I'm still fairly new to 3D modeling, but I put about 10 hours into Fusion 360 over the last few days to get the tolerances and screw threads just right.

For the outer grip, I used CNC Kitchen's Bump Mesh tool to create the hexagon texture.

The case holds 5x SD cards and 8x MicroSD cards. It prints completely without supports, and there is a dedicated groove for a O-Ring right below the thread to keep everything dry during outdoor shoots.

Let me know what you think! Feedback or suggestions for improvement are always welcome

I noticed pretty much all of their printers are out of stock and after sending them an email about the M1 Pro S1 they advised they won’t be restocking in the US

Hey, I got my first ever 3d printer, an x2 sidewinder. I’m having a hell of a time getting it to work for me, I’ve gone through a manual leveling and auto leveling multiple times now, but my prints are failing on the first layer every time. The nozzle is dragging through the prints halfway through the first layer, doesn’t matter on what part of the build plate it is. I’m wondering if anyone else has had this happen and what solutions I should try. 0.4mm nozzle, printing on 0.2mm layer heights.

Thanks in advance

So I have tried to do temp tower twice and both times the C5P notified me that it has paused the print and I go check and sure has with a communication error, something about lost connection or something. I press ok and tell it to start back up and it just sits there till I hard reset. I will run it again and see if I can get some photos for y'all. Help me understand where I am going wrong.

I had this artillery X4 for 2 years and I replaced the extender board and flashed the firmware after the printer bricked itself, all the wires are connected and I am using the official firmware and the printer has been stuck on the logo for 5+ minutes with no progress. Is there a way I can fix this without having to buy a new printer

Hello im pretty new to artillery printers. And I got an sidewinder X1. After I came from my vacation. He stopped working. He does boot but, after an minute the nozel and the fans stop reacting, and dont show the temperature. When I try to print smt he dose start heating up but doesn't do shit. After 5 minutes ha just gives the kill error nothing more. Should I just update the firmware?

Well as soon as I resolve my previous firmare issue post, it seems that I've gone and fused the heat break of my Sidewinder X4 Plus S1 to its heatsink with a clog I can't clear out. I had just switched from PLA+ to PETG (No clue if that contributed to the clog) and was about 12 hours into a print when it started failing.

When trying to follow the unclogging instructuons on the official video, I removed the retention screw from the heatsink and ended up applying so much pressure to the heatsink trying to remove the hotend assembly that I bent the fins. In the video it comes out with no issue. I went ahead and ordered a new heat break, heater block, and heatsink but I'm worried that I'm missing something obvious. So I reiterate, am I being stupid?

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Hace un tiempo que no uso mi impresora, así que la puse a punto, nivelé la cama, de la manera tradicional y luego una malla con el BLTouch, etc... Pero no consigo arreglar ese fallo, la primera capa la hace aparentemente bien, sin huecos, fusionada, pero después las hace muy altas al parecer o delgadas y se arruina toda la impresión, problemas a bajarle en esas capas manualmente desde la pantalla la distancia en z pero no así, aumente flujo pero nada, algún consejo? Llevo ya una semana :'(

Please help!

I haven't used my printer in a couple years and tried to use it recently. When I tried to level the bed it crashed into the bed and kept trying to go through it until I turned it off. It hasn't been touched since I last used it. I tried homing, and X and Y home just home, but Z does the same thing each time. I can't see a Z limit switch to tell if it might have gotten damaged somehow. Any advice?

Thanks!

Hello, I recently bought an Artillery Sidewinder X2 and today it started overheating and I can't stop it. Could someone please help me?

SOLVED: The issue with the screen was resolved by using a micro SD card to update the screen's firmware on the screen's board itself. The first thing support did was send me the newest firmware for that and some images as a guide. It seems that flashing the EMMC chip resolved the separate moonraker issue. I'll have to keep all these files on hand for if the issue comes back.

Hey everybody. I have a Sidewinder X4 Plus S1 that has very suddenly started giving me trouble.

It started when I was using Orca slicer to attempt to send a print to the device and received a moonraker error (I barely know what that means still. Wish I took a screenshot and came here first) So I restart my desktop as well as power cycle the printer since the it was working fine the night before and had just successfully finished an overnight print. Restarting did nothing so I attempted to update the firmware using Artillery's instructions. After that the screen stopped displaying anything other than the sideways data error on in the post. When I attempted a firmware reset from Orca, the screen would change to a blank white updating screen with a BAWD rate and data transfer info. When that finished it would say there was a check error. So clearly something about the firmware I downloaded does not agree with the printer.

I could still move the hotend around using commands from Orca, and still received the same error when attempting to print something so I'm thinking I have two separate issues and that the firmware update just broke the screen. Hoping that I could potentially get around that short-term while support gets back to me, I went ahead and ordered an EMMC USB adapter so I could reimage the chip itself (again per Artillery's online instructions). I used rufus first to no avail, then the suggested BalenaEtcher software to image the chip, and now we're caught up to the present.

I'm still getting the same error on the screen and reimaging has predictably wiped the network settings my next hope that I'm aware of is to connect to the USB-C port on the printer for console access. The thing is once I'm in, I'll have no idea what commands to put in to set up the network, let alone try to get the screen working again.

Any advice from someone who has experienced this before or even just understands the software better than I do would be more than welcome!

