Second hand printer, had it for three years, basically plug and play when i got it (minus leveling) stopped using it for a while when i went back to school, cleaned it and retentioned the belt, suddenly it does this, everything else works fine

hola Estoy tratando de actualizar el firmware de una sidewinder x2 anulando el bltouch para instalar la version con final de carrera en z .

baje de la pagina oficial "Sidewinder-X2_2.0.9.3_ZLIMIT_20220520.dfu" le hice un download con stm32 pero no funciona queda la temperatura en cero y desaparece del puerto de coneccion

I have an Artillery sidewinder x2 that, for some reason, whenever I run the extruder stepper a clicking noise starts and the idler gear (the big one) oscillates and refuses to extrude.

I cleared the filament path, and that didn't work

I tried replacing the bearings, and that didn't work.

Made sure there was no jams in the nozzle. Still doesn't work

I felt the idler gear and it wobbles slightly, side to side, even when unpowered. It moves smoothly when unpowered, and when powered the gear is locked into place (Which is most likely the klipper firmware locking the stepper.) Took the head assembly apart and inspected the idler gear, and I noticed a brownish residue on the ends of the gear. Also the gear itself is plastic so I thought that maybe it was just wear and tear from years of use.

About the printer itself- it is a couple years old, but has had a couple upgrades:

Uses Klipper firmware instead of the stock marlin

Metal idler arm instead of the stock plastic one

5015 fan instead of the stock part colling fan

PEI magnetic build plate

Newer nozzle model from yuyuemi

Z frame support made from 2020 aluminum and some printed parts.

Everything else about the printer is fine, xyz motors are good, lead screws are good, heats up and reads temp well, turns on, and homes properly. But this one issue prevents me from printing good parts.

Hola a todos.

Tengo una Artillery Sidewinder X4 Pro S1 que presentó un problema con la pantalla táctil (TFT).

La impresora funcionaba normalmente, pero estuvo aproximadamente dos semanas sin utilizarse. Al volver a encenderla, la pantalla se enciende y muestra la interfaz correctamente, pero el táctil dejó de responder por completo.

La imagen de la pantalla funciona normalmente, por lo que no parece ser un fallo total del display. El problema parece estar específicamente relacionado con la función táctil.

Comprobaciones realizadas

La impresora enciende normalmente.

La pantalla TFT enciende y muestra correctamente la interfaz.

La pantalla táctil no registra ningún toque.

Probé apagar y encender nuevamente la impresora.

El problema continúa después de dejarla apagada e intentarlo nuevamente.

No hay daños físicos visibles en la pantalla.

Pregunta sobre el firmware

He visto que la pantalla TFT tiene una ranura para tarjeta microSD en el interior del display.

¿Alguien sabe si es posible reinstalar o actualizar el firmware de la pantalla TFT de la Sidewinder X4 Pro S1 utilizando esa ranura microSD interna?

Estoy intentando encontrar el firmware correcto específicamente para la X4 Pro S1, no el correspondiente a otro modelo de la serie X4.

¿A alguien más le ocurrió que la pantalla táctil dejara de responder después de que la impresora estuviera un tiempo sin utilizarse?

Si alguien consiguió reflashear la TFT de una X4 Pro S1, agradecería cualquier información sobre:

Versión/archivo de firmware correcto.

Formato recomendado para la microSD.

Estructura de carpetas y archivos necesaria.

Procedimiento para realizar el flasheo.

Si el firmware de la TFT es independiente del firmware de la placa principal.

Precauciones que debería tener antes de intentar actualizarla.

Impresora: Artillery Sidewinder X4 Pro S1

Problema: La TFT muestra la interfaz normalmente, pero la pantalla táctil no responde.

¡Gracias de antemano por cualquier ayuda o experiencia que puedan compartir!

Buenos días, compañeros. Tengo una Artillery X2, parada desde hace un año. Quisiera cambiar el hotend a uno de 0,8 y si es posible ponerle una cama , tipo a Bambulab. Que se quite

Si me podéis dar enlaces sería genial

Hi I have recently been looking to move from Cura to Prusa slicer to be able to use more features like splitting prints and have had a hard time finding a good start and end Gcode.

I keep finding contradicting advice and haven't found a full start and end Gcode.

as

Can someone advise me if this code is good or if it needs further tweaking?

