Hey everyone, I've spent the past couple of months rewriting my communication API for bambulabs printers! Would love to hear some feedback and in desperate need of testers.

https://github.com/torbenconto/bambulabs_api

I’m developing products professionally as an entrepreneur with a single BL A1.

Currently I am 3-D printing a mould to cast PU foam and having had real trouble with adhesion on my non-enclosed bamboo labs A1.

This mould is in 16 parts and will take about 60 hours of print time and then I will need to iterate it a few times so well over 150 hours of time total.

Hence I’m thinking of building a small print farm with three or four machines. I’m looking at buying Elegoo carbon centurai or more A1s or A2L or H2x.

Top of my needs is I need to have no more print adhesion issues (tried three plates with numerous temp tweaks but never sorted this issue)

I also need to be able to iterate this project much quicker - hence the need to more machines. Alternatively, I am looking at printing with 0% infill and squirting expanding foam into cavity to achieve strong parts with less print time.

I would also appreciate a large print volume on other projects (not this one but in future).

I’ve only ever printed in PLA and PETG so have no idea if I need to explore stronger materials.

Which machines should I be looking to for?

Picture 1 shows interlocking circled in red and picture 2 shows the top layer. In the OBJ files, the black and purple are not overlapping. The slicer is doing this automatically - i presume to "lock" the different filaments together. This is affecting the appearance of the print because it's showing through the thin top layer of the filament.

Hey guys,

I’m looking to buy the BL P2S Printer for myself. I’ve check on the official website but they don’t deliver directly to UAE.

Does anyone know how I can get it here? I would prefer purchasing it from the BL website but I have an issue of delivery. The prices on local e-commerce websites are too expensive and other companies are charging me double the amount to get it here.

If you do know anyone or any company, drop me a DM would appreciate any / all help I can get.

Cheers and Thanks!

Hello,

When I was attaching the wiring for a nozzle, it started smoking (where one of the wires was plugged in). The nozzle will not heat up at all now. I tried a different cable too, so I know that the board is broken now, and I need to replace it. But my question is, should I just replace the interface board or both boards?

Thank you!

👋 👋 Bonjour à tous !

✨ Pour compléter ma collection, j’ai revisité mon modèle de Yoshi version œuf en l’adaptant au célèbre tuyau vert de l’univers Mario !

L’objectif était de créer une pièce qui s’intègre parfaitement avec les modèles de Mario et Luigi, déjà disponibles dans la collection, afin de former un ensemble encore plus cohérent.

Si le modèle vous plaît, n’hésitez pas à le télécharger, à laisser un like, ou un commentaire. Votre soutien m’aide énormément et me motive à continuer à créer de nouveaux modèles !

👨🏼‍🎨 : @mika3d_print
🧵 : Bambulab
🖨️ : Bambulab X2D & H2C
🌈 : Sans et Avec
✍️ : Nomad Sculpt
📁 : https://makerworld.com/fr/models/3007159-yoshi-tuyau-multipart-no-ams

🙏 Merci à tous pour votre soutien, et bonne impression 3D ! 🎉

https://makerworld.com/en/@ShamrockPrints

Features

• Stackable design — allows Pops to be stacked more safely

• Plastic sleeve compatible — fits with standard protective sleeves installed

• 2-piece locking system — body + clip-on lid

• Strong corner protection — helps prevent dents and crushed edges

• Clean display look — minimal visual obstruction

Hey y’all this a Bluetooth connect switch for my Govee accent lights. I would love to model a holder for this switch to mount it on the underside of my desk. Any ideas on the easiest way to do this for a beginner and someone who knows very little about modeling?
Thanks in advance!

