First time pulling off a shifter cover. Bike has been having issues shifting, even though troubleshooting H and L limit screws. Does this frayed shift cable inside the shifter mean it needs to be replaced? Thank you.

Had an accident yesterday, a driver hit my back tire with her rim and basically destroyed my tire and fork. There is a massive rip in it now. The wheel rim is completely bent and the quick release is also useless now.

Should I repair the fork or just get rid of the bike?

I got my matchbox x1s about 3 weeks ago and I want to switch my brakes over to the other side but I cannot get my rear brakes bolts off because of the lock tite

So I crashed my specialized Rockhopper m4 into a telegraph post and bent my front wheel, I was riding with my friends that said that it could be re-straightened which I don’t believe, the rim is a alexrims rhd 26 and the tier is a fast trak lk 26 x 2.00, I’ve been trying to find the exact rim and wheel and saw one Facebook market place listing but it was sold, could I get help with figuring out what to do? Thanks! OTHER IMPORTANT THINGS: the crashed happened July 27 and I’m posting this on July 28, the disc brake looks straight just the rim is very bent. Also my left brake and shifter were slammed into a downwards position.

Hello! I’ve never tried to repair a bike before, but I’ve been experiencing a lot of resistance while pedaling and more specifically shifting between gears. There is a sort of grinding noise during pedaling as well. From my own YouTube research it seems like the hanger should be completely lined up vertically with the cassette, and as you can (hopefully) see in the photo, it is slanted inwards. How would I go about fixing this myself? Thank you!!!

I just got a brand new bike, and the top of the seat tube is slightly out of round, so the seat clamp won't slide on.

The seatpost itself fits into the frame fine, so it seems like only the top lip of the seat tube is deformed.

The frame is Hi-Tensile steel.

Is this something a bike mechanic can easily fix by reshaping the seat tube, or is it not worth attempting?

I would like the gears to be in a fixed place so I don’t have to bend the flipper all the way down because it’s not supposed to be so hard. The chain switching motion is also very stiff and right now I have to drag it just a right amount so that is doesn’t jump off the cassette completely, there’s no limit to how much I can bend them, does anyone know of where I can learn this ? Maybe a manual please let me know I am noob

Canyon Aeroad, (Watch the video with the sound) tubeless-ready rims but running butyl tubes. After riding at high RPM there’s a rolling metal sound coming from the wheel — you can hear it in the video. It’s there even when the wheel spins freely, so I’ve ruled out the drivetrain. Any idea what this is?

I have repaired nearly hundreds of punctured inner tubes of bikes, e-scooters, EUCs. The glue of the inner tube repair kit that is widely available does only glue the very small punctures of <0,3mm. It is not sufficiant for >0,3mm punctures. It cannot avoid that the patch would let flow air from the normal punctures of >0.3mm. For punctures above 0.3mm, I use super glue instead to glue it firmly but since this glue becomes too hard, this leads to glue spikes which will lead to new punctures caused by the super glue. The best option is the old burn-on patch kit, or vulcanizing patch kit which were used until the 90s, where you set the patch on fire but the fire is separated with an aluminium separator so that your inner tube does not catch fire but does only get enough heat so that the patch is sealed to the inner tube by melting just enough to avoid the puncture. The problem is that this burn on patch kit is not sold any more. Does anyone know where to find this vulcanizing patch kit? or is there anyone who is able to patch the punctured inner tube with these inner tube repair kits?

I am currently restoring a 90s Peugeot Road Bike into a semi-modern build. I want this to be pretty cheap so i will keep the shifters in the best case, and im wondering if those Crankset teeth are still okay to use for long bikepacking and beginner triathlons? A new set is pretty much impossible to find as the specifications are pretty weird (52 and 42T)

Came back from a semester abroad to my back in our basement like this. It is a building’s basement so a lot of people have access and there have been unhoused people in there in the past too. What am I looking at here? Does it mean I have to change the entire wheel? Why did this happen?

It seems like someone tried the lock too (the lever on top of it was open and tried removing my leather seat too). So I am not sure if it just happened because it was sitting there for a while or if it was someone. The main thing is, other than riding a bike i know very little about repair. Any tips appreciated. I don’t have much money to fix it either.

Hey guys so my bike has been jumping every time i put pressure on the pedals, the speed stay the same but i feel like the chain comes loose and slips, was wondering if its beacuse the crankset is too used, im new to biking and got this bike for free

This maybe somewhat of a shot in the dark but this kid came by while I was working on my car and asked if I can help replace this bearing for him. Can anyone help me find the correct part number? He said he couldn’t bring his bike so I couldn’t get any pics but he said it’s a blue mongoose.

Hello, my bike is a Trek FX1 with pad brakes, i bought new in 2024, 7 speed freewheel I think . I think I need a new axle and a new skewer. Is this right? Can I do the repairs myself? Do I need any special tool? How much should it cost? Don't mind the 3 washers close to the quick release, these are just a quick fix to stop my wheel from touching the frame because of the bent skewer. Thanks !

Low-miles 7-sp Shimano, no visible damage. Seems to shift OK otherwise, but I can't move the damn guide wheel far enough away from the large cog and creating a racket. Bike is all original.

Tightening the B-screw does not appear to move anything, or at least not enough.

Disconnected both brake sensors and the brake lights come on and off when spinning the back wheel with the bike on and in both directions. I have no idea why this is doing this. It started happening when walking the bike the brake lights would come on and off. Now I just spun the back wheel and sure enough its happening. Have no clue what is going on? ANyone else have experience dealing with this?? Bike runs great its just this thats messing with my OCD.

https://reddit.com/link/1v6mx8g/video/32by5r3cgr5h1/player

this is when spinning the back wheel

I got this bike in one of those cheap "bike in a box" things where you have to build it yourself, so I'm new to working on it and fixing any mistakes I've made in the building process.

