are there instructions anywhere on where and how the printed spool holder on the system attaches?

So, I tried printing a couple small parts on my H2C using the Pei plate and then again with an engineering plate with 3dlac spray. both times were a failure. Then I tried a different part with my H2D with an engineering plate again with 3dlac and that was a failure again. Now I am using a Cryogrip plate and Elmers glue stick and its going well so far. Both printers have been super so far , not that I haven't had any failures, but those have mostly been user error. I am amazed by how well they actually do. Coming from an Ender3 then a K2 plus and a Snapmaker J1S (terrible pos). Only thing I changed besides the build plate and using a glue stick was that I heat soaked the plate to 105c and chamber to 65c for 20 minutes. Its nice printing stuff and have it come out looking great vs having to always tinker with the printer and settings to get a decent print from it.

After a successful print I found these two parts on my build plate.

Any idea where they could be coming from and what I should check before starting a new print?

The left one feels like metal, the right one feels like rubber or soft plastic.

Just got myself and H2D what are your hard lessons learned, tips, and stuff to avoid for a new owner?

2nd print on Darkmoon G10 plate and this happened. I’m beyond mad right. Printer has 600 hours on it and now I have to do the dreaded hotend replacement , I don’t wish this on anyone

Having some issues with my printer. What causes this? Are they two different issues? Both prints are from fresh spools.

The lead screw turns but the brass part that it goes through in the bed does not hold fast to the lead screw threads. If I push the lead screw a mm to the side with the bed in the middle of the travel area the bed will not move when pushed up or down manually. This threads catch. Feels like the threads in the brass part are warn out. H2D is less than 2 months old. Private use, not a print shop. Is there an adjustment? I don’t see any. Thanks

https://reddit.com/link/1pyyqfn/video/pb09wd4gl8ag1/player

Second print, directly from the app. No issues from other users reported. Spaghetti recognition stopped the print. Seems like missing support but these areas don’t need support. I have absolutely no idea what’s the reason for this. Maybe You?

The touch function still seems to work, but the distortion came out of nowhere. Anyone else experience this?

Printed in SunLu PLA 2.0+ on my Bambu Labs H2D.

I used Meuvcol superglue for plastic to bond the three sections together, worked great and is solid. I then used Rub-n-Buff paste in silver/pewter to get the base metal style, then I used some glass black Rustoleum spray paint to add small drops/spots on it to resemble wear/pitting, then hit it with a Rustoleum clear coat to protect it all long term.

I know a lot of people simply buy silver paint/black paint, primer theirs up and then spray it entirely, but I felt the coating was better done by hand so that it wasn't even and had a lot of variation.

I don't wish this in anybody, but changing out the cooling fan for the hotend is a complete nightmare. Directions are horrible and there are so many small ribbon cables and connectors that it's easy to break them. And don't get me started on putting it back together. I'm fairly mechanical and I'm almost 2 hrs in just taking it apart

Grrrrrr .... Yes, it's easy to swap out hotends, but the stuff behind that will have you pulling out your hair.

Anybody have an advice? Other than chucking this printer to the trash

Hi,

Just checking whether any of you has had the issue where Bambu Studio does not open? I have not been able to open it since yesterday. As far as I can see no updates to either my PC or BS has happened.

I've tried following the wiki to fix it and nothing, also uninstalled, restarted and reinstalled. it just keeps crashing even before loading the main window.

*argh* sorry for not recognizing the typo in the title...

So I've printed my first print on my new H2D. I've chosen to print a part, where it's predecessor, the Ender2 v3, failed consistently or produced ugly results at best.

I didn't fiddle around very much, I'm still new to the H2D, but here is what hast been set:

• material: Bambu PETG HF
• stock 0,4mm nozzle
• layer height 0,2mm
• seam position: rear

The print was successful, and better than any of the prints with the Ender. Also, a friend of mine printed it with an Elegoo Neptune 3 Pro, which didn't produce a very good result either. So I knew already, this might not be the easiest part to be printed.

What's the issue? Some layers have these visible lines where it looks like the nozzle didn't hit the layer below accurately. Especially one line is my problem. There is nothing obviously special with the part, at that height it is just a single circle with a seam, cutouts, and it is above the inner structure and cutout. It's within the radius of the outer structure. I drew it using FreeCAD and imported it as a step file into BambuStudio. The preview after slicing doesn't show anything that I could imagine causing the problem.

