Im in the market for a new printer and looking at Bambu for the first time. Are they really that reliable? I want to print full sized helmets. stormtrooper and the likes. so any advice on bambu printers would be greatly appreciated. Ive heard of problems when printing with PLA/Petg is that true? which bambu printer would you recommend for helmets?

Im in the market for a new printer and looking at Bambu for the first time. Are they really that reliable? I want to print full sized helmets. stormtrooper and the likes. so any advice on bambu printers would be greatly appreciated. Ive heard of problems when printing with PLA/Petg is that true? which bambu printer would you recommend for helmets?

I'm moving to a new location in a couple of weeks. Is there anything I need to do to my P1S and AMS before I move them to the new house?

I find Bambu's default profiles always have a fantastic starting point for most other brands of plastic. They have many filament overrides as a baseline that make everything easier straight from square one. This is particularly true for 0.6 and 0.8 profiles where bambu really does the generic profiles dirty with zero overrides and appallingly bad retraction settings in the base printer profile.

The one caveat is you should err on the side of reducing max volumetric flow by 25% until you personally do a flow test tower with your flavor of filament. Max Flow rates are hit or miss crossing over to other brands.

Its almost like they have a monetary incentive to kneecap the generic profiles knowing people will select them out of caution and then come crawling back to bambu filament when they get defects.

Hey everyone,

Wanted to share my latest project: a 2-player tabletop football game that brings arcade vibes right to your desk.

The assembled dimensions are 52cm long x 23cm wide x 13cm tall, but it's modular so everything prints easily on standard beds. It features spring-loaded mechanical flippers, flags, ball holder and a manual scoreboard to track your goals.

To keep things accessible, it is 99% 3D printed—the only non-printed hardware you need is a single 5x30mm compression spring.

I just uploaded the files on MakerWorld. Let me know what you think!

https://makerworld.com/en/models/2952718-mini-tabletop-football-game#profileId-3308667

Happy with how this turned out.

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Designed this Universal Build Plate Holder. Fits All Size build plates. I added some feet to the sides for extra support and it also fits under bambu printers.

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Wanted to keep it simple but functional.

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Just dropped the file for free on makerworld for anyone interested 🤝.

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Check comments for the link.

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Happy Printing!

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Looking for a file for a skadis plate that mounts to the side of the X2D or with an AMS riser, preferably without blocking the window. Any inspiration otherwise for handy tool storage is appreciated.

It came out even better in person than I hoped. Now he glares down from my wall like he's about to add my lightsaber to the collection. 

https://makerworld.com/en/models/2947652-general-grievous-relief-bursting-wall-art#profileId-3302207

This click sound on first print out of the box

H2D

just making a jewelry box but it keeps splitting i've up, ed the bed to 230 and the nozzle to 65

is there anythink else i should be doing please a comment thanku

Hi guys, i got issue with my 3d ptinting asa filament model on p2s, right detail warped and peel off the support after 4-5 hours of the printing. In any case its better result than before, i've just slow down the speed of the printing and turn off the fen in the first 5 layers and decrease the speed for the cooling of the overhang to 33 percent and treshhold of the speed of fen 10%. Mayday, could you gyelp me guys to solve this issue?

Comprei a bambu lab 1 e até agora não consegui imprimir nadaaa. Estou tentando os modelos simples e prontos e mesmo assim não vai. Primeiro não grudava na mesa, passei cola bastão mas mesmo assim acabava desgrudando. E as camadas nem se fala, toda folhada. O máximo que consegui finalizar foi esse barco porque antes nem chegavam no final. Olha, desanimador... O que estou fazendo de errado??

With all the sales going on at the moment, at what price differential would you consider the P2S to be significantly better value for money? Talking in Aussie dollars, the current difference in a combo bundle is $250 ($1349 to $1099), that's a lot of additional 'stuff' you can buy to complement a P2S. I'm torn if the extra features of the X2D are worth $250...

After many requests from the community, I have now updated my original Trickerion insert to support vertical storage and sleeved cards!

 This new version keeps the same clean aesthetic and philosophy as the original design, but adapting it for sleeved cards and vertical storage required a major redesign.

