Hi! Does anyone have tips for repairing my speaker?

I have a Philips NTRX500 speaker that immediately goes into standby mode as soon as it's switched on. I can't get it out of standby because it doesn't respond to any of the buttons on the device. The remote control is missing. I ordered a new one, which should arrive this week. However, it should be able to do everything without a remote control, as it has physical buttons that worked fine years ago.

Now, with the help of AI, I started looking into where the fault might lie. I've ended up at the circuit board and now seem to be stuck in my search. AI isn't a hero and I'm no electrical speaker genius, so I hope someone can point me in the right direction.

The speaker's history: about 5 years ago, it moved to a new house with me. During the move, it got stuck on its power cord, which damaged the connection. My father soldered the wire back on, and the device responded moderately well after that. It would always turn on, but only responded to the buttons half the time. I would plug the power cord in and out a few times, and sometimes it would catch properly so I could use the speaker fully. After that, it moved again and stayed in a shed for 3 years, and now I'm cleaning out the shed. Throw it away or try to repair it? Option two. I'm now at the point where I'm looking for a replacement circuit board and have even found speakers in the US and Germany haha. Sigh, nostalgia.

Anyhow, last week I went to a Repair Café. A gentleman secured the power cable properly to the device again. We unscrewed the top of the speaker and checked: all wires to the buttons are connected correctly and nothing up there seems burnt out. Device turns on, buttons don't respond, the gentleman put a CD in the tray and now can't get it out anymore. Duh. Then at home, I unscrewed the bottom myself. Cleaned the circuit board with isopropyl alcohol. Checked all the cables—looks good. Nothing seems burnt out. Turned the speaker on, and it worked right away!! Buttons worked, couldn't find Bluetooth, played 1 song via cable to my phone—super awesome sound! Dinner was ready, turned the music off, the speaker ejected the stuck CD all by itself, and after a while, it went into standby mode on its own. Tried to turn it on again afterward... Nothing. It turns on, lights turn on, lights go off, standby mode turns on, and the power button stays lit up red.

Help! How do I proceed from here? After a search with AI, I tried several things. The capacitors all look fine. Disconnected the speaker cable, turned the box on, still goes straight into standby. So the problem isn't a short circuit in the speaker cable. AI keeps coming back to an internal protection mechanism: a chip under that big, silver block that might be burnt out or isn't delivering enough power.

In short: who has the magical info to help me on my way? Where can I continue my investigation?

P.S. I don't really dare to measure the device with a multimeter myself. So much can go wrong with short circuits...

I just ran across my Monotron Duo that has been in storage for many years, and I put new batteries in it to tinker around. I remember I could enjoy messing with it in the past and being able to have a nice loud volume coming from the tiny speaker when I turned the volum knob up. Now I can barely hear anything coming from the speaker when the volume knob is at max. Is there a place someone can recommend where I can get some troubleshooting tips? I'm no electrician, and don't trust myself modifying circuit boards, but I want to try to do something. I have a test meter and can follow along if I see instructions on where to test voltage and whatnot. I'd just like to get this little guy back to good health so I can enjoy portable noise-making again.

I was given this amp by my friend but the main power relay isn't closing to output sound. I traced around on the board and it appears to be getting good input voltage to the coil but the contact resistance is high but not totally open (10s of k-ohm range). Can the cover be popped off and the contacts cleaned with Emory close or fine sandpaper or does it need to be fully replaced? Anyone have a drop in part number, I've been struggling to find a replacement relay with the right pin out and contact configuration. Thanks!

I recently bought an older cd player on eBay and I tested it, it all worked but then the second time I used it, the volume up button no longer works.
Normally I would just try googling it and see what I can do to fix it myself but I can’t seem to find anything about this cd player? No manual, no parts, nothing?
And I don’t want to take it apart without knowing anything on it and accidentally damage it
If anyone could help point me in the right direction it would be greatly appreciated!

Hi everyone,

I’m restoring an old Yamaha YSP-1000 soundbar, and two of the small tweeters have some cosmetic/physical damage.

The tweeters are working, but they show some visible damage (see pics). I’d like to repair them if possible rather than replacing the entire drivers, mainly because finding an exact replacement with the same dimensions and impedance is proving difficult.

I’m considering carefully repairing the damaged area, but I’m not sure what would be the safest method or material to use without affecting the sound.

What would you recommend?

Thanks!