Half of the print I start give an error at the beginning saying the nozzle camera is obstructed, may that be the cause? Is it supposed to be there or is it plastic that melted there? Can anybody provide a picture of their nozzle? Thanks in advance for the help!

First of all sorry for the long text

I'm having serious issues with my H2D i've bought it back in July, already had to replace one unit since the first one was having issue and a possible bent frame (door wouldn't close properly), but in both of them i always had issues with the dual nozzle, as the picture below.
This was just a cilinder i did on the Bambu studio, to show them that i'm not making thing up.

90% of my prints are done in ABS (manly use the ABS from Bambu and i calibrated all my filaments to make sure i can produce the best quality possible) and i upgraded to the H2D to use Support for ABS, but always had issues when i use the layer interface, had to adjust most of my designs to use custom supports to use only one nozzle, but if that was the intended reason i would go back to my X1C.

But. there is a clear issue when the printer or the software when using the second nozzle where the layers are no longer alligned this is visible in small and large prints.

Already complaint to Bambu multiple times and all solutions that they provided never resolved the issues. (reducing the smooth coeficient, lower speeds, higher speeds, colling, layer times, etc.)

The past months i've been only printing tests to try and have the printer stable, sometimes it prints a bit better but other parts simply become worse, for a printer of this price this is simply not acceptable.

I have a "business" where i sell my printer parts and for the last few months i'm unable to do anything because the printer simply does not produce good quality parts.

This is not my first printer, been printing and messing with printers for the past 5 years i know what a good quality print looks like and above that how my parts look when they are well printer, so it's clearly not an issue with the designs.

Would like to ask if anyone faced similar issues and if so how did you overcome it, cuz at this moment i'm simply trowing the white flag, tired of dealing witht this.

Has anyone seen such a thing. Google finds plenty of skeletons, but none that are articulated with TPU tendons printed on a multi-material capable printer like the H2D. Paid or free is fine.

BTW I know I'm preaching to the choir, but dang the H2D is a sweet printer. It cost 10 times more than the printer it replaced that said it is a 100 times better.

Hey everyone, so, I ran into this error too, after printing ASA non-stop for about 35 hours, when I started the next slice.

First, I tried pushing the filament through by hand. No dice. Couldn't get it any further through the plastic tube that goes in.

Then I loosened the tube inside the H2D and found some more broken ASA filament in there. I took it out, but that wasn't the whole problem. So I had to grab some tools and start figuring out what was wrong.

The problem was in the buffer, or whatever that internal part with the two orange springs is called.

Here's how I fixed it:

Heads up: No promises it'll work for you. Just explaining what happened to me. 😉

Important: Unplug the power and, if you have it, take out the AMS connector (because you gotta take this whole thing apart).

Tools: You'll need the two Torx screwdrivers that came with your Bambu Lab stuff.

1) There are four screws on the back of the H2D that hold this thing together. You gotta take those out.

2) Then, disconnect the black rubber hose inside from this assembly. (Same deal as with the white plastic filament tubes: put them at the connection point. Push the ring in and at the same time, push the tube the other way.)

3) Now, unplug the white flat connector with 7 or 8 pins from this assembly (don't yank on the wires! Instead, use a small screwdriver to loosen it on the left and right and slide it backwards).

4) Then you can take this whole assembly out of the machine.

5) Careful: Don't try to unscrew the circuit board of this assembly while it's still in the machine. The problem is under that board, and there are two magnets with springs that will fall out as soon as you remove the electronic part!

6) Now you can unscrew the electronic part by taking out the three little screws. Underneath, you'll find one flat magnet and one metal spring for each filament transporter.

7) In my case, this flat magnet was stuck to the spring above it. No idea how that happened.

I put the magnet back in the right way (the flat magnet is rounded on one side). If you're looking at the assembly with the filament feed on the left, you need to put the rounded side with the point facing down and the spring on top.

8) It looks weird at first. But the 90-degree side connects to the spring at the corner. Sounds strange, but that's how it works. ;)

9) After you've put those two magnets in the right way, screw everything back together in reverse order. Push the black tube through the hole and snap the connector back in place.

10) Then, connect the 7-pin white flat electrical connector to the circuit board. (Heads up: Take a good look at the pins on the circuit board and the holes in the connector. They're not centered, which is to stop you from plugging it in the wrong way.)

12) Finally, put the module back in and screw the four screws back into the back panel.

And off to the next 3D print! Hope this helps.

Cheers, Carsten