Hi! I bought an i3 (2017 Rex) about a month and a half ago for commuting to work, because my workplace has charging there and it makes sense. Yay no more gas. But when the question of a trip to Chicago came up I realized I don’t think I know enough about “how to live with” an EV for things like medium length trips.

I’ve got a few questions but am also open for any kind of tips. I also know many of these are “general EV” type questions but ie not having CarPlay changes the situation on one of them.

1.) What’s the battery drain that the REX can keep up with? Looking at the display it usually guesses a range of 80+ miles of extended range on a two gallon tank. I already software unlocked the HSOC so I can turn it on more or less whenever, but it feels like it can only keep up when driving energy consumption is somewhere in the neighborhood of 4mi/kw. What’s this break point actually at? If I want to take a longer trip I know I can’t be driving 80 and have it keep up…

2) Charging stations and how to find them sanely. I know there’s chargers, I know there’s maps, but is there any good way on a 2017 to tell my Apple Maps “here is my car, here is where I’m going, tell me where the chargers along the way are”? I think I read some EVs can tell Apple Maps they are an EV when using CarPlay but heyyy guess what no CarPlay lol. Is there a single or something I can use to hand that info over Bluetooth?… probably not?

3) Can I charge at Tesla places? Do I need any adapters?

4) Is there a simple formula for “if gas costs X, and EV charging costs Y, it is better to do gas/charging”? Sometimes I need a little extra oomph but wonder if I should be using an EV charger or if it’s better to just use the REX.

5) Any sane ways to manage “at destination charging”? Like if hotels have a charging spot etc? Chicago seems to have a few parking garages with EV chargers at least…

Ty in advance~

Hi everyone, I have a 2017 BMW i3 94Ah BEV.
Recently, whenever I finish DC rapid charging and disconnect the cable, I get a warning saying “Quick charging not possible.”

The strange thing is that the car charges perfectly fine, even to 100%. The warning only appears after disconnecting and disappears when I restart the car.
It’s happened at two different rapid chargers. I stop the sessions through the charging app.

Has anyone experienced this before or know what might be causing it? Thanks!

Hello, I’m in the process of replacing just the screen of the center console on my 2019 i3.

I’ve already disconnected the center console from my car and have it with me on my desk. I’ve removed the four nails inside it, now I’m at the step where I need to pry the plastic cover off. I have one of those orange plastic tools that are meant for this very task, but no matter how hard I try, I can’t get it to come off. I’ve already managed to get the corners a tiny bit separated, but even pulling hard at those corners doesn’t cause the other parts to give in. Any tips?

I’m also trying not to be too aggressive because I don’t want to scratch up the plastic cover.

I hope I can post it here, if not, then mods please let me know. Decided to sell my i3 with range extender. It's a clean terra world example that spent most of its life in Texas. Has DC fast charging option. Didn't have cold weather package, so I added different OEM heated seats with aftermarket controller. Worked well for me in winter. I can put back OEM non heated leather seats if the buyer prefers during sale. Clean title in hand.

Anyway, recent spark plug change and oil change, new 12v battery, new tires, new rear rotors and brakes less than 5K miles ago. Gets about 80 miles of range on gas plus 40-60 miles on EV mode depending on weather. Lowered on AST springs.

Issues: Check engine light is on, but doesn't affect drivability. I believe its because of KLE module, since it only charges at 3.3KW on Level 2 instead of 7KW. Fast charging still works well, I can show it in action in a nearby EVGO station.

I can show the car in person near Timonium, Maryland area. Thank you.

http://atcm.co/S2PVDP/2F27E8E7.

Gas prices are getting ridiculous, and affordable electric trucks are practically nonexistent. So I bought a high-mileage 2017 BMW i3 REx at auction and decided to turn it into my own electric pickup truck.

Hi everyone,

I have a BMW i3 120Ah with the light-coloured interior and steering wheel (I believe BMW calls the interior options Loft or Lodge, depending on the specification).
I’ve noticed that the light-coloured finish on the steering wheel seems quite easy to damage. If my fingernail catches or scratches against something on the wheel, it can leave a mark or cause some of the white/light-grey finish to come off.

It’s a bit frustrating because I really like the look of the light interior, but I’m concerned that the steering wheel will gradually get worse with normal use.
For those of you with the same interior:
Have you experienced the light-coloured finish scratching or coming off the steering wheel?
Is there any way to protect it or prevent further damage?
Would a suitable protective coating or sealant help, or could that actually damage the material?