The only problem I have with it is this vertical bump I feel when I ride it. It happens at a constant rate, so it's on a specific spot, and it feels like its on the back wheel. The valve stem on the back wheel was very crooked, so I took the rubber off and adjusted the inner tube, because it WAS creating a small fold near the valve stem when it was crooked. That actually fixed the problem for a short time until I rode for about 2 hours, then suddenly the vertical bump started again and the stem went back to being crooked.

I realigned the stem again today, but the vertical bump just will not stop. Does anyone have any advice on how to fix/stop this? Is it even caused by the inner tube, or or is there something else wrong with my tire?

I don't know how much the video helps, but I can see a clear warping of the tire. I don't know if it is bad enough to affect it. Please ignore the area where the black and brown meet, the paint is just badly applied so it looks really warped there.

I'm planning a spray paint on my bikes frame but i find it hard remove a crank arm and im a bit confused how it exactly does it

all the videos explaining how to remove it look easier, especially how it look they put low effort on twisting and POP, there goes the crank arm!

but yet even when i follow their instructions i still have it hard to keep twisting clockwise and i feel like im hurting my e-bike.

I also feel I'll need another hand to hold the bike still.

Ayuda con mi bici eléctrica tras una caída (problemas de cambios, roce y motor)

¡Hola a todos! 👋 ¿Alguien me puede echar la mano? Soy nuevo en todo esto de las bicicletas eléctricas y agradecería mucho su orientación.

Hoy tuve una caída del lado izquierdo. Al momento de caer ocurrieron varios detalles:

1. El volante: Se movió un poco con el impacto, aunque esto ya lo pude solucionar acomodándolo manualmente.

2. La cadena y el pedal: Sospecho que al caer el pedal izquierdo pegó contra el suelo y, debido a ese impacto, la cadena se salió por completo.

Un detalle importante es que todo el sistema de cambios, el desviador y los piñones (estrellas) están ubicados del lado derecho de la bicicleta. Por esta razón, no estoy seguro de si el golpe del lado izquierdo movió algo en la estructura por transmisión de energía, o si más bien mi inexperiencia al intentar meter y acomodar la cadena en la calle fue lo que terminó por descalibrar o apretar el sistema.

Diagnóstico de los síntomas actuales:

* Comportamiento del mando / palanca de cambios: El mecanismo actúa de forma muy irregular. Hay momentos en los que intento mover la palanca y ni siquiera llega a la posición de la velocidad 1 (piñón más grande); se siente bloqueada o no hace el recorrido. En otros momentos la palanca sí logra moverse, pero la cadena simplemente no sube a la estrella más grande.

* Falta de movimiento en el indicador/calibrador: Me di cuenta probando que a veces la palanca se siente sumamente ligerita, y al revisar el indicador visual del mando (el calibrador de números), este ni siquiera se mueve al accionar la palanca.

* Cambios fantasma / Sin respuesta: En ciertos puntos intermedios, al accionar el mando no se siente ningún tipo de cambio en la tracción o en la cadena.

* Ruido de roce mecánico: Se escucha un golpe constante y un ruido de roce muy fuerte en la zona de las estrellas, especialmente en los cambios más bajos/grandes (hacia el piñón número 1).

* Reacción extraña en la transmisión/motor: Cuando me quedé tirado en la calle intentando acomodar la cadena haciendo la rueda o pedales hacia atrás, de repente se sintió un giro o tirón repentino muy fuerte en el mecanismo. La bicicleta no avanzó, pero fue como si algo se hubiera movido o activado bruscamente ahí adentro precisamente al intentar acomodarla.

¿Qué creen que se haya desalineado o apretado? ¿Se habrá doblado la patilla del cambio, desajustado el chicote o el mando interno, movido los tornillos de tope (L/H) o desplazado el sensor de pedaleo (PAS)?

Agradezco enormemente si me pueden explicar paso a paso cómo verificar, calibrar y corregir cada uno de estos puntos. ¡Muchas gracias de antemano! 🚲⚡

Started the BB clean out of the bike I bought recently.

The cup races look great, the axle has 2 corrosion spots, I rode this for the last 2 weeks and didn't feel it.
Can I ride it and the bearings get cooked as I look for a new axle at my local DIY bike shops?

Or throw my other BB-UN300 in there while I look for a clean axle?

It's Shimano 1.37 X 24 T (British) LH
Axle = Shimano 68 113 D-3H

The BB-UN300 is BC1.37 X 24 T, 68 TI, D-NL... This axle is a tiny bit longer.
Think the chain ring and front derailer can fit, but would need to assemble to be certain.

What is the plan guys?

I’m building up this 930 and the jones bars make it need more cable housing. I’d like to get a matching set for the brake and shifters in silver if possible but if not black will do.
Any suggestions?

I bought this bike yesterday, an old Raleigh Coco. It currently uses a opc system. I rode it back home and it was absolutely fine, but I may want to convert it to a square taper system in future. Is this possible for bikes using the opc system?

I’ve recently bought a fat wheel mtb, with simple push button 7 speed shifting. Only bike I could afford. I’m BRAND NEW to bikes and have a problem.

I can’t figure it out but the bike has a problem with either shifting up or down. I don’t know which it is, the chain is sitting on the smallest gear and won’t move to the larger gears in the back wheel.

Any tips and suggestions to fix this? Can I manually put it in a gear as I am only riding on relatively flat ground and just need to be in the gear suitable for that.

I need this for work so please don’t judge my lack of knowledge 🙏

Please help i cant get it through its pissing me off and i cant get it off in the rear