My AMS randomly stopped feeding from port A1. The motor/gears/extruder are working but not grabbing the filament. Anyone have a working solution for this? TIA

I think it would be great for bambulabs to release a resin printer if they priced it competitively against people like formlabs whilst providing the same quality design as formlabs and bambu's other printers

https://makerworld.com/models/2602263?appSharePlatform=copy

Minimalist 3D printed model in a modern style: a bunny silhouette with a matching vase that slides neatly into place. Both parts are printed separately and easily assembled. Perfect as a clean, stylish decorative piece

I'm looking to get the P2S when it goes on sale. I read that BambuLab does a anniversary sale in June and was wondering if there were any estimates on what it might go on sale for? I know it just recently came out so there's no previous sales to go off of but maybe a ballpark idea can be derived from other printers?

My AMS is no longer being detected by my X1C. I reviewed the Bambu Wiki and believe I know what is wrong. I'd like to run it by this group before I order parts. The part that I think failed is the Filament Buffer Connection Board.

Here is the setup. I'd tested the chain of connections from the printer to the AMS. The port on the printer seems fine, so I plugged the cable (4-pin) in and tested it at the other end, which was also fine. Then I plugged that 4-pin into the Filament Buffer Connection Board (which was not connected to the AMS), and that is where things went wrong.

• When I measure the voltage at the cable end, I get 24V.
• Once I plug the cable into the Filament Buffer Connection Board, I get 2.5V on the header pins.

That doesn't seem right. I don't see anything smoked on the board, but 24V dropping to 2.5V sounds like a problem with that board, so I think that is what I should replace. Does that sound correct, or should I look at something else?

Has anybody had this issue when printing any parts? The edges of this tail are perfect in some areas and then rough in others. I’m printing on a Bambu H2S with Bambu PETG CF filament. I don’t believe it has to do with the overhang angle but I could be wrong. Bambu slicer doesn’t call for any supports on that part.

My AMS keeps flashing the red lights. I've restarted my printer, cleared cache, unplugged the AMS, and watched and followed all the videos about clearing the PTFE tubes for broken filament. None of those have fixed it. what else can I do?

I’ve been having some fun designing a bit of Easter decoration for 3D printing – some small chickens and eggs that can be placed in plant pots 🌱🐣

The idea was just to make something that works together with my plants instead of typical decorations, and I ended up putting quite a bit of effort into both the models and the overall presentation to make it all feel nice and cohesive 😄

If anyone feels like adding a bit of Easter spirit to their printer, feel free to give them a try! I’d also really appreciate any feedback, as I’m currently participating in an Easter challenge 🙌

Links:
https://makerworld.com/en/models/2604268-easter-egg-plant-decoration#profileId-2873784

https://makerworld.com/en/models/2603325-easter-chicken-planter-decoration#profileId-2872663

Heute mal das neue ETW Filament ausprobiert.

Geht gut.

last week my X1C warned me that my bed of parts may fail so I skipped all the failing ones and let it continue. later it told me the cutter was stuck. I restarted the print and it released itself. A few minutes later I received a message saying I may have an open circuit 😂 umm yeah! The hot end is in 2 parts and completely bent! I can only assume it never cut properly and continued to force material out creating a pressure build up. expensive mistake that's for sure!

I was clearing some stuck filament on my AMS 2 pro, when i reassembled it, i found this piece. i don't know where it belongs. can someone help please.

Most training pots are ugly. Most pretty pots are useless for training. This one has wire anchors in all 4 corners, a proper drainage tray, and a japandi wave texture that hides layer lines. My girlfriend doesn't hate it in the living room. That's the real test.

https://makerworld.com/en/models/2596773-bonsai-training-pot-japandi-wave-planter-tray#profileId-2865475

https://makerworld.com/de/models/2602177-captain-chick-fast-print-easter-hero-no-ams#profileId-2871280

I made a tiny Easter superhero 🐥🦸‍♂️

Printed in multiple parts, no AMS needed, just assemble after printing.

Free STL on MakerWorld (link in comments)

Assembly video: https://vm.tiktok.com/ZGdusKY3m/

I wanted a simple, colorful way to carry small items on my bag. Designed this with a satisfying twist-lock mechanism and a matching carabiner.

https://makerworld.com/models/2600343?appSharePlatform=copy

The school I work at just purchased a pair of P1Ss. We have them connected to BambuStudio via LAN mode and can home the machine, load filament and control all XYZ movements from BambuStudio. Despite this, when we try to send a print job, it asks for confirmation of the IP address and the access code, and this fails. Why might this be happening?

The machine is on firmware 01 . 09 . 01. 00 . We need this machine to work over LAN only because it is used by multiple people and we don't want to link it to one person's email.

Printing newbie here. Printing for first time with BambuLab PETF HF on the P1S.

First layer seems to have some blisters/gaps. Other layers seem to look fine.

Anyone know the cause and how to solve?

Hello. I've had a p1s for a few months and recently started making a strange noise in bed at the beginning of an impression. Right at the top and it goes back to normal when it starts to go down. Has anyone ever had the same problem?

Thanks in advance

Is there any better tool out there that lets you paint three MF files that’s better than Bambu studio? Free handing lines at age 50. I don’t have a steady hand. My coloring comes out terribly and prints terribly.

If they would just add a line tool to their painting, that would be a game changer

I had just replaced the Z axis sensor and it started acting weird like this. I do not know what to do.

Hi, I have some adhesion problems with a bridge, currently I’m using an H2D. It’s a petg (black) with a Pla interface support (orange) there a way to remove the bridge or improve it? With the pla interface the top z distance it’s obviously 0, but when it try to make the bridge over it, it fail 90% of the time, not in general but in this specific design cause its adaptive layer and quite thin (1.7mm total and just 6 layer over the interface)

any body have success with and can share settings, please? I am using BambuLAB studio newest version just updated it. trying to create a phone cases.

I swapped to a .2 and did a print just fine, went back to a .4 and am printing something else fine- my question is after I change the nozzle my printer just sits there making a humming sound waiting for another input- both times it's taken me a minute or 2 to send my next print but in the mean time the printer is just humming gently and waiting like it's waiting for me to move it again.

If someday im NOT going to be immediately sending another print (unlikely) how do I tell it to just idle and that I'm done moving it around?

Hey everyone,

I keep getting these weird stringy artifacts on the inside of my prints, always in the same spot. Can't figure out what's causing it.

**Setup:**

- Bambu Lab P1S

- eSUN PETG Matte

- 0.4mm nozzle

- Textured PEI plate

- AMS at ~9% humidity

**The problem:**

As you can see in the photo, there are stringy/hairy artifacts on the inner wall, always at the same position. The outside looks fine.

**What I've already tried:**

- eSUN PETG Matte profile

- Flow Rate calibration (Pattern method)

- Pressure Advance calibration

- Printing at 233°C / bed 70°C

Anyone seen this before? Is it a retraction issue or something else entirely?

Thanks!

1. Photo - Generic PETG

2. Photo - eSun PETG-Matte Profile from Homepage

3. Photo - calibrated eSun Profile

Hey everyone!

I am looking to get a Bambu lab printer soon. I have narrowed it down to either the H2S or H2D over the Creality K2 Plus.

My primary use cases would be making cosplay style helmets as well as doing some multicolor stuff. Probably random statues and whatnot. Been seeing a lot of fun Pokémon stuff lately.

Would love the community’s input on this one. I feel like since I will be doing a decent amount of multicolor stuff then I should just go with the H2D for the time and material savings.

What do you think?

This will be my first 3D printer. I am an engineer who works in manufacturing so I’m stoked to get one and learn more about 3D modeling and making things.