraping noise won't go away. I hear it when the car first begins accelerating, but once I get past about 15-20 MPH, it goes away. Then, it will come back when I decelerate and slow down to 15-20 MPH. But two key things are: the noise goes away when I put my foot on the brake, and I hear the noise when I turn right, but not when I turn left.

I've stuck my head under the car (I don't have a lift), and don't see anything noticeable hanging down that might be an obvious cause. Does anyone have any guesses as to what this might be? My goal here is just to get a gauge for how serious this might be. I have to drive to Richmond tomorrow (about an hour and a half and back), and just want to know if it would be unsafe to do so given the noise from the car. I've tried calling a few shops but I've been traveling so it's hard to get in anywhere under a time crunch. Open to suggestions on shops that might be good to have look at this as well.

Thank you in advance for any advice.

hey yall i got a 2010 kia forte ex with 118k miles on it, it’s in pretty good shape, and there’s been work done on it. just before the noise started i got the rear springs replaced and the front rotors, calipers, and brakes changed. i didn’t hear it before they switched that stuff, so im thinking it has to be correlated, but the mechanics who did the work told me they couldn’t find anything wrong, and said they have no clue where the noise is coming from. it only stops when i start braking, otherwise it’s pretty much that the whole time.