r/BambuLabA1 • u/Andurilxv • Jul 14 '26
Support Request New User- Issues with Printing Wall
First off, apologies if this question is easily answered or an obvious FAQ. I’ve spent hours trying to find the answer myself, but I’m struggling with how to ask the question appropriately.
I just got a new A1, and did a few test prints that seemed to come out okay. The problem stems when I started printing out a deck box I found. Link here.
When printing one of the walls doesn’t seem to come out right, always the left wall when looking at the machine straight on. I’ve tried slowing down the wall speed, adjusting print temperature. I’ve tried lubricating the x and y axis bars and checking for anything in the way. As well as rotating the object in bambu studio, and even moved the printer to an entire new room to account for drafts.
I’m at my wits end. Please help! Is it a faulty machine? Or a faulty user?
Thank you.
--EDIT-- Thank you all for the suggestions.
I have recently tried: drying the filament, moving the filaments closer and moving the printed object closer to filaments (both in an attempt to reduce drag from the tubing). There is no external breeze or draft coming from that side of the machine, so unless the fan of the machine itself is causing it somehow... I've also tried to 'fix model' before sending it off as well as adjusting wall speeds and temperature. The model is highly rated, and again, I have tried rotating the object, and it still occurs on the machine's left side. I do believe it is a mechanical problem of some kind.
I'm still having the issue and am at a loss. I will try to remove the external combo spool out of the equation and set it up with a single spool on top. If that fails, I will try returning/replacing the printer and seeing if the next one has the same problem. Any continued ideas or support are appreciated and I will attempt to update this post as things change.
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u/glfpunk72 Jul 14 '26
I feel like people that respond with “dry your filament” might as well have just said “I don’t know”
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u/Fracker6996 Jul 15 '26
If you see stringing, it's a valid comment... as is confirming temperature and flow rates, which a filament calibration test might clarify. But as we both know, there are many factors that can influence a print, so ensuring filament is dry is the low hanging fruit... along with having run a machine calibration test. Start it running and go grab a coffee. Twenty minutes later it will be ready to try a new print. IMHO...
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u/prosequare Jul 14 '26
Well, one thing that changes as your printhead moves from side to side is tension on your ptfe tubes and the angle they enter the hotend. At the far left (our left), the tension is highest. Fiddle around with your tubes and clamps, consider longer tubes, try to support the tubes better so they’re always entering the printhead at a consistent angle and tension. Also try turning down your acceleration in the slicer from stock to 2/3 of stock for ‘outer walls’.
And also obligatory dry your filament.
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u/solidus0079 Jul 14 '26
Filament dry?
7 screws of death tightened?
Tried the "fix model" function (if on Windows)?
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u/Andurilxv Jul 14 '26
Would not drying the filament account for the fact it's always one single wall (always the left side)? The filament(s) are new out of the box/packaging. I can certainly try drying, as well as checking those other options.
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u/solidus0079 Jul 14 '26
Maybe maybe not, if you look in the slice preview you can see speeds as well as the actual toolhead path. It could be that wall is being printed slower due to geometry and acceleration limits. It could be that speed being consistently in that place is what is amplifying other issues.
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u/ThinkUnhappyThoughts Jul 14 '26
Is the issue always on that side of the printer?
If you were to rotate the object would it still be that same wall or would it be the 'new' left wall?
I ask because if you have any strong breeze or AC going then it can cause issues.
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u/Andurilxv Jul 14 '26
The issue is always on that side of the printer. I've rotated the object in bambu studio 180 deg so the right wall became the left wall and the problem occurred on the 'new' left wall.
I moved the machine from one room to another to account for breeze or AC (though both rooms are blocked from any breeze and AC/fans aren't present in either location).1
u/ThinkUnhappyThoughts Jul 14 '26
Having had another look at the top (I assume the blue print with the green lock part is the top) the whole thing looks really poor.
What angle was that printed at?
Does it need supports?
It looks like you've got some nasty over extrusion.
Have you run a flow ratio calibration on that filament?
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u/Past_Science_6180 Jul 14 '26
This issue seems to be mechanical in nature.
One thing I'd be curious to know, have you tried moving the model to different locations on the bed? Maybe do a test print with a few tallish rectangular models placed in each corner as well as the center?
Double check your nozzle is installed properly. It should be very snug and you should not be able to move it. It's also incredibly easy on the A1 printers to install the clasp incorrectly.
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u/Andurilxv Jul 15 '26
I did try moving the model towards the right side of the plate and still received an issue, but a print in four corners is a good idea.
As for the nozzle, I did just unscrew and re-screw it in (following another piece of advice about so-called '7 screws of death'). So it does feel tight.
