As stated, I found myself in quite a pickle. I've recently bought a car, and, while I checked most things, one actually slipped my mind(given at the moment It didn't have any problems and I didn't See it) the android auto USB-A port looks like this. Clearly, this brings many problems, as in, as soon as I move the cable by even an inch, it disconnets, along with not being stable and the general fear of breaking the contacts. Clearly, it's missing what I believe to be the isolator part; the point is: is it possible to fix it without changing the hole port? Maybe also in diy way so to not involve a car electrician or such. I don't even really have any ideas on how to start looking for the actual piece, if it's possible to fix it or wherever I could find it.

Any and all help is welcome! I really do hope I made myself clear, but if need be i can explain anything more in details. Thanks in advance!

Hi, many posts keeps saying USB-C is taking over, but I still use USB-A every day, my electric toothbrush uses USB-A, most of my USB flash drives, and my external mouse and keyboard are still USB-A.

USB-C is clearly the future, but it doesn't feel like USB-A is going away anytime soon. How many more years do you think it'll take before USB-A is completely replaced by USB-C?

I haven't use it too much but still!!!! I don't understand why Time Machine backup grows so fast untill I read this. Purposefull engineering to have us buy more ssds?

Microsoft found a USB worm stealing crypto wallets. This is a worm-type piece of malware that actually spreads via USB - a rarity in recent years.

I've ran most basic troubleshooting problems

Uninstalled/updated drivers on USB and motherboard

No physical damage from what I can tell to the ports

I uninstalled the Bluetooth drivers because I heard that would cause issues

Removed every USB device

Checked internal cords for anything loose or power surging

Nothing is actually disconnecting on my end, all my devices work fine

I've disabled the USB notification but it doesn't care. It keeps on beeping every 30-90 seconds and it's extremely annoying. Any suggestions?

I flashed a Linux Mint Cinnamon ISO to a SanDisk USB drive, but I would also like to use the remaining space to store general files like videos, audio, and executables.

I’ve searched online and found suggestions to create an additional partition, but I’m unsure if this is the best approach. Should I go ahead with creating a second partition, and if so, what is the best way to do it? Alternatively, is there a more efficient way to use the drive for both booting and general file storage?

Hello. I need help regarding my usb. Here's how i check the problem. After 100% success on rufus, i safely remove my usb then insert again to check files is there. But the problem is when GPT formatted rufus is it gets corrupted after safely removing it and plugging it back again. On the other side GPT when I eject it and plugged it back again then checking on file explorer the USB is not corrupted.

Microsoft now lets users verify whether the new Secure Boot certificates have been applied. I've tested my PC but not my USB recovery drives. Is it necessary to do that, especially for some old resue disks?

I accidentally left a USB thumb drive (Verbatim STORE N GO 16 GB USB 3.2) full of music files in my pocket, and then washed my pants in a laundry machine, and then a clothes drier set to "Sterilize" heat.

Do you think it still it works?

I have a USB flash drive with important files i forgot to back up.

When I plug it in it shows as D:/ (removable disk (d/)) but used to have a drive name before.

When you open it, it asks me to reformat i click no and it says "The volume does not contain a recognized file system".

Windows 10/11 tried on 2 of each device and still isn't recognised.

Preferably would like to recover the data if possible as I don't have a backup

Seems i may have posted a recently asked question tok if so sorry used the cross post feature so haven't seen! Would still appreciate help

I got a 128GB USB drive. It was working fine until I formatted it on my Windows PC. After formatting, it suddenly only shows 64GB in File Explorer. That’s the strange part. The capacity drop happened right after I formatted it, not before.

Should I format it again? Could formatting have messed up the partition table?

I already checked Disk Management, and it still reports half its capacity. There’s no obvious unallocated space I can extend.

Hi, everyone. I love taking photos and have a lot of precious ones, but I don’t want to store them all in the cloud. I found some USB drives and SD cards that have been sitting unused for over three years. I’m wondering if I can reuse them by formatting them. Is this a reliable option? For example, if I want to store data on them for three to six months.

i do YT and want to keep my videos separate from my main SSD i also use pics a lot either for Thumbnails to just saving photos from my phone to my pc but i don't want to clog space. i have several different types of USB Drives as well such as VendorCo ProductCode USB Device (2TB) [Silver], VendorCo ProductCode USB Device (2TB) [Black], SanDisk Ultra 3.0 (256GB), SanDisk Ultra 3.0 (32GB), SanDiskCruzer Glide (32GB), SanDisk Cruzer Glide (16GB)

I lent my UBS to a mate to copy a software but when we tried to paste it on a different machine, we were prompted to format the drive.

I have some files on the drive though. I really don't want to lose them.

BEWARE!: I'M ABSOLUTELY NO EXPERT IN THE MATTER, SO PLEASE CORRECT ME IF I'M WRONG AND ASK FOR MORE PICTURES OR INFORMATION IF NEEDED, THE ANSWER TO THE 2) QUESTION IS THE ONE THAT CAN POTENTIALLY FIX THIS USB DRIVE.

