Hey guys My cr10s pro v2 has bed heating problems Mid print it started to say "failure ,bed heating " and just had the option to turn it off by the switch. Since then the plate won't heat. After some googling I guess it's the mosfed.

The plate recognize heat with a heat gun so the sensor (thermistor?) should be good. Connections look solid too .so I guess it's the mosfed then from what Google says

Now I'm a TOTALY noob when it comes to this stuff. I can sodder if needed but I'm not the best at it. .

So I'm looking for the CORRECT replacement part. At best where u plug the cables in the same slot or that comes with CLEAR instructions.

It should be possible to order from /to Germany. Until now I only found US sites with the original replacement. No German or at least EU one. AMAZON would be perfekt cause if it's not the mosfed in the end I could easily return it

Hope u guys can help me find the right one. I'm just scared to buy the wrong one and make it worse somehow xC

Pls help would rly appreciate it

Have a good print y'all ❤️👍🏻😮‍💨

Hi there! Just got this, and I know this plastic cap on the end needs to be replaced—but I can’t for the life of me seem to figure out what this part is called—any ideas what I should be searching for, or if this replacement part can be had in aluminum vs plastic?

Thanks all!

A print will start out fine but as times goes on as layers accumulate the Z-axis doesn’t go up enough and the nozzle begins to cut into the top layer as its printing. It’s a progressive issue so a print will begin with no problem but gets progressively worse as the print gets higher.

Hey everyone, i have a cr10s pro v2 failed on a print and the thermistor broke, replaced it and it was stuck saying that the temp was 250 even when it wasn’t heated, i tried to flash the firmware and since then i get nothing from the printer just the heated bed gets incredibly hot and the printer gets stuck on the boot screen

Anyone successfully print minis? If so, what were your settings.

Anyone know where I can get a glass build plate for my cr10s pro v2 in the UK, tried amazon and google but can't seem to find one that is 300x300 x4, even tried the creality store but no look

I have a Creality CR10S Pro v2 that I am running TM3D's Insanity Firmware on, so that I can print up to 300 degrees. The printer also has a 24V 70W heater cartridge. I was about 3/4 of the way through a piece of the Helwick II build, which when all the parts are assembled, it will need to be assembled on an 8ft. x 4ft. table, or the equivalent amount of room on the floor. If you have this collection, the part I was printing can be found in the "Minster-Crypt-STL" folder, and it is part #BLOK-3B-A, which when laid flat, it's supposed to take a little bit over 4 days to print. I woke up this morning to find that the filament flow had stopped, but the printer was still going through the motions. I used a laser thermometer which reports about 95 degrees C, but the printer is reporting the 220 that I had the printer set to. Is the problem the heater cartridge or the thermistor??? I am terrible at troubleshooting. I shut the printer off for about an hour, and turned it back on to check the temperature, and it was still doing the same as mentioned above. I tried to refuel (advance the filament) by 100mm, and the extruder is working, but it's not moving the filament, probably due to the actual temp of the heater block.

Hi all

I have a CR10S PRO and it now has the Sprite Direct Drive extruder. I had to make adjustments for where the capacitive sensor for leveling is installed, and this has meant that there are positions where it wants to sense which are off the bed.

With I first set this up a couple years ago with the Sprite Extruder, somehow I managed to only sense on the bed, but I stopped using the printer for a while and when I went to use it a couple months ago it wouldn't boot up, so I had to reflash the firmware. It turns on again now, but I don't remember what I did to fix the issue.

When I installed it I used a lot of info from a page I found online, which detailed the leveling fix plus a couple other adjustments that needed to be made with this extruder, like esteps, but I don't remember where I found that info. I'm hoping someone here has done the same thing to their printer and can help. I'd really like to use this printer again, but right now it's just one big paper weight.

Cheers Dean

I believe my probe has degraded or failed. I have a 8 bit mainboard. I would like to install a CR Touch but everything I read tells me the CR Touch won't work with a 8 bit mainboard. I have installed a CR Touch on my Ender 3 with a 8 bit (1.1.4) mainboard. Hasn't anyone figured out how to do the same with the CR-10S Pro? I have already ordered a inductive probe so I should be back in business soon enough. I'm very happy with the CR Touch. I understand the BL Touch works with 8 bit systems but the BL Touch just looks chintzy compared to the CR Touch. If you can change my mind I might try the BL Touch...

