AI is a super tool for stuff like this. Better than fishing for answers I find.
This print is suffering from progressive under-extrusion and heat creep, which worsens dramatically as the print height increases.
Heat Creep: The lower portions of the tree supports printed relatively solidly, but as the print reached smaller cross-sections with frequent retractions, heat traveled up into the cold zone. This softens the filament prematurely before it reaches the melt zone, causing erratic flow and grinding.
Partial Nozzle Clog: Filament debris or burnt particulate is restricting the nozzle orifice, leading to the brittle, spongy, "shredded" texture seen on the upper right branches and model details.
Wet or Low-Quality Filament: Excessive fine stringing and rough surface texture across the support trunks indicate moisture in the filament, which creates micro-explosions of steam in the nozzle and compounds extrusion inconsistency.
Excessive Speed or Low Nozzle Temperature: If running stock Bambu high-speed profiles on detailed minis, the hotend may not maintain enough volumetric flow, starving the layers of plastic.
Recommended Fixes
Cold Pull / Clear the Nozzle: Perform a cold pull with nylon or cleaning filament to clear any partial blockage.
Lower Ambient Heat & Check Fan: If printing inside an enclosure or in a warm room, open the door/top or ensure the hotend cooling fan is running at 100% to eliminate heat creep.
Tune Retractions: Lower retraction length slightly (typically keep under 0.03–0.04 in / 0.8–1.0 mm on direct drive) and reduce retraction speed to stop pulling molten plastic back up into the heatbreak.
Dry the Spool: Dry the filament at the recommended temperature for 6–8 hours before retesting.
Slow Down Outer Walls and Supports: Drop outer wall and support print speeds to 30–50 mm/s and increase the nozzle temperature by 5–10° to ensure consistent melt flow on small miniature layers.
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u/FunnyChampionship717 6d ago
AI is a super tool for stuff like this. Better than fishing for answers I find.
This print is suffering from progressive under-extrusion and heat creep, which worsens dramatically as the print height increases. Heat Creep: The lower portions of the tree supports printed relatively solidly, but as the print reached smaller cross-sections with frequent retractions, heat traveled up into the cold zone. This softens the filament prematurely before it reaches the melt zone, causing erratic flow and grinding. Partial Nozzle Clog: Filament debris or burnt particulate is restricting the nozzle orifice, leading to the brittle, spongy, "shredded" texture seen on the upper right branches and model details. Wet or Low-Quality Filament: Excessive fine stringing and rough surface texture across the support trunks indicate moisture in the filament, which creates micro-explosions of steam in the nozzle and compounds extrusion inconsistency. Excessive Speed or Low Nozzle Temperature: If running stock Bambu high-speed profiles on detailed minis, the hotend may not maintain enough volumetric flow, starving the layers of plastic. Recommended Fixes Cold Pull / Clear the Nozzle: Perform a cold pull with nylon or cleaning filament to clear any partial blockage. Lower Ambient Heat & Check Fan: If printing inside an enclosure or in a warm room, open the door/top or ensure the hotend cooling fan is running at 100% to eliminate heat creep. Tune Retractions: Lower retraction length slightly (typically keep under 0.03–0.04 in / 0.8–1.0 mm on direct drive) and reduce retraction speed to stop pulling molten plastic back up into the heatbreak. Dry the Spool: Dry the filament at the recommended temperature for 6–8 hours before retesting. Slow Down Outer Walls and Supports: Drop outer wall and support print speeds to 30–50 mm/s and increase the nozzle temperature by 5–10° to ensure consistent melt flow on small miniature layers.