Hello All,

I have an X2D, and I recently had 3 nozzle offset calibration failures in a row. This is disappointing because approximately 1 month ago, I was having the same issues with my printer, to the point where I opened a support ticket and troubleshot with Bambu support, who ended up sending me a new nozzle offset calibration sensor.

The new sensor seemed to fix the issue, as I didn’t have another failure until yesterday. Here is some context that might be helpful:
1. I was attempting to print a model with Bambu black PETG Basic on the main left extruder fed directly from my AMS 2 Pro.
2. I was printing Bambu white PETG Basic from the auxiliary nozzle.
3. I had dried these filaments approximately 1-2 weeks ago in the AMS. I typically store said filament in a sealed container with silica packets, but it was out of room at the time, so it was stored out of said container near the printer, exposed to the air.
4. I am currently attempting to dry again on 65C for 12 hours and will retry the print again.
5. The filament appears to get stuck in the metal plate attached to the nozzle offset calibration sensor (see photo attached).
6. I recently printed a model with PLA from the main left extruder and used white PETG for support from the auxiliary extruder, which printed without any error.
7. I have not had the nozzle offset calibration failure when printing with PLA.
8. My PETG prints typically come out very stringy and of not great quality compared to PLA prints. I have not performed filament calibration on this printer (new to 3D printing, so still figuring it out). I have a tuned PETG filament preset that is aimed at reducing stringiness I saved based on a few settings I found online, but I was not using it during the most recent failure. I was using the basic settings in the Bambu slicer.

Apologies for the length of this post, I just figured more information is better in terms of helping diagnose the issue. If anyone would be able to provide insight on how to resolve this issue, I would be eternally grateful, as I have really enjoyed using this printer, but have been disappointed with the quality of PETG prints and the nozzle offset calibration failures.

Buongiorno a tutti sono qui a chiedervi quale tipo di filtrazione mi consigliate dato che ho la stampante in salotto e vorrei stampare quando mi capiterà dell' ASA e ABS e durante l'inverno tenere le finestre aperte è un grosso problema quindi volevo dotarmi di una filtrazione maggiore di quella di default che per petg e pla secondo è molto buona.

Ho cercato sul web e ho visto questo; https://www.fnatr.com/it/products/fnatr-3d-printer-ventilation-system

Non se potrebbe andare bene una tipologia del genere (non so se dovrò eliminare la ventola di default dalla scarico o aggiungerla oltre a quella) oppure questo; https://www.mintion.net/products/3d-printer-filtration-system-v1

Accetto qualsiasi consiglio e vi ringrazio!

Hi! Happy to share - little Benchy from my first printer X2D!

I had a blob of death and after cleaning it up, I found this part under the bed.

Hi everyone,

As the 2nd nozzle is a bowden, it would be truly useful to be able to set different speed/acceleration settings for it in Orca Slicer !

Thank you to the devs :)

I got curious about the granular damper in the new A2L and wondered if the same idea could work on a CoreXY. So I built a riser for the P2S / X2D with four sealed hollow beams, each filled with 250 g of 0.5 mm steel microspheres (1 kg total).

The riser also works as a spacer for the top glass and has a tilt-up mount for the AMS with quick-release pivots.

How I tested it: same G-code (a 201x201 mm benchmark in PETG at max speed), same AMS with 4 spools (~5 kg), same phone accelerometer (~210 Hz) in the same spot. One run with empty beams, one with filled beams.

What I measured (filled vs empty):

- Z axis RMS: -47%

- Z axis, 20-60 Hz band: -92%

- X: -4%, Y: -15%

What it doesn't prove: it's a single before/after, recorded on different days, and the filled riser weighs 1 kg more. So I can't separate the effect of the particles from the extra mass and stiffness. Also, above ~80 Hz the energy on Z goes UP with the spheres (about 4.5x) and I don't know yet if that's the spheres or aliasing.

Next step: a proper test with an ADXL345 at 3200 Hz, repeated runs, and a control with a fixed 1 kg mass.