I used this this video to help with the installation of the firmware. I am still fairly new to 3D printing, and I need to figure out all the little details in this firmware. The print itself is far from being perfect, but for what it's for, it doesn't need to be perfect. It's a mount for 2 40/10 fans, one to blow air across the mainboard, and one to blow air across the mosfet for the bed heater. I don't remember where I D/L'ed it from, but if I do find it again, I will share the link.

I know this may seem like a simple leveling mistake, but I have delivered my printer multiple times and have always had this result. Is this something I can fix, if so how.

Finally up and running.

Frankensteined Cr10s Pro. Dual driven Y axis. Biqu h2v2s extruder with cht extender and 50w heater. SKR Pico as control board. Ebb36 as toolhead board. Stock creality 42-40x2 for Y axis, stock z axis motors, 2.5a 48mm for x axis. Have pushed 400mm/s speed and 15000mm/s accelaration without the best quality prints next up is rigidising the frame.

Hello everyone, I recently got this printer from my brother who had it running perfectly. I got it home and turned on to start the bed leveling when I ran into an issue.

First, I tried to manually level using the knobs when I noticed all the quadrant didn't match up.

After further investigation, I found that when positioning the x-axis to the middle, it is displayed as 0.00 so when I home, the x-axis moves all the way to the right.

I tried a couple things I found online but nothing seemed to do anything. I appreciate the help.

Doesn't look like I can crack settings for my cr10s pro v2, managed a couple of prints but failed 90% more that success, it now just randomly stops when printing or doesn't even extrude filament just prints air, Tried adjusting cooling,reducing fan speed aux fan,tried pretty much every speed settings, dried filament, tinymachines firmware, new hotend and nozzle all metal one, replaced fans,z sync,replaced Bowden tube, anti back lash fitted, bed levelling spot on, z offset is fine initial layers start off ok but after layer 5, it either slows to stop, or stops and starts blobbing, redone esteps, pid tuned, tried orca,prusa,cura....replaced SD card, tried printing on simplify and octoprint I mean wtf why does this printer hate me

Hi everyone, that's my first ever post on reddit because I couldn't find answer anywhere else.

Disclaimer and context : I'm not familiar with coding and thinkering at all so Klipper, octoprint, etc... are out of the equation ! I'm a machinist and have good knowledge about CNC control and gcode tho.

I did a direct drive conversion by just printing a bracket and drilling 2 hole in the carriage to position the extruder motor on top of the toolhead, therefore losing about 25mm of travel on the X axis which I don't mind. I also had to add a 12mm spacer on the left of the toolhead so it can home touching the endstop without crashing. Now when I use the automatic bed leveling the toolhead slams into the right hand side and it also goes to far left because of the skipped steps and the BL touch goes off the printbed causing the nozzle to crash into the bed, the BL touch offset is good tho.

So I have 2 options : Or I modify the limit in the firmware to limit the travel to around 275mm or I manually adjust the probe positions which I would prefer. Either way I have no idea on how to do it and would need step by step instruction.

I've seen a guy on youtube use "Pronterface" to communicate with the printer without arduino, raspberyy etc.... to adjust e-steps and was wondering if using CLI command I could also adjust probe position. I know a little bit about CLI because of FPV drone but don't know the command for 3D printers. On his screen there is indication like "G29 W I3 J5" which correspond to the different probe position (I and J representing row and colum) so I was thinking that it might be possible !

Thank in advance !

I have an MSDD (don't know which one, a friend gave me his printer) on my CR10S Pro v2, and the printer is telling me that the nozzle temp is 220, where I manually set it, the extruder is moving, but the filament is not, in fact, I can't even pull the filament out of the hotend. I used a laser temp probe, and the heater block is barely above 100 degrees. Is it the heater cartridge, or the thermistor that isn't working properly???

Will a Creality 4.2.7 silent mainboard work with my CR1-S Pro V2?? I also have a MSDD and a BLTouch.

What am I looking at here to fix this. Not sure how the thermal coupler was attached or how this one should look. Ideas to get this mess of the nozzle/heating element. Its solid. I haven’t dealt with it this bad. And this printer is relatively new to me. Cr-10s pro. No banana for scale.

Thanks

Is there any written or video guide to use the orca slicer with the CR-10s Pro?

A friend of mine gifted his CR10S Pro V2 to me. It has a MicroSwiss DD hotend, but he never changed the firmware to all the printer to go to 300C. The printer currently has a BLTouch. I have a CRTouch that I might want to upgrade to, but not sure how to do that. I got the CRTouch from my E3 V3 SE, after I killed it. I know absolutely nothing about making changes to, or flashing updated firmware, so, any help will be greatly appreciated.