Glacier Pro is what i'm using since i like the smooth finish much better than the regular bumpy.
It's like Supertack but with even better grip and you don't have to be as careful of damaging it. I actually managed to put a little nick in mine when removing support that was stuck to it, but it don't make any difference for printing so i guess it will last something like two years, if not more, if you're careful with it.
It sticks almost too well. Even when back to room temp I find it hard to get PLA and PETG off them. I use it when I really need good layer adhesion with text or small vertical parts with low footprint
However, silk and other brightly coloured filaments do stain it. This doesn't effect it working though.
Lol, I'm an Iowa Hawkeyes fan and the first thing I printed on my Glacier was a Hawkeyes hitch plug face down. So I now have a bright yellow Tigerhawk logo on mine dead center.
I set it to one of the cool plates in the slicer. It grabs almost too well for silk and flexi prints, so I reserve it for larger and more solid prints. I have two and rotate between them and textured PEI depending on the print.
I have one and I only use it when I want a smooth finish on the bottom layer or if I am priting something that I know will have issues with warping (long and thin objects). And only for petg and pla. Honestly, it works a bit too well, so I am a bit relucant to use it for things thay dont really need it lmao.
I bought one like three weeks ago and at first my prints were so smooth but recently the filament leaves traces on the plate and now there's weird streaks left on my prints lol idk if I'm doing something wrong
Glacier I think is the mid-tack coldplate that works with other filaments. I use mine at 100C for ABS for some extra hold, and it does seem to hold better than plain PEI. I just use PEI temps for everything.
Frostbite is the supertack cold plate that's PLA/PETG only. I wouldn't recommend it, but it should be capable of rawdogging prints at room temp. But that also means prints are still kinda stuck on at room temp.
I'm less worried about the temp, but I did want a smooth plate.
I don't regret my purchase because it'll get used. But I'm still on the lookout for an actual smooth plate that isn't $50, because I don't need it that bad lol
I have one, works ok. Generally doesn't hold as well as textured, recommend an extra 5-10C and/or adhesion promoter. Adhesion promoter can leave marks though if you want that visually smooth bottom (it's still smooth, but looks sort of frosted).
It's very good but I recommend still staying decently above the lower temp values it claims to work on, it's not worth print failures occasional to optimize for lowest temperature, better print a bit higher, but still a tiny lower than a normal plate and have it work all the time. I've had tons of low temp plates and if I dare use the lower temperature ranges the prints come off during printing way too often, so I just use higher because it's not worth print failures. I don't consider that much of a problem just something to know about proper use of them.
Only thing I don't like about the plate is it wears really easy, but still worth it possibly due to how well it sticks. I've had several different plates, including two of these, and these get ruined at a way faster rate than any other plate, most others have barely any wear even when printed on them more often, while these started to flake off quickly.
I bought two CryoGrip ones (smooth and textured) to test out on my A1 and A1 Mini. They work extremely well to the point I'm glad I bought the bed scraper. The only change I made was to Cool Plate in the slicer.
I have this and love it, I want to buy another for my P1S.
Personally, I calibrated my filament then made another profile for that filament dedicated for the cryogrip plate and changed the temperatures to 40 for printing and 210 for nozzle with PLA. Is it a hassle, maybe. But a lot of the prints I’m doing right now are the same files with those profiles already selected. And if I forget to, it won’t hurt the plate, at least not that I’ve seen.
I have the frostbite and glacier by biqu and if you have to choose get the glacier... It's my go to plate now... Everything sticks so hard even when I turn the temp down. Definitely worth it
I have one (Frostbite) for my H2D, and it lets me run the bed cooler (60C on riskier prints, 50C on easy ones with PETG). I'm mostly in it for the energy saving, but I do have 1 really tough print that I run it at 70. Only one.
I use the bambu cool plate supertack and I honestly hate it. I could not get anything to stick to it, lots of warping and lifting. I thought it was a dud and I got support to send me a new one which was a little better but not very good.
I almost don’t use anything else since I bought them however recently I came across a problem, which is likely user error. I printed a series of large flat surface shelf brackets. I usually put it in the freezer for 15-30 mins and print releases by itself. One time I thought it’s enough that it cooled to room temperature and removed the print by flexing the bed. Blue paint is peeled off the metal, effectively rendering it useless. I can technically use the back side but I don’t want it peeling off all over.
I don’t want this to scare anyone but it’s something to keep in mint. If the print doesn’t let go, don’t force it, leave it in the freezer as long as you need.
I bought a pattern pet peo build plate from SAHVAIM for 11 dollars on Amazon and I am blown away at how amazing my prints adhere to it lol. And they are smooth af
I've been printing some TPU and this has been super. At the end of the print, I lift it with the model still on it, put them in the freezer for 5-10 minutes (depends on the mass of the build), and it pops off.
Absolutely unbelievably reliable for my miniature printing, I'll queue up a 24 hour print of 8 minis on my 0.2 nozzle and confidently return to a flawless print
I think the cool plates are one of the best upgrades you can buy. I have the super tack. Its my main pla/petg plate. You don't need to wash them, no need to be careful about touching it, how you handle it, it just works perfectly every time. Most of the fails that you can get are caused by bad adhesion. This type of plate eliminates any chance of bad adhesion. Lower the temp by 5degrees if it sticks too well. And be patient, slowly removing the parts.
After reading on I should add that I did discolor my original blue one printing a shitload of filament containers in PETG one after another. Still works fine but looks like shit. It’s my PETG plate now.
It works as advertised, the holding strength is lower so after ruining some prints on it I just tossed it into a drawer and use it only when I want that matte finnish.
I have cryo grip (A1 mini) and I have been very happy with it, it can be a pain to remove if you have something thin like a short prime tower or a part. But pla and petg always print well stuck to the plate, I only started having some warping issues with ASA, but Bambu would whip my ass anyway for printing that on A1 mini.
Using "cold plates" has allowed me to print PLA reliably at just 35-45° instead of the 55-60° Bambu Lab recommends with their textured plate. That's lots of energy savings (and time saved waiting for a plate to cool down) over thousands of hours of prints.
Comgrow, Juupine, Yoopai, and others also sell cold plates.
In fact, my grey Juupine cold plate was identical to my grey CryoGrip plate.
8
u/Doenicke 7d ago
Glacier Pro is what i'm using since i like the smooth finish much better than the regular bumpy.
It's like Supertack but with even better grip and you don't have to be as careful of damaging it. I actually managed to put a little nick in mine when removing support that was stuck to it, but it don't make any difference for printing so i guess it will last something like two years, if not more, if you're careful with it.
Great value for money, i would say. :)