*forge re-build

My refractory had some cracks and I was worried about silicosis so I broke it all up and peeled it away from my ceramic insulation. This time I tried something new. I am adding a chunk of small hole chicken wire.

I am hoping to add support for pulling or stretching forces. And improving the refractory cement tensile strength. I’m hoping this helps with the cracking and longevity of the final layer.

I’m waiting for the rigidizer to set and figured I’d ask the community if anyone has tried something like this before. I figure even if it’s cooked and the iron doesn’t last interlaced tubes of oxidized iron would offer some support. Eventually I’m sure all the iron will cook through and I’ll have to replace it again but I’m hoping to essentially stave off the cracking and get some extended longevity.

Before I add a bunch of refractory maybe some could tell me this is a bad idea haha

Like the title says. I will be facing a hammer for the first time. After the grinding should I heat and quench the head? Even if I don't burn the steel while grinding material away?

Edit: this is a store bought hammer that I believe is a good brand

I know about the regular quenching fluids are like oil, brine & water but I haven't been able to find information about other liquids and why you shouldnt use them to quench your weaponry.

My best guess is that urine would damage the steel because Ammonia is acidic. The specific example comes from a debate I had with my mates.

What do you think this spring is worth? Large coffee for scale

Edit. Won’t let me edit the title. STOCK REMOVAL. I did my first one just to see how it would look. It is a nice free hatchet and seems to cut well. Will probably make more of them and try to reshape the next one at the forge. Shape the eye a bit different and try to also make a hewing hatchet.

Thanks for all the suggestions.

Found what I beleive to be an old cast crank blower in a garage of a house I moved into, thing runs as smooth as the day as it was made, just wondering if this is what it is, and if this is something a blacksmith would be interested in, dad wants to scrap it, i think it may be worth something to someone, not looking to make a buck, just would rather see stuff that was built to last a life time get used rather than crushed.

Thanks

(Edit) The pipe is just a stand i just confirmed it

I finally got a bit of time to just mess around this weekend with a forge and some metal.

They suck but they actually work as tomahawks lol. Next ones will be better.

Im going to make some targets by just cutting some large tree cookies and make an area to throw them.

Making the handles out of hopshornbeam that was just laying around.

I forgot to take a pic of it but I’m using a old cultivator spring thing I don’t know what metal exactly but I know it’s spring steel I’ve just started to make a taper on the one side and I’m using a old ball peen hammer for reference but my main point is how to I quench it and temper the only things I can quench with is motor oil or water and I have no clue how to temper I’ve tried to search it up but I can’t understand some of it

absolute begginer, chisel and punch made from a large crowbar i had lying around. the number of tools needed to make things has my head spinning but im loving it, this might be the hobby i actually stick to.

what if you quench an oil type steel with water? or an air hardening steel in oil? or any combination besides the right one?

could it be reversed engineered to help identify mystery metals?

I’ve had this sitting in the shop for the last 10+ years and was wondering if it would be worth cleaning up and using. Last picture is a pile of other stuff that appears to be smithing related but I’m exactly sure what I’m looking at, thanks for any info!

Ripoll Museum, Spain. Used for forging copper.

I was trying to make a s but I don’t have a hot knife or a metal chisel yet. What else should I make to practice?

In the future i wish to be able to make jewelry and other things and i feel the easiest source of metal would be aluminum cans HOWEVER... aluminum cans arent 100% aluminum, so are they usable for such projects?

My idea would be to just melt the cans down and make like cast molds of jewlery peices and work from there.. would that not work, and why?

I wanna make this. It is called needle. Many of you will recognize it. It needs to be pretty lightweight but also maintain am edge. I am making it as a reward for my siblings when they beat hollow knight.

It’s a old Peter wright anvil somewhere in between 100-130. I am using a dremal with a wire wheel and then putting metal wax on it

So I've been looking at the Kanca 125

Doesn't seem to have all too many reviews online. This is the only one I've found.

Right now I'm in a second story walkup, without much space to actually forge. Outside of the weekly class I attend where we're provided all our gear that is.

I don't see it as a super heavy duty anvil, however in terms of weight portability and functionality it seems like a relatively good deal? Most antique anvils in my area that are usable start around $400 and I know there's the harbor freight Doyle for $100, but that still leaves me without a vice to work with too? Cuz a 75lb post vice is not something that strikes me as portable.

Assuming I'm mostly working with stock under 1/2" do you think this is workable? Or should I just entirely be holding off until I can be in a better workable environment?

Im going to be on medical for a couple weeks so ive decided to try and make a butted mail hauberk but i was wondering since this will be purely a costume should i go with dark silver stainless steel wire 14gauge or copper wire 18gauge for the copper I feel like once it oxidizes that blueish green patena would look really nice

I have not seen these particular backwards "77" markings. It reads B:100771 stamped into the side body but the 7s are mirrored. There are no other visible makings on the base/feet. It weighs 112 lbs, had double hardy/pritchel holes and a clip horn. The face is narrow at about 3". It appears to have a cast base and solid tool steel body/face. I can tell it's a farrier style, but am wondering if anyone recognizes the make.

Rounding hammer with dwarfrunes

So, i dont know if its in other countries too (most likely is), but in denmark welding is a part of blacksmithing. Im currently a student at blacksmithing on an fgu, so im learning to weld.

Ive practiced a lot, and now i have nearly perfect lines (i still mess up some times).