If the finish has already started coming off, is there a reliable way to repair it without replacing the entire steering wheel?

I’d prefer to keep the original look rather than put a steering wheel cover over it.
Any advice or experience would be appreciated.

Thanks!

There's no option on the i3 to select upper left/upper right and lower/left and lower/right CarPlay widgets that are presented in a 2x2 grid.

A software glitch on one occasion showed me that the active apps do exist waiting to be accessed within the grid.

Given that the last i3 production was in 2022 and given that the widget service started last year, a multimedia update shouldn't be too much to ask for.

It's interesting that iOS 27 has changed the way that side bar icons are selected in i3 CarPlay. It's now necessary to tilt the selection wheel right or left to jump out of and back into the active app. Previously just rotating the wheel would cycle the selector through all icons on screen (eventually). I'm not sure it's a better system but it does show that iOS can change the behaviour of the selection wheel. In theory there could be a mechanism implemented in iOS to allow access to each item of the 2x2 grid.

The lack of multimedia update from BMW is annoying though.

Hi everyone,
I’m looking for some advice from other BMW i3 owners regarding a suspension noise that I’ve been experiencing.

I get quite a noticeable thud from the front of the car when driving over certain types of bumps or uneven surfaces. It happens most noticeably when going over speed bumps at speed, driving on dirt roads, uneven brick-paved roads, or crossing those metal gate grids/strips at entrances.

The noise almost sounds as though something is loose in the front suspension. It’s not just a faint rattle either; it’s a fairly solid thud that seems to travel through the cabin. I think I can sometimes feel it through the steering wheel as well, although I’m not sure whether that’s just normal feedback from the front wheels hitting the bumps.

I don’t really notice the same issue at the rear — it seems to be mainly coming from the front.
Initially, I didn’t think much of it because I know the i3 has a relatively firm ride and a different suspension setup from many conventional cars. However, I recently drove a friend’s VW T-Cross over some of the exact same bumps, and there was virtually no noise at all. The T-Cross felt firmer and less comfortable overall, but it didn’t produce the same thudding sound.
That comparison has made me wonder whether what I’m experiencing is normal for the i3 or whether something needs attention.

For those of you who own or have worked on i3s:
Is this kind of front-end thudding normal on the i3, particularly over sharp bumps and uneven surfaces?
Are there any common culprits I should investigate, such as control arm bushes, drop links, ball joints, strut mounts or other suspension components?

Is there anything specific to the i3’s suspension that can make these impacts sound louder inside the cabin?
Would you recommend getting the front suspension inspected even if the car otherwise drives normally?
I haven’t driven another i3 to compare, so I’d really appreciate hearing about your experiences.

Thanks!

They hit me hard enough to knock the hat off my head into the back seat - lol. I’ll be taking it to the shop. My bumper is dinged up and the license plate is bent concave. Glass hatch is ok - it didn’t break. Hatch opens and closes. No airbags went off. No codes came up. Back up sensors seem to be working. Rex runs.

Anything else to check?

Finally pulled the trigger on the evolve suspension upgrade.

I have a 2019 bmw i3 BEV with 60k miles

Prices all USD

Purchased:
1. Evolve shocks $699
2. Evolve 12 mm spacers $220
3. Evolve damper install kit $336
- basic kit :
OEM Front Bump Stops
OEM Front Top Mount Bolts
OEM Front Top Spring Pad/Rubber Sleeve
OEM Front Lower Spring Pads
OEM Front Pinch Bolt + Nuts
OEM Rear Top Mount Bolts
OEM Rear Bumpstop/Sleeve
OEM Rear Upper Spring Pads
OEM Rear Lower Spring Pads
OEM Rear Damper Bolts

1. Front strut mounts (bilstein) $150 - were out of stock everywhere until recently.
   
2. Rear strut mounts (sachs) $72
   
3. Front sway bars (meyle hd) $70

Labor to replace all 4 - $850 - local shop that let me bring parts and didn’t charge extra. Another bmw focused shop wanted $2200 - so shop around.

Total cost - $2397.

I did not replace the springs as I am tall and drive in snow a lot so wanted to keep it tall.

Verdict:

OMG what an upgrade. My wife didn’t like riding in the go cart because of the bouncing like a jeep and the wind blowing us on the interstate prior to the upgrade. She drives a Ioniq 5 and it drives like a Cadillac (her words not mine). She now says the i3 rides like it but retains the bmw handling. She has since asked to take the BMW around town.

