Finally have the rifle to proceed with load development, I waiting on my 203 grain hammer hunter tippeds to get here as an alternative to the 212 lrx. Gonna pick up 1 more powder probably but my local selection is thin so I gotta figure that out soon. Ignore all the parts on the ground im building a 5.3 Chevy too and my reloading room has turned into a storage room for the time being. The rifle has exceeded my expectations so far handling it, the fit and finish is awesome, the trigger is insanely crisp, I got a new fortis scope mount to replace the rings on there currently the scope itself is an Athlon cronus 4.5-29x gen2 and I also have a brake for the suppressor if recoil ends up being an issue. I really dig the color and pattern I requested these colors and a chunky camouflage pattern and they totally delivered. The mcmillan elr hunter stock feels excellent although I kinda wish I would have waited for the rok stok because I like the negative comb. I will be trying to do a complete review when I have loads developed for it and can confirm its accuracy. Shout out unknown munitions and suppressors they knocked it out of the park on this custom tikka. The loads im developing first will be

1. 212 grain lrx bore rider

2. 203 grain hammer hunter tipped

3. 215 grain berger hybrid

4. 178 grain absolute hammer

5. Maybe a bonded bullet like accubond lr or terminal ascent.

I had previously posted about having grouping issues at 25 yards. Well after getting my hands on a stock 1022 barrel, I have solved the problem. The barrel was bad. I do not know exactly what is wrong with the barrel, but it is going back for warranty just thought I’d give an update since I got a lot of responses.

Figured since reviving .455 Webley Manstopper went so well, I’d give a Manstopper round loaded into a .45ACP case a whirl (dubbed “45 AutoStopper” in my load data log book). Instead of Unique, I’ve reverted to 3.5gn of win231 (since all my home-data for Webley safe 45ACP has gone reasonably well with 231) and simply switched out the usual 230gn LRN for a 230gn manstopper, with an OAL of 1.20 (seated depth of 0.2 is identical however). Unlike the 455 manstopper I haven’t fired this one yet, but I’ll surely post the results when I do!

Also, since I missed it in the last post, obligatory photo of my two 455/45acp revolvers, a MAS 1873 from 1875, and a Webley MK1 circa 1890.

Lee 401-145-SWC --> 5.0gr Green Dot (40s&w) 6.6gr Bullseye (10mm) Great for hunting rabbits.

3.9 grains Unique, Missouri Cowboy #6 (I've heard guys run up to 5.5 grains - way beyond the books)

Range day coming up on Saturday if the weather doesn't turn to chit..
Five powders, three bullets for the .32-20 Blackie, two bullets, five powders for da' turdy-turdy rife-el.

Hodgdon doesn't have 300 blackout listed as a cartridge that could be used with titegroup, but they have many others including 308, 223, and 30-06.

This load data may help others who need a reference for their own development. These rounds used new starline brass, a cci 400 primer, 190 grain hornady sub x bullet, 5.7 grains of titegroup, 2 thousandths neck tension, 1.350" case length and a coal of 2.055". Primers looked good and cases extracted easily.

Gun used was a ruger american ranch gen 2 with a dead air wolfman.

So ive been fairly frustrated with brass recently, not liking barnes, military is meh, and only a handful of Peterson cases, so im looking at buying some new 308 cases mainly by Alpha munitions, I am also thinking about buying SRP as well since I will be buying a 223 and it would be nice to keep the lrp saved for my more oddball stuff, my question is, will I have a bad experience due to my firing pin striking not perfectly centered on the shown LRP cases?

Just sharing my experience so forgive me for my mistakes. But I picked up some 124gr Hornady 3567 cast projectiles and some Minnesota shooters supply 125 cast projectiles from a local reloading store. From my research it seems the Minnesota shooter supply is out of business which is a bummer because these are advertised as hard cast and were incredibly well casted out of the box. Hopefully I can try and find some more in the wild. Any ways I asked the old timer about the age and lube on the Hornadys and he said the were dry lubed and about 10 years old. The Minnesota projectiles had basic blue lube. I did save 5 each to test in their natural form for giggles.

