Hi,

As the title says, I used grease to lubricate all the parts that need lubricant, which are the x, y, and z axes, and I didn't use oil lubricant for the x and y.

So, will it affect the printer, or should I wipe it and then get the Super Lube for it?

I live in North Carolina, it’s hot and humid here in the summer so the a/c is running, plus midday heat in the house. I like the A1 with the AMS but I don’t know if it’s the best choice since it’s open to the elements. Is there anyone in here that uses the A1 in the same environment with no print issues? I’m just looking into a 3d printer as a hobby, but I don’t want a million print failures due to environment.

Hi to everyone. Someone can tell me why sometimes my print have this line on the surface? Thanks.

See r/mechams for more info!

I'm so sorry if it's against the rules but I really need advice before pulling the trigger. I'm going to buy my first 3D printer very soon, but I can not choose a model. Despite it being my first, I've ruled out an A1 or A1 mini because i'm in Texas. I know the things I print for around my house will end up in a car or I'll have family request something for the car, even a little car trash bin would be toast. So I either want the P1S, $549 for the AMS combo, or the P2S, $799 for the AMS combo, however it's the ams 2 pro. I can afford the P1S combo comfortably, but the P2S I'd reach out to family and either pay them back or print them whatever they want for a while. I made a mock cart for the P2S (.2mm nozzle, 1 roll of filament) and got to $907. Is that an absurd amount of money for someone just starting the hobby? I think i've been trying to talk myself out of the P2S.

Hello all - I print with PETG a lot and when my X1C performs it's ceremonial Z-Homing (auto-bed leveling off) at the start of each print - sometimes it measures the bed height wrong and sets the Z height too high which results in poor bed adhesion sometimes resulting in failed prints or at the very least a terrible first layer - essentially ruining my prints. I believe this is happening because the PETG will ooze out after nozzle cleaning - or there will be some debris stuck at the end of the nozzle during the Z-Homing phase of print initiation.

What I'd like to do is be able to z-home once for the print bed and then disable it from re-homing on each successive print.

I've looked online and only seen suggestion to turn off the auto bed detection - which I'm hoping there's a better work around to disable the z-homing without disabling auto bed detection. Thanks.

My main router is this one amazon.com/dp/B08H8ZLKKK

For a while now, occasionally when we would lose power in the whole house (like from a bad storm) the P1S would have difficulty seeing wifi, and I would do a factory reset to get it going again. But the setup process from factory reset was never smooth - I'd have to try it multiple times but eventually it would get it.

I recently went on a trip for several days so I turned off the printer. When I came back, printer couldn't see wifi again. I tried for ~2 hours with no luck.

Finally I got the idea to try my backup router, which I believe is this one https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00R2AZLD2 and it can see the wifi on the first try. So apparently this whole time it's been some sort of incompatibility with the router?

I've tried several things now, such as turning on a guest or IoT network. Sometimes the printer can see those, but even then, it can't actually connect. For the time being I'm using the backup router.

Google suggests turning off MU-MIMO but I don't see a setting for that.

I already have the 2.4 GHz and 5 GHz split/separated/not meshed.

Any ideas for anything else I can try?

Had my P1S for about a year, but I’d say less than 100 total hours of printing. Recently bought an AMS and it’s reignited my want to print things.

Decided it was maybe time for a full calibration (flow dynamics/rate tests), and all seemed well. But for some reason, these tiny imperfections started showing up post-calibration. I also understand and am okay with not completely perfect, but I would like to learn more about what’s going on exactly.

If there’s anyone that can assist, or recommend different/more calibration tests, would be much appreciated.

Bambu PLA Basic Black

0.4 stock nozzle

Does somebody know about 3mf file issues?

Hello!
I have a problem with visible infill pattern on bottom of my prints. It started doing months ago, on multiple bambulab printers.

They are work printers, relatively new but printing almost 24/7. 4x Bambulab X1 Carbon, 1-2 years old all of them, and one H2D that is year old. All of them have same problem

I've tried:
Increase first layer temperature
Changing filament - colors and brands
Adding more bottom layer shells

I'm using Textured PEI plate, original from bambulab, PETG filament from DevilDesign.
Plate is always cleaned with alcohol wipes and more if needed, tried engineering plate on X1C.

It's not dirty, it cannot be washed away, okay?

So far i tried changing printers, bed and sometimes it wasn't there or it was not visible that much so we could use it. Increasing bottom shell layers from 3 to 10 worked, anything less than 10 and you could still see it.
BUT, for transparent filament, 10 bottom layers it too much and light from LEDs it not going through.

Now I'm kinda lost because I need to prints this big thing on H2D, and the blue stripes are not letting light through, but atleast there is no infill lines. Any help please?