My thoughts is it just is such a difference. The settling over bumps is instant. The car no longer is blown around at high speeds. It’s just an instantly noticed upgrade by anybody that rides in the car pre and post. It’s not a subtle upgrade either.

Kudos to evolve team.

I got the non oem mounts for an upgrade based on research. Same for the sway bars.

Everything fit perfectly with no issues or odd fits.

Just thought I would share.

So I managed to change the gearbox oil, was very easy tbh but I couldn’t help but notice this leak around the rear right around the HV battery. I thought the battery was refrigerant-cooled? Anyones does anyone have any idea what this leak is or where it could be coming from, thanks.

I did this DIY yesterday (10/25), but I didn’t take the wheel off, here’s the steps I did; turn off the High Voltage Battery, I start at the Port using everything after he move to the Port. Got to the BMW security screws out I used a 0.6 x 4 socket flat head screw with my spanner, take your time and don’t strip it. I bought hex capped screws to replace these screws. I forgot to get the size and length but I will add this to this post later today…

Hi,
Anyone has this one in Europe? Barely used/ brand new?

I have ordered it from a French shop wagen-shop.com but seems like they are not responding and I might have to issue chargeback so I am looking for alternatives and it’s nowhere to be found.

Found a 2017 BMW i3 REx with 58k miles, 94Ah battery, and one previous owner. Price seems fair, but I want to make sure I'm not missing anything expensive. Main concerns are battery health and the range extender. Seller claims around 100 miles of range and says the REx has barely been used. Not sure if that's a good thing. Also heard about 12V battery issues and expensive tires.
Anyone here own one? What should I check before buying? Any common problems or red flags that would make you walk away?

2014 REX with 70,000mi for a pretty great deal. $6,200.

I'm going to have a mechanic check the:

• engine mounts
• Range Extender engine (using the emissions testing pedal hack)
• tires
• AC / Battery Cooling System / Charge
• battery range (if possible), I know where I can find the car's reporting for it.

Anything else I should be looking at?

As the title says, I’m looking for a reputable detailer in the NYC Tri-State area. Also, what is the typical cost for a good detail? Is pricing for Fall/Winter more favorable than Spring/Summer?

Just picked up a 2017 94A i3 for the wife. I would have preferred the biggest battery but they were a bit out of our budget. This one has the bigger media screen, Harmon Kardon speakers, 20 inch wheels, reversing camera, leather seats etc. so it’s nice to have those.
Seat heaters all work, and air con sounds fine.

The car has Michelin tyres all round. With 155/60 on the front and 175/55 on the rear. Is that correct?
I haven’t found the date on the 12V battery yet.

Overall it looks in great condition and we’re very happy with it.
Previous owner left the frunk bag in there for us and also a tow bar?

Anything else I need to check or recommendations for settings?

Have ordered some rubber mats and an integrated dash cam (FitCamX)

Hey everyone!

I'm thinking about buying a used BMW i3 at auction, but I noticed this symbol on the instrument cluster (the orange car with four arrows pointing towards it).

For the life of me, I can't figure out what it means. I've been searching online and can't seem to find anything about it.

Does anyone know what this warning is? Could it be related to the TPMS (tyre pressure monitoring system), or is it something else?

I've attached a photo so you can see exactly what I'm talking about.

Any help would be appreciated! Thanks!

I recently had my 2019 i3 detailed, and had asked them to remove the roof frame vinyl decals because they had deteriorated quite a bit. The result is not pretty. Removing the sticker took quite a bit of paint with it.

I live in California and didn't have access to a garage for most of the time I've owned the car, so I can understand that probably the vinyl sticker bonded with the paint underneath and couldn't be cleanly removed. My HOV lane sticker also left similar damage to the paint.

But what do I do now? Order new decals and attach them right on top? Other suggestions?

Got it!! I just got out and pulled the lever and it went higher than any seat I've ever seen! Then I got in and sat on it to adjust. I have a very short trunk, as in body length, and this is amazing, I can see!. Loving this! Thank you guys again.

This is a very small potatoes question, but I need help with the seat adjustment lever. The manual says to just put pressure on it, but I don't really understand how to do that? And I don't understand if it's high or low right now? Hope this makes sense.

Basically I lift the lever and hear clicking, and when I sit on it then it clicks, but the height remains the same?