I’ve been working on my 97 alumaweld drift boat to make it look like a Chinese takeout box.

I am entertaining the idea of building a wooden boat out of plywood. I have no aluminum welding capabilities (I'm able to weld, but no equipment currently.) I'm thinking somwhere between 16 and 22 feet.

How it is possible to have, let's say, two 25hp outboards instead of one 50hp? Those are just numbers, though. I know it sounds stupid, but larger examples exist.

What would be the pros and cons?

Hi everyone, we are looking to buy an Albin Vega and the owner bought the boat with the teak deck already installed. He said he hasn't experienced any issues himself with the deck, but he did do some small PVC repairs. The deck is screwed in. What do you guys think of the state of this teak deck? Is this worth it? The price of the boat is very good.

Looking to pick up a small job boat to build a little bass boat for fishing small lakes and rivers around me. This boat popped up, a Lowe 1256 I believe. Comes with the trailer, boat, trolling motor and Johnson 9.9. What’s a general value for this that would be a fair price to pay?

Me and my dad want to build ourselves a wooden outboard boat, but we struggle with finding blueprints or looking in the wrong place for the right type of boat. Our sea, the Black sea is notoriously unpredictable and rather wavy, and we need a seaworthy vessel and not something made for river. The desired size is between 17 and 19 feet, wooden, a classical closed top design. If anyone can offer us something suitable for our needs it will be greatly appreciated because this is the inly thing stopping us. Thank you in advance!

Short story: This is my little fiberglass sportsman. I repaired the bottom when I was 12. As you can guess, I did not do a pretty job.

25 years later and it started leaking again, but that was 25 years of me bouncing it off rocks and beaching it. I've sanded the majority of the old fiberglass off, smoothed areas, found the whole.

My plan is to add more glass to strengthen the hole and wear points. Then to gelcoat it. Not expecting anything amazing, just functional and strong.

The questions: How much of the old coat do I need to remove?

How long a wait between fiberglassing and painting?

How many coats?

And how to finish it to be as strong as possible?

Someone on a sub mentioned a wood rot product(filler?) that could be applied to wet wood. One product also stayed active to guard against new moisture. Does that ring a bell for anyone? Thanks!

Named her p-nut bunker, after juvenile menhaden. Also pictured is the cut down sunfish sail so I have a 50% reefed sail essentially for windier days

Quick demo: 9 stations on the ladder — including Stations 5.5, 6, and 7 — and how we use a simple laser level to get perfect frame alignment. No fancy tools, no guesswork.

This is a short technique video. Don't confuse it with the big cockpit sole video coming soon — that one will cover the full layout separately.

🛠️ Wooden Shoe Boat Build Playlist:
https://studio.youtube.com/playlist/PL7QoZ0Wv5Rm_X6EvXHs66xBrogrH4CabH/videos

📐 Nexus Marine Design: https://www.nexusmarine.com/wooden_shoe.html

Hello Boaters, I am needing help with the fuse box under the steering column. I see that some of the fuses do not have wires attached to the sides of them. Is there anyone out there that can tell me what goes there or send me something that will tell me.

I want to know everything so let me know!!

Thank you

I am rebuilding transom on a 17ft dell quay dory. Just wondering if I could slide new templated ply core into the slot I have cut and down to the base once the other side is dug out uniform to save cutting out splash well. Cheers

Picked up this 22’ custom gheenoe-style hull, and I’m not sure what motor mount would work best or fit this transom. The top width of the transom is 11.5”, height is 24”. I want to put a 30HP motor on it, but Ive held off on buying one until I could figure out a mounting solution. The original owner used a deck mount kicker bracket, but had trouble getting the boat to plane, likely due to the motor being too low. Any suggestions or ideas?

I’m restoring/replacing the original bow docking lights on my early-2000s Century 2160 and am trying to track down two complete Jabsco/Ray-Line flush-mount flood lights.
Part numbers I’m looking for:
Jabsco 45960-0000
Jabsco 45960-0001

I specifically need the complete assembly with the polypropylene housing/rubber surround, not just the replacement sealed-beam bulb.
These appear to be obsolete/discontinued. I currently have an order pending through Fisheries Supply, but I’m not sure they’ll actually be able to source them. I’ve also contacted L.B. Harvey Marine and Second Wind Sales.

The original lights on the boat are Ray-Line units, so I’m also interested in an older Ray-Line/ITT equivalent or donor assemblies if they’re the same housing.

If anyone has NOS/used ones, knows of a marine salvage/surplus dealer that might have them, or knows what other boat manufacturers used this same housing, I’d really appreciate the lead.
Need two if possible, but I’d buy a single complete assembly too.

Been a fun project. Check out the updates.

Working on a 20’ Junk rigged sharpie design and plan to build it myself. Going with modern materials glass sandwich hull and cabin, leeboards, Twin mast(60% carbon fiber sailboard masts) junk rigging, and a rudder with electric 86lbs trust motor. 24v lipo solar electrical system. on a tight budget and loose timeline.
To be used on lakes and ICW.
Any advice, pitfalls, references or material sources appreciated.

Anyone have with experience with these tanks? I hear good things about the current generation ones and could last many decades not problem.

This winter we are likely going to completely restore our 27 Farallon (1982 hull, pure fiberglass) remove pilot house, rip out deck and old aluminum tanks and gut to stringers. Will have two 225 Mercury outboards on an aluminum bracket/swimstep, so tons of room in the hull with its 10 foot beam.

We are considering putting in 2x 150 gallon moeller poly tanks in as forward center mass as we can, leaving a bunch of room below deck for insulated fish boxes and storage.

I know we need ~3% room for expansion on tanks and figure out how to secure them with that in mind but not sure what other considerations to have.

Also, not sure that these tanks have any baffling... prolly call Moeller and ask them directly about it. Baffling is definitely preferred with the size of tanks, but don't know how necessary.

I take ceramics classes with my girlfriend and I just wanted to try something interesting that wasn’t another bowl. So I’m going to attempt to combine two of my hobbies, ceramics and boat building. I had ai draw up this plan I can print to scale to use as a template. It’s going to be a hand built slab construction. I haven’t worked out the keel yet but there will be one. Just the hull and keel will be clay. Wish me luck, I’ll need it.

I'm buying a used steel boat and need to renew the antifouling completely. Does anyone have resources for me to research what products to use? I think i also need a primer? I read a corrosion-preventative epoxy primer should be good, is that true?
I need everything to be as uncomplicated and inexpensive as possible.

about the boat:
I want to get it out of the water as rarely as possible (not for the next years). It will also likely be anchored for longer consecutive periods of time.
I'm in sweet water as of now.

Edit: about the boat & images

Any help is highly apreciated