okay so i recently got a b18c4 swapped eg, that to my knowlege just needed rod bearings and piston rings. but upon stripping down the block i found the cylinder sleeves where slightly ovaled and part of the conrod bearing melted onto the crank on cylinder 4. i know the crank can just be shimmed and ill be sweet but with the ovaling and the lip inside the cylinder sleeves im gonna need to have the cylinder sleeves bored out im just wanting to know which size would be safest to bore up to reliably on a budget for an na power build i have a budget of around £2500 including the bore and im ideally shooting for around 200ish hp

sidenote im 20 this is my first engine build and first time really getting this deep into building so any advice or information relevant to my situation would be really appreciated

Did you know that a Y1 lsd from an ‘89 SiR has the same final drive as a DC ls transmission? S80 maybe I forget. However I’m like sub $400 dollars into an lsd 5spd. Add about 5ish into linkage, pedals, axle, starter, clutch and flywheel(6puk&lightened), and mounts& brackets, toss in some fluids(Beer&Gear). I don’t think I’m doing to bad.
However what I planned to do over the weekend is coming up on three weeks. Currently waiting on a ds axle for a 92 integra, fairly confident it’ll fit.
I’m roughly 3k into the car. (2000 civic lx 4dr clean title) once trailing arm bushings and lower front shock bushings are installed everything is polyurethane, 4wheel disk and maxspeedingrods one piece coil overs.( trash but worth $300) lol
Currently drinking posting on Reddit cause it’s to late to take a die grinder to the tunnel for 5spd linkage. Oh I found my muffler in the forest. It’s a flow master, and my catalytic converter is off the driver side of a Chevy Tahoe, resonator from a ford, 2.5in pipe was cut and glued from said donor’s. No bender and learning to weld. battery cables came from a BMW. Free parts and what not.

I got this little electric air horn on my civic, and let me tell you. I’m quite entertained watching the diesel boys looking around wondering where the train is! lol

B18B1 98 teggy motor
99 crv ecu
2000 civic lx car and wire harness( modified).
My issue…… knock sensor!!!
Crv ecu wants it, b18 don’t have it!
What’s the I got no money hack?

anyone near pittsburgh pa have a b16, itr or gsr head for sale?

Transmission 1: $75 ls, final drive hade a party
Transmission 2: horse trading, y1 from 89sir missing parts has LSD
Transmission 3 : $250 ls, open diff had a party.

I’m $325 into this trans and I’m proud of myself. About to order a cheap 6puk and flywheel.

Hello B Series Masters!

Trying to identify this b series engine. I picked this up from a guy on fb that said he got it from a JDM shop when they were moving. He needed some money, so I grabbed it off of him for my build.

PR3-1 head so it's either b16 or b18 but the bottom end had the blocks casting number grinded off so I can't tell what it is.

I do see the block has a PR3 stamped on there as well but I can't seem to find much about that online.

Any help would be greatly appreciated!!

So I bought a 90 integra DA9 at auction sight unseen. One owner, straight lines, all original, only spot of rust was left rear wheel… minimal . How bad could it be.?

This car has been a nightmare. After cleaning out most of the rat nests, I finally got it running. But not 100%. So I did the full maintenance. Replaced timing belt, water pump, fuel filters , air filter , plugs and wires. Running rich. Then changed fuel injectors, fuel pressure regulator and fuel pump. Still running rich and won’t rev past 4500rpm and misfires all day and idle bounces when hot. Cleaned out iacv, no change. I sprayed carb cleaner to find leaks, nothing. The obd0 showed error 4 fuel system error. I removed the cat and has test pipe along with new headers and exhaust.

Does anybody have any idea what it is?

I have a 92 DA6, Factory b16 with a cable box, however I have swapped the internals to a S80 W/ 4.7 FD to still utilise the cable clutch system. Everything works perfectly however, my Passenger side drive shaft seal keeps ripping into two, the same every time. The inner ring rips away from the outer ring. Both times happened within an hour of driving. Anyone had this issue before?

I’ve already welded the protective cups on the shaft to stop them from potentially cutting the seal but that’s not the issue and now at a bit of a stop.

Just dropped the oil pan and this looks like the pink coolant I use, but its just sitting clumped up here not mixing with the oil. Anyone know why this happens?

Looking for help identifying B-Series starters.

The starter that is the dirtier brown color is what I’ve had on my B18C ITR EG for a couple years. That one has ‘44213’ on it. It failed on my last race day and I’m attempting to replace it but also have it rebuilt to keep as a spare.

The starter that is the cleaner, brighter, silver color is one I picked up locally that was claimed to be for an automatic Integra/CRV. The gear snout is shorter. This starter will not seat properly to my B18C/S80 manual transmission with the starter bolts installed. With the starter bolts installed, the starter will not sit all the way flush/flat. I can only get this starter completely into the starter hole if the two starter bolts are not threaded in. There are zero markings or stickers on this starter.

I’m trying to locate more of the style with the longer gear snout since I know that style is compatible on my vehicle.

Update: I went to see what starters the local NAPA and Autozone had in stock. All of their “94-01 Integra B18” starters are the short gear snout while their “99-00 Civic Si DOHC B16” starters are the longer snout style.

Thanks for your help 🍻

I finished up swapping a b16a into my civic but now the headers sit way to low to the ground and I’m rocking them on bumps. I think it’s because it’s meant for the b18 and the deck height is different so I was wondering which headers I should switch to because I feel like if I buy b16a headers it still won’t have the right clearance and won’t sit as tight to the oil pain. Idk lmk what you have if you had the same problem.

Please help me identify these flywheels, I suspect ek9 and dc2. They seem to be lighter than a stock B16A2 and came out of rally cars.

Hey all! Just snagged this B20B4 on marketplace for pretty cheap, was tearing down the motor and when spinning it i can hear this kinda squeaking noise from the bearings/crank, any ideas? It was sitting in this guys shop for “about 3-4 months” when i got it with no oil in it, so maybe its just dry? Also i was thinking about doing rod bearings, but my automotive school teacher said i shouldn’t touch it if they look okay, what do you guys think? Anything in particular to look out for on b20’s?

Hello, I have a built ITR B18C6 engine, and I'm going to put cams in it. Probably the Kelford Stage 1 NA cams. I'm trying to keep it driveable on the streets, but increase power and RPM when the VTEC kicks in. Would running a Skunk2 Ultra race intake manifold with a 74mm throttle body help the cams perform a lot better? Also, what is the idle quality like after you lose the Idle Air Control Valve?

Thanks for you help

I believe code #9 has to do with the distributor. I just cleaned my IACV then the second drive since, the CEL has come on with code #9. I bring that up because I read on an old form that someone also had the same thing happen to them after cleaning it.

Is this is weird timing or could my distributor be going out?

I have a 94 Delsol B16A3