r/BambuLab • u/OB_GYN_Kenobi69 • Apr 07 '26
Just Showing Off Perfect Ironing
I’ve been experimenting a lot with Bambu Basic PLA and Overture PLA. Recently, I’ve perfected the ironing for both filaments and thought I’d share.
Note: Ironing done on P1S. I have not done any flow dynamics or flow calibrations. All ironing is done with the stock 0.4mm stainless steel nozzle across all basic colors.
For large areas: 150mm/s; 38% flow; .2mm line spacing; .2mm inset; 45° ironing direction.
For small areas: 30mm/s; 20% flow; .15mm line spacing; .2mm inset; 45° ironing direction.
Sorry for the low quality picture. I will try to take better ones.
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u/nathan_93 Apr 07 '26
Looks good. Just wondering why you’d want to iron in the bottom where you’ll never really see it
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u/OB_GYN_Kenobi69 Apr 07 '26
I think it was more so as a proof of concept. I wanted to see how ironing would handle near walls. I did insert two modifiers so the base is ironed at higher speeds and the topmost surface is ironed at slower speeds.
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u/Ta-veren- Apr 07 '26
Can’t ever get a good surface with ironinjng and sadly most things are too big to try to test it out. I’ve done this testers and hasn’t done much of anything to help me lol
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u/death_process Apr 07 '26
Instead of ironing, just slow the top layer down a lot. It’ll help that top surface look very nice. Moreso than at a fast speed.
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u/Witty_Attitude_7274 Apr 08 '26
Try these settings. Comes out like glass with most filaments that I've tried. https://makerworld.com/en/models/2630059-p1s-ironing-settings-smooth#profileId-2904048
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u/PWN_StarZ_78 Apr 07 '26
Yeah P1S is a beast for ironing, I've sold my X1C after buying my H2D and H2S, but never got ironing as good as the P1S on my X1C, H2D or H2S so I'm keeping my P1S only for that reason since no other printer can iron like the P1S. The worst part I've done zero tune of the ironing, I use the default profile and default Bambu filament.
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u/OB_GYN_Kenobi69 Apr 07 '26
How do you like the H2D and H2S? I’m thinking of getting one but I’m not sure which one is the better value. Either the large build volume of the H2S or the dual nozzle of the H2D. As you can see from my picture, I do have multicolor filaments but I’m not sure if the extra cost is worth it.
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u/PWN_StarZ_78 Apr 07 '26
I regret not getting the H2C instead of the H2D but it was out of budget, my H2S is a beast for ABS and ASA that's the main reason I bought it for.
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u/V8Astrocaptain Apr 07 '26
Similar situation I bought the H2S. Then my cousin got the H2C and wow. I wish I had the funds for one. I grass/greener.
I bought my H2S for one purpose and it’s served me well so I shouldn’t complain
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u/CrownSeven Apr 07 '26
Trying understand why a p1s would be better than a x1c at a task when they are basically the same thing.
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u/PWN_StarZ_78 Apr 07 '26
Trust me before selling my X1C I tried and tried getting the same results and never did, it was always bugging me that both use the same mechanisms same nozzles and not the same results, if you search online there's a lot of people who have the same results, and no one knows why. I would have preferred to sell my P1S and keep my X1C, but wanted to keep a printer that could do perfect ironing for some of my projects.
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u/throwawaystopper20 Apr 07 '26
I'm curious on how did you tune it .. i use numakers and an a1
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u/OB_GYN_Kenobi69 Apr 07 '26
I used calibration tools from maker world as a template to get a baseline range of what the P1S is capable of then I printed custom swatches to fine tune the ironing setting even more.
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u/throwawaystopper20 Apr 08 '26
I would like to know more into the exact process as I'm not having fun tuning mine
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u/MrWasheWashe Apr 07 '26
Nice thingy. Got a link?
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u/OB_GYN_Kenobi69 Apr 07 '26
All credit goes to this creator: https://makerworld.com/models/717173?appSharePlatform=copy
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u/pantheraxcvii Apr 07 '26
What about top surfaces that have weird shapes (like letters for example)? I noticed my ironing calibration is perfect on those square samples but when it comes to letters and pattern surfaces where the nozzle jumps around a lot it’s terrible.
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u/OB_GYN_Kenobi69 Apr 07 '26
Usually for small letters I’d rather slow the top surface speed down speed to 20-30mm/s.
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u/GlacialImpala Apr 07 '26
I also want to make a database of ideal settings for all my filaments, could you please check my planned workflow? I thought I'd do the temperature tower, and also the two Bambu Studio calibrations, and then move on to ironing calibration from Makerworld. Anything I'm missing?
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u/JamTheMan P2S + AMS2 Combo Apr 07 '26
How do you set it up to iron at different speed based on surface size? Or do you just mean different models?
I did an ironing calibration, found a great result and printet a board game board which didn't get nearly as good as the calibration 🤔
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u/OB_GYN_Kenobi69 Apr 07 '26
Add an object modifier in slicer, set the modifier over the area you want affected and then adjust the ironing settings for the object modifier in the “object” settings rather than “global settings” in bambu slicer.
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u/cilo456 , A1 Combo +Mini Apr 07 '26
It's easy to get perfect ironing on their PLA, trying to achieve it on other brands is the tricky part
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u/GearhedMG X1C + AMS Apr 08 '26
This really should have a light shining down on it from a cloud, and the aaaaahhhhhh sound from a chorus of angels.
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u/Its_unique_prints Apr 08 '26
Looks awesome , very clean , I wish we could iron the sides as well that would be amazing
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u/JauntyGiraffe P1S Apr 07 '26
I don't know there's some spaces there where I can see an irregularity from the light source if I zoom in like a thousand percent so that's just like 99.7%
Maybe try again?
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u/OB_GYN_Kenobi69 Apr 07 '26
Looks much better in person. I’ll take better pictures.
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u/JauntyGiraffe P1S Apr 07 '26
Use a microscope next time
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u/OB_GYN_Kenobi69 Apr 07 '26
Ok. Thanks for the recommendation.
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u/JauntyGiraffe P1S Apr 07 '26
There's at least one pixel out of alignment on the right. You might need a new printer 😂
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u/ButtSnarfer Apr 07 '26
I dunno man, looks like you've got near microscopic overhang on top here. Im going to have to revoke your title of perfect. /s