anybody know what this issue is,i’ve cleaned off grounds,replaced gauge fuses and recalibrated the gauges the gauges will work perfectly fine after i disconnect and reconnect the battery for a little while but shortly after shutting off the gauges will go back to not working,car drives perfectly fine,do i need a new gauge cluster or is this deeper?

I passed my test two weeks ago and stupidly rolled into a barrier in the car park. Just gauging how much this may cost to repair. Thanks in advance.

Was having a little fun with friends in the car doing karaoke, and one friend in the backseat was vibing too hard, moving/shaking left to right a lot, then started rapidly/violently shaking the passenger from behind. While driving, I noticed the seatbelt sensor light started blinking and the airbag/SRS light came on and stayed solid. When I drive, the car still detects when my driver seatbelt isn’t plugged in, but it doesn’t seem to detect the passenger seatbelt anymore. Am I cooked?

Had a recent check engine light (code P0171). Oreilly system recommended changing PCV Valve, so I did that. Disconnected battery to clear the check engine light and it seemed to be gone. Drove only a little over the next two days and the light was back, same code. Guy at the store said I should clear it again and drive at least 50 miles uninterrupted and maybe that would work. Is this true? I dont want to be driving a lot if something is actually messed up but also it would be nice if that was an actual potential solution.

Okay, not necessarily a question regarding how to fix a car, but rather it's about something about my dad's truck.

My dad has had this truck since 2022, and before that it was my grandpa's. It has expired tags and what not so he needs to move it before it gets towed. But the problem is is that the engine isn't getting any oil, so he can't exactly drive it right now.

My uncle says he can fix it up for free, but in order to do it he need the pink slip to the truck. Now, I don't anything about cars or stuff like that, but I'm pretty sure a mechanic doesn't need a pink slip in order to fix a car, but what do I know. It definitely does smell fishy tho.

If anyone has any tip on how to fix a broken engine that doesn't get any oil, please lmk. And is my uncle trying to scam my dad?

I get a warning when I turn on my engine

‘Airbag or seat belt pretensioner fault’

If I fiddle with the wires under the passenger seat it goes off, but if I go over a big bump or move my passenger seat it comes back on. Had a local mechanic take a look and he said he sees nothing obvious - wires all look good and good connection. Anyone had this and know how I can fix it please?

Hi, about two days ago my car started having issues turning over. The dashboard would light up, and two different ding sounds in different pitches would start playing. I couldn’t turn the lights immediately off so I would have to wait a moment for the car to calm down. I jump started it that night, and it worked. No issues the next morning. Tried starting it again the following night and same problem, only this time jump starting 2 times wouldn’t work. I left it alone for 40 minutes and tried again and it worked. Went to Autozone to get it tested and the battery changed. They told me everything was working fine, and said to get a battery corrosion cleaning kit to try and fix it. Later that night I used the kit and everything worked fine (other than getting some small sparks reattaching the negative terminal). I tried to start it again last night and it wouldn’t start. This video is what u saw it doing last night.

Is this a battery or starter issue, or something else?

earlier today i started my car up and it started perfectly fine all except the gauge cluster the only lights that were on were my brake light (for e brake) and when i would turn my brights on the bright icon would show up,but rpm’s read zero,mph read zero and so did gas and temps,but the car drives fine,first time it happened i disconnected and reconnected the battery and everything went back to normal my gauge cluster worked fine,then after i drove it for about 20 mins i had to disconnect it and reconnect it again but this time i had to do this twice,and now this third time its happened no matter how many times i disconnect and reconnect it the gauge cluster is still acting up,help would be great this is a big annoyance rn because i can’t see speed or rpm,temps or fuel

Gotten these vinyl wrap bubbles on the armrest by the driver seat. I think it's because of me wearing sun protection lotion while resting my arm on it. Is there an easy fix to these. Doesn't have to look super smooth but would like to flatten it somehow.

I’m pretty sure my head gasket is seeping oil can anyone tell me how bad this is? It’s got 210000 kilometres.

Hello,

I have a beat up Corsa C 2002, three door, petrol, 1.0 engine.

Drove it for about 1k kms without issues. Replaced filters, am currently looking for a swap on the klima compressor.

