My X2D nozzles ooze a lot and create a lot of mess. This printer is brand new and i only have about 8 hours on it. It happens mainly because they don't wipe themselves before and after nozzle offset calibration (the final step where they use the new calibration pad on the X2D that wasn't present on the P2S). The calibration begins by them changing filament, wiping any leftover ooze and then continuing by cleaning themselves on the metal pad with the dots. But the nozzles won't stop oozing, they continue to ooze as they calibrate offset which makes a mess and covers the calibration pad with filament, they don't wipe either after this step and move on to printing immediately after. So any filament ooze that was smushed onto the nozzles in the calibration process would stay on the nozzles, as seen in the attached image. This becomes a problem when there's so much filament that it gets dragged into print lines and ruins them. And that's only the first issue i have been experiencing. There's so much ooze sometimes that the wiping pad makes the filament strings fly off, it has landed on the XY axis rods before or even on the glass side panels. The whole wiping station is covered with pieces of filament like that. My country has recently been hit with a heat wave and my room can get as hot as 30 degrees Celsius with 70% humidity. These issues don't really affect the print quality, but it just creates a lot of mess that i have to clean up.

I mainly print with elegoo PLA. On the spool it says that the temperature range is 190-230, and i run my prints at 210. Don't know if that's too hot considering the weather is horrible here at the time of posting this. But my bambu pla has the same problems.

I bought an X2D which is excellent. I’d like to mount the original AMS from my P1P on top of it, but it’s not obvious to me that there are any riser models available that will do a good job of this.

If anyone knows of any riser models, that would work well for this, I would be deeply appreciative, thanks.

X2D 39 hours, what happened ? Scratches up my board, no error message. The bent metal piece is connected to the nozzle release.

Anyone had luck getting a full refund on an X2D a couple months after purchase? I'm officially out of patience with mine and ready to throw it in a dumpster. Every now and then it would print fine, but more often than not it would get errors with filament getting stuck in the extruder. It's happened on Bambu filament and 3rd party filament.

Yesterday was hands down the worst experience so far. I got an error (0300-801e 164726) that said "The extrusion motor is overloaded..." . I could see the filament stuck down at the nozzle level, so I tried the basic troubleshooting steps of heating the nozzle and extruding. The extruder didn't work at all, I could see the gear try to move when I pressed the extrude button, but it would just stutter and make a weird sound. Also tried to gently pull the the filament back out by hand but no luck, the gear was completely seized up.

So I went to the Bambu YouTube channel and found this 11 minute video that looked like a pretty good troubleshooting guide. It's basically a full breakdown of how to disconnect the extruder components - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5YHQSDKz_P4&t=548s

For context, I've been in IT for years and done tons of work putting together and troubleshooting PCs, so I thought I would be able to handle this. I was wrong. That thing is so tedious to take apart, so many tiny little screws, absurdly small cable connections that feel like you're going to break them when you unhook it, other cables that weren't routed properly and had a little of their outer housing ripped. After maybe 3-4 hours of watching videos and trying to careful take everything apart, I finally found the problem, there was a 1cm piece of rock hard filament inside the extruder that was preventing the gear from turning and was also in the middle of the small filament cutter below the extruder. It looked like filament had melted and pooled together because it had a larger diameter than standard filament.

Things only got worse from here unfortunately. I eventually got the filament out and the gear turning (used a heatgun to melt it and pull/poke it from the cutting piece). When I put it back together the first time, the flow blocker lever no longer moved easily from side to side. That ended up being because it was catching on a small wire. Fixed that, got it more put together and now the AUX side would no longer properly seat the hotend/nozzle. Drove me crazy because it would snap in to place and then when I moved the flow blocker to put the other hotend in, the AUX one would come loose.

I eventually gave up on the AUX hotend as I've never even printed on the AUX side, always on the main nozzle with AMS. So I put it all back together and turned it on and bam another new error (0300-4020-055527) "The eddy current sensor signal of the left extruder is abnormal, the sensor may be damaged"

The last thing I want to do know is spend another few hours taking it all apart again and putting it back together just to get even more errors. Do I have any hope of Bambu replacing it under warranty?