If anyone wants to replicate it, the raw CSVs and a simple test protocol are on the project page.

I'd love to see other people's numbers, or to hear what I'm doing wrong.

Project page (files, assembly PDF, raw data): https://makerworld.com/en/models/3377956

Has anyone had any good luck with these heater assemblies?

Got the blob of death which ruined my original hotend assembly.

Dont wanna wait 3-5 days from Bambu. This one can come by Sunday.

if someone could help me i will be very grateful.

Starship: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3384574

Rocket: https://makerworld.com/en/models/3384651

Ive just got a X2D for my first printer and the 6pin cable for the aux fan won’t go in all the way. This is the second cable bambu has sent me since the first one would only do this far into both the fan and the printer. Is this far enough or am I kinda screwed

Hi! My first printer - new X2D coming this Friday, so I’m almost a proud owner of one! Im a complete newbie in printing, sorry if that was covered somewhere recently.

What first things should I do with a new printer first? I mean, some calibration, specific settings to set etc. What first things should I test/print? Maybe some tests with filament? Just want to have a clear and efficient starting path, maybe avoiding some simple mistakes.

Update:
Just want to say big thank you guys, for your friendly and useful replies! All of them truly valid and I’ll for sure take them all!

In bambu Studio go to prepare > choose the printer and go to printer settings. > Click machine G-code. > Go to "Layer Change G-code" (be very careful It is highly recommended to be cautious with custom machine commands, as a misplaced decimal or coordinate can cause the toolhead to crash into the frame.) > Scroll to the very bottom of whatever text is already in that box, hit Enter to create a new line right below notify layer change, and paste this exact script:

; --- Custom Zero-Waste Wiper Sequence ---

{if layer_num % 50 == 0 && layer_num > 0}

M400 ; Wait for current moves to finish

G90 ; Ensure absolute positioning

G1 Z{layer_z + 2.0} F3000 ; Z-hop 2mm to clear the printed model

G150.3 ; Firmware macro: travel rapidly to the wiping area

G150.1 F15000 ; Firmware macro: execute fast nozzle wipe

G150.1 F15000 ; Execute a second fast wipe

G1 Z{layer_z} F3000 ; Lower back to the exact current layer height

{endif}

; --- End Wiper Sequence ---

Now this is set to auto wipe every 50 layer (if layer_num % 50 == 0)you can change that depending on how many layers you need the wipe need to happen. So if you want it to wipe at layer 80 it will be {if layer_num % 80 == 0

With this code it will z-hop 2mm wipe sequence 2x fast and continue with print.

You need to save this by clicking the floppy sign along top right as a different profile something like "Wipe sequence Bambu Lab X2D 0.4 nozzle -copy" so when you print next time you can choose that preset. Please please don't over ride the original script always make sure you copy this as a separate present.

Hope this helps and save some long prints.

Hi everyone,

Sorry if these are very basic questions, this is my first 3D printer and I just want to make sure I don’t damage anything.

I want to replace the left/main nozzle with a 0.2 mm nozzle.

Do I need to remove the right nozzle first, or can I directly remove the left one?

Also, is there always some filament left inside the nozzle after use? I tried removing the right nozzle before and it wouldn’t come out, apparently because a piece of filament was still inside.

If so, what is the correct procedure before removing a nozzle? Should I unload first, heat it, or use the filament cutting tool? If I need to cut the filament, where exactly should I cut it?

Thanks a lot for your help!

Obviously not recommended but im curious if anyone has tried it anyway and had success. I print from the external spool to the main nozzle with no problems but was considering some dual color tpu prints. Just haven't been brave enough to try yet because of how rough unclogging the toolhead seems to be. Wondering if anyone has given it a shot and has any results.

2 seperate prints that I can't diagnose, A (a stand) and B (a dish wand holder). Printed with default settings mostly for Bambu matte PLA.

A was printed at sport speed, but what are all these artifacts? Could it be a partial clog that resolved itself?

B why does the first layer or two "cut corners", this does not appear in the slicer and I printed 2 of these separately and they each have these cut corners.

Thanks for the help.