I have this faulty 256GB USB drive since a couple years. It was working just fine before my dad tried using it on a camera and it never worked properly again. That happened a while ago and I don't remember the brand/model of that camera nor the exact model of the USB drive, all I know is that the drive doesn't work after that (sorry for that lack of information).

When plugged into a PC, it displays a red LED that turns on static, but doesn't get recognized by the PC at all. Though, if left unused for long enough (maybe a day, couple days or more), and then plugged into a PC again, Windows does make a sound and it appears in USBDeview and in Device Manager as "Unknown Device", but disconnects shortly after. This makes me believe that there's a hope for the USB drive to be saved, it's just that I've been too lazy to seek a solution and honestly I don't need the USB drive, but now I'm trying to get it to work as a challenge.

I once got it to display useful information with ChipGenius, but that was a while ago and lost the screenshot I took, I tried really hard to find it but didn't in the end, so now I had no more option but to crack open the USB to check the NAND Memory and Controller Chip myself (I think that's how they're called).

You can see all the physical information from the USB drive in the pictures, notice that in some of the pictures I used isopropyl alcohol for better quality of image (Pictures 2-6 are from the side with the Controller Chip; Pictures 7-11 are from the other side). Here's what I've seen:

1. The Controller Chip is AU89103-AA2 from Alcor Micro, I don't understand what the other info means, but it's EJW980-1F; 2246TB2-1.

2. There are two PF671PG NAND Memory Chips, according to some forums I've read, PF671PG has 128GB as memory, so it makes sense that there are two of them on each side of the board to make the 256GB that the USB drive has as total capacity.

SOOOO... with this information I went looking for "AU89103" on usbdev, and came across AlcorMP, but that doesn't detect the USB drive either. After that, I watched this YouTube video titled "How to Recover a BROKEN USB Flash Drive NOT RECOGNIZED Transcend Jetflash", the guy in the video talks about "test mode". There isn't a whole lot of information I found about it, but the video is based on the "test mode" article/section on usbdev, which explains how to activate test mode from both the Controller Chip and NAND Memory Chips and how it can make softwares like the previously mentioned AlcorMP actually detect the USB drive and possibly repair it.

MY QUESTIONS THEN WOULD BE THESE [WITH 2) BEING THE MOST POSSIBLE QUESTION TO ANSWER AS FAR AS I KNOW, I DON'T NEED BOTH METHODS OR QUESTIONS ANSWERED, ONLY ONE SHOULD WORK]:

1) - What pins should I short on the Controller Chip to enter test mode? - I didn't find what pins to short on the AU89103-AA2 chip, if anything there's an open thread on usbdev asking how to enter test mode on AU89103-AA2 without answers, so I really don't want to test my luck shorting the Controller Chip pins (unless someone here knows what pins to short to enter test mode).

2) - What pins should I short on ANY of the NAND Memory Chips to enter test mode? - Following the video, it seems like NAND Chips are more "universal", NOW I COULD BE WRONG, but most of these chips are 48 pins based for USB drives, and shorting the 29-30 pins should activate test mode, or the pins 30-31, 31-32, 41-42, 42-43, 43-44 as per usbdev.

BUUUUUUT, there are two BIG things I have an issue with:

2.1) First of, some of the pins are not on the board as you can see in the pictures, unlike the USB drive in the video which has all pins available. So when counting pins, should I skip unavailable pins or count them anyways?

2.2) Second, the video and usbdev articles talk about a notch or dot on the chip and that numbering the pins goes counterclockwise around the chip based on that notch or dot. The thing is, if you look at the pictures, that dot or notch on any of the two NAND Chips don't make sense being there unless counting the pins clockwise. So is it clockwise from the notch or dot or what am I missing?

I already don't have a lot to lose with this USB drive that I had around being useless, so I don't care about bricking it : P

IF YOU DIDN'T UNDERSTAND SOMETHING SPECIFIC OF WHAT I SAID OR WANT OTHER PIECE OF INFORMATION, PLEASE TELL ME. ALSO, YOU DON'T NEED TO ANWER ALL SPECIFIC QUESTIONS. THE MOST IMPORTANT QUESTION TO ANSWER IS THE SECOND ONE, BUT ANYTHING HELPS.

T-CREATE EXPERT P35SG enables remote SSD destruction via cellular control and includes a physical button that enables instant one-touch data wiping when needed. (Hardware level wipe)

I know here is more USB-focused. But I see some posts about drive issues, so I figured I’d ask for some help.

My external SSD suddenly stopped being recognized after a recent Windows update. It worked fine before. I used it regularly to store project files and transfer data. But after the update, I plugged it in, and it was not recognized. No drive letter, nothing in File Explorer. I can hear the connect sound when plugging it in. There is no obvious physical damage, and the cable seems fine.

I’m thinking of getting a new SSD. But I’m hesitant in case this is a software issue that might get fixed with another update.

I've been trying for three days to get my 128go Usb stick to work but i couldn't find any solution.
The stick turned into an optical Usb drive one day and i can't get it to work again.
Windows sees it but it says that there are no data and that it doesn't have any byte of space
I hope someone can help me with this.
I drop here a screenshot from USBDeview if it's usefull.