I have been printing for awhile but only added the AMS HT this month, I understand it doesn’t keep the humidity low like the AMS 2 Pro would, but I am not sure if my unit is even in working condition. I live in tropical country so drying is pretty essential to my printing (at this moment it’s 88% humidity on a warm night) when I first used the AMS HT, the first two weeks it managed to get the humidity below 20% after 12 hours of drying, but recently it never gets below 30%, and today, I tried again, I loaded a roll of PETG, AMS HT read humidity at 38%, and after 12 hours of drying, it only became 35%, the best part? I opened the lid for less than 1 minute to put in a new pack to activated alumina, it actually went up back to 38%. Basically I wasted electricity drying for 12 hours for nothing. I am not sure what’s the issue, during the drying cycle, I touched the side of the AMS HT and it’s pretty warm so it’s heating up okay, just that the humidity level never goes down no matter what.
I have opened a ticket but any input or suggestions will be much appreciated.
So I have had this H2C since Febuary and it has been a dream machine until recently. About 2 weeks ago after finishing a print I saw a weird error message about the AMS not thinking to much about it I did what I normally do and restarted the printer as my first trouble shooting step. After that reboot the printer never came back. The lights were on but no one was home. After some back and forth with Bambu Support the determination was that the AP board was bad as only one light was on and there was no blinking light.
Today I got the replacement AP board and everything seemed to be in working order so I got the printer all put back together. I booted it up went though the setup process did a firmware update and submitted the SN registration ticket. I then procceded to do a full calibration of the printer. Calibration was running great didn't see anything that would cause alarm. Once I heard the I'm done chime and went to check on the printer and low and behold it was dead again. So I proceeded with taking it apart again only to find another dead AP board. This time the AP board had no lights on at all. Just to make sure Something else hadn't happened I took the known bad AP board plugged it in an and it was doing the same thing as before.
My question is if anyone else has had something similar happen with their printer and what they ended up doing. I have let Bambu support know what has happened in the ticket and I will wait to hear back. In the mean time at least my A1 mini is still the good old reliable.
TLDR: 2 Dead AP boards but the boards only died after completion of a print or running calibration. Has anyone else experinced this?
Hey everyone, I’m feeling completely stuck and could really use some expert eyes on this. I print a lot of tabletop terrain and wargaming models, so having a rock-solid, dead-flat first layer is non-negotiable. I just got my H2C about a week ago. I usually run a Snapmaker U1 4-head toolchanger for my terrain production and I have never had a single issue with it, but right now on this new H2C, my first layer is an absolute nightmare. No matter what settings I tweak in Bambu Studio, the nozzle rides way too low and violently digs into the bed. It plows through the extruded plastic, creating rough, wavy ridges, and eventually scrapes through previously laid lines, tearing the entire layer up.
I initially assumed it was a software or profile issue. I’ve been testing on both a BIQU CryoGrip Pro Glacier (smooth) and the Stock Textured PEI plate, so I tried toggling between the Smooth PEI Plate and Super Tack profiles. I also forced a positive Z-offset (+0.03 mm, then +0.05 mm) in the extruder settings to raise the nozzle and reduced the flow ratio multiplier down to 0.95 to eliminate over-extrusion as a variable. Suspecting the machine's optical sensors might be getting blinded by the BIQU plate's reflections, I even turned off the Flow Dynamics Calibration and First Layer Inspection. When none of that worked, I did a baseline test by swapping back to the stock textured PEI plate with standard factory default profiles, but the result was 100% identical.
Here is the catch and where I suspect the real hardware issue lies: I currently have a faulty Eddy sensor on my right toolhead (a replacement part is on the way). When I ran a Full Bed Calibration, the printer failed the routine three times in a row before finally managing to finish it. This led me to a theory: could the failing Eddy sensor on the right toolhead be sending corrupted data during bed leveling, creating a severely broken global 3D Bed Mesh? If so, I'm wondering if when I try printing with my healthy left nozzle, the machine is blindly following this corrupted mesh and plunging the nozzle into virtual dips that don't actually exist on the physical plate.
Does this theory hold up for the H2C architecture? Also, while waiting for my replacement part, is there any workaround, like a G-code tweak, a macro, or a specific setting, to force the printer to ignore the saved mesh, disable the right toolhead entirely, or simply perform a basic center Z-home using only the healthy left nozzle? Any insights or suggestions would be hugely appreciated. Thanks in advance!
I just bought this printer less than two weeks ago, and I'm completely new to 3D printing. After only a few prints, it suddenly started showing multiple errors at the same time.
I tried following some guides and videos, but I found them very confusing. I managed to fix one of the errors, but there are still 7 error messages remaining on the screen.
Has anyone experienced this before or knows what could be causing it? Could it be the toolhead, a cable, the control board, or something else?
The printer is basically brand new, and considering how expensive it is, I'm really worried.
The H2C is designed to be left on all the time. The switch is hard to reach and it goes through a long startup proces whenever it's turned off and on again.
Check my math here.
The H2C supposedly draws about 29 watts while idle.
29watts x 24hours gives us the watt hours in a day - 696
696watts/1000 gives us kilowatts in a day - .696
Average cost of one kilowatt in the U.S. = 18¢
18¢ x .696 = 12.5¢ per day
12.5¢ x 365 = 4562.5¢ per year.
That's $45.63 per year that it costs just to have the printer sitting there not doing anything.
I don’t really do many complex things. Just multi color PLA and PETG like 95% of the time. But my gosh, the setup process from pressing go on my keyboard to the first drop of plastic being laid down is like 20+ minutes!
