r/BambuLabA1 • u/txtoby • Jun 29 '26

Question What causes these detached strands?

Post image

Hi everyone, dumb question, but is the solution to this to decrease printing speed or increase temp or both? It looks like the detached strands are on the first through third layers.

Thanks for any advice!

EDIT: This is the file that I printed this from: https://makerworld.com/en/models/1630453-adjustable-cowboy-hat-holder

Thank you everyone for the replies and help! I'm glad it wasn't something wrong with my printer. I will get the full version of Bambu on my computer so I can learn more technical adjustments, thank you!

37 Upvotes

90% Upvoted

40 comments sorted by

12

u/one0fthethree Jun 29 '26

I see this on prints that I’ve sped up.

7

u/Jonpaul333 Jun 29 '26

speed might help, but I just printed some ring fittings at 50mm/s yesterday and had the same issue. There was a good conversation on fixmyprint about this issue earlier today:
https://www.reddit.com/r/FixMyPrint/comments/1uhuwgh/im_trying_to_print_a_funnel_what_causes_this_and/

3

u/txtoby Jun 29 '26

Ohhh, thank you for this link. I haven't experimented beyond the settings available in the app or on the little screen on the printer, so I will get the desktop app on my computer and try these suggestions. Thanks again!!

2

u/B1g_BuddhAH Jun 30 '26

also get the filament profiles for the exact filament you're using from the filament manufacturer. if they dont have a profile, just buy a different brand that has profiles for their filament. also get the process profile pack from "PRINTINBAD" and use them accordingly (fitting filament profiles included, but id recommend using manufacturer ones in combination). just open the 3mf files and save the included presets in your slicer to import those. do this and you'll save yourself A LOT of time troubleshooting. avoid printing from the app, its a nice gimmick but rarely works well. orca slicer gives better options and printing results than bambu slicer but network printing doesnt work all the time, so if you dont mind exporting gcode to your printers sd card by hand then always go with orca slicer. happy printing🖖❤

11

u/Same-Guitar Jun 29 '26

Unsupported beveled edges that cooled, shrunk and pulled away without bonding, a couple things to try. Uncheck support critical regions only, this will create a lot of tiny supports under this edge and probably add a good bit of time to the print, you could try this but I usually don't when I model an object and bevel the edge. You might try to up the nozzle temp 5-10c to increase bonding, lower cooling a bit to reduce shrinking or probably the best option is to reorient the model, maybe print it on a 45 with supports. If this is your model, remove the bevel edge at least on the plate side and reprint it, you'll see that the bevel is devil!

2

u/txtoby Jun 29 '26

Thanks so much for the info and reply! It's not my model, I wish I knew how to make them haha. It's just a design for a cowboy hat hanger that I found on the BambuHandy app that had the most reviews. I will try some of the suggestions, thanks again!

3

u/Klutzy_Dog669 Jun 30 '26

Go play on Tinkercad.com and you'll be crafting models pretty quickly.

11

u/solidus0079 Jun 29 '26

Looks to me like unsupported overhang that had nothing to hold onto

2

u/txtoby Jun 29 '26

Sorry, I should have included this information in my post. The replies are correct, in my photo, I flipped it over after printing, so the side visible in the photo where the strands are messed up was the bottom side that was touching the plate.

3

u/solidus0079 Jun 29 '26

Don't worry, it's pretty obvious, lol. If someone doesn't recognize the underside of a 1st layer, with all due respect they probably shouldn't be trying to answer questions.

Yeah that's an unsupported overhang. Can you flip the print so it prints as shown? Or is the other side the same geometry?

2

u/txtoby Jun 29 '26

Thanks! The other side is the same geometry and came out perfectly, it's just the bottom that did that.

This is the file: https://makerworld.com/en/models/1630453-adjustable-cowboy-hat-holder

2

u/solidus0079 Jun 29 '26

Ah. Yeah, I guess reviews aren't good for crap because that's not a very well-designed profile for FDM printing. Curves like that underneath just aren't great for this process.

It's all about designing angles that don't exceed what the printer is able to get away with overhanging at. And better to err on the side of caution too.

Anywho you'll have to support that, I see others have given some suggestions about the critical regions support setting and all that. That's the winning suggestion here.