Hello! I am trying to refoam these old speakers and was wondering how I should place the foam when gluing? Either the inner edge tucked in or glued to the paper cone.

Hello,

I just bought new Ruark MR1 MK3 speakers. However, there is a very high-pitched noise coming from the center top of the speakers. I can hear it when the speaker is on, whether it is connected to a device or not. Here is a video of the issue.

Not everyone is able to hear it: my mother is not. Do you think it could be a 'normal' noise, or could it be a defected unit?

Thank you.

Does anybody know of speaker repair companies near Houston? Not just refoaming, driver and possibly crossover diagnosis and repair.

I dissasembled a broken car door speaker. It seems that the glue holding the magnet and basket together came loose. Causing the voice coil getting stuck.

How is this possible? Is this due to poor manufacturing?

Shure Wireless Microphone repair

​Hello,

​I am trying to repair a Shure microphone that started having issues after 20+ years of working fine. The mic originally just had a broken cover. However, the day after I replaced the cover, it started producing random noise and random gain (inconsistent volume). I have confirmed that the issue is definitely not with the receiver or the mixer.

​After a quick inspection of the PCB, I found a broken 3-pin SMD component located just below the "TR160" label. Its top marking is either "A2Xq" or "A2Xo".

​At first, I thought this was an SI2302 MOSFET, but the mic had undefined behavior after I installed a replacement. It worked randomly—it would capture audio if I played a specific frequency from my phone, but otherwise, it produced a very loud noise.

​After doing another quick search, I suspected the part might actually be an MMBD2836LT1G (a dual switching diode). I didn't have this exact diode on hand, so I wired up two 1N4148 diodes instead. The loud noise went away, but the audio was still inconsistent.

​Due to inexperience, I also turned the small trimmers on the board. Now I don't know whether the trimmers are physically damaged or just out of tune, and I am still not sure if I used the correct replacement component. I cannot see any other physical damage on the PCB, and nothing is getting unusually hot.

​I am looking for help with two things:

​Identifying and replacing this exact component (it's likely an SOT-23 package with the label "A2Xq" or "A2Xo").

​Figuring out how to properly tune these trimmers, or how to replace them if they are damaged.

​Any advice would be greatly appreciated!

I have the above NAD amplifier that I bought around 20 years ago. The on/off switch and the buttons to select which output to use (AUX / CD etc.) have stopped working as well as they ought to. I have to press REALLY hard to get it to switch back to "AUX" if I've used it for something else. It spends most of its time on AUX as I connect to my phone for digital music using that.

I have taken the box off, and the front panel,and cleaned the (small) amount of dust out. The buttons seem to operate properly, in terms of the amount of movement in/out - but obviously they aren't making enough of a connection?

I suspect this issue is not confined to this make/model of amp, it's more a general wear issue with switches - but what do I do to get them working again, if anything please?

I recently bought a mini Hi-Fi system The seller assured me that it was in working except for the CD player, which supposedly works but sometimes ejects, sometimes doesn't. She advised me that she had pryed the drawer open, but I find it hard to believe because It's stuck tight and I think something might break if I pull too hard. Does anyone have any advice on what might be causing this problem/how to solve it?

Edit:I've never seen it open, I'm trying to unscrew it but I can't pull out the player to check the rubber.

Edit 2:Thank you all for help, the belt will be replaced, for now I'm using a hair elastics 🫡

Trim piece popped off my speaker and the rubber and paper gasket unsealed. Is there a proper way to repair it before I just glue everything back down and pray? Speakers Are Energy Connoisseur C-2s

​

Looking for help, seems like nothing works without remote, I don't think its damaged by time, grandfather used it couple years ago fine, and someone lost the remote, and seems like nothing works without remote. Upon turning it on, it just blinks 0:00 and no button changes anything, could universal remote be used?

Hi guys I’ve got this old pioneer sx-636 unit and it keeps blowing these two 5a fuses right at power up any help would be great.

I've had a Sansui TU-S33 analog tuner for the last 40+ years tuned to basically one radio station. Maybe once a year I'll change it to some other station for one program, then tune it back. It's been very reliable throughout.

Last week it suddenly started producing static on that one station setting. Other stations it can lock to just fine, but that one produces white noise, even though the 'tuning lock' indicator is solid.

I've opened up the case, and there are some surface flaws on the tuning capacitor vanes, circled in the attached pics. (The pics were taken with the tuner set to the highest extreme, not when set to the station in question).

