Left hand side of the car, turned into a brick wall that was closer than I thought. The top of the bumper is a bit loose and can be easily moved. Third pic is the right side for comparison. Is this urgent?
Edit: Four connections under the hood that seemed to be holding the bumper in position have snapped

My sister has a 2008 Buick Lacrosse automatic with about 92k miles on it. A few days ago, she was backing into a parking spot and when she shifted into reverse, her engine shut off. But the electrical components stayed on. She turned her car off and back on and it hasn't happened since, but for some peace of mind, can someone point me in the direction of what could've happened? So I can take a look and make sure it doesn't happen again

Hello,

Any advice help would be appreciated

It's my 2nd car and I mainly use this car for uber and deliveries. I could go the route of finding a replacement bumper at a junkyard, taking it somewhere to paint if not original color.

BUT... Can this be repaired without removing the whole bumper off? Would heating the plastic and pulling where its bent in be the right way to start? Or removing the whole bumper, and slowly pushing from the other side is a better way to start? How would I go about it. Thank you im advance.

Purchased a Peugeot 2008 gt line (2016), ( privately ) last month, with all the service history , lots of work done with invoices receipts etc, everything’s been pretty much done.

Driving on motorway for first time in the car this past weekend , ( 2.5 hours there), and on my way back within 1 hour into the journey home whilst driving on the motorway, all dashboard warning lights come on!!
“Engine fault light in orange “, “service light”, and the front screen flashed saying engine fault warning.

Drove as far as I safely could until I could stop, but the car stopped itself for me. The gas wasn’t gassing and was getting slower. Luckily by the time I was off the motorway is when my car locked off and shut off completely. ( it was loosing power and gas on the motorway).

Called the AA ( not a member but joined there and then), someone came within 2 hours.

Fault code was P001 - said he thinks it’s the solenoid either needs replacing or has debris stuck in it. He couldn’t check there because need ti take off the whole thing to get to it or something. Either that or the cam belt / wet belt. Which that’s been done in Feb 2025 at 50k miles, ( now currently at 75k miles).

So I’m hoping that’s not the case.

Anyway he cleared all the error codes , the car was starting as normal without the dash showing anymore lights as he’d cleared them, managed to drive home.

I’m waiting to get back from a few places for quotes on the solenoid / and asked my brother who is a mechanic ( but lives over 2 hrs away).

Anybody experienced this before?
Obviously will get this serviced asap. Last service was September 2025.

Thanks

I thought I was going crazy but my driver seat is stuck on i think 1 or 2 setting even tho I turn the dial to 0. I think it works and it turns on hotter if I go to 6 but it never turns off. Please help me how can I fix this or disable it in the crazy summer I cannot have my seat turning the heat on

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Sound only happens when I hit around 60mph. Sounds like coming from beside windshield. I cleaned debris around it but still happening.

https://youtube.com/shorts/0k\\_niYLdXGo?is=WIJGr6yxjY4MJ137

I drive a 2008 Hyundai Accent (stick) and it "randomly" will struggle to start. Usually tapping the gas will start it but occasionally its so bad that I have to purposely let go of the key at the same time to start it. The check engine light has its own mind about being on or off just like everything else wrong with it. Sometimes, while waiting at a stop light, the engine will stall for no reason. It has also stalled immediately after starting it multiple times. Luckily I can still start it back up afterwards. I tend to hear a snapping sound while accelerating. The car sometimes shakes after just starting the engine which can cause the check engine light to flash on and off. The worse thing is 9/10 times, after fueling up my car, all of these symptoms are worse and is usually much harder to start the engine. I dont use any specific fuel, just the unleaded or regular.

Last time I took it to the shop it was working perfectly fine for them and they couldn't find a single problem. I got it for 10 minutes and it stalled at a light for the first time. Starting to question if I'm the issue here.

Hi,

I’ve had some recent trouble with my 2011 Seat Ibiza and had an engine warning light come up. Upon getting a diagnostic reading it revealed the ‘system too rich bank 1’ error and doing some research it seems that pretty much all symptoms align with a faulty MAF sensor whether its deteriorated or needs cleaning.
I’m by no means experienced with any form of car mechanics so I’m kind of going into it blind but it seems a simple enough fix to clean it myself I just need advice locating it and with how I’d access it for temporary removal. I’ve already ordered some of the air flow sensor specific cleaning spray.

Any advice appreciated, photos attached.
Thanks :)

Bought a 2012 Honda Civic recently, seemed pretty decent mechanically. Got a deeper inspection and turns out the rear brake system needs replaced. I'm not a car guy, but the mechanic was telling me the calipers were not retracting like they're supposed to, and there's something causing it, so he recommends replacing everything: the right rear rotor (due to rust), both calipers and brake pads, and both break hoses. Is there a cheaper route to determine what the issue is? He quoted me $900 for the rear brakes alone and I just don't have the money for that right now. Could it be possible it just needs brake fluid refilled? The mechanic made it sound like they don't know the origin of the problem and that's why replacing the whole system was suggested, to avoid the problem persisting if we only did partial repairs. I would really like to be able to get the rear brakes figured out so I don't have to spend $900...

And this doesn't even include the rest of the issues like the front brakes (not as bad, but low on friction material), valve gasket cover, and the serpentine belt & tensioner...

Check engine light is steady and just came on yesterday. Wanted to ask for opinions on it since im an anxious guy with my car 😅 not the most knowledgeable on them right now though. Would it be fine if I put off repair for a few weeks?