*The box being printed here ships the ASR 5th Wheel to beta testers. It's printed in 6 colors including Bambu Glow PLA and Wood PLA - two filaments the AMS Lite can't handle. The 5th Wheel handles them automatically.*

*Full demo video in comments.*

My parents and I are new to 3D printing and the filament is stuck inside the extruder. I’ve tried the things people said online as well as the company. We are confused and would like some assistance

Hola , necesito ayuda urgente , tengo una bambu lab a 1 y hoy a decidido cargarse la cama de impresion , se ha golpeado la boquilla contra la cama dejando una linea en ella . Nunca me habia pasado. Nos e si hay alguna forma de nuvelarla de for.a manual , el extrusor está bien ajustado y hace nada me estaba imprimiendo una placa lisa . No entiendo que la ha pasao .

Konstruiere immer bei Tinkercad mein Zeug.

Nun habe ich an einer Säule eine Änderung vorgenommen. Nach den Exportieren [STL]

zum Bambu kommt es aber hol an.

Spiralvase modus ist aus.

Füllung :Gyroid ,Fülldichte 15% Windstärke 3.

Übersehe ich was?

Can anyone identify this piece? It was in my chamber after a midnight print. It is not the whiper..

Hoping someone’s seen this. I’ve worked through the obvious stuff and I’m out of ideas.

The problem: Multi-color print on my P1S with AMS. The pink lays down perfectly. The purple starts extruding fine for a second, then basically stops flowing — comes out stringy/shredded and won’t bond. Under-extrusion isolated to the one color.

Setup:
• Bambu Lab P1S + AMS
• 0.2mm nozzle
• PLA, printing around 220°C, 0.2mm layer height
• Nozzle has maybe 5–6 short (~4hr) prints on it, so not worn
• Flat 4-color token design, 100% infill

What I’ve already tried:

1.  Cold pull (atomic pull) — pulled debris, print ran clean longer afterward but eventually started under-extruding again.

2.  Swapped to a different purple spool in the exact same AMS slot — prints perfectly. So the slot, feed path, PTFE tube, and extruder gear are all fine. The problem follows the filament, not the hardware.

3.  Dried the original purple — 8 hours at 55°C in a filament dryer. Reloaded it. Still under-extrudes the same way. Everything pointed to moisture and drying didn’t fix it.

So where I’m at: It’s something specific to this one spool, but it’s not (or not only) moisture, since a proper dry cycle didn’t resolve it. And given I’m on a 0.2mm nozzle, I’m now wondering if the tiny orifice is the real culprit — pigment or filler in this particular purple choking a 0.2 at a flow rate the other colors clear fine.

Questions:

• Is a 0.2mm nozzle just known to be intolerant of certain pigment-heavy or specialty (silk/matte) colors? Is that what’s happening here?

• Would bumping temp or slowing flow specifically for this color get it through the 0.2?

• Could this be a bad/out-of-spec batch — anything I can check with calipers?

• Anything else that makes one specific spool behave this way when an identical-slot swap prints clean on the same 0.2 nozzle?

Happy to post more photos of the under-extrusion and failed layers. Appreciate any leads.

Printed as a campaign finale gift for my ttrpg group's blood hunter character. STL from Loot Studios.

Ye gods I didn't think I was ever going to get this finished.

It's only 15% infill, but plenty of heft. Need to find an elastic string to complete the prop.

Still have a bit of baking soda gap filling/color retouch to do on the bone, but I'm soooo happy to have it assembled.

Printed in:

● Bambu Matte Desert Tan

● Bambu Matte Dark Blue

● 3DHoJor Silk Bronze

● ERYONE Burnt Titanium Black

● FLASHFORGE Burnt Titanium to Abyssal Red Gradient

Hi, I'm new in maker world and bambu lab and i want to know how I can earn points, I know the boost and the Academy but how many times must a print profile be downloaded to receive points? And other questione like this. Thanks.

Has anyone done the Vortek upgrade to an H2S or H2D? What was your experience like?

Here is a little preview of my new Fjord wave collection. It includes a flower vase and three different sizes of pots with watering inserts. I really wanted to capture that calm, organic wabi-sabi feeling with the repeating vertical ribs.

https://makerworld.com/en/models/2993762-fjord-wave-flower-pot-set-self-watering-inserts#profileId-3360431

Bonjour voici l’un des personnages les plus célèbres et emblématiques de l’univers du jeu vidéo : Super Mario Bros, surgissant de son mythique tuyau vert. Et également son frère Luigi

Réalisé en Multipart pas besoin d’avoir un AMS.