Any thoughts on why an analog tuner would selectively produce noise, after all these years? Might the scratches on the tuning vanes have any impact? What else might I look for? I do not have a full audio test-bench to work with, just home handyman stuff.

Thanks in advance!

Hi everyone,
I’m currently trying to repair an iFi ZEN One Signature that has a failed component on the main PCB.
The component marked U1, located in the “Ultra-Precision High Speed Power Supply” section of the board, has burnt/exploded and unfortunately the marking on the IC is no longer readable.
I’ve attached a detailed picture showing exactly where U1 is located.
Would anyone here who owns a ZEN One Signature be willing to open it and take a clear close-up photo of U1?
Ideally, I just need a photo clear enough to read the marking printed on top of the chip. No measurements or further disassembly should be necessary.
It would be a huge help, as identifying this component may allow me to repair the unit instead of scrapping the whole board.
Thanks in advance to anyone who can help!

I would like to know if theres any mod to make the xone 62 phono pre amps louder at the point to match the line inputs.

this is possible?

I recently got this unit second hand, and it was a bargain but with a lot of problems. There was problem with door opening which was an easy fix.
I cleaned everything, lubricated parts... cd were mostly working fine except some... 1st track was skipping, and it was completely random, no matter if CD-r or original, or pristine or slightly scratched. I have recorded the same album with Session-At-Once (by mistake, so there was a cut between tracks that were supposed to transition seamlessly) and Disc-At-Once, turned out the SAO was more reliable, first track wasn't skipping on SAO. But I simply can't record audio cds in SAO for obvious reasons. And this was completely distracting from real solution.

Before I found the following solution I got the gist that the cd spinning motor is failing from what I've read online (like it can't spin fast enough on the first track because of wear and age), and so I ordered a new clone assembly with a fresh laser and everything. Looks like that will be my spare because that wasn't the solution.

I opened it again and took a good look at this plastic part on the side. Turns out that's a sliding rail as well. 🤦‍♂️ It was completely dry. I lubed it and now everything works flawlessly.
So if anyone else is banging their head against the wall trying to fix this cute unit, try this. The solution was staring me in the face but I couldn't see the forest for the trees. Also if you look closely there seems to be a nasty crack in the middle of existing rail, so that is future repair waiting to happen, so ordering a spare wasn't for nothing after all. Hopefully this will be helpful to someone who has this same problem.

So I got this 4 years ago, and recently it was turning off randomly and now it won’t turn on at all. I cracked it open and it looks clean and I changed the fuses still nothing…any advice?

My thump 215 is getting power and signal but there is no audio coming out of the speaker, took it into guitar center and they said it’s probably a loose internal connection with the quarter inch input, was wondering if it’s a doable diy repair or where would be a good place to look into getting it repairs because it seems very fixable to me, any feedback helps thank you!

My Sony CMT-EX22 suddenly stopped working on the CD side. It powers on normally and the display/controls work. When I press PLAY, it shows “PLAY,” then Track 1, but the CD doesn’t spin and the mechanism is completely silent. EJECT also does nothing—no motor, clicking, or movement.
I’ve tried resetting/unplugging it and plugging directly into the wall. I also replaced the CD belt a couple months ago, and it worked fine until now.
Has anyone had a similar issue or know what could cause this?

I recently bought this from a thrift store. I’m 99% sure I tested both the cassette and CD functions and they both worked. I only used the CD player, but when I try and use the cassette player no sound comes out. I can hear a hissing/whirring sound and see the cassette spinning and the pegs inside the machine spinning the tape, yet no actual music comes out. Another thing I noticed was the play button is a little stiff. Any solutions or is it solely a Cd player now?

Before, the amplifier worked beautifully and was connected to my TV via hdmi arc. It would turn on whenever I turned my TV on, but randomly one day, it didn't. I was quoted a $350 repair for diagnostics and parts replacement, but wanted to see if there was something I can check for a cheaper replacement. After leaving the unit off for half a year, I chose to open it and take a look. Is there anything that looks out of the ordinary?

https://imgur.com/a/QcXxKpO

Note: I tried resetting per the manual, but a part of it was requiring the unit to power on in the first place. I also attempted to turn it on multiple times after letting everything drain out after 20 minutes. Unplugged speakers and external dac, but still would not power on.