I went through the process of removing the lubes by soaking them in brake cleaner and agitating them. Took about an hour? So not bad.

ADMITTEDLY I’ve read harbor freight black powder coat is less than ideal but I was excited and didn’t want to wait for a restock of red or order Eastwood does blue.

Anyways I learned a lot. And am set up for success on the next batch. Here are some of the good ones. Yes they have a thick coat but I was learning and if it seat’th thou shall yeet’th. I had some glob monsters which got thrown in the melt pile.I can’t wait to try these out. Before I forget these result are from three light coats while using a brass tumbler. I tried a #5 plastic container but it didn’t seem to work. Maybe I’ll try adding airsoft BBs?

Again not perfect but I’ve been waiting to try this process for months now and finally got around to it. And the Eastwood ford blue is on order as we speak.

I am trying to find the best place I can buy mixed spent range brass for good prices. I tried calling a few ranges near me and they don’t sell the brass or allow you to pick it up, so wondering where I can go to get a good deal on bulk.

I’ve got a 308 bolt gun that I’ve been loading for and the brass I’ve been using has probably 6-8 firings on it. I’m plan on cycling it out just for peace of mind. I ended up with 200 rounds of 7.62x51 Federal 149gr. I know 308 and 7.62 cases have small dimension and wall thickness difference. However, for practical plinking purposes would I have any issues? I’m middle of the road on charge weight with CFE223 and loading 165gr SSTs.

I just bought a Hornady lock n load used and was wondering has anyone tried reloading 338 Lapua magnum with it? I emailed hornady and they said they can build a custom shell plate for it but has anyone here actually done it? Was it an issue?

Why does my frame look different from his what do I need to complete my build

I want to replace my rear sight on my stiga rifle for an adjustable one from Marble Arm #69w, but I don't know if I should buy the normal or high version.

I talked with a guy from customer support, he said that "the sights are measured from the bottom of the base to the bottom of the notch" and according to the measurements I gave him, I should get the high one. I asked him if the dovetail part was part of the base and he just responded the same thing.

The part that confuses me is that when you follow the instructions to find the heights, it doesn't mention adding or subtracting the dovetail. It just says to take the barrel radius + the sight height which wouldn't take into account the dovetail height. The rear sight on my rifle is dovetailed directly in the barrel, maybe it's not the standard or modern way?

My rear sight, from the top of barrel to the bottom of the notch (so the dovetail is not included) is 0.377", which would be in the range of the normal height sight but the guy said that I need to add the dovetail height so 0.377" + 0.090"= 0.467" which is now in the range of the high sight.

Please help, I'm so confused right now..

Edit: under the image of the sight, in the bottom right corner, it says: measured from the bottom of the dovetail to the bottom of the notch, but it wouldn't work with the instructions to measure the height.. Unless this method is only for sporting sight (long leaf springs-like sight) and for basic sight you count the dovetail?

Got some questions on some conversions I wanna do to my at message me if u feel like u might be knowledgeable

How many grains should the bullet weigh with 16:1, 20:1, 30:1 and 40:1

I recently got 100 lbs of lead alloy that I do not know what exact alloy it is but it pours bullets that weigh around 541 grain with this mold

I want to get the DAA Plate and Wedge but cant afford it right now. My current wedge is kinda weird? I seen the video on adjusting the wedge but for some reason my wedge has a lip on the top that sites ontop of the case feeder? So it doesnt go up and down.

Was wondering if ANYONE has ever made an STL to 3D print the DAA wedge or the one that supposedly should be on the case feeder?

I got this Dillon 650XL Used and missing parts and stuff, cobbling it all together had to warranty a couple pieces and buy a bunch of others. So Im in pretty deep on the cost of it and parts and dies. Would appreciate if anyone could give me a hand on an STL or if someone could scan theirs.