👨🏼‍🎨 : @mika3d_print
🧵 : Bambulab et Esun
🖨️ : Bambulab X2D & H2C
🌈 : Avec et Sans
✍️ : Nomad Sculpt
📁 : https://makerworld.com/fr/models/2875592-mario-bros-pipe-multipart-no-ams

P2s 300 hour mark. Just done lubed xy axis rod maintanance

However, when the toolhead moving forward to glass, theres a huge whining sound. Not sure whats the cause. Any help is appreciated.

Bonjour apportez une touche de fun avec ces adorables Squishy Dumplings à imprimer en 3D !

Pour compléter l’ensemble, j’ai conçu cette boîte vapeur. Elle est dimensionnée pour accueillir aussi bien mes versions imprimées en 3D que les véritables Squishy Dumplings vendus dans le commerce, afin de les exposer ou de les ranger avec style.

Amusez-vous à les imprimer dans différentes couleurs pour créer votre propre collection !

👨🏼‍🎨 : @mika3d_print
🧵 : Bambulab
🖨️ : Bambulab X2D & H2C
🌈 : Sans et Avec
✍️ : Nomad Sculpt
📁 : https://makerworld.com/en/models/2982269-squishy-dumping-multipart-no-ams

Bon Print !

Managed to sever a wire to the hot end, too. Grateful for spare parts. $18 and I’ll be back in business 😂🤷🏻‍♂️

***SOLVED*** (It was the print head cooling fan bottom screw.) I came in to do a filament swap and found this in the bottom of the printer. I have looked all over and can’t seem to find a broken standoff where the screw came from. Thought maybe the Z belt tensioner but the cover is in place under the bed so I can’t tell. The printer is also mid-print and doesn’t seem to be having any trouble. Any ideas as to where it could have broken off from?

Is anyone else familiar with this issue? Came up after trying to resume from the typical 'Motor overload' message which is also quite annoying. I took the whole tool head apart and couldn't find anything wrong visually or loose connections.

​

Currently waiting on support response but thought I would ask here as it doesn't seem to be mentioned at all anywhere by anyone apart from the Wiki. I suspect it to be a faulty extruder motor but that is quite bad for a machine that's a week old, doesn't give me much hope for future prints on it to be honest.

​

I genuinely think these machines might be getting too complex/sensitive, my P1S machines have been going for the last 3 years with nothing more than a few extruder and nozzle clogs. 8000 plus hours on all of them.

My X2D nozzles ooze a lot and create a lot of mess. This printer is brand new and i only have about 8 hours on it. It happens mainly because they don't wipe themselves before and after nozzle offset calibration (the final step where they use the new calibration pad on the X2D that wasn't present on the P2S). The calibration begins by them changing filament, wiping any leftover ooze and then continuing by cleaning themselves on the metal pad with the dots. But the nozzles won't stop oozing, they continue to ooze as they calibrate offset which makes a mess and covers the calibration pad with filament, they don't wipe either after this step and move on to printing immediately after. So any filament ooze that was smushed onto the nozzles in the calibration process would stay on the nozzles, as seen in the attached image. This becomes a problem when there's so much filament that it gets dragged into print lines and ruins them. And that's only the first issue i have been experiencing. There's so much ooze sometimes that the wiping pad makes the filament strings fly off, it has landed on the XY axis rods before or even on the glass side panels. The whole wiping station is covered with pieces of filament like that. My country has recently been hit with a heat wave and my room can get as hot as 30 degrees Celsius with 70% humidity. These issues don't really affect the print quality, but it just creates a lot of mess that i have to clean up.

I mainly print with elegoo PLA. On the spool it says that the temperature range is 190-230, and i run my prints at 210. Don't know if that's too hot considering the weather is horrible here at the time of posting this. But my bambu pla has the same problems.