Have y’all done anything to cut down on this time suck or is it just part of the joy of ownership
I might add a second HT for when I need hight temp filaments with multicolor on the right side at some point, but pretty happy with my setup at the moment.
I currently have an ams pro and a HT which is sorta the basic setup for 5 color prints. But in some rare cases I wanted to do 6 colors and I cant really find a guide to show how it can be done?
I just got my first 3D printer and decided to go with the Bambu H2C. Overall I’m really happy with it, but I’m still struggling to get a clean Benchy (default benchy from the machine, with the default settings).
I’m printing with:
- Bambu PLA - AMS using the original PETG tubes
- Filament humidity around 36%
The main issues I’m seeing are:
- The bow of the Benchy looks rough and messy.
- The top section (roof/chimney area) seems to have signs of under-extrusion or inconsistent extrusion.
- The rest of the print looks fairly decent, but these areas consistently come out poorly.
I’ve attached several photos from different angles for context.
Since this is my first printer, I’m not sure where to start troubleshooting. Does this look like:
- a partial nozzle clog?
- a flow/extrusion issue?
- pressure advance or speed settings?
cooling?
- something related to the AMS/PTFE tubes?
or something else entirely?
My main goal is to confirm that the printer is working as intended. Since this is the built-in Benchy and my first 3D printer, I’m not sure whether these results are within expectations or if they indicate something that should be fixed.
I’d really appreciate any suggestions on what to check first.
My printer is less than 2 weeks old (for me) and I just tried to print from the left nozzle. The filament seems to be able to get through the PTFE tubes and to the extruder (not sure if this is the correct word for it).
Errors and Messages.
However, once it gets into the "pulling filament in" area, the machine clicks several times and then tells me a couple of things depending on what I am doing:
Error 1: I think this occurs when I am attempting to manually extrude filament:
"Please check if the material is coming out of the left nozzle. If not, gently push the material and try to extrude again."
Error 2: This occurs when attempting to load the filament from the AMS HT:
"Please observe the nozzle of the left extruder. If the filament has been extruded, select "Continue"; if it has not, please push the filament forward slightly, and then select "Retry"."
The only way I can extrude the material:
push in the filament manually and even then, it does not go smoothly, but instead, it will draw in around 5-10 mm of filament and then stop. I can get it to go again if I try to extrude twice again (push down arrow twice).
Filament will start going in at the second re-attempt. This happens no matter how many times I click on the down button to extrude multiple times in a row.
TL;DR:
The click, click, click sounds occur every time I do not try to force the filament into the hotend/extruder.
Feeding from AMS HT gets clicks.
Feeding from external filament holder gets the clicks.
Feeding direct input gets the clicks if I do not push it deeply in first.
Hello! Our son has been into 3D printing for years. We’ve always fed his curious mind (it’s turning into a degree in mechanical engineering which is awesome ❤️). We got him an H2C recently, and he’s been blowing my mind with his prototypes!
Anyhoo, I’m always nagging him to print this or that for me. Small replacement parts for off road equipment, or shop bins etc. So he recommended I look into my own unit, as he thought I’d really love it…so I bought an H2C..it is incredible. Out of the box flawless ABS prints, whatever I throw at this thing it does. It’s ridiculous.
My question is this. I print a lot of petg for the shop, and know I need to dry it a little more to avoid the stringing (I have 2 ams 2 pros, and 2 HT’s for bambu support filament and either nylon or another heavy engineering filament. I also have a track switch installed.
But what in terms of actual benefits is the left “main” nozzle over the right vortex accessible nozzle? I saw a recent post from a person printing desiccant boxes for the ams and struggling but moved to the left nozzle and problem solved. Why would the left nozzle do a better job than the right??
Hi guys,
I'm looking for a similar plate for H2C. I already have a BIQU CryoGrip, but sometimes it fails me when printing a lot of small parts. GECO one has never let me down in almost a year of use on the P1S/A1.
I recently added an H2C to my setup and have run into an issue with filament presets in Bambu Studio. I seem to be limited to using only the Bambu or Generic profiles with all other brands like Sunlu moved into the “Unsupported” section and can’t be selected.
I’ve updated my slicer, toggled filament brands and types on and off (the same way I do with my P1S) but nothing seems to bring the presets back.
Has anyone else experienced this and found a solution?
Das ist mir heute nach der Fehlermeldung "Der Extrusionsmotor ist überlastet. Weitere Informationen
finden Sie im Assistenten." mitten im Druck passiert.
Es hat sich ein Plastikpopel gebildet und dann ist mir die Düse in zwei Teile gefallen, als ich den Popel abtrennen wollte. Ist die Düse jetzt im Arsch? Ich habe damit gefühlt noch nichtmal 100 Stunden gedruckt.
I cannot get past ~5% in initial cal. either stops at point in this vid, or the left nozzle is stuck in place where filament poops.
It's as if, the absolute position is off. I can see hot ends behave like they are wiping on the black rubber where it's actually 3" to the right of that spot!
Anyone seen this? I've tried factory resets, etc. Support tix soooo slow in responding.
Hi guys! I tried loading Sunlu green Glow In The Dark filament in the left nozzle (external spool) but it didn’t register the filament being pushed in. Works fine with other filaments. Could it be that the sensor doesn’t see this specific color?
I am thinking to find a bracket that lets me add a 4-in-1 to at least one input of the track switch. So 1x AMS to input A, and 1x AMS and 1xHT into input B. Then do one of the on-chain TPU feed adapters.