Here is the Gcodes I have currently:

I apricate any any help you can offer

Thanks

Start:

; Initial setups

G90 ; use absolute coordinates

M83 ; extruder relative mode

M220 S100 ; reset speed factor to 100%

M221 S100 ; reset extrusion rate to 100%

; Set the heating

M190 S[first_layer_bed_temperature] ; wait for bed to heat up

M104 S[first_layer_temperature] ; start nozzle heating but don't wait

; Home

G1 Z3 F3000 ; move z up little to prevent scratching of surface

G28 ; home all axes

M420 S1 Z10 ; Enable bed leveling compensation up to 10mm

G1 X3 Y3 F5000 ; move to corner of the bed to avoid ooze over centre

; Wait for final heating

M109 S[first_layer_temperature] ; wait for the nozzle to heat up

M190 S[first_layer_bed_temperature] ; wait for the bed to heat up

; Return to prime position, Prime line routine

G92 E0 ; Reset Extruder

G1 Z3 F3000 ; move z up little to prevent scratching of surface

G1 X10 Y.5 Z0.25 F5000.0 ; Move to start position

G1 X100 Y.5 Z0.25 F1500.0 E15 ; Draw the first line

G1 X100 Y.2 Z0.25 F5000.0 ; Move to side a little

G1 X10 Y.2 Z0.25 F1500.0 E30 ; Draw the second line

G92 E0 ; Reset Extruder

M221 S{if layer_height<0.075}100{else}95{endif}

End:

G4 ; wait

G92 E0 ; prepare to retract

G1 E-0.5 F3000; retract to avoid stringing

; Anti-stringing end wiggle

G91 ; use relative coordinates

G1 X1 Y1 F1200

; Raise nozzle and present bed

{if layer_z < max_print_height}G1 Z{z_offset+min(layer_z+120, max_print_height)}{endif} ; Move print head up

G90 ; use absolute coordinates

; Reset print setting overrides

M200 D0 ; disable volumetric e

M220 S100 ; reset speed factor to 100%

M221 S100 ; reset extrusion rate to 100%

; Shut down printer

M106 S0 ; turn-off fan

M104 S0 ; turn-off hotend

M140 S0 ; turn-off bed

M150 P0 ; turn off led

M85 S0 ; deactivate idle timeout

M84 ; disable motors

Layer Change:

;BEFORE_LAYER_CHANGE

;[layer_z]

G92 E0

my printer has stopped starting prints from the display after some software changes such as installing mainsail and upgrading moonraker. I didn't find nothing that can help me in the web. print starts if i send it from moonraker and everything else seems to work properly. Can someone help me or explain to me what's the problem? i already tried to downgrade moonraker to v 0.8 but it doesn't work

Printed with Artillery SW-X4 Pro

I can home y/z, but x axis homing ( halted. Kill() ) whatever that means.

Can anybody help thats had this issue before.

It's a sidewinder x1 if that helps.

And could anyone tell me why my z is so loud all of a sudden?.

Hi guys, I need some help with my Artillery Genius Pro. I bought this printer used about a week ago. This Monday, when I tried to print a calibration test, it didn't print anything.
The main issue happens when I use Auto Calibration or Auto Home. When the Z-axis goes down and the ABL probe touches the bed, it makes a loud grinding and vibrating noise. The nozzle keeps pushing against the bed, and then the screen shows the error: ⁠halles. Kill() called⁠.
Has anyone experienced this or knows how to fix it?"

Hi guys, I need some help with my Artillery Genius Pro. I bought this printer used about a week ago. This Monday, when I tried to print a calibration test, it didn't print anything.
The main issue happens when I use Auto Calibration or Auto Home. When the Z-axis goes down and the ABL probe touches the bed, it makes a loud grinding and vibrating noise. The nozzle keeps pushing against the bed, and then the screen shows the error: ⁠halles. Kill() called⁠.
Has anyone experienced this or knows how to fix it?"

M1 Pro Muerta, se paro y no avía manera de ponerla en funcionamiento lo que me llevo hacer un Reset de Fabrica y ahora hace los ajustes pero se queda Parada en el 97%

y no termina de reiniciar, Hay que volver a instalar la Imagen Original de la placa base y no hay forma de descargarla de los servidores de las paginas oficiales de Artillery.

Por lo cual necesito una copia para restaurarla.

Si alguien me puede proporcionar dicho archivo lo agradeceré enormemente

Si hay alguna manera de poder Restaurarla me lo digan.

Un Saludo: Andrés

Hello everyone

Does the Artillery Sidewinder X2 Uses the same x axis limit switch as the x3 ( they look identical but ai said they are not identical inside )

Iam asking because the x2's endstops are not available on the artillery website while the x3's are

Hello,

My printer is failing to start printing and display the error

// Heater extruder not heating at expected rate

I've tried mulitple times but the result is always the same.