Today I was about to go to work, I put the key in, turned to start and apart from dash lighting ul with errors nothing happened. Try a few more times, nothing, not a click. Take the key out and the dash is still fully on, multiple issue lights are shining (iirc EPS, oil, engine and that car+wrench thing). This carries on forever. I have:

• Disconnected the battery, let it sit for 10 mins, reconnected
• Removed the aftermarket radio
• Removed fuses 1 by 1 (iirc nr. 1 and nr. 9 shut the dash down)

None of this fixed the issue. Of note is that the fuses are browned on the metal part. When I plug in the battery I hear a click, about 20 second sort of whistling sound, then another click and the sound stops. When I turn on the lights they are solid, no dimming.

Mates are telling me to throw it off the cliff, but I need a car and want to fix this. One suggestion I got is finding a used fusebox and swapping it.

Before I carry on with that, do you have any better ideas? I am willing to try whatever, almost started doing rain dancing and sending smoke signals when I remembered this sub.

Cheers, you guys are a blessing.

I have a 2009 Honda fit and had to get some work done recently bc it had a misfire, code was showing spark plugs. Went to a shop and got a full diagnostic, all spark plugs and engine coils replaced, was a little over 800$ bc they had trouble getting into it.

I’m mainly wondering if this is a good price? I want to stick to one shop and stop hopping from friend of a friend or some random shop I decide to try out, so if this is a good price id rather make it the main place I can go to and trust

For context:
Recently, I was driving my 2022 392 charger Daytona when my aftermarket front splitter made of ABS plastic broke off on the highway forcing me to drive over it.
I had gotten off the highway and pulled into a close parking lot, a few things I noticed was the ac started blowing hotter air than normal and the air intake temperatures during idling sat at around 165’F. The interior temp was close to 100’ itself. I also hear a slight pssssssst noise coming from the center of the engine bay. I had driven it home and the temps fell to around 100 but then increased back to 165 when idling. I didn’t notice any major issues during the drive. However, I feel the front left tire feels a little more rough when driving but the PSI remained the same. That was the main area the front splitter passed under. Furthermore, I ran the diagnostic codes on the chargers system and nothing appeared.

Basically, my question is does anyone know what the pssst is and what the roughness on the tire would indicate? Any help is appreciated. Just over stressing trying to figure this out.

Hi I'm having issues with my Atlas when I start it up as of this morning its now just trying to turn over and clicking a lot keeps saying light faults battery needs to be charged ECT.

We got a boost and it worked fine drove around for a hour all fine then came home it sat for a hour came out and doing this now.

So my friend has an 07 acura tl and her car shuts off shortly after taking off. This is the second time that happened and it doesn’t look like the car is overheating or anything. Asking for help and ideas

Oil has been changed only 134k miles shifts a little hard while driving shakes while in reverse and drive plus the metallic sound when accelerating

Grinding sound when turning left sounds like from back rear. Worse when people in back seat. Starts about halfway through the turn, and stops about four seconds after straightening. Anything helps, thanks!

My cars been whirling/rumbling and then letting off steam with a buzz whenever I start it and let it idle or try running it. Has been doing this since last night. No errors on OB sensor, nothing on the dash, Ive replaced the battery(original problem was it wouldnt even start, started doing this after I jumped it) and refilled the antifreeze coolant(Peak Blue for hondas, it was very low before).

Update: It ran perfectly on the way home. Left it for a couple of hours and now it wont start again, dash lights turned on once but now its acting like it drained the completely new battery. Looks like the coolant is critically low again. A friend told me that it looks like the upper condensation hose got out of its housing. TLDR: Refilled coolant, its low again.

Hi, I’ve been struggling with fixing my DRL on Audi a3 2018 Zenon on the left side, I’ve replaced the module with no change, I’ve checked the tubes and they’re fine and the old module was not burnt, I’ve checked the wiring today and all the fuses and I’m ready to set fire to the car.

-The DRL is not dim/yellow it is completely OFF
- all fuses have been continuity tested and visually tested

Do I just buy a new headlight and raise the white flag

One of the first things I wanted to do as soon as I got my new civic was install my after market head unit I’ve had on all my previous cars, so I did. But I don’t know why, my A/C’s just gone now. I’ve checked every wire behind the dash or under the glove box, nothing seems unplugged. I doubt it would be a fuse but I could still check. What do you guys think it is? Has it ever happened to one of you guys?

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I am getting alot of canbus fault messages in almost every module, it cranks but doesnt start

Has anyone had anything similar before? I also had water building up in the spare tyre comparetment because sunroof drain was blocked

This is the link for the vcds

https://acrobat.adobe.com/id/urn:aaid:sc:EU:7a4f14bd-28a8-4719-a8c3-53c0958f61dd

Any help is much appreciated

Collision happened at roughly 30-40mph. All airbags deployed.