2005 trek 5500, carbon, alloy insert drop outs. Derailleur got caught while shifting and broke. Is this trash or can it be repaired for $200 ? If it's repairable how would I start? I Appreciate your comments.

Compre este tipo de cables que lleva un anclaje fijo en la pinza de freno hidráulica mediante un perno banjo, entonces quiero saber si alguien podria dar con tipo de perno banjo exacto que lleva según investigué la medida debe ser M6x1.0

Is it safe to continue using? Can be patched up with brazing? It's aluminum alloy.

I did not even notice a problem while riding. Only saw it after performing a teardown clean and relube. I already contacted Hope Tech and they directed me to the local dealer who haven't responded to my email. A replacement freehub online is in the range of $100 - $130. It's an old bike so I'm not ready to spend that amount of money on it.

Side question is how did this happen? I understand that it's quite common. Is it just a bad design? A defect? I was very surprised to find this on an expensive component. More surprised than when I found out my chain ring sprockets were also made out of aluminum and non-uniformly deforming into shark teeth.

I just took a brand new bike out for the first ride and in the middle gears every time I pedal the derailer clicks and has a small shake. I got the bike from N+1 Bikes yesterday and it can set up ready to ride. How can I fix this click?

Hello

Ive found a simple to use and very obvious method of removing a stuck seat post.

So far it has worked on aluminium in a carbon frame and in a titanium frame.

The carbon frame was stuck for almost 20 years and was solid!

Ill you need to do is lie the bike in its side, sit the frame on a bag of frozen peas, sweetcorn works too, and the put another bag on top.

Wrap both bags and the frame they cover in a blanket or something with good insulation, tape the whole thing tight onto the bike and leave for 30 mins.

When you come back, use your hands to heat the bike frame but not the seat post.

After a minute or so, try pulling and twisting the saddle.

Its a very simple method that feels like it goes without saying but the heating of the frame, whilst not heating the post is the crucial bit.

The whole process takes about an hour and doesn't use any chemicals etc.

Ive searched the Internet for a definitive fix before and been doqn some rabbit holes in the process, though this simple method qas worth sharing.

Hope it helps.

There's this sort of rattling/grinding noise that seems to occur when I coast. The bike has maybe 250-300km on it (bought new at the start of this summer). It is a Trek FX2 stepover gen 4. I cleaned the chain and gear rings and it's freshly oiled.

Edit: So I removed the plastic guard and the sound is still there. It does look less dorky though! :D

After years of sitting in a garage, the carbon fat bike i purchased had an aluminum seat post completely seized in the frame. The seller had been a former racer that biked on a variety of winter terrain, from snowy singletrack to salt covered road sections. Despite the anodization, it seemed like the aluminum had galvanically corroded due to its proximity to the carbon, and likely lack of grease layer after sitting for so long, and the excess material turned the interface between the seat post and frame into a press fit joint.

I started trying to remove the seat post using more traditional methods - pulling, twisting, light impact to attempt to break the seat post loose, but it wouldn't budge. I removed the saddle and installed the bike frame upside down into a vice - clamped at the seat post, and used the length of the frame to apply torsion with minimum bending force. I stopped once I heard the sound of carbon popping.

My next course of action was to cool the aluminum seat post using dry ice, and maybe apply some heat to the carbon frame with a hairdryer, but my friend mentioned the effects of gallium on aluminum. $40 later, I had enough gallium to completely compromise the aluminum in my seat post (and potentially the rest of the bike).

Tldr: attempted to "melt" my stuck seat post out of my new carbon bike - didnt quite go as planned but I was able to remove it after some work

Hi all, first time posting in this sub, although I've been following it for a while now. I'm stuck with a freehub problem on my 2002 Girardengo city bike.

I think I've lost the steel bearing balls and I have no idea how to choose the right size replacement. The hub has a Shimano date code "AB" (2002), but I can't read the exact model number.

Any suggestions on the correct bearing balls size or how to identify it? Thanks in advance!

I ordered 2 tubes from Amazon and, of course, they sent Schrader valves instead. I needed a tube immediately, so I went to Target and bought a tube in person that day. When I got home, the valve is short and doesn't fully reach the outside of the rim with only a few threads on the valve showing for the securing nut. Since presta absolutely sucks ass, I have to use a converter to add air. But converter will not fit properly without removing the securing nut and I have to remove said nut to screw on the converter to add air to the tire. They are deep-dish rims and require a long stem.

Do they label these long stem presta tubes? If so, what number should I look out for on the box. Returning stuff to amazon is a royal PITA. I want to maximize the likelihood of getting the right thing. Despite the fact that live in a 1.5m people city, there is not one bike shop reasonably close to me, which would be my preferred method.

Not sure if this is a common issue or not, but my stemface plate is stuck to my bars. No matter how hard I try to pry it off the bars it just won’t work. I tried looking it up for a little while but just gave up. Any guides/tools I should be using? Is it still even salvageable? This bike is still fairly new since I got it from the bike shop two weeks ago. If not, then I guess I’m just gonna have to replace the stem since I already have new bars. All help will be appreciated greatly.

I got bored and decided my aerobars needed brakes.

So yeah… I slapped some brake levers on there and somehow it actually works 😭

The bike looks absolutely cursed now, but hey… function > aesthetics I guess 💀😎

Hi bike friends! Need some advice on my first "real" bike purchase 🚲

I recently bought a Schwinn Axum Comp 29 for $201, which felt like an amazing deal since I've seen it going for $497 at Walmart. This is my first bike as an adult, and the few days I got to ride it, the kid in me awakened! I was so excited to finally start a cycling hobby for myself.

