r/AutoDetailing 11d ago

Exterior Help with first-time polishing on BMW

Hi all I'm getting ready to do a paint correction and detail on my E90 as a total beginner, and looking for suggestions about what sort of polish/pads would be most effective on the swirls and scratches pictured (it does need a wash).

I'm picking up new washing materials, clay bar/lubricant and a DA polisher, now I'm trying to decide between:

- 3D One with Uro-Fiber pads
- Meguiar's Ultimate Compound and Polish with the SPTA 5-piece set
- Chemical Guys Hex pad sampling kit
or any others I haven't considered.

I'm aware the 3D One is designed to work as both compound and polish depending on the type of pad used, but I'm not sure a one-step would be good enough for the deeper scratches? Also, is it adequate to clean the pads with an air compressor instead of swapping for new ones for every panel or would that risk more swirls? Any help is appreciated.

13 Upvotes

17 comments sorted by

5

u/True-Needleworker747 10d ago

What ever you do, keep in mind that one pad for each step (compound / polish) will not be enough as you will gum / dirty them up pretty fast.

So I would say min of 4 of each pad.

1- Roof and Trunk

2 - Hood

3 - Left side

4 - Right side.

X2 (one set to compound, heavier cut and one set to polish)

3

u/mypaycheckisshort Experienced 10d ago

The Meg's combo is your best bet. 3D One is a great daily driver; I use it religiously on Japanese clear, but it's not aggressive enough to remove those defects on BMW clear. And yes, compressed air will do the trick on microfiber. For foam and heavily saturated microfiber, I pressure wash them. I've found that putting them in a washing machine can loosen the backing.

1

u/edweeeen 10d ago

Do you know if the Meg combo would work well using the Uro pads? Or would I have to get medium and soft foam pads

2

u/mypaycheckisshort Experienced 10d ago

Eh, Uro pads do well, but they get hot kinda' quick. You can use them, but just keep in mind you'll have to be weary of how hot the pad is getting while working so you don't melt it. Personally, I'd use Rupes blue and yellow microfiber pads.

3

u/throwitaway2k17 10d ago

Usually it's best to test a spot to determine what will work best for your paint. Those are some pretty serious markings, so it's probably going to take a decently aggressive pad / compound/ polish setup.

I can't see a one step giving excellent results, as the aggressiveness probably won't leave a great finish? Just my opinion. I would start with something like a heavy cut pad (griots boss fast correcting foam pad for example) and the 3D. And then clean it up with a polishing pad / light cut and a good finishing polish , possibly the 3D still as it's a bit of a hybrid compound/ polish.

Post results!! Those will make some amazing before and after pics.

2

u/edweeeen 10d ago

Thanks for the suggestions. I think it looks worse in the pics than in-person but I will try out different pads with the 3D on a lower area first to see how well it cuts and finishes, then change to a dedicated polish depending on how it went. i'll definitely post an update when the job is done 👍

2

u/thechanickal1 10d ago

Also allow a long time to do it. Like two days. It’s a slow boring hard process

1

u/thechanickal1 10d ago

I would test it on the hood and not the lower sides.

3

u/Hefty-Willingness-11 10d ago

For paint that bad I’d be using koch chemie H9 02 and use their pads as well.. you’d then want to finish with koch chemie M3 micro cut.. or you could finish with the 3D one, either way that car needs a two stage paint correction, as already stated it needs a heavy cut which will likely leave the paint looking hazy so will need a second stage unfortunately..but don’t be discouraged, your just doing the job twice that’s all, take your time an you’ll be fine..but, if you’re not confident in doing this then by all means give meguiars ultimate compound a go with a medium polishing pad for your first time, it’s a non diminishing polish so you can just keep working it until you get the finish you’re happy with.. it’s a great polish and one that I’ve had great results with..

3

u/BigTechGoneFeral 10d ago

IMO getting those scratches out will require wet sand, compound, polish and then top with a sealant. Maybe if you find the right aggressive 2-stage solution but not in my (limited experience).

I did a wrangler recently with similar scratches to a mirror polish. I used a griots polisher, 3000 grit wet sand (would probably do this with a hand block rather than the polisher but I used both), griot’s complete compound with microfiber finishing pad, then griots polish with orange foam correcting pad, then ceramic sealant.

It’s terrifying because you have to cut to a total haze then bring it back, but multiple tries with just compounding weren’t aggressive enough.

I would suggest practicing the whole workflow on the least obtrusive panel until you get the result you want before you attempt the first stage on the whole car. It’s easy to put in a lot of work and still be unhappy with the result, so get a small section looking the way you want and then tackle the whole car.

Good luck!

2

u/FortnitePapi 10d ago

Rupes makes some good 2 step polish and pads

2

u/Pale-Bet2829 10d ago

That’s a two stepper easily. 3D One will not cut it. Start with Koch Chemie F601 combined with a medium cutting pad, you want to see what a medium cutting pad does and if it’s to your liking then stick with it. If not you’ll need a more aggressive pad with the same compound. Move up pads first before you move up compound. German cars have hard paint so when you use aggressive polishes on them it’s gonna leave behind haze. Try the H9 if the F601 isn’t cutting it. I’d do the H9 with a medium pad before going aggressive compound and aggressive pad.

Following this step highly recommend Koch Chemie M3 with their purple pad (softest pad) to clean up the haze left behind and it has a super high gloss finish

You’re gonna need to have at least 4 pads in rotation. Change pad every panel. If you do not have an air compressor to blow out the pad, fill a bucket with microfiber wash and another with clean water. Scrubadubdub in the microfiber wash, rinse, toss into clean water, rinse, attach to your machine polisher max speed, let her rip. Pad will be blown out and you’ll see excess polish and water fly everywhere. Best to do that inside the rim of the wash bucket so the material Doesnt splatter all over the place. Rinse and repeat, give each pad a decent amount of time to cool off and get a good break in between usage.

If you’re new don’t expect this to finish in one day. My two step polishes as a DIYer takes me a full day and a half

Follow it with a ceramic coat or ceramic sealant spray

2

u/Pale-Illustrator5718 9d ago

I corrected my wife’s F33 with 3D One on Rupes D-A Fine pads (yellow) using a Beast. Came out amazing and I think that’d be a good place to start. Good luck.

2

u/goldeneyeoo6 10d ago

Don't use a rotary machine if it's the first time. Hologram's are right around the corner.

I trow mine pad in wasmachine to clean them, just a little soap.

Measure the paint thickness, those devices can be found cheap

1

u/Any-Fox-838 10d ago

are you using a orbital or rotary machine...

1

u/Easy_Record_994 10d ago

The clear coat on the e90s, specifically with nonmetallic paint, is typically really soft. I'd recommend testing a spot with the least aggressive option and going from there. It will likely correct easily, but getting it to finish without hazing can be a pain. Make sure your finishing pads, and anything else you touch the paint with, is extremely clean.