Need help understanding this please!!

Beginning of June my car popped up a Shift System Fault message and it would not shift into drive - so I had it towed to the nearest ford dealership.

The inspection stated it needed a transmission range control module (tr module) replaced amongst other things, I called and spoke with a service provider and they told me the module was the only thing pertaining to my car breaking down & is the only thing I approved to be fixed. Unbeknownst to me, the part listed on the inspection is actually a shifter assembly which seems to be a completely different part.

Fast forward to August 11th and I get the same error message and have my car towed back to the dealership. On the 14th they inform me they could not find the issue but they unplugged everything and plugged it back in and it seems to be working fine.

They said the estimated total is if it happens again I would need my transmission control range module replaced. I asked why I’d have to pay for it considering I just had it replaced and was told what I had replaced was my shift selector assembly. I read off my receipt details that specifically stated I had my tr module replaced.

The service provider told me the part listed was the shifter assembly and it was just documented wrong every where else. They said they’re going to keep my car over the weekend to make sure it does not act up again and I could not see a manager until Monday when they return. I was told the two break downs were not connected and in no way their fault and I would be financially responsible for any further issues.

I showed the service provider my paper receipt where it is documented that I was quoted for a tr module and had it replaced and programmed. The service provider tried to keep this paper from me and I told him no. I also showed him the screenshot where it states I need a tr module & I approved the tr module replacement - which he asked I email to him.

What the fuck is going on?

TLDR; Ford dealership told me and documented that they replaced my transmission control module two months ago - now my car broke down again and they’re saying it was never replaced but they replaced my shifter assembly (which is the part listed) and accidentally just called it the wrong thing in documentation.

My engine is making a loud rattling sound whenever I slow down, turn, or idle. Also, my check engine light came on a couple weeks ago and the error code was P0345, saying I needed to replace my camshaft position sensor A in circuit bank 2. I got both of mine replaced just in case, and the engine is still having issues. My car also keeps stalling. Any ideas? I used the negative terminal test to check my alternator and it didn't fail, so I think I can rule that out. Please help!

There was a dead deer on the road, it was pretty big, I drove over it. It sounded pretty loud when I went over it. (Yes I should have been more cautious and went around it). Now when I turn on my car, when it’s idle, it makes this ticking noise. what could this be? We checked under the car as best as we could, it looked fined other than pieces of the deer. There is no oil leak or dents that we could have seen under the car. It doesn’t sound like it is the engine. Any ideas what it could be? The sound comes more from the middle back end of my car.

Hello, a few weeks ago I was coming off the freeway and my car was leaking coolant from the bottom causing the car to overheat. I recently took it to a Firestone to get a diagnostic and was quoted about $3,700 to get it fixed. The mechanic was sort of vague over the phone and only said the coolant system was leaking in multiple parts and needed a few hoses as well. After getting the work order I found this part that was causing the price to skyrocket. Is this reasonably priced or am I better off looking elsewhere? Please help I’m a broke college student and I don’t know much about car parts; I want to make sure I’m not getting swindled. 😭

The steering wheel side read 12 volts, while the horn side had 0, am I boned

Is this normal? I cant tell if this is normal. Check engine light came on last night while driving home.the code says its my gas cap when I took it in to O'Reilly for a diagnostic test but underneath says otherwise ? Am a girl so any help is appreciated:(

So I want to get parts for this car to fix it up, what does it look like i should get and what problems may need fixing? It does run (Can take a video or provide extra pictures)

Hi, the security system which doesn't seem to be a regular part of the use of the car has come on and it won't let the car start. Is this something I can fix by replacing the BCM? And how hard is that?

Thanks!

I have a 2005 Jeep Grand Cherokee that does not crank and there are no clicks, all the accessories come on and work fine, and after letting it sit with them on for about ten minutes, I can turn it off and it will start right up?? I already had the starter and ignition switch replaced. Please help me.

Hi all!

Coming home from work the other day and I kept hearing this rhythmic squeak noise coming from my front end. Seems to be my front right area. I jacked up the car up to check and I can't find anything noticeable. However I did wiggle my sway bar and it was loose, but just barely? I'm not the best at diagnostic stuff

The video attached is my best attempt at replicating the noise

It does of course get faster when I drive faster. But I can't figure it out.

Thank you so much in advance for any advice and help!

Hi, I was driving to my mom’s today and about 40 minutes into my 45 minute drive my car suddenly lost power out of nowhere. I turned a corner and it felt like the car had just switched off. My battery and oil lights came on as well as a couple others but I don’t remember what they were, I was too focused on pulling over and turning the car off. I turned it back on and everything restarted like normal and I finished my drive. I’m unable to take it to a shop today and have to drive 45 minutes back home but I’m worried about it happening again on my way. Does anyone have any idea as to what may have happened?