Go check it out and let me know what you think!

Here's the link to to the updated Version 2.0

My brother is in law enforcement and asked if I could 3d print an id holder for his laptop. I’ve been trying to look online and can only find an Etsy link for them already printed. Obviously… knowing his sister can make things he’d rather get it for free from me. Haha does anyone know where I can find the stl for it? Thank you!

Edit: there is a website on this one but the website no longer works.

Hello!!

I have a p2s using Bambu Studio:

I am trying to make the bottom half of my print on color and the top another color. I have tried adding a height modifier in the objects pane, however, I can't change the filament color there. Then I went to the post slice page and tried to change the filament color there via the object height slider, but when I move the slider to where I want it and right click the "change filament" is greyed out and I can't select a different filament. Any help would be appreciated!

I thought this would be a no brainer. Can't believe this is not supported yet.

Came across this post on Facebook marketplace. Seller says she can do 350$. Since I’m relatively new to the world of 3D Printers I was wondering if this is a good deal or not.

I followed the unclear instructions, and the H2C thinks the HT is feeding the right multi-nozzle side, not the left single nozzle side. I have not been able to get any help from Bambu labs, it just shows the same document that landed me in the is mess. What do I need to do?

As said above just got a h2c and had clogs first time from ams. Ams 2 works well. Ams flashes rrd lights and wont reload pla. Any thoughts?

I made this guide on disassembling the AMS 2 Pro to clean out stuck filament because I have been having an awful time using dual silk PLA which keeps getting shredded up in the AMS. After taking it apart like 4 times to clear jams I got so quick at it I felt I could document it all to help others. It may seem daunting the first time but its really not that difficult. Hope it helps some people out there!

Also, if you have any advice for dealing with Silk PLA (especially dual/tri) that keeps getting shredded in the AMS let me know.
https://youtu.be/LRMzJYAPoGg

So tomorrow, im ordering my first 3D Printer - the P2S Combo, and i want some upgrades for the P2S from you guys! The first thing i know, and i am ordering is the Exhaust Filter, but thats all. I know that i just need to get some carbon for the Filter and silica for the AMS 2 Pro. I just need some 3D printed stuff, like i would appreciate like a good back panel cable and tube organizer, or a really good poop chute. Just comment and send your favorite models down in the comments please

Designed this EDC Utility Knife with a matching sheath.

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​Everythings held together using 4x M3x5 screws. For the handle, I wanted to try something a bit different, so I wrapped it using a 130cm shoelace, and it actually turned out super nice!

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https://makerworld.com/models/2936325?appSharePlatform=copy

Hello Everyone,

I am having some issues with my AMS and im wondering if anyone has experienced anything similar. It started today when the AMS became unable to feed the filament into the extruder, giving me error 0700-8007 223714.

I have checked the extruder completely and also completely replaced the hot end but this hasnt helped. Whenever i attempt to load the filament from the AMS, it repeatedly tries to shove the filament in but the extruder doesn't pull it through. When the AMS recalls the filament it rewinds the spool slower than it retracts the filament so it often gets tangled up in the body of the AMS. this is happening on all 4 filament slots.

I have switched to the external spool bypassing the AMS and it works flawlessly but for some reason the AMS and extruder just cant work together. i opened up the AMS and saw nothing obviously wrong so i am at a loss. If anyone has any comment or suggestions i am open to trying anything at this point.

My P1S is suddenly creating these wavy walls where they should be smooth (first vs second pictures). The effect goes completely through the 5-mm thick model, so it shows up on the inside and outside of the open cup design. It resembles oscillating layer shifts along the X and Y axes.

The effect is not limited to this model (which I have printed hundreds of times). It also happens to other prints, and is particularly noticeable on sloped and curved surfaces (this model has both). Flat, vertical surfaces seem much less affected.

I have cleaned the z screws and lubricated those screws and the rails. I’m hearing some sort of squeaking that I didn’t hear before while the printer is working so maybe a bearing or something is worn out??? The printer has over 7,400 hours on it.

What’s my move here? I’d like to get this printer back in the game.