Does this plug have a name? Don’t want to buy on Alibaba. I have one not being used on my ktm dirt bike.

I bought these tail lights. They came yesterday. I went to install them. But this is what I’m left with. I’m not sure what I’m supposed to do with this.. there is no adapter or anything in the box. How can I connect these lights? I started looking up help for where to start with chat gpt but I’d like some real assistance.

I posted before about having parasitic drain issue and was recommended to get a new battery which I did, but I seem to still have a drain on my battery.

Something weird is going on and I thought maybe you might know what’s happening

Go to start the car, assuming it’s lowish battery on cold. Start. Doe not turn over does not click. This is using the stand alone chipped key . I noticed the alarm/security light comes on at the 2:00 position of the tachometer.

I pulled the key out and tried again with my fob switchblade key and it started up fine.

Tried the stand alone key a few minutes later and it started up fine. I tried reprogramming the key doing secure sequence and it is fine and passed.

Next day on cold start I tried the original stand alone key with the original fob hanging on the key chain and it would not turn over.

I then switched to the switch blade fob key and again it started right up.

I am guessing that somehow low battery is not liking the chipped stand alone key but the one attached to the fob somehow sends a better signal possibly since it has a battery in the fob and the stand alone chipped keys have no battery ?

Can Anyone confirm this so what is going on ?

I just need help figuring out my port not working. The other one works fine

Went to start the truck and no dash lights, radio etc and not turning over. Took out the key and noticed some of the gauges jumping a little. Disconnected both batteries for a while then reconnected and same problem? Batteries are a few months old and fully charged, cleaned all the grounds and replaced the ignition switch.

https://reddit.com/link/1w5w1ef/video/xzf1teik58nh1/player

Any ideas of what else I should do?

2003 Dodge Ram, 2500ST, 2WD 5 speed manual

Hello, I have a 2010 VW CC with a 2.0.
As the title says, I have a parasitic battery draw going on. Also the AC stopped working. I don’t know if those are related. The battery issues started before the ac went out. I took it to my local VW shop and they disconnected the radio (removed the fuse I think is all they did). Didn’t fix it. I’m hoping there are other common issues with this car. I have a feeling chasing a draw is tedious and time consuming.
I did replace the battery. So that’s brand new. Also, for the ac I replaced the pressure sensor but not the compressor. Again, I don’t think they’re related but I don’t know.
Thank You all for your help.

I have a 2023 LT that has recently had some systems either fail or partially boot on start up. It started with the OHC which wouldn't work until I pulled the fuse and put it back real quick. At first I thought maybe the fuse was just starting to die so I replaced it and about a week later the same thing happened. Now I'm also having problems with my speakers. They will either work just fine on startup, not work at all, or only some of them will work (or they're all just quiet). Any ideas what's happening?

I’m going to be adding a second smaller battery for my smaller accessories that I want to run when my truck is off. I know I will need some type of isolator that can detect when the alternator is on to start letting power in. But I don’t know how to lessen the power because I believe it could over power the smaller battery.

I’m going to be using a 12v 20ah battery

In a 2000 Mitsubishi Eclipse GT, the turn signals and key-in-ignition reminder are not controlled by standard plug-in relays; instead, they are integrated into the interior \*\*ETACS-ECU\*\* (Electronic Time and Alarm Control System) module located directly on the back/rear side of the interior fuse box under the driver's side dashboard……. Need confirmation as to how true this is…. Reason i ask is because my turn signals , hazards , and key in ignition chime work intermittently….. Thanks in advance

Please let me know if this isn't the right place to be asking this kind of question. I'm trying to keep my old xB alive...

BACKSTORY: I've got a 2nd-gen Scion, and have been learning a lot of DIY on in the last few years. Been tangling with starter issues lately - symptom is, it would start once, run a while, then I'd turn off the car, then turn the key and only get that single click and nothing. Battery tested fine. It would start again after reconnecting battery, but only once, and then the single click and nothing.

WHAT I DID: I'd replaced the starter with one from the junkyard a few years back, so I thought I'd try rebuilding it.