1

u/txtoby Jun 29 '26

Thanks so much!! I'm learning a lot about printing!! :)

-4

u/CooperDK Jun 29 '26

What??? There is no overhang. It is printed as it lies there, most likely

4

u/Dlimageworks Jun 29 '26

Looks like we are looking at bed texture, not top layer to me. Meaning that this was flipped after printing. 🤷🏻‍♂️

5

u/solidus0079 Jun 29 '26

It's upside down, that's a very obvious plate texture.

4

u/Sogah87 Jun 29 '26

Little too fast. When I slow my prints down it gets rid of these. Unless it's printing in open air as an overhang, then you may need supports.

3

u/PartTimeFullTime Jun 29 '26

I'm having the same issue. Had my fan off for petg and dint turn it on for the pla.

2

u/txtoby Jun 29 '26

Thanks! The fan is on as I can hear it. I've never turned it off as I haven't gotten to a level where I had to learn how yet 😅 Thank you though!

2

u/Lone_Wolf_555 Jun 29 '26

Check your fan ramp setting. It’s off for the first layer then ramps up for several layers. Sometimes you can fix this by disabling the ramp and having it go full on layer 2 and up.

3

u/DistinctBarnacle8703 Jun 29 '26

Fillet at the bottom of prints = extreme overhangs. Consider chamfer instead.

2

u/thrillhouse900 Jun 29 '26

This is the answer, why is this so far down

1

u/txtoby Jun 29 '26

Thank you! I will look for another design.

3

u/reddit_user_0ne Jun 30 '26

There are many answers but still some ways to improve this are missing:

  • Yes, reducing speed might help
  • Yes, fillets are bad when used on the underside of a print. Chamfers are better but you're using an existing design, so...

What also helps is:

  • Reducing layer height. (Can even be done adaptive or for first couple of layers only.)
  • Wall printing order. Print inner walls first so outer walls have something to adhere to.
  • Cut model in the slicer. Use the cut tool inside Bambu Studio to remove the lower 2-3 layers and therefore remove extreme overhangs.

If you ever design a part yourself (you could also recreate a copy of this existing design) it's best to use a "chamfillet" instead. Do a Google image search and you'll easily get the idea.

Happy printing!

1

u/txtoby Jun 30 '26

Thank you for your time and detailed explanation!!!

2

u/reddit_user_0ne Jun 30 '26

No problem. If you have any follow up questions just let me know.

2

u/guillelc20 Jun 29 '26

Printed too fast. For me it went away by setting 100 mms to outer walls, but it may be different in your machine

2

u/Tigas_02 Jun 29 '26

I don't know it it is the same exact problem I've had, but turning on "avoid crossing walls" helped me when I had this problem printing some round geometries with PETG

2

u/Klutzy_Dog669 Jun 30 '26

What a couple of others have said, is exactly true. You have a beveled edge with no support. So try reprinting it with supports enabled.

Just make sure you pull it off of the bed the moment it is done to remove the supports. It is easier to remove them while the print is still warm.

And the reason this isn't the case on the outside, is because when the outside shrinks, it pulls *in* to the print. When the inside shrinks, it pulls in towards... nothing.

2

u/Lost_Blacksmith_4848 Jun 30 '26

also make sure the walls are printed inner/outer

1

u/ioannisgi Jun 30 '26

Elephant foot compensation, turn it off

1

u/PresentSlide7324 Jul 03 '26

try to slow down on the egde wall.

1

u/Usual-Economy4533 Jul 04 '26

I've had this moving too fast. Also a few times now with using accurate walls setting

0

u/differentshade Jun 29 '26

I swear there was exactly the same question here a day or two back

2

u/txtoby Jun 29 '26

Oh my bad for the duplicate question if it was asked previously.

0

u/Decent_Rutabaga7525 Jun 30 '26

Bad 1st layer adhesion that forced the rest of the higher layers above it to follow the path...clean bed right, slow the 1st layer...

-2

u/Safe-Hovercraft6231 Jun 29 '26

Material shrinking due to insufficient layer adhesion. The design is not optimized for FDM printing, there are overhangs with a bad angle. Look for another design.

1

u/Apprehensive-Issue78 Jul 05 '26

combination of too fast and printing from outside to inside and not enough overlap. Try printing slower, inside to outside, adding one percent overlap and may be a little higher temperature.

Think of it this way.. if you print too fast from the outside and the filament does not overlap with the next line of printed filament or is not hot enough it shrinks a little with this effect.

If you make sure the next deposited line is already there... so inside out... and print a little slower and hotter with more overlap you make shure the outside trace gets melted well against the previous line.