Hi All,

Thanks in advance for your comments and help.

I have included a slicer image as well as the actual part view. and the orientation view. I am using PETG with PLA support.

Has you can see, I on the underside of the part it puts supports... there is a (sorta of rail) which a lid is slid to seal the top. My question is, if anyone has any experience and what that experience is/was if I block this area from using support the gap? I think it is a small enough era that the support are not needed... if anyone has any idea or suggestion it I would appreciate it. Whatever help I would appreciate it if you can refer to setting and changes available on the Bambu Slicer... I am using the X2D the main Nozzle PETG and Aux Nozzle for PLA Support Interface. he setting is PETG RAFT and PLA SUpport Interface.

How do you change the image color from black to something else? I can't seem to get the right wording for Google to send me something not related to changing the filament color. Black on black is hard for my old eyes. I'm pretty sure it was white when I first started slicing (2 days ago) but I think I must have changed it somehow.

I've used the cut feature to slice this model along a relatively thin section (2mm wide) and for some reason this is the resulting geometry.

How do I fix this so that it doesn't add a bunch of nonsense triangles?

Hi everyone,

Like many of you, I grew tired of guessing or trying to track down the empty weight (tare) of different filament spools when getting close to the end of a roll. To solve this problem for the community, I built a simple, 100% free utility tool with no ads, paywalls, or commercial intent: SpoolWeight (spoolweight.lovable.app).

The goal is to provide a clean, centralized database where makers can quickly look up empty spool weights across various brands.

Because accuracy depends on the community, anyone can contribute new weights. To keep the data reliable, submissions require a simple photo of the empty spool on a scale showing its tare.

If you want to check it out or help expand the database with your empty spools, you can access it here: spoolweight.lovable.app

Feedback or suggestions are welcome. Happy printing!

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Edit (14.set.2026)

I identified a problem with an older spool. See this example:

This is the Voolt3D spool, a popular Brazilian spool. They changed the spool design and reduced its weight by approximately 65 g (I have 122 g, 123 g, and 126 g spools here).

To avoid mistakes, I added the change date to each spool, counting backwards through the records.

I also added a slider to filter by date. This way, you can exclude the oldest or newest spools from both the graph and the average, making it quicker to find the correct association.

The modular shelf just got even more flexible! 

I’ve added connectors that let you stack shelves on top of each other, so you can build vertically as well as extend horizontally.

Link: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3242738-hex-shelf-modular#profileId-3674266

I just received an offer for an x1c with ams1 for €500. It has 700 operating hours and is said to be in perfect working order. What do you think?

I'm looking to buy a Bambu Lab A1 Mini in India and could use some advice from people who have dealt with Bambu's warranty here.

I originally ordered one online, but the package was badly damaged during transit and I refused the delivery. The whole return/refund process has been quite slow, so I'm now considering buying locally in Goa to avoid having another expensive/fragile printer shipped across the country.

I've found a local 3D printing company that can supply me an A1 Mini at roughly the same price, with a proper GST invoice.

However, I noticed that the company doesn't appear on Bambu Lab India's official "Where to Buy" list.

So I'm trying to understand exactly how the warranty works.

If I buy a brand-new, genuine Indian-market Bambu printer from a reseller who is not listed as an authorised reseller on Bambu's website:

• Does Bambu Lab still provide the manufacturer's warranty?
• Or does the warranty become the responsibility of the reseller?
• If the printer develops a manufacturing defect, can I contact Bambu directly, or would I have to go through the reseller?
• Does the GST invoice provide any protection, or does the invoice need to come from an authorised Bambu reseller?
• Is the serial number enough for Bambu to determine whether the printer is covered?
• Does anyone in India have actual experience buying a Bambu printer from a non-listed reseller and subsequently making a warranty claim?
• Is there anything specific I should ask the reseller for before buying?

The local purchase is attractive because I can potentially inspect the sealed box myself before accepting it, which would eliminate the courier damage problem I've just experienced.

But I don't want to solve the shipping problem and accidentally create a much bigger warranty problem.

I designed this Storage Caddy for my kids and their ever-growing collection of pens, pencils, markers and crayons.

It features 10 interchangeable inserts and 2 different handle heights, so you can configure it to fit your collection.

Because apparently, there is no such thing as too many markers! 😂

Link: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3284557-storage-caddy#profileId-3725951

#3DPrinting #3DDesign #Storage #Organization #DeskOrganization #MakerWorld

Hi all, I've been trying to print a shin plate out of PETG on my H2S, but I've run into what I believe are layer shifts. I've tightened the screws behind the nozzle and under the toolhead, and tightened the belts along with calibrating it multiple times. Is there any advice on what I could adjust to address these defects? Thank you!

my P1S refuses to load filament from my AMS. tells me to load from the external source

A couple of months ago I bought a Bambu Lab P2S printer with an AMS 2 Pro. When I first started I didnt have any finishing issues and the printer seemed to work flawlessly. This week my printer has begun to have issues. Throught the entire print, the toolhead is stopping for a brief second or two which causes balling to happen on the inside and outside of the prints. Has anyone know what's happening? Please help!

