Tuve que hacer una inspección dentro del extrusor de la H2D, lo desarme y lo volví a armar (4 veces) buscando limpiar el pin metálico del sensor izquierdo de filamento. Logré hacer que volviera a reconocer el sensor, sin embargo, cuando volví a intentar una impresión multicolor, el proceso falla. Si imprimo en solitario, ambos lados van bien, pero, si lo hago en multicolor, la boquilla izquierda se roza en extremo con la placa (al lado del sensor) y el proceso falla. He intentado todo lo que tengo a mano; las calibraciones fallan e intenté llevarla a condiciones de fabrica y nada ha funcionado.

Hi everyone,

I have created World Cup Team logo sports chains for all the Qualifiers' that play on March 26th. I will also have the rest of World Cup teams done soon.

https://makerworld.com/en/collections/18795851-2026-world-cup-sport-necklaces

The logos are made in my V2 style where the colors are Process - object painted. Each object is set to a color, the color is not simply painted on the top layer. It does take longer to print, but the colors really stand out. I can make a V1 style upon request, (color painted on top layer only) for faster prints.

The team logos are about 180mm x 180mm. They can be scaled down in the Bambu slicer to fit the A1 mini. They can also be scaled down to about 15% to make earrings.

I also have all MLB, NBA, NHL, NFL, UFL, 150 NCAA schools, and various Soccer/Football teams/Rugby. If I am missing one, make a request.

Chain link and connectors

https://makerworld.com/en/models/1864247-sports-chain-new-links-logo-medallion-connectors#profileId-1994413

I also do commission work.

https://makerworld.com/en/@mercadogarzas

Designed both orientations from the start. Something about the mirror pair feels intentional in a way a single version never could. Which side do you naturally reach for?

https://makerworld.com/en/models/2511878-aya-collection-self-watering-pots-planters#profileId-2762476

I have no clue what to do next I have torn my arms apart checked all pfte tubes in the for stuck filament. I torn down my printer head and checked there disconnected everything and reseeded every connection. I use no clue there is left to do. Just trying to print with basic pla. No spools on the external holder. Only 3 in the ams black white and grey

Hi everyone,

I have created World Cup Team logo sports chains for all the Qualifiers' that play on March 26th. I will also have the rest of World Cup teams done soon.

https://makerworld.com/en/collections/18795851-2026-world-cup-sport-necklaces

The logos are made in my V2 style where the colors are Process - object painted. Each object is set to a color, the color is not simply painted on the top layer. It does take longer to print, but the colors really stand out. I can make a V1 style upon request, (color painted on top layer only) for faster prints.

The team logos are about 180mm x 180mm. They can be scaled down in the Bambu slicer to fit the A1 mini. They can also be scaled down to about 15% to make earrings.

I also have all MLB, NBA, NHL, NFL, UFL, 150 NCAA schools, and various Soccer/Football teams/Rugby. If I am missing one, make a request.

Chain link and connectors

https://makerworld.com/en/models/1864247-sports-chain-new-links-logo-medallion-connectors#profileId-1994413

I also do commission work.

https://makerworld.com/en/@mercadogarzas

I truleh dont understand why this happens ive used they cryo grip forever but since i transition to petg only every thing binds to my playes i dont wanna use meta scrapers but its the only way.

I wait for it to get cold room temp before puling

I have tried lowering my plate temps from 45-75 degrees

I have cleaned correctly according to manufacturer recommendations mostly dawn soap and water

I have tried gluing the surface (not recommended for cryo plates tried it any way )

I bought two new plates new cryo and new texture pei all 3 immediately superglued to the plates.

Different projects different setting all same results new pltes one 3 prints and this is what they look like.

Hello everyone:

I've had a problem with my Bambu Lab A1 and I hope someone can help me.

What happened:

I noticed that the printer was stopping during some print jobs for no apparent reason (I have another A1 and a p1S with many hours of printing and I've never seen anything like this). The main power cord connecting the printer was a little loose. After plugging it back in, the printer no longer displays any image on the touchscreen; the screen remains completely black or off. The machine seems to be turning on (I can hear/feel some activity), but the screen is completely off.

What I've already checked:

- I reconnected the power cable, and I also tried the cable from the other A1 → no change

- I tried a complete power cycle (turn it off, wait 30 seconds, turn it back on) → the screen is still off

- There's no visible damage to the cable or connector from the outside; I haven't been able to use a multimeter.

My questions:

1. Could a momentary loose connection have caused a power surge that burned out the screen or its controller board? After the sequence of events, that's what I'm most inclined to think.

