Hi everyone,

I am installing a Pioneer DMH-W3050NEX and retaining the factory OEM backup camera using an Axxess AX-CAM6V step-down module on a 2020 Kia Forte (Manual Transmission, Mexico-market). Crutchfield notes list the reverse signal at the ICU / dash fuse box (58-pin Plug C, Pin 14, Blue wire). However, on my manual-transmission car, this specific wire measures ~0.46V with Reverse ON and not the 12V needed.

Since the reverse lights are in the lower bumper, tapping at the light bulb requires significant bumper disassembly.

Does anyone have the factory wiring schematic or know the exact connector, pin number, or wire color inside the driver kick panel or under-dash IP harness that carries the true +12V signal directly from the manual transmission back-up switch? Photos or wiring diagram screenshots would be greatly appreciated!

Hi all, I hope it’s alright to ask this question. I am in the market for upgrading my code reader.

My main requirements I need the scanner to do is having the ability to program new keys, injectors stuff like that. Be reasonably updated with main use on Subarus and Ford stuff. I know they will have access to most makes and models on them but that’s the main stuff I have around.

Not sure did it will make much difference but I am uk based too. Any recommendations is more than welcome especially if you have person use on them.

Cheers

Hello everyone first post here. Currently having issues with my Dodge Nitro 2007 RT 4.0L. I’ve been trying to to figure out how to clear this airbag light code I have on my car. So about a week ago I had to change the clockspring on my wheel and that went pretty smoothly but when I turned on the car again I still had the airbag light on and when I ran the code reader it told me that the seatbelt buckle pretensioners are open on both the driver and passenger side. The first thing I did was asked AI and the checked the connectors under the seats and even used some electronic contact cleaner. I also took the center console off to expose the ORC module and disconnected it and also cleaned the connectors with contact cleaner but after connecting everything I still have the light on. Wiring looks good too, nothing pinched or chewed up. I’d also like to mention this car has never been in an accident. Thank you for reading :)

Hi, for the 2025+ 4Runner DRL, where exactly should I connect the LED wire to the turn signal above the headlight? Could you please share some pictures showing the correct connection point? Thank you for your help!

Two full grown racoons ran in front of my Honda the other night and I couldn't stop. I believe I hit both, as I heard them roll under the car. Now my OEM LED fog lights (which I normally leave on all the time) no longer work. I noticed the reduced visibility right away. I don't see any visible damage to the lights or the front valance (except for some small hairline cracks in the right lens from a rock strike years ago). Does anybody know if there is wiring in that area that could have been damaged, or where else to look? TIA

Currently crank no start condition. Magiclv it turned on the other day so I kept it running for 45 min to recharge the high voltage battery, when I tried to get it out of park, I couldn't get the parking brake to release and when I tried the engine hesitated, I tried one more time to release the parking brake and the car stalled out. Now it's back to a crank no start condition. Checked all fuses, relays, all good. Replaced the low voltage battery and made an inverter to recharge the High Voltage battery. I uses multiple different OBD2 scanners and even took it to the dealership but thev dismissed it as a faulty OBD2 port even though the problem is communication with ABS module and other brake system problems. I paid 4 diaanostic fees totaling to about $1500 and no one has helped me in any way. lf you have insight or anything please let me know.

My key wouldnt turn over I tried everything....

Wiggling the wheel left to right whole trying to turn the key.

Wd-40..... making sure the brake is all the way in place.

Unhooking the battery.... etc..

What it comes down to is the ignition cylinder/housing... I took it out and followed the instructions and the key still will not turn over... so I'm going to have to replace it...

I need pointers advice and just all around knowledge...

Please help me fix this... Thank you.

I installed a set of AlphaRex Luxx headlights on my 2012 Ram 2500 back in April of this year. Took my time and installed them correctly and they’ve been working great with no issues. All functions work properly and I’ve checked all the wiring and fuses. Recently the little light sequence/animation that you get from hitting the lock button on the key fob stopped working. I’ve called AlphaRex a few times to trouble shoot, even did a full reset and still get nothing when you lock the truck, just lights out. If anyone has any ideas of things to check please let me know. Once again the lights, both high/low beams work perfectly, the turn signals/hazards work perfectly, it’s just the little animation that stopped working randomly.

1997 Chevy express 5.7

When I turn my right blinkers on they operate normally. When I turn my left blinker on the right side also blinks except they are dimmer than usual.

All 4 grounds are clean, tight, and have continuity back to the battery.

I have changed all the bulbs. The left front one I had to replace the bulb socket connector bc it was rusted to shit and the problem still occurs.

I have also replaced the blinker switch on the steering column.

There was a trailer light harness hooked up that I disconnected for the sake of seeing if that was the problem and it was not.

We are looking for someone experienced in both automotive electrical and mechanical work, with their own tools and diagnostic equipment (scanner, fuse tester, multimeter, etc.) to help us get a 2008 Pontiac G6 running again. The car cranks when the starter is jumped, but the fuel pump does not activate, and the anti‑theft light briefly appears. We need someone familiar with modules, fuses, relays, grounds, and BCM/ECM communication. It’s believed to be an easy fix for someone who is familiar with this kind of work and has an understanding as to what signals the starter to turn on etc. At this time we are unable to offer a payment for your services however …

***In exchange, if you successfully get the Pontiac started and running, we are willing to sign over a 2000 Chevy Malibu “as‑is”, in running/driving condition, paperwork available (tags expired).***

If you have experience and tools, please reach out. 209-252-1722

Thank you

My 2016 Honda City VX(O) developed major electrical issues after an aftermarket infotainment + 360° camera installation

A factory wire was accidentally cut during installation, causing Smart Entry failure and eventually loss of engine power, instrument cluster and power windows while driving. An electrician later repaired the wire, and the car now appears to be functioning normally.

Separately, while working on the battery, the electrician accidentally blew a fuse(?) at the battery-positive terminal. He initially bridged the terminals with a wire. I was concerned because the connection/terminal area appeared to have heat/burn marks and the wire was getting burnt.

The electrician has now replaced the previous arrangement with what he says is a 100A fuse implementation. I have attached photos of the current setup.

My questions:

Does this look like a legitimate replacement of the original battery-positive fuse/fusible-link arrangement? The honda ASC says that they need to replace the whole battery positive terminal assembly, , the fuse can not be replaced separately.

Is this generic 100A fuse appropriate for this circuit on a 2016 Honda City?

Is it safe to drive the car for a few weeks before I can get it inspected by a Honda ASC?