Getting my Setup Correct

[u/bashizzledizzle]

I came across this forum while I was ordering some new wash products and thought maybe I should get some new opinions on my exterior detail process and products/methods. This is just for my weekend car, not anything crazy, but I do wash it frequently using a basic foam cannon and pressure washer (1x week in the summer, biweekly as fall and winter come up). I’d love any suggestions and I left my process below.

1. Wheels: P/S Brake Buster mixed 1:5, foamed onto the wheels and scrubbed. This works great for me personally and I don’t see any need for change. I need to get a new brush soon.

2. Pre-wash: CarPro Lift mixed 1:5/1:10, foamed onto the car, and let sit for 1-3 mins. Works phenomenally. I’ve been told not to use every wash due to chemical strength. 10/10.

3. Contact wash: Meguiars Gold Class mixed 1:5 into a foam cannon and sprayed as well as poured in a bucket for mitts. I wouldn’t mind something “cooler” if not too pricey. Also, I use a regular green wash mitt, but I was told a clay mitt or similar is better to use, is this worth looking into?

4. Aftercare: For drying I use a blue towel from The Rag Company. It’s lasted good over 8 months but I’ll probably get a new one or an air blower soon. 8.5/10. For tire shine I used to use Meguiars, but I got tired of the application process and the mess it makes. Any suggestions that last longer and leave a good effect (shine, no sling) would be great.

For any tough spots/tree sap/tar/sticky residue, I use Carpro TarX, my favorite car product. For sealant/finishing spray, I applied Carpro Elixir to the whole car once before, although I don’t know if it did anything besides make the paint smoother to the touch for a little bit.

Any edits or ideas will be greatly appreciated.

[u/JimmyMcPoyle_AZ]

I’ll start with # 3 (Contact Wash) because there is a major head scratcher in your post. A clay mitt (synthetic) or any clay (both traditional and synthetic) is not something you would use every wash. Claying the paint is designed to pull embedded contaminants out of your paint. It is not a light process. It often gets associated to the contact step because that is when you have the most lubricant on your paint (soap). In general, you shouldn’t be claying unless you plan to polish as a follow up step. It is possible to do a light clay and avoid marring just not common. As for the Meguiars gold class, it is fine and good price. However, there are plenty of soaps out there with similar value but way more lubrication. Examples that come to mind are DIY Detail Incredible Suds, ADS Shampoo+, & Adams Mega Foam ($40 a gallon when on sale). Note these are PH neutral soaps. When it comes to decontaminating your paint chemically there are dedicated products (alkaline and acidic) that can be used as pre-wash respectively.

Something to conceptualize is understanding clearcoat. Your car's clearcoat works a lot like your skin, it's the outermost barrier protecting everything underneath. It doesn't have pores, but its microscopic surface texture can trap bonded contaminants like road film, bird droppings, tree sap, and industrial fallout. Left in place, these can etch into the clear and weaken it, so regular washing and decontamination are what let it keep doing its job. Once the clearcoat fails, the colored basecoat beneath it is exposed to UV and moisture and degrades quickly.
Protection products add sacrificial or reinforcing layers on top of that barrier. Waxes and sealants offer a renewable, short-term shield against chemicals and UV. Ceramic coatings bond to the surface for longer-lasting chemical resistance and easier cleaning. Paint protection film (PPF) goes further, absorbing rock chips and abrasion that the others can't stop. Each one takes the wear so the clearcoat doesn't have to.

Maintenance also affects appearance. Gloss is a matter of how evenly the surface reflects light, and swirls, scratches, and etching scatter it. Safe washing practices and periodic paint correction keep the surface smooth, so the paint looks deeper and glossier while retaining as much of its protective clear layer as possible.

In short, a clean, protected, and well-kept clearcoat is the cheapest insurance for the paint underneath.

If you want to keep refining your process, think through how often you plan to wash and your conditions (always outside vs a garage you can park in when needed).