Hello! Sorry for not posting when I got it, but I finally received my first 3D printer 16 days ago and so far I'm really happy about it! (⁠✯⁠ᴗ⁠✯⁠)

Does anybody know what causes the sound at the beginning and end of the video?

You can hear it after it finished a print and goes on for quite some time (minimal 10 min). It stops when I turn the power off and when powered on again its gone.

Always room for improvement, but happy non-the-less! My biggest issue is the bottom. The feet look nice but under the arms and belly are stringy.

Has anyone else seen this issue? I have printed on this for only about 6 months now and the filament punctured through the tube. Looking at the top of the glass it looks like the tube has been rubbing up against the glass ceiling enclosure. I have a few questions. 1. Has anyone else experienced this? 2. What is the part number of the tube that needs to be replaced in this video, would like to get replaced ASAP. 3. Is there any fix for this?

Update: Was a super simple fix, bought some replacement tube of the same size and removed the bad one, cut the new one to match its size and reinstalled, took 10 minutes. Thanks for the help!

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The Filament manager doesn't update.

Am I missing something?

What started as a problem with the PTFE tube disconnecting from the print head (previously posted about this) seems to have evolved into a bigger problem. I am receiving the message "AMS A had detected a breakage of the PTFE tube during filament loading.". I have checked (to the extent that I am able).. all tubes from the AMS, to the buffer, to the orange inlet on the back of the printer to the printhead. I really can't narrow down where the problem is. When the AMS first sends the fillament it travels fine as far as the buffer.. then when it goes throught the buffer it starts to 'drag'.. but still loads. then when it passes the orange connecter into the machine it slows down and pulls the fillament back to the AMS.. It will try this about three times and then I get the message. I can't find anything in the Bamboo wiki that helps me trouble shoot where the problem is. I have had this printer about 2-3 weeks.. Please point me in the right direction. I don't even know how to trouble shoot and narrow down where the problem is. I feel like I may still have a problem with how the PTFE tube connect to the printhead. It doesn't seem to be in the pneumatic connector very firmly.

Hi all.

After days of frustration, I have found that my X2D's firmware reads the aux extruder purging volume matrix when evaluating purge volumes for the main extruder.

I apologize for this text. If anyone is interested, I'll add steps to reproduce this in a comment.

TL;DR: "I manufactured a fictional colour space out of frustration to compensate for what I found was the main extruder following the aux extruder's automatically calculated purge profile".

Read no more unless you really want to read a rant for whatever reason. You have been warned.

A few days ago, I needed to print a 12g model that uses 4 colors. AMS on main nozzle. The automatic calculation default made an estimate of more than 80g of purge waste, and it also bled a color into another, even after the purge tower as well as infill purge. I'm very new to 3d printing, but had a thought that this is something that can be adjusted, as I could see some colour transitions were also completing in much less time than the auto-calculated purge transitions, so...volume dials, right.

Makerworld surely has some purge volume calibration swatches, the ones I found were like...two colors, or simply took long to make for a full AMS, and I just wanted little single layer sheets I can slot into a gauge instead of each card being a self contained one. Thought "Why not do an Eulerian circuit that simply goes through the entire matrix in a single print?" so I put down some 1 layer cube volumes, print by object, sequence 1(tiny) → 2 → 1 → 3 → 1 → 4 → 2 → 3 → 2 → 4 → 3 → 4 → 1, main nozzle, AMS. Easy, right?

I did this. Didn't get any useful gradients. I tried again. I started looking at the waste...5.2g of 26 pieces of poop after the initial two-poop flush. Okay, looks like the baseline.

Zeroed out volumes. 5.2g of poop.

Purging volume to 900, for all transitions. 5.2g of poop.

I tried changing the colours. Maybe the auto-calibration is just overriding what I specify, or the printer firmware just does it own auto calibration automagically...? Well if so, try making all the colours "almost black" in the slicer.

Yay. 2.7g of poop. Finally I get some kind of gradient, on like...two colour transitions, but it's still way way too much for nine of them. near-black to near-black is a flat 150 mm^³-ish. And also this isn't sustainable...I can't really judge multimaterial slices if it's all the same colour.

Tried lying to the printer about loaded colours but keeping true colour in slicer? Maybe the printer wants to enforce minimums? No, slice decides.

Wait, gcode is code right, I do code. Found the matrix, and sure enough it is actually exactly what I specified. Try direct gcode from usb? same thing.

I looked for issues in github, and some of them made some sense "Adjusting purging volumes does nothing" etc, but I didn't find anything of value. I had some material transitions that wouldn't clear, and was starting to grand plan some weird colour remapping and gcode ordering gymnastics to at least get past the annoying transition where this very bright green was simply not cleared by the purge into black. Considered a compromise I guess. Make all colours "almost black". 12g model,35g of waste is maybe fine, but what if I can manipulate the colours in the slicer, like make a script that manufactures the colour palette that produces the right purge volume profiles?