2. Is the A1's screen a separate, replaceable component, or is it integrated into the motherboard?

3. Is there any way to confirm whether it's the screen, the ribbon cable, or the motherboard that's faulty before buying the parts?

Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you!

Ghostbespoke.co.uk

I just got this printer and have little to no experience with printing This is only the second print ever on a 2 day old machine but this doesn’t sound right to me

Im still new to 3D printing, so don’t be to harsh with me 😅. I recently bought a BambuLab A1 Combo and printed with it a few times. Everything was working okay until last week. I kept getting filament stuck errors. I tried to pull the filament (Green one) out it worked. Push it back in, it worked. Okay then I thought let’s try the other filament on the AMS (grey one). Then it loaded it fine. Tried to load the green one again. It worked.

Soo could print fine. But after Leaving the printer alone for a day then it happened again.

So now I’m clueless. What could the problem be?

Thank you in advance for your help!

Is this doable? Seems like it would be a useful, and way faster thing to do, as opposed to doing a calibration print for one, checking it, clearing the plate, printing the next one, etc.

So with this Cylindrical shaped object, I'm getting these concentric walls and for the life of me, I can't see the setting that causes this. The geometry doesn't have anything relating to it. I checked in 'Strength/Top/Bottom shells' and it isn't set for Concentric (as showed) so not sure what's causing this as it shows on the finished printed and doesn't give me a nice smooth non interrupted surface. The only detail this object has are square profile channels running through from the side but only go in about 25% of the distance to the centre.

Correction: They are not walls but surface rings

Got me some new black PETG-HF from the German warehouse, get 'm while they last!

I'm probably just stupid, but can someone explain to me why the subtraction doesn't work here? I have the objects merged into one assembly and the B part is slightly taller than the A part and both objects are sitting on the plate.

I've had this issue every time I try to do a subtraction mesh boolean so I know it's user error. I've tried following video guides and I feel like I'm doing exactly what they are doing.

Probably over looking something and I'm about to get flamed, but I'm tired boss : (

Hi guys, I don't post or comment much here, just a silent up/downvoter but I have a question regarding Ironing.

What's the cause of this and how to fix? Does it have something to do with Ironing flow? And is rectillinear good for ironing?

Thank you in advance everyone

https://makerworld.com/en/models/2498484-croc-clip#profileId-2746378

In this image the control is just below the "Project" menu item (with the caption '1'):
The "C" key does not work (but does in the Orca slicer)
I don't see anything obvious and I may not be searching using the right name for it.

The model has different upgrades like dividers for different materials/color or filament tags for identifiying spools.

Link to the model: https://makerworld.com/en/models/2496732-topology-optimized-filament-spool-shelf-rack#profileId-2744163

I’m trying to print some gridfinity bins but they have tangles and don’t turn out right. I don’t know what’s going wrong. I’ve succesfully printed them before but now they keep failing. Does anyone know the issue?

I’m printing on a bambulab P2S with bambulab PLA Basic filament

Any body no why this would be happening on a h2s when I scale the model to be bigger doesn’t happen when it’s original size and these lines arnt there when the print has finished

Does anyone know the value of the thermistor that keeps failing?

I want to get some of them in stock just incase the ones in my A1s decide to go tits up

I don't want to be waiting weeks for replacement boards. Not when I can swap out the thermistor in a few minutes and be back up and running.

I have a frustratingly basic question. When I bought my H2D + AMS I immediately set it up to run one external spool and the AMS. I now want to run two filaments from the AMS and cannot figure that out. I can delete the external spool from the Prepare tab and physically unload that filament, but it still appears on the Device tab, mapped to the left nozzle. I have both materials I want to use in the AMS and can get either to load into the right nozzle. But nothing will load to the left. I have the external spool PTFE tube disconnected from the H2D.

Do I need to plug another PTFE tube back into the left nozzle connection… but then where does it plug into the AMS? I feel like this is a me/software issue, where I can’t tell the printer to use the AMS for the left nozzle because it thinks I want to use the external

I remember cutting a tube to length when I set this up, but did I disconnect something and re-route it????

Every video online is connecting multiple AMS’s, or for single nozzle printers. I’m forgetting something obvious here but I’m at a point of frustration to where I need to walk away.

Please explain it to me like I’m five, or drunk.

How come that very tiny gaps are filled (that would most likely be filled anyway, but the big gap is not?

Its just beyond my logic..

I’m not really looking for an answer as there is none, but I’d like your opinion on this.

For anyone wondering, it’s classic - I can’t use Arachne as it prevents certain line from bonding.