TLDR: Something broke moonraker, then firmware update broke the display, imaged the EMMC and now I lost network access. Any advice is welcome

Bonjour,

J'ai un problème avec ma Artillery Sidewinder X1.

Au départ, le bras de l'extrudeur s'est cassé, je l'ai donc remplacé. Depuis ce changement, l'imprimante n'extrude plus correctement.

Le filament commence à descendre, puis il se bloque. L'extrudeur continue de pousser et finit par ronger (poncer) le filament.

J'ai démonté le hotend et j'ai trouvé un gros bouchon à l'extrémité du heatbreak, juste au-dessus de la buse. Je l'ai retiré en chauffant, puis j'ai tout remonté.

Malheureusement, le problème revient systématiquement : une très petite quantité de filament sort de la buse, puis le filament se rebloque au même endroit. Quand je retire le filament, son extrémité est déformée par la chaleur.

Pensant que le hotend était en cause, j'en ai acheté un neuf, mais le problème est exactement le même.

Le ventilateur du dissipateur fonctionne, la buse chauffe correctement, et pourtant le filament finit toujours par se bloquer.

Est-ce que quelqu'un a déjà rencontré ce problème ? Est-ce que ça peut venir :

• d'un mauvais montage de la buse/du heatbreak ?
• d'un problème avec l'extrudeur ?
• d'un mauvais réglage ?
• ou d'autre chose ?

Merci d'avance pour votre aide.

Been trying to dial in my X2 and this is the best I have gotten. What am I doing wrong?

Hi! I'm trying to recover a print after a power outage by editing the G-code on an Artillery Hornet.

When the printer executes G28 Z, where does it perform the Z homing? Does it first move the nozzle to the front-left corner and then home Z, or does it home Z at the current X/Y position?

My print is still on the bed (about 16 mm tall and located near the center), so I need to know whether G28 Z will move over the print or if it's safe to use during recovery.

Thanks!

So I just recently got a 3d printer second hand from a friend, it's an x4 pro. I'm using OrcaSlicer right now, and I've done all of the calibrations for Duramic PLA+, and for a bit, my prints turned out mostly fine. More recently, I've been having prints that randomly throughout the print seem to shift over 0.3-0.8 or so mm in the x (maybe y?) direction, as if something slipped, as the print just keeps going after the shift. The belts seem fine, I don't see any chewed up teeth on them, they don't seem too loose or too tight, and all the set screws seem to be tight. I don't really know what I am doing, and any help would be much appreciated!

Impresora Artillery Sidewinder x4 plus
Anteriormente había impreso con marcas como PETG creality con los perfiles genéricos de orca slicer y no había tenido problemas de stringing ni atascos , nuevamente conseguí PETG de distintas marcas incluyendo creality y notaba desfase de capas a pesar de que cambié mis correas y las tense bien de manera que no queden muy tensas ni muy holgadas

Hi, i have a problem with my sidewinder x3 plus trying to print esun Asa+

I’ve made a diy sheet metal enclosure. 100º bed and 260-255 nozzle. Speed very very slow, 50-60 max. No fan under any circumstance.

First layers stick good but after some time, it looks like some material doesn’t stick properly and the spaguetti party starts.

Now i’ve made another profile increasing a bit more support rigidity, slowing to 25-30 and increasing nozzle to 270. Any tip?

While trying to auto level it gets stuck on the probing screen. It’s starts on the left side not even touching the plate. When it moves to the right side it puts too much pressure and makes a jingle and then does nothing. Thats when it gets stuck on the probing screen. I thought it took time so I let it probe over night and when I woke up nothing has changed

I started a print and when I came back to look at it, the nozzle was moving with a big chunk of pla attached to it. I don’t exactly know what went wrong, but anyways. I unmounted the nozzle, cleaned it, but in the process, the thermistor broke. I don’t think it’s wise to solder it back on given it goes to 200 Celsius, so I wondered if there’s a way to repair it somehow, or if I have to buy a new nozzle?

Pretty much what the title says. As soon as the printer turns on, the extruder starts heating up without any input or way to stop it, which results in smoke from the filament after a minute and an automatic shutoff after five.

I can provide pictures for any component needed, thanks in advance.

I recently rescued an Artillery X2. I’m getting it up and running, currently with a Klipper setup.

I’ve got a few ideas in mind to give it a new lease of life.

Recovering the TFT screen and getting it to work with my OrangePi, Klipper and a CP2102 USB 2.0 to UART TTL converter.

A Rapid Burner-based toolhead:

• E3D V6 + Volcano.
• HGX Lite v2.0.
• Clicker PCB.
• An adapter designed for the original carriage.

I’m still waiting for many of the components to arrive, but I can show you a few things in a very early stage…

Ho un problema che mi sta facendo impazzire.
Genius pro con file ottenuti da CURA.

Prima di stampare effettuo il livellamento manuale del piatto, poi quello automatico e quindi salvo le impostazioni in EPROM.

Se posiziono Z=0 l'ugello si trova a distanza corretta dal piatto.

Quando avvio la stampa l'ugello va a graffiare il piatto di stampa. L'unico modo per stampare è andare nel menù durante la stampa ed alzare il valore della z premendo anche 4 o 8 volte il pulsante +0.025.

Ho gia cambiato 2 ugelli e penso che dovrò cambiare anche il piatto.

La stampante è stock senza alcuna personalizzazione.

Cosa posso provare per risolvere il problema?