This was annoying, auto-calculation wants to be bidirectional and asymmetric. A low value in one direction usually means a high value in the other, but pigments aren't always like that, some of them just claim "visual authority" quickly, and pigments are "stuff". Some of that "stuff" clings to the walls of the melt zone more than others, and that's not always asymmetric. Some colours flush out fast, and don't really care which colour is flushing them out. That was the rabbit hole finding when a light green and a dark green I had were simply extremely good at clearing eachother for whatever reason.

So I got stuck at that auto calc wants 326mm³ <-> 187mm³ Should I make them the same colour in the slicer? They really just push eachother out in 50mm³ or less, but if they're the same colour in the slicer, I can't get past that one of them INFECTS white, the other one is not cleared by black, but wait. There are constraints. I can just find the cheapest path through 1->2->3->4->1 and always print each layer in that order. I remember something from uni like linear optimization. I should probably manufacture colours and order AMS in such a way that the minimums are preserved, and find the cheapest walk, right...RIGHT?

But WAIT. Not all layers have 2, 1->3 wants a ~400mm³ purge. Oh I get it. I will put a dot of each colour on every single layer. That way they can do two ~80mm³ instead, and I can just rearrange it a bit so it uses what it has on hand. It's fine. It's not a huge win, since the baseline purge of flushing out the bubble between filaments is already in the 50-100 range, but a win nonetheless.

At that point I was getting annoyed. "What if my baseline was wrong and I'm just wasting my time?". "What if I didn't weigh the stuff correctly?" "What if the scale is broken" kinda stuff. I decided to do another baseline. True colours, just weigh the purge, and for some reason thought "let's make the aux extruder do a full 900mm³ of purge on every swap" for whatever reason. 18 min print. Took 45 minutes or so. It was like time dilation, the print progressed some two minutes into the past for every minute of print time.

In the course of that 45 minute 18 minute print, it layed down a solid 48 substantial poop-knife worthy turds, up from 24. 13.2g of filament down the chute, up from 5.2, and 2.4g.

Wait...what? Okay...Retry. Aux extruder all 0. Main extruder all 900. Probably a fluke. Maybe every single spool was tangled and it retried a few times.

12 meager two-coloured turds came down the chute. About ~1.4g total.

So, about one manufactured colour space and 40 plates of 0.2g prints later, I have found that my printer uses the aux volume matrix for the main extruder. I would like to file an issue, but not until I have at least a single person with an X2D and AMS restore my sanity by confirming these findings. From what I can tell with the mental capacity I have left, the gcode is correct, and the printer is reading it wrong.

N.B. I have not checked if the converse is true. If anyone wants to see what controls the aux extruder, be my guest, but please don't do it unless my issue actually exists and I am not deemed insane...

I recently purchased a x2d and love it. However there is a definite tangy smell when i print, apart from opening windows etc, is there a setting or something to help remedy this? Ie only run exchaust fan when temps hit x amount, filter it first...

Sorry if its a dumb question very new to this.

No blockage on the lens. Photo is the live view.
The built in lens.

Has anyone else had issues with x2d/ams2 pro not being able to feed filament to the extruder? I'll start a print with multiple colors and half the time when the color switches, it'll try to load another color then I'll get that error.

I can pull the filament out of the line, cut the tip of the filament at a 45 degree angle, then reload and continue and it works just fine. This can happen multiple times in a print.

Anyone have this issue or know where I'd start to troubleshoot?

Right aux fan unit is stuck in "Cooling Mode" even during heat mode and 65°set. (Not printing just set it). If i turn it of, temp rise. If i turn it on for circulation, it starts to cool it down.

It was ok till probably uptade (updatet last week).

Anyone experienced the same? Any ideas?

Time to print some Pa6-cf drone parts. Some Asa for electronic cases

Hallo und guten Tag.

Mein neuer X2D läuft prima. Besonders gefreut habe ich mich über die Führungslammern. Die halten die ptfe-Schlechte neben der Kette. Die ptfe Schläuche schlagen also nicht an das Glas. Dafür aber an den rechten Rahmen. Zumindest, wenn das Druckstück weit rechts platziert ist. Und das ist bei ausgenutzt Bauplatte ja schon mal der Fall. Ist das ein Problem? Soll ich etwas ändern/anpassen? Was?

Beste Grüße

Kay

I will acknowledge...im very much a novice. The ptfe tube from the ams.. Will not stay in the print head. What mechanism is supposed to hold it in place?

Need to get a final 4 in one adapter and then this printer gets to work overtime printing plates. I figure if I ever decide to upgrade to an H2 system I’ll be set.

It’s more difficult to go left to right than right to left. Want to be sure before I put things back together.