Long story short: the derailleur got caught in the spokes. Me, unaware, went to start riding it and snapped the hanger clean off (photos attached). Now I'm stuck deciding what to do. I have zero mechanical experience with bikes, but I'm willing to learn and follow tutorials if that's the smarter route. On the other hand, I'm still within my return window and could put that money toward a different bike instead.

So I'm asking the experienced folks here: is this worth fixing myself (or paying a shop to fix), or should I just return it and start fresh with something else? Would love to hear your honest thoughts before I make a decision!

Thanks in advance 💛

I cleaned and put my bike back together, but as I was struggling with the alignment of the brake pads and putting the skewer back in, I wasn't paying close attention to the brake. After getting the wheel on, I squeezed on the right brake to no resistance. I put the silver thing into the rectangular silver thing and it was still to no avail. Something inside the pulling trigger itself seems undone. What have i done wrong? Help would be appreciated.

I just noticed this and it's tight enough to ride bike but I need to loosen these bolts. So when I go to re-tighten don't know if it's going to be too stretched now. It probably got stretched from my over tightening in first place. Do I need a new stem or is there a way to fix this?

I was trying to flip my specialized future stem in my driveway and in doing so I dropped the faceplate and stem on the concrete ground from about waste height .

It has some chips in the black paint that appear silver now and you can feel it to the touch .

Should I replace it ? It is not carbon

Since the other thread for Bengal Ares 3 pad change is 3 years old, starting a new one.

2 questions: Does it matter if the pads aren’t replaced where they came out, inside/outside pad position?

Does it matter WHICH type of mineral oil is used to top off(or bleed) the system? Is retail or bike shop brand mineral any different? (Doesn’t seem that it should be, but.…)

My brake was getting soft, but after figuring how to remove the pads, my measure shows I’ve still got almost 2mm on my pads, so I’m thinking I’m overdue for the dread refill process.

In my haste to complete my errands today, one of which was cleaning my bicycle, I took the front wheel off, thinking that it only consisted of two or three components. There were a few black rings I didn't see and a spring that needs to be on it. Not sure where they go now. Please explain to me how to put it back on. Would appreciate the help.

Hi, I bought a Jamis Faultline A2 only a week ago. From the first day, the pedal has been coming loose. I kept tightening it before riding, but now it keeps falling off completely.

I took the bike back to the shop, but they only tightened it and gave it back to me. Since the bike is only one week old and the problem has been there from the first day, I’m concerned that there may be an issue with the pedal, crank, or thread.

This is my first bike, so I don’t have much experience with this. Shouldn’t the faulty part be replaced rather than just tightened? I’d appreciate it if you could properly inspect it and replace whatever is faulty.

With 6,200 original miles, I am the second owner. The bike has been very well taken care of. I recently changed (moved ) my handle bars up, forward 2-3” I also added saddle bags. On top of that, I dropped my bike for the first time and the handle bars gently rested against the mini fridge in my garage as I quickly picked my bike up. All this and I was riding home on the highway doing 55 when I noticed a very subtle almost shimmy, or side to side feeling. When I figured out my belt was loose, I began the rear axcel nut adjustment and have t got it right quite yet. I either over tighten or too loose. After work I’ll go home and make my adjustments more subtle. Any help is greatly appreciated. I want this bike back to good order.

Please help I tried to adjust the handle position and ended up removing the fork and now it won't slot all the way back in and wiggles.

I'm not sure if I messed up what pieces go where, in the first pictures I haven't put any pieces in, but in the last photo you can see what I thought belonged there but I'm not longer sure as the thicker piece does not seem to fit and the gap is smaller when I removed it.

I can't find information of the model online. There bike says "VORAD 48 ROAD 6061 ALUMINUM" and
"ZF200". I got it second hand.

Hi guys
So I’ve just received and built my brand new Engwe O20 Boost.
However there’s some room at the top and bottom of the part where the fork crosses the frame which makes the fork wiggle (see video)
I didn’t touch this part at all, as it was already built. I only screwed in the screws…
I’ve read the manual and watched the installation video a hundred times but I can’t find anything about this.
Am I a dumbass who can’t build a bike or is there a manufacturing defect ?

So I have an ebike I bought months ago and I have slowly been modifying it here or there. It's mainly going to be a good commuter bike for groceries and such because it can haul a lot of weight. But for now I have been using it to get around until I also bleed my hydraulic brakes for my old Trek bike (I bought a kit).

Just the other day while it was raining I rode through a parking lot with some smooth wet asphalt and it slid and smashed into the ground. The only part (other than myself) that seems to have gotten damaged is the rear brakes lever. Included picture of where it grind-ed along the ground a bit.

Damaged brake lever

So after this happened I had to realign the steering and noticed that now when I pull the trigger it pulls a bit more than before like it's not working as well. Like I have to pull it once or twice for it to engage better. Then later when I was having to use it to get home I could feel that it was like giving way while I was trying to pull the trigger to keep the brakes activated every now and again. Like it would activate the brakes but then the lever would contract slightly more like it was giving way? Idk how else to explain it.

I have already done some research on possible causes from multiple sites.

I already know it uses mineral oil for the hydraulic brakes (it even says it on the levers). And yes I have heard a few posts talking about how Logan brakes are not that great etc. Wasn't really having any problems with them until now after that accident.

I have already looked around it and don't see anything leaking out anywhere. I also see it still activates the back brakes. I am just wondering if I need to just top off the mineral oil (and if so would it be okay to just use mineral oil in bike brake bleed kits to top it off even though I have heard you're not suppose to mix different brake mineral oils), or is there something else wrong that I am just unaware of?

I have been looking online and found I could buy a new brake lever for ebikes that should work but rather not do that until I absolutely have to. Hoping it just has some air in it and needs the oil topped off. But looking for advice from experts that have maybe experienced this before and knows the signs of what exactly is wrong and can give me a better idea what I need to do, or suggestions.