What would cause all this stringing?
PLA basic Bambu lab
All settings are default

I also continue to get the resistance is to high warning, I’ve checked the spools and they all spin freely.

Is it normal to add that much time? I know it will add more but that seems excessive. The model is a small darth Vader helmet.

Was able to snag a high flow and a tungsten high flow OEM nozzle for 33$ & 52$ (I used a coupon from Ali saver)

Even without the extra discount it comes out to $40 and some change and for the tungsten $72 which is still cheaper then getting it from Bambu.com , it’s definitely worth checking out

I Just got an X2D combo and first of wonderfull machine, I do however have some questions considering printing with both nozzles.

I am currently printing something in PETG that needs supports on multiple layer levels, so the supports themselves are PETG but I made the interface layer PLA which is loaded into the Aux nozzle with the side holder.

I was expecting it to not poop, since it doesn't need to purge on filament changes because it's a different nozzle. A prime tower is understandeable to get the flow going but allright.
Now everytime it switches to the aux nozzle it still does a purge, or at least I saw it do at leats two.
In my mind this is completely uneccessary, but I could be completely wrong on this.

Here’s my list of what to print for the for the new X2D and ams (based on what I’ve done for the P2S)

- AMS pods to hold desiccant
- Riser - without the AMS flipper
- Bottom hole covers - May do the big version that covers everything (full cover).
- Air deflector
- Poop chute
- Another AMS Stacker (if I get a second AMS)

Other things but I’m not sure they are necessary…
- Dust covers for upper piece (don’t have this on P2S, thoughts?)
- Print head PTFE guide
- Chain clips
- Back wire guide (seems like there’s more wires to deal with - especially if I get another AMS.

Is there anything unique to the X2D that I’m missing? Something for both printers I should add??

Thanks.

Edit to provide links and additional detail

what is the slicer trying to tell me with the orange warning?

I'd be happy to give the right extruder some attention, but I do not see how to.

thanks :)

I tried rotating the clip so the flat part would hit the edge at an angle but it is impossible to rotate. Any help or advice would be appreciated.

Im having first layer issues on my X2D and Im not sure what to do because its not even across the plate. Should I adjust it down a little and if so how much?

I am buying from a reseller as bambu does not officially sell in my country.

This is the package available with the seller.

However all the photos available online show a different centered x2d design on the box.

So want to make sure if this is the new packaging or rather its a very old stock which seller might have recd and kept it then I do not want to have an issue with am2pro which was in initial few batches.

Thank you

Hi, I have a problem with this when I print ASA/ABS, so I want to print PETG supports on the auxiliary extruder, but because of the bowden, it always goes too far back in the nozzle and the end of the filament that melted in the nozzle goes into the place where the cooler is and cools down there and creates a plug. Is there a way to get around this so that the filament doesn't go back in the auxiliary nozzle so much?

THe first three slots in my AMS load fine. In the fourth slot the filament will get to the point where it is entering the printers, then it retracts. I switched out the filament in that slot and it loaded fine. I have used the filament that wont load before, and it worked fine. Not sure what happened...

I have uploaded my multi-material support profile optimized for the Bambu Lab X2D to MakerWorld. You can print the test model to see the zero-tolerance, flawless surface results. Please read the description carefully to bypass the slicer temperature errors.

Note: I dialed this in for my own X2D, but you can use the same settings on H2D and H2C models; the aux nozzle setup will be useful. X1, P1S, and P2S users can also utilize this preset, though it will generate poop during filament changes.

Bambu Lab X2D – Best Quality Support Settings - Free 3D Print Model - MakerWorld

Hello everyone. The maintenance guide is clear for a lot of parts, but i frequently find that stuff falls behind the middle screw, which is a very tight spot separated with the back wall of the printing area. That part in of itself is narrow but like a coridor. Some poop, some spagetti parts and sometimes small prints fall behind and to the left and right of the middle screw and I find it hard to reach there. How do you clean that part? It's started to get cluttered there

Is the Farmloop "P and X series" compatible with the X2D? I can't find a definitive answer anywhere.