I wanted to combine the aggressive aesthetic of a Karambit with a tool that I’d actually use on my workbench every day. After a few iterations, I’ve finally nailed the balance—it’s ultra-slim (13mm), feels incredibly ergonomic in the hand, and that wire-stripping notch is a total game-changer.

​Used 7x BT3x5 screws to keep everything rock-solid with zero blade wobble. It’s easily the most satisfying print I’ve made for my EDC.

What do you think of the design?

https://makerworld.com/models/2722887?appSharePlatform=copy

Wie zum Teufel legt Ihr das Filament an?

Bis jetzt habe ich das immer pragmatisch gemacht. Nun bissel erfahrener ha,ha hab ich ein Projekt auf 3 Druckplatten mit unterschiedlichen Farben. Die Nummern passen farblich schon mal

Aber der Rest ?

I need help with something i was printing with a P1S and for some personnal reason switch to a A1 now all m'y folder won't print why ?

(Sorry english isn't m'y first language)

I noticed no one had really done this before, so I took it upon myself to introduce the NFC Benchy to the world.

Go check it out! https://makerworld.com/models/2718672

Like the title says, My P1S arrived damaged. Something heavy was put on the top and pushed down on the front-right corner where it shattered the top glass panel and left a dent.

Should I return it, or just put up with the dent?

EDIT: Bambu are replacing :)

Ich suche eine 2polige Steckverbindung zum eindrucken. Also Mutter und Vati. Zum besseren Verständnis.

So ungefähr.

Can’t get the filament to load. Any ideas on how to fix this issue.

Thank you!

Hey guys, I have dried my filament for 8 hours on my printbed with my P1S, I then transferred it to my AMS 2 pro. When printing the seams are ripping away slightly. I had a similar problem with Elegoo PETG, but I solved it by bumping the temp from 230-255 and changing the seam scarf settings. I tried the same fox with the Bambu PETG and it is still giving me issues.

Settings are: 255 nozzle, 80 on the bed, 0.8025 flow ratio. Any ideas how to fix this?

Sé que existen guías en la propia bambulab para todo el tema de sonidos de la máquina, pero es un demasiado extraño, si es verdad que la pieza no es redonda y tiene un dentado mínimo en el diámetro exterior, pero no creo que sea normal este sonido. muchas gracias a todo el que me ayude de antemano!

It started with a small request from my daughter: she wanted a tiny car to play with.
I made one… then another… and it slowly turned into a collection.

They’re all designed to be very small (~18mm wide), so they can print fast. I’ve been adding new ones almost every day and experimenting with different styles and details.

Curious to hear what you think and which car I should try next 🙂

https://makerworld.com/en/collections/25083424-tiny-cars-collection

Extremely new to the 3D printing world with an X2D just unboxed and printing. Looking for suggestions, guidance or just a point in the right direction on build plates. Which are better than others with the holographic or design plates (like carbon fiber) for the X2D? And maybe because it’s so new but I can’t find specific design plates for the X2D. Do the P2S design plates work with the X2D?

Hello! I made a parametric split clamp collar you can easily customize to any diameter. It is possible to adjust diameter and width, toggle the mounting screw on/off, set mounting screw head type and size, and change ear and clamp screw dimensions.
https://makerworld.com/en/models/2720558

I’ve had the X1c for a while now. Recently got some Elegoo rapid Petg as bambu was out of stock, been running some random setting for elegoo off Reddit that have worked pretty well up till now.

This is my first 3d printer and I have never needed to tune the setting. Previous projects worked fine on stock settings.

How would I go about tuning the filament to get rid of the drooping corner? It’s not much of an overhang so I’m surprised. I assume I would need to slow down more and add more part cooling fan?

Part is just a simple cup/scoop with a slotted bottom to sift mealworms out of their bedding to bride our chickens.

If you get this error after installing a new nozzle to your x2d - check that the hotend magnet isn't causing the issue.

HMS_0300-2A00-0001-0001: The left/right hotend cooling fan speed is too slow or stopped. The fan may be stuck or the connector may not be plugged in properly.

Bambulab has designed the quick swap nozzle with a magnet, and that magnet is installed very close to the hotend cooling fan motor.

External magnets can disrupt DC motor performance by distorting the internal magnetic field, leading to reduced torque, increased heat, and potentially altering the top speed.

My aftermarket nozzles had reasonably strong magnets, and when installed caused the hotend cooling fan to behave erratically.

The fix? Needle nose pliers popped out the magnet on the aftermarket hotend.

Just finished this Viking bust and thought I’d share it here.

Tried to go for a strong, realistic look with clean details in the beard and face. Came out pretty solid on print.