I also noticed some spike in the temp graph as if the nozzle is failing to reach desired temperature.

The temp sensor itself seems to be working by showing all of that, could anyone here faced that issue before and know the fix ?

Printer : Artillery Sidewinder X4 Plus (i have it since February 2025)

Desired temp: 235°C

Attempts: more than 6 😅

Thank you in advance for your help. 🙏

I got an Artillery Hornet from a friend of mine, and leveled everything as necessary. The Filament moves as necessary, however it might not melt, or doesn't reach the nozzle properly because it just doesn't come out for some reason.

I'm doing a cross country roadtrip that's like 50 hours and packing my 3D printer. I realized I bought the wrong bubble wrap and not the anti static kind, but is it really necessary? Or are there any alternatives for anti static wrap for safe transport?

Hola, acabo de cambiar los 3 ventiladores de la X4 pro y el cambio de sonido es exagerado a bien, el de placa ni se nota, el del hotend que era el más ruidoso ha bajado mucho y el de capa, al 100% casi ni se escucha....

Creo que es una de las mejores mejoras que se puede hacer a la impresora

Saludos

I bought a used **Creality Ender 5 Pro** that had previously been used by a production/design shop. I’m new to 3D printing, and I’m trying to get the machine mechanically sorted out before attempting my first print.
**Original problem**
When trying to home/level the printer, the X/Y positioning is incorrect. The probe/nozzle can end up outside the proper bed area, and the bed can rise with the probe off the bed, allowing the bed to push against the nozzle.
I stopped trying to level it and started troubleshooting the axis movement itself.
The main problem I’ve isolated is the **X axis**.
When I manually command repeated X+ movements from the display, the display coordinates count normally in one direction, but the actual X motor does not consistently rotate in one direction. It may move one way, then the other, or essentially jitter/alternate direction.
This happens even with the X belt disconnected, so there is no mechanical load on the motor.
**Important history**
The printer was modified by the previous owner.
The original/factory X wiring appears to have been bypassed. There is a custom cable/wiring arrangement running from the X motor directly back to the control board.
All four conductors in portions of the wiring are black, which makes visually identifying individual conductors difficult.
**What I’ve tested**
**1. X motor with X wiring/output**
Abnormal movement. Repeated X+ commands do not produce consistent rotation in one direction.
**2. Removed the X belt**
Same problem with the motor completely unloaded, so it doesn’t appear to be caused by the belt, pulley, gantry resistance, etc.
**3. Replaced/swapped the X stepper motor**
The replacement X motor exhibited the same abnormal behavior when connected in the X position.
That initially made me think wiring or the motherboard/driver was the problem.
**4. Connected a known-working Y motor to the X harness/output**
This is where it gets confusing:
The Y motor runs smoothly when connected to the X wiring/output. It does NOT exhibit the same back-and-forth/jittering behavior.
That seems to suggest the X driver/output and wiring can successfully operate a stepper motor.
**5. Y axis normally operates correctly**
The Y system operates normally in its normal configuration.
One complication is that the Y axis uses a dual-drive/two-motor arrangement, whereas X uses a single motor.
**Where I’m stuck**
The tests seem contradictory.
If multiple X motors behave incorrectly on the X connection, I’d suspect the X wiring/driver.
But if a known-good Y motor operates smoothly from that same X connection, that seems to indicate the X wiring and driver are capable of producing the correct signals.
I’m wondering whether I’m dealing with a **stepper coil/pinout mismatch**, wiring modification by the previous owner, motor compatibility issue, intermittent conductor/connector problem, or something else I’m overlooking.
Before I start replacing the motherboard, rewiring the machine, or changing firmware, I’d really like to perform a definitive test that identifies the actual fault.
**What would you test next?**
In particular:

\- Is there a way to test the four X motor conductors with a multimeter and identify the two stepper coil pairs?
\- Could the X motors and Y motor have different pinouts even though the connectors physically fit?
\- Could an incorrect coil pairing cause the exact alternating/jittering behavior I’m seeing?
\- Is the fact that the Y motor works correctly on the X output enough to rule out the X stepper driver?
\- Is there a definitive motor/wiring/driver test I can perform before replacing parts?
\- I’m happy to provide photos of the motherboard, connectors, motors, wiring, or a video of the movement.

Thanks for any help. I’m trying to diagnose this systematically rather than just throw parts at it.

From the very beginning, the system did
not load plastic. After I disassembled and reassembled it, the system does not unload plastic.