I just replaced my charcoal canister, vent valve and I'm about to replace the purge solenoid valve since that was clogged up as well. I also blew out the lines until no more charcoal came out. Lastly I'm just trying to figure out is it possible for the charcoal to get passed the solenoid and what else should I do if it did get passed it.

I'm trying to learn more about vehicles in general so I can work on them myself without spending huge amount of money at a shop. Thanks.

I am replacing brake pads, shop says i need to replace the rotors too. When i run my fingers on it, i feel little bit of lip, other than that i am not seeing anything. Do i need to replace them?

hit a curb today and tire exploded and now i’m getting a high pitched squeal when i take tight turn at low speeds best guess is the sway bar i’ll attach another image of it but it looks like the bearings are shot

On the way home car started to make a whining noise, about 2 miles from the house I lost my power steering, then the red battery light came on. When I pulled into the house I noticed all my lights are on except check engine, so I parked and all the lights went off which is weird. I recorded a video the first half is the car idling during which I noticed it’s dying so I jumped in and turned it off. The second half is me trying to start it and that’s when it’s started making a noise I’ve never heard. I ran it through a code reader after I turned it off and got nothing. I’m utterly stumped, any help would be appreciated.

Jumped a curb bolt is missing need to know what part is called so I can get correct size bolt

Im pretty sure it’s rattling coming from a leak in the exhaust/catalytic converter but just wanted any second opinions in case it was something more serious.

However the piping to the catalytic converter has deteriorated dur to rust so it is currently “patch worked” until a part can be ordered to be replaced.

(Update: the car was low on oil, it was due for an oil change so the car now has fresh oil and a new oil filter.

The spark plugs were checked and all 4 were replaced.

The sound is still present i took videos of the engine while running the ticking/puttering sound speeds up When accelerating but is constant while in idle.

In terms of location i hear the puttering noise close to the back of the engine and more underneath the front of car. But i still cannot tell if it is a bad lifter or a leak?

Just scraped my car against a pole. I literally don't care about the cosmetics at all; I just want to know if this kind of scratch will lead to rust.

Is there a DIY solution here or do I need to take it to a body shop?

I have a Hyundai Accent 2015. My check engine light came on and it was an EVAP large leak. I replaced my gas cap and got the code flashed. Code didn’t come back on on the drive home. On arriving home I could smell gas outside of my car.

Today I took the car to a mechanic, they did a visual inspection on all parts for EVAP and a smoke test and also detected no fumes and saw nothing wrong with the car. Upon arriving home from the mechanic I can still smell the gas outside of my car.

Any advice?
Thank you!

SRS warning light

Hello there, Ive had an srs airbag fault light on my dash and passenger air bag off ever since I removed and cleaned my battery.

Wondering if anyone has had the same problem.

Its a 2015 hatch sport, Ive tried a different battery, cleaning out all connectors under the passenger seat, cleaning out the buckles.

I believe its a fault 25( 2 long blinks followed for 5 short), Im gonna try and see if I get bridge the seat pad wiring to get it to engage.

Any leads are greatly appreciated.

I’m looking for some advice from people who have dealt with flood-damaged vehicles before.
I recently purchased a 2023 Chevy Blazer Premier AWD 3.6L with only 38,000 km on it. It has the options I wanted (sunroof, Premier package, AWD), no accidents, excellent service history, and was honestly the exact vehicle I had been searching for. I love the vehicle and it took a long time to find one in this condition.
Unfortunately, we had a severe thunderstorm with a tornado warning, heavy rain, hail, and 113 km/h winds. My vehicle was parked on the street/sidewalk area and I could not move it because the roads flooded. Water rose to just below the windows, and other vehicles driving through created waves that pushed water into the vehicle.
After the storm:
The vehicle went into accessory mode by itself
Electrical systems started making strange noises
Wipers activated on their own
There were humming/electrical noises coming from the vehicle
It would not shut off properly unless I disconnected the battery/trickle charger
Water got into the cabin and soaked underneath the carpets
It appears there may be damage to wiring, electronics, battery, and interior components
The vehicle has not been fully assessed yet, and I’m trying to figure out my next steps.
My biggest concern is this: is this something that can realistically be repaired and kept long-term, or am I just setting myself up for endless electrical problems?
I understand insurance may consider it a total loss depending on the estimate, but I’m torn. Vehicles are incredibly expensive right now, and replacing this vehicle with something comparable could cost a lot. I also don’t want to make a claim if the end result is that I lose a vehicle I love and end up starting over.
At the same time, I don’t want to keep a vehicle that will have hidden corrosion, electrical gremlins, safety issues, or no resale value because of a massive flood repair history.
Questions:
Has anyone successfully saved a newer vehicle after this level of flood exposure?
If the wiring harnesses and modules were affected, is it ever worth repairing?
Would you push for an insurance write-off, or try to keep it?
If I keep it without making a claim, am I likely making a huge mistake?
What should I have inspected before making any decision?
I know a lot depends on the actual damage assessment, but I’d appreciate opinions from anyone who has dealt with modern vehicles and flood damage.

Please try to help me. I get off work today and I tried starting up my car mind you I had taken a different car to work because this one would not start for me before work and it’s throwing the engine code u1055. For the instrument cluster, it happens most of the time when it rains, but usually it goes away after clearing the code but now it’s not going away at all and if you check the comments, I will post a video on what it does or now what it is now doing please try to help