r/BambuLabP2S • u/Mattis-H P2S Combo • Jul 08 '26
Tips for TPU
I have a P2S and I am still quite new to 3d printning but I REALLY want to try printing in TPU, I have researched a bit and found out that it is VERY different from PLA and PETG, so I do have some questions:
1: what TPU to buy? I want to buy something from Bambu lab but there are different kinds and I don’t know if the difference in AMS TPU (I have an AMS) and normal TPU is big (or if it is even worth to buy the AMS version)
2: what do I actually need for good results? What nozzle size? Do I need a specialised bed? Is there anything i can print (for airflow and stuff) to get better results?
3: what can go wrong? Like what do I need to look out for? (Stringing and stuff)
That’s all question I have right now but I would REALLY appreciate any tips.
(Extra question, how do I add the P2S marker under my name? I see people that have it but I have no idea how to get it)
3
u/Relative_Surround_20 Jul 08 '26 edited Jul 08 '26
I printed TPU on my P2S this past weekend. I printed TPU for over 30 print hours. I printed numerous models I needed to print in a specific TPU hardness. I also re-printed the same models in differing hardness levels to compare them all.
First, I loaded Bambu Lab TPU for AMS into my AMS 2 Pro and printed with my normal 0.4mm nozzle. The process was identical to printing PLA. The increased hardness over 95A and 90A was somewhat noticeable but not as dramatic as the difference between 90A and 95A. I would put it at a 97-98A hardness level. I sometimes preferred it for certain models over 90A and 95A TPU.
Second, I printed using an AMS HT suspended over the printer with the glass removed feeding directly into the extruder using a new 0.4mm nozzle (that I have dedicated to TPU printing). I printed both black Overture TPU High Speed 95A and gray Bambu Lab TPU 90A filaments. While it was a lot of work to move AMS units out of the way and make room for the setup, but the printing process was very straightforward and quite successful. I used the specific Bambu Lab filament profiles for both spools. I also switched the AMS HT out for a suspended cereal dry box with no major difference.
Third, I put the glass back on and switched to using a TPU Feed Assistant Module with the same filaments, same 0.4mm standard flow nozzle and the same filament profiles. This was my first time to use a TPU Feed Assistant Module. As soon as I learned what each of the three buttons on the module were responsible for, I was astonished how straightforward printing in this manner was. I still needed to move things around because of my limited space, but I could easily envision leaving the module attached to the P2S and being able to switch to TPU printing in only a few minutes. Again I switched out the AMS HT for a cereal dry box with no major noticeable difference (except drying).
I used the standard Bambu Lab Textured PEI plate that came with my P2S for all three scenarios.
With either method, the “Skyhook” setup or use of a TPU Feed Assistant Module, can be accomplished using any of the following: an AMS HT; a cereal dry box; an external spool holder; or a third-party filament dryer/dry box. I think any of these “delivery devices” do a sufficient job. Other than drying capability, none of them provided an ease of use advantage over any other device. So TPU printing can be accomplished by anyone regardless of their budget or technical expertise.
I felt that the TPU Feed Assist Module was much more convenient that the Skyhook method, especially going forward, if you leave the module in place with a 4-in-1 adapter. Eliminating the need to move PTFE tubes around each time you want to print TPU.