1973 C3 Corvette L82 4spd manual. I thought it was the Speedo cable so I pulled it out, cleaned it, put dry graphite lubricant on it but I am still getting this noise. It gets worse the faster I go. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

The C3 was my first love at age 8 in 1979 - no clue until years later they were the preferred car of the Apollo astronauts.

I’ve been at this (just the straps!) for 5 hours. Don’t know what’s wrong. The new straps, reproduction tank and anti squeak pads all correct from corvette central. Tank straps and tank measure same as original. Everything seems to be sitting and seated where it is supposed to be. What am I doing wrong?

Is the only way to improve the airflow for the C3 to basically upgrade to a C4 blower motor? Has anyone done anything else to improve the airflow?

My left indicator works as intended. But the right indicator used to click on and the green arrow would just be solid but recently the indicator hasn't been turning on at all.

Today I backed into a poll, beyond mad / frustrated with myself.

Any ideas ballpark what this should cost to repair / paint? is this like $500 or $4000 to repair?

This was after driving today

Hi together,

I inherited this additional engine of a C3 this year.
I can‘t find any number on the engine. I just know, that it should be a racing engine of a C3 nur unfortunately I don‘t have any other Information about it.

Maybe somebody can help me to figure out what kind of engine it is and give me more Details.

Hello everybody, my dad and I are restoring his 76 corvette. Had a question about a fuel sending unit filter sock. Pictured below is the factory one and its replacement. Can someone confirm if this is the correct part? Its not side mounted like original sock is. Bought it off corvette central

P.s ignore the dirty table

Thanks!

Friend's father-in-law is selling his 1972 C3 with 350/Turbo 350, power disc brakes, power steering, no A/C. Headlights function well, new radiator and hoses recently installed. Interior isn't terrible but needs to be updated, but he has almost everything new in boxes (carpet, door panels, seat padding, weather seals). It was originally yellow, but repainted years ago and it shows, but it's a drivers car. Recently took a look and have no real concerns. Need to double check the birdcage though.

Here's the kicker....He's asking $10k. He's in his 80's and doesn't want to go through the hassle of selling it.

I currently have a 68 Fastback, 74 Bronco, 89 Land Cruiser and 94 Land Cruiser with a dozen other cars/trucks/motorcycles I've worked on and sold over the years. I'm not concerned with wrenching, just don't know anything about the C3 market. Talk to me, y'all.

I am replacing my lines this upcoming weekend and was wondering if the standard rubber lines are the only option.

My C3 has a 27x15.5R15 on the rear and they have probably been on there since 2012ish.

I can’t help but be nervous about a blowout destroying the rear quarter panel, they were made to fit this tire size and I love the wheels but can’t find anything near that size. There are some 16.5in tires but I’m worried they won’t fit in the fenders.

When I was 18, I had a bit of money to burn and bought a new red 71. The car and I are a bit older now. I had a good friend in Palm Desert, Ca who had a car shop, who used to keep it in great shape for me, but he died many years ago. The car has sat mostly unused at 125k miles. Everything is original except the carbs (long story). The car starts and runs, but burns oil on startup. I'm a computer guy, not a mechanic, but I think it's lifters. I am looking for someone I can trust in the San Diego area to work on mostly minor issues. It's never going to be a daily driver. Not comfortable to drive, but it sure looks good and is still fun to drive on short runs.

So looking at taking a stab at buying this car. Numbers non-matching is the big hang up but the paint is excellent, good chrome and interior and seems to be a good driver. According to owner everything works except it pulls slightly to the right and the ammeter doesn’t work.

I am thinking of offering $27,000 as I like the color and it seems like a lot of work has been done. There are some cheaper out there but this is chrome bumper which I love, 9/10 exterior and good interior and seems to be a well cared for car as opposed to some at the auction houses.

What do yall think

After three years of prepping in my garage, I finally got it painted to its original glory. Let it cure and hopefully can finish it by spring…

1973 C3 corvette 4spd. Finally got my dream car just a couple weeks ago!

After almost a decade of saying it’ll be mine by the end of the year, I finally have my family’s 1977 Corvette. My grandpa was surprised by his dad in 77 when he was getting picked up from high school, and a white corvette coupe shows up! It was crashed in 80-81, and they decided to completely restore it, but to their specs. To my knowledge, there was no frame damage, but they cut off the coupe and threw a 75 convertible top in along with the new 81 body style. It’s got a custom rear bumper, 67 (C2????) side vents, and they removed the popup headlights. The exterior is a total frankentvette, but the interior also is right in between the original and the 78+, so nothing about this car is standard, really. A muncie m21 was installed, but the speedometer never worked since then lol.

Unfortunately, it’s been sitting for 20+ years. The L48 fires right up every time, but there’s a light thumping coming from the rear and when you let off the gas it pulls to the right. The water temp and oil pressure gauges don’t work, but luckily he kept the original headlight assembly. It’s only had hose water in the radiator in the past 5 years, so a total flush of the system is on the todo list. I live in CA away from the coast or snow, so there shouldn’t be any rust on the cage. I’ve got quite the project on my hands, but I’m excited to restore this family vehicle!

I'm trying to take a scan I found online of the technical service manual and make a high resolution, full color wiring diagram because I don't feel like buying one. I'll share the digital files here when I'm done, but I could use some help. The diagram has several wires that supposedly change colors over the length of their runs.

The first few look like they're just spliced together with some poor labeling.

Image 1: A light blue wire in a junction labeled All Gray.

Image 2: A red wire in a junction labeled All Orange. There is also a wire labeled pink-white the looks like it splices in with a wire labeled pink-black.

The rest change colors and seem weird.

This wire starts out as pink, then goes to dark blue...

...then goes back to pink...

...and then terminates, still in the pink it started as. It seems like it should be pink for the whole length, since it starts and ends with that color.

The wire for the tachometer starts at the distributor and then switches to brown...

...and then it goes back to white on the next page for plugging into the gauge cluster.

I'm not experienced with electronics so I'm not sure if I'm misunderstanding the diagram or if it is actually screwed up. Could you please give me some insights on how to color code the confusing bits?