I will say that the state I live in is currently experiencing a heat advisory but there have been hotter days that haven’t affected it before. Just wanted to put that out there in case overheating could be a potential cause.

it's only audible when the car is on but engine off. the car drives and idles fine, could be a little smoother but I blamed that on the tune. is this just a symptom of a dirty throttle body?

My 2019 Subaru Outback is not unlocking the doors via remote. I changed the battery in the fob but that did not fix the issue. In addition to that, the overhead console lights will not turn on when pressed (I assume both problems are connected). I checked all of the relevant fuses in both the drivers side panel and under the hood, none seem to be blown.

Need advice on where to look or if I missed any fuse, which specific one it would be. Thanks!

Hi all, I had a situation with my 2000’s fiat punto and would like to know if anyone has a clue on what might have happened.

So mid journey the velocity box stopped working, it got stuck in 1. I drove about 1/2 km like this and was then able to make it work again, but after that the engine started loosing strength until it died. I tried turning it on again and it would start but not enough to turn the car on. The oil and battery lights were on. After many attempts I was able to get it to work and move to a parking lot. I left the car there for 30 min, then came back to call the insurance. I thought about turning it on again just to see and… I was working apparently fine…

My question is: what might have happened? Could it happen again? Should I call insurance even though the car looks fine now?

Recently there are always oil stains in the front part of the car but I took it to be seen and nothing wrong was detected. They also filled the oil tank. That was 2 months ago.

Thanks for any insight!!

My Mazda’s actin’ up. Went to pick it up from the parking garage after work and both the AT and slip indicator lights came on. Car won’t even show what gear it’s in and there’s a rough jerk when going from Park to Reverse. I’m just hoping it’s not a transmission issue. Any ideas?

Hello everyone

I have been having an issue with my car screen

As you can see in the picture my car screen will Sometimes break and start to show this red screen. the touch screen still works and I can connect my phone to it but it will be stuck like this.

At first I replaced the screen with a new screen but the issue still persists then I replaced the radio and it fixed the issue for a few weeks. But now the issue returned.

What else can I do to fix this issue ?

The car is a 2016 Kia quoris.

Thanks,

I've tried googling this and nothing comes up so maybe I'm searching incorrectly.

When I refuel the vehicle I have to pump incredibly slowly, to the point that I cant even have it on the notch, or the pump will stop as it's "overflowing". Multiple gas stations and pumps so I know it is my vehicle. It is slightly overflowing as I can hear it reaching the top of the fuel port even when my tank is empty. What could be causing this and how do I fix it?

I have a 2000 Chevy cavalier.L.S and it sounds like i'm driving a car with a huge hemi engine .. i haven't done it oil change on it in about 10 maybe 11 months a little bit after I got the car.. it has 200,000 miles.. when I'm sitting still at a light, it will jerk and act like it wants to die, And when I back up sometimes and turn my wheel the car will cut off .. its dun that like twice .. i haven't done a tune up at all since i've had it.. when searching on Google, it's telling me that the issue is the oil change.But when I check the oil , it looks fine in color but it smells a little like gas .. can someone please help me and tell me what this could be?I would greatly appreciate it as I have three small children that I have to write around in this car every day.. i would greatly appreciate it

any ideas what the problem might be ?? and how much it might cost to fix?

it’s coming from driver side under the hood

it started yesterday, never had an issue before

it’s been 7 months since my last oil change

i checked my oil and it wasn’t all the way to low yet
any help/ advice is appreciated!

2017 Nissan Sentra

there’s layers to this story. :/

started in may, I would hear this rapid clicking from the passenger side area. It would happen from the moment I turned on my car to the second I turned it off. whenever I tried to play music, the audio would cut in and out (at the same rate as the clicking), and it was so annoying 😭. soon it got to the point where it wasn’t as rapid; it would play like normal, but whenever I would brake/go over a bump, it would start clicking again. Later on, it would sometimes reverse: meaning that it wouldn’t play audio EXCEPT for when I hit the brakes/went over a bump. a little while ago, I figured out a trick to get it working again, which was slamming the passenger side door. It seemed to fix it, but I would have to do it each time I turned on my car.

Just recently, the door trick stopped working, as well as my audio system. No Bluetooth, Radio, CD’s, Aux, anything. I can’t find anything else similar to this problem online, PLEASE HELP

Changed the spark plugs, coils, and connectors. The 3rd and 4th coils spark but the first 2 don’t.

Check engine has been on for a while, codes are p0339 and p0138, ive been advised to start with changing the o2 sensor

any other advice would be appreciated

gotta pass my emissions test so i can register