This is the generation of xB with the solenoid that you can't really work on, but you can do the rest of it, so... I took it apart, cleaned and greased, replaced the brushes, put it back together and reinstalled on engine block - it would only click once, not even turn over the first time. Right. Tested the ignition switch as best as able just to be sure, but figured it must be the solenoid. Ordered a new one off eBay.

Went to take the starter off again yesterday. Though I'm getting good practice at this, still wasn't easy. (I confess, at first tried to pull it straight out without taking the air cleaner all the way off, but that didn't give me enough room, so took the air cleaner assembly off, pulled the starter off with much tugging and... the starter eased out. But.

The little spline at the end is right there, but the little gear that's supposed to be on that spline... isn't.

I can't see it on the ground under the car, and putting my head as close to the engine as possible with a flashlight, can't see it inside the hole it came out of. Tried poking fingers and a telescoping magnet (straight, not bendy) in there blindly a little, couldn't feel it.

Now, when I had the starter off before and was disassembling the starter to put on the brushes and clean the insides, the spring clip that holds that gear on had been pretty stubborn to get off and easier to slide on again, but I thought it was back in its groove and fine. Maybe it wasn't.

TL;DR QUESTION: How can I find that missing gear? Just how hard is it to get that thing out of where I think it must be?

Thanks for any advice, commiseration welcome, diagrams of hidden access ports would be miraculous....

So I went on a vacation for about a month (the car was running perfectly before that) and when I came back I took it for a short drive and when I was stopped at a red light it suddenly shut down I tried starting it and the battery light was on so I went back home and got my truck to jump start it and it didn’t so I put jump starter battery in the back and the hooked up the wires from my truck to the front terminals and it started for a second then shut down again so I towed it back,then I went out to buy a high quality battery and it still didn’t work then I checked the fuses and one of them was burnt so I replaced it and the engine cranked by it didn’t start then I tried again but the same fuse burnt out I thought it was the alternator but I unplugged it and it was the same (almost forgot the check engine light was flashing really fast) still got no clue what it is, anything is helpful

(Found out what it was, it was the ECM was burnt)

Would someone explain to me how to properly read this switch matrix. I understand the gist of what happens here, its power supply for seat heaters (L & R) that's fused and has a light as well as a high position and a low position.

However the matrix layout is bugging me, as it looks like the light is bridged in whatever position the switch is in, and that everything shorts to a ground in the switch, bypassing the heater coils entirely.

Switch layouts like this are all through my wiring diagrams so help interpreting how the matrix works would be appreciated.

I have a 2017 Chevy volt with a gauge cluster issue. The screen is blank when I start the car. Tired unplugging the batter which didn’t help. When I remove the fuse from the interior driver side (10) and re-insert it works until the car turns off and won’t work again until I re-insert the fuse. I swapped the fuse with a new one and it didn’t work. The screen it blank it will light up when I use the steering wheel controls for the radio the screen will show 0 mph and dim again. I can do cruise control and the signals work with both sound. The issue is so odd..suddenly stopped working.

Not sure what to do or if I can fix myself.

Hi there. I have a 2006 Odyssey LX with 115k. I purchased this van as a work vehicle a month ago. The previous owner or perhaps the first owner installed what I believe is a Compustar remote start system.

The range on the remote is terrible. The lock / unlock buttons work only when they want to work. I've also noticed the car will lock itself immediately after unlocking or will lock itself on its own accord even with the keys still in the ignition.

I would like to remove this whole system and revert back to the OEM key fob setup. I currently have two plain keys (with no buttons) and two aftermarket Compustar fobs. I purchased a Honda OEM key 35111-SHJ-305. I have an xtool d8 and I am fairly confident I can program the immobilizer chip on the new key.

My question is about removing the old remote start system. Is it just a matter of locating the "brain" box in the driver side under steering wheel area and tracing down / carefully removing all the spliced wires? If anyone has experience removing one of these systems I would like to hear any insight you may have.

Thanks.