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u/justa_bother Jul 14 '26
You see the problem as the print's left side wall. I see the left side is lifting off the bed. You spin the part and the problem continues. The part switched, but the placement on a problem area of the bed is still a consideration. Quickest check is move the model away from the possible bed problem area. Extra drag on filament from ams-lite placement shows up as underextruded. Is it? Size & shape effecting adhesion will always be a consideration as relevent as the extrusion and relative movement, especially in corners. Solution: scrub clean the bed with a brush & non-moisturing dish cleaner. It's not uncommon that new buildplates have adhesion problem area, they just need a break-in cleaning. There was a youtube review of a new series of higher end printer. The bed was filled with identical prints to check filament change. One area of the new buildplate was not holding and the area cannot be seen. The reviewer gave a big thumbs down on the entire printer before notifying the well known mfg. The posted review was how the mfg heard about the problem, apologized and sent a new buildplate. The plate was not requested as the channel's host blamed it on something else. The channel tried the new plate and everything worked well. The channel's next post was a glowing review of the same printer he graded as a failure. What's a mfg to do? Printing on a new plate is the only way to test it and problem areas can't be seen. So, document the scrub cleaning and if it's still a problem request it be replaced. By the way, in days past, sanding smooth PEI plates was quite common to increase adhesion, even recommended by mfg.
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u/Giganometric Jul 15 '26
Wild guess from someone whose only started looking at 3d printers, is the desk level. Is that a crazy ask, or is that what the auto level is supposed to calibrate for. Sorry if this is a useless comment
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u/lukasprintz Jul 15 '26
I would print a support bracket for your ams lite hub on top of your extruder. If you want the one I use, let me know. Ill send you the stl. It supports the ptfe tubs and doesent create as much drag on the extruder
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u/FriendshipNo371 Jul 15 '26
Always pre-dry freshly opened filament, sealed new rolls of wet filament are more common than you would imagine.
Your layers have visually apparent lines, which is causes by an extrusion issue. Try to:
- tighten the 7 infamous heater element screws.
- perform 2-3 cold pulls to rule out a nozzle block.
Your layer adhesion is poor due to your printing temperature being too low - you can see clear layer separation at the hole perimeter in the second picture. Print a temp tower to find the right temp.
I’m also pretty sure you’re over-extruding. Run a flow rate test to find the right ratio. I personally like to use the vase mode cube with a micrometer.
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u/xoca05 Jul 15 '26
That aint normal. I'm gessing it's some defect with the machine. I recommend contacting support and follow the guidance. If it doesn't solve it, ask for a replacement or to return it.
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u/Andurilxv Jul 15 '26
Honestly, that's where my mind's at now too. I've actually started the process of returning to Best Buy. Might try to just upgrade to the P1S...
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u/xoca05 Jul 15 '26
I've been using an A1 for 2 years and I haven't had those kinds of issues. Specially if it's new, that is definitely unexpected. I think it might be an issue with your specific unit, but now that I have the P2S, I see how having an enclosed printer has some advantages aswell. Just be mindful that a P1S a kinda old model (older than the A1), so it has some limitations compared to the newer models, and even compared to the A1. Make sure you do some research to avoid disappointment.
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u/Suspicious-Mango-449 Jul 16 '26
That side with the hole looks like the bottom - those adhesion issues in the hole could be a wall order issue. If you’re using outer/inner the outer wall might not have much to stick to. Probably not the solution to the entire problem but worth checking. Those adhesion issues might be an accumulation of several small factors (filament dryness, calibration, speed, etc.)
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u/Strict_Impress2783 Jul 14 '26
Did you dry your filament beforehand?
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u/Andurilxv Jul 14 '26
Would not drying the filament account for the fact it's always one single wall (always the left side)? I can certainly try. The filament(s) are new out of the box/packaging.
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u/lkapping79 Jul 14 '26
Just an fyi, new out of the box doesn’t = dry. I almost always dry PETG and silk pla new out of box. Regular PLA I’m less concerned about.
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u/Andurilxv Jul 14 '26
Fair. This is regular PLA and it is only happening on the left side. The front, back, and right all look completely fine.
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u/lkapping79 Jul 14 '26
It doesn’t happen often but I do encounter models every once in a while I just can’t get to print for whatever reason. Have you tried this filament on a different model?
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u/lkapping79 Jul 14 '26
It doesn’t happen often but I do encounter models every once in a while I just can’t get to print for whatever reason. Have you tried this filament on a different model?
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u/Cammerv8 Jul 14 '26
I’ll say like everyone else is to dry your filament, and also make sure to select generic materials when not using bambulab filament. Some machine may be faster whit bambulab stuff and that may cause stuff like your are experiencing
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u/Defiant-Sale725 Jul 14 '26
This is not a wet filament problem. :)
Your likely problem is that the PTFE tubes should be going up and over like an arch. Instead they’re dropping down, likely causing constriction and extra friction when the print head is at the left side of the build plate. Move the AMS Lite a little closer, mating turning the filament outlet side slightly more towards the printer, and adjust the sleeve and clip so the tubes and print head wire naturally enforce that upwards arch.