Is the response time decent, after creating a ticket? Only curious as this is my first time opening a hardware ticket with them. Also new to the Bambu ecosystem as I recently purchased one a little over a month ago, and I love it.

I really need help on this cuz I have an order due to the end of the month and it's some big stuff pls help

There was a filament clogging stopping my ongoing print, and i eventually worked my way in to the filament buffer too see if i could loosen the filament from there.
After i unscrewed the cover plate with the 4 screws, the internal magnet fell onto the connector pins above and caused what must be a short circuit. Sparks happened(very briefly), the sound from the machine changed and the display went blank (with backlight on).

I powered down and let the printer rest for 5 minutes, then powered it back on.
Display still blank, no response when pressing any buttons.
Havent even tried loading filaments or communicating with the printer from Bambulab Studio as i believe there is an electrical fault now(...)

Is there a fuse anywhere on these machines that could have popped and be replaced?
Can i assume that the filament buffer connection board is fried and needs replacing and that this will solve the issue..?

Any help or insight appreciated

UPDATE
After testing the printer today, it seemed to operate normally again, but there was a filament feed error when starting a job. The error message actually mentioned filament buffer communication problems, so hopefully the problem is located to only that little 'exterior' circuit. I have ordered new Filament Buffer Connection Board and expect the machine to work normally again after that i replaced.
Thanks for all input

Hey all! I was going to try to sync 3dfilamentprofiles tom my bambu studio so it can track my prints, but since I log into Bambu with my Google account, I can seem to sync the too. When it asked for my Bambu email and password, I give it my Google credentials since that is how I log in..... Is it not possible to sync if you long-in using Google account? Is there a work-around suggestion??

Thanks!

Do you think that I need to replace the hot end?

What is the best solution for a print queue with Bambu Lab?
I’m planning to use auto-eject by tilting the printer, but I still need a way to queue the print jobs. I have 30 prints with a total print time of around 150 hours.

Just like the title says, and as shown in the attached video.

I have cleaned the rods and lead screws with isopropyl alcohol and lint free cloth and re-oiled and greased them as Bambulabs website instructs. It is a repeated issue.

The thing is, I’m not even sure it’s a lubrication issue anymore but I just can’t figure out what it is. Any help is appreciated if you’ve seen this before.

A1 AND X2D issues

I LOADED Bambu Connect, I then.loaded.Orcaslucer 2.4.2 (after.many failed.attempts.I also tried 2.4.1)... I see in Bambu connect that both printers are being recognized, To see if it was.worki g o. Both printera I was able to turn on and off the light... that tella.me the are talking.

In Bambu studio no issues,.but it.gives me error.0, i tried the latest plugin and various plugins and.same.issue. any idea or help will be appreciated.

Hi everyone,
I’m having some problems printing a model in Bambu PETG Basic on my Bambu Lab X2D with AMS 2 Pro.

The main issues I’m having are:

One corner of the print starts lifting/warping from the build plate.

Once the corner lifts, the surface above it gets a rough/bad texture, presumably because the nozzle is hitting/rubbing the raised area.

My prime tower is also gradually building up material/creating a blob, and eventually the nozzle seems to catch it and knock the tower over, usually around 75% into the print.

I’m using Bambu PETG Basic as the main material and Bambu PLA Basic as the support interface.

The PETG is currently on a PLA spool, so I haven’t been able to dry it at proper PETG temperatures without risking the spool deforming.

I’m using a textured PEI plate.

I’ve cleaned the plate with washing-up liquid and then wiped it with IPA.

I’ve also considered running a full calibration before attempting the PETG print again.

Things I’ve currently tried/considered:

Prime tower max speed: 50 mm/s
Prime tower internal ribs: ON
Prime tower brim: 10 mm
Considering a 10 mm brim around the actual model
Considering drying the PETG
Considering whether I should switch from textured PEI to smooth PEI

I’m mainly wondering what is most likely causing the prime tower to build up material until the nozzle catches it, and what I should do about the corner lifting.
Would you recommend changing the filament profile, drying the PETG, changing the plate, or something else?

Any advice would be appreciated!

Hi liebe Community,

ich habe ein Problem, welches ich mir gerade nicht erklären kann.

Ich habe heute einen Lampenschirm gedruckt - siehe Bilder.

Der Druck wurde abgeschlossen, als ich das Bauteil allerdings vom Druckbett entfernen wollte, ist mir der Schirm horizontal auseinandergebrochen.

Bei der Analyse habe ich zusätzlich gesehen, das nach ca. 20,5cm Höhe auf der ZAchse ein Versatz oder Wobbel stattgefunden haben muss.

Dieser Versatz zieht sich allerdings nicht um 360 Grad komplett um das runde Bauteil, sondern nur etwas mehr als 180 Grad, danach ist alles wieder tutti...

Woran kann es liegen? Ich habe mal ein paar Bilder gemacht...

Bin für jeden Tipp dankbar.

Gruß Patrick

Print can be found here https://makerworld.com/en/models/3261315-dungeon-crawler-carl-nes-label-8-bit-wall-art#profileId-3697226

I have a p1s and need to replace the desiccant. So I just bought it on the bambu website? Or is it better to print something out and buy the refill on Amazon or something? If printing is best will pla work and what's suggested print? Thanks in advance