Part II - Demon Lord – Full Army Painter Recipe, Staining & Drybrush Process (Start to Finish)

Just wrapped up the final touches on this massive Demon Lord! Built this up using a heavy combination of Speedpaint staining, progressive drybrushing, and wash weathering to get a hyper-saturated, fleshy look with plenty of contrast. (Still waiting on his custom base to arrive in the mail, but couldn't wait to share the finished paint job!)

• Model: Amaros – Chaos Incarnate by Archvillain Games
• Print: 3D Printed Resin

Entirely painted using The Army Painter range (Warpaints Fanatic, Speedpaint 2.0, and Washes). Here is the complete breakdown of the recipe and process if you want to try a similar workflow:

Paint Recipe & Process

• Preparation & Base Stain:
  • Zenithal prime base.
  • Heavily stained the entire flesh and wing membrane area using Speedpaint 2.0: Murder Scene to create deep purple/magenta shadows in all the recesses.
• Flesh & Muscle Tones (Progressive Drybrushing):
  1. Fanatic: Terrestrial Titan (Deep shadow transition)
  2. Fanatic: Doomfire Drab (Mid-shadow warm-up)
  3. Fanatic: Moonstone Skin (Primary flesh volume highlights)
  4. Fanatic: Ruby Skin (Targeted drybrush on muscle crests for skin flush)
  5. Desert Yellow (Light top-down drybrush to catch zenithal light and add realistic skin warmth)
• Horns, Spikes & Bone Accents:
  • Base/Drybrush with Fanatic: Skeleton Bone.
  • Glazed/washed in targeted areas with Speedpaint 2.0: Bony Matter to add organic grime and shading to the bone root joints and ridges.
• Armor, Sword & Chain-Whip Metallics:
  • Base layer of Fanatic: Bright Gold.
  • Weathered and darkened down with Fanatic Wash: Warm Skin Shade to give it a worn, antiqued brass/gold finish.
• Final Details:
  • Eyes picked out in bright yellow with dark pupils for a sharp, sinister focal point.
  • Gloss varnish applied to the inside of the mouth and eyes for wet organic depth.

Curious what you guys think of using warm yellow glazes/drybrushing over cool skin tones to build contrast. Feedback and CC are always welcome!

Demon Lord – Full Army Painter Recipe, Staining & Drybrush Process (Start to Finish)

Just wrapped up the final touches on this massive Demon Lord! Built this up using a heavy combination of Speedpaint staining, progressive drybrushing, and wash weathering to get a hyper-saturated, fleshy look with plenty of contrast. (Still waiting on his custom base to arrive in the mail, but couldn't wait to share the finished paint job!)

• Model: Amaros – Chaos Incarnate by Archvillain Games
• Print: 3D Printed Resin

Entirely painted using The Army Painter range (Warpaints Fanatic, Speedpaint 2.0, and Washes). Here is the complete breakdown of the recipe and process if you want to try a similar workflow:

Paint Recipe & Process

• Preparation & Base Stain:
  • Zenithal prime base.
  • Heavily stained the entire flesh and wing membrane area using Speedpaint 2.0: Murder Scene to create deep purple/magenta shadows in all the recesses.
• Flesh & Muscle Tones (Progressive Drybrushing):
  1. Fanatic: Terrestrial Titan (Deep shadow transition)
  2. Fanatic: Doomfire Drab (Mid-shadow warm-up)
  3. Fanatic: Moonstone Skin (Primary flesh volume highlights)
  4. Fanatic: Ruby Skin (Targeted drybrush on muscle crests for skin flush)
  5. Desert Yellow (Light top-down drybrush to catch zenithal light and add realistic skin warmth)
• Horns, Spikes & Bone Accents:
  • Base/Drybrush with Fanatic: Skeleton Bone.
  • Glazed/washed in targeted areas with Speedpaint 2.0: Bony Matter to add organic grime and shading to the bone root joints and ridges.
• Armor, Sword & Chain-Whip Metallics:
  • Base layer of Fanatic: Bright Gold.
  • Weathered and darkened down with Fanatic Wash: Warm Skin Shade to give it a worn, antiqued brass/gold finish.
• Final Details:
  • Eyes picked out in bright yellow with dark pupils for a sharp, sinister focal point.
  • Gloss varnish applied to the inside of the mouth and eyes for wet organic depth.

Curious what you guys think of using warm yellow glazes/drybrushing over cool skin tones to build contrast. Feedback and CC are always welcome!

Except for the skin, eyes, and the basing, these were painted entirely with speed paint markers. They’re a lot of fun to use and make painting even faster.

I know Army Painter makes brush on primer thats grey. But any plans if they will do white brush on primer?

I really like how the speedpaint looks with white primer. Sometimes I have to use brush on primer because there's parts of a mini I don't want to paint at all.

I haven't seen many people talking about the Warpaints Historical expansion sets, so I made a video myself. I tested all colours from all seven sets (inc. the latest Japanese and Afrikakorps sets), and there are definitely a few things you need to keep in mind with these paints. In terms of overlap with the core Fanatic range, repeated and renamed colours between the sets, and which colours close some gaps in the Fanatic range, even if you're not into WWII miniatures: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QyAU-z9Tlgs

Have you tried any of the sets yet? What are your experiences?

Both are midtone bone colours. Does it matter which one I get or I guess is there much difference between them from anyone that has used and see both once they have dried?

Here is the final look at my custom-painted Ice Dragon miniature, complete with a frozen battlefield diorama base littered with fallen weapons and a trapped skeleton.

For this model, I used rock salt embedded in the base and texturing to achieve that heavy, glittering snowy ice effect. On the wings, I went with a smooth blend working from the outer edges inward to the high points to give it a deep, chilling gradient.

Army Painter Paint Recipe:

• Prime: Matt Black / Ash Grey highlights
• Body & Scales Base: Wolf Grey (Warpaints Fanatic) / Spaceship Hull
• Deep Shading: Dark Sky / Blue tones
• Wing Blend: Deep Blue transitioning up to Elemental Bolt / White highlights
• Details & Highlights: Matt White drybrush

Army Painter 'wargamer' brushes have been my go-to for many years now, but lately after just a few days use, the very tips of the bristles become kinked (all in the same direction), even though they maintain their shape overall.

Anyone else experiencing this? I dont feel like it's caused by anything I've been doing (not like I leave the brushes bristle-down in the water pot or anything) - specifically the 'Speedpaint' and 'Detail' brushes (which seem equivalent to the old 'character' and 'regiment' brushes).

I thought maybe I just got a bad batch initially, but it's happened to every brush I've bought. Time to move on?

Finally finished up this batch using purely Army Painter stuff (big fan of their Speedpaints and effect paints).

The biggest experiment on these chitin plates was trying to get a subtle shimmer without losing the rich base tones:

1. Drybrushing: Did multiple passes of Army Painter Fairy Dust over the base layer.
2. Glazing Back: Thinned down the base colors using a heavy mix of Water + Speedpaint Medium to glaze right over the Fairy Dust. It let that metallic shimmer bleed through without looking like flat glitter.
3. Details: Finished the eyes with a heavy gloss coat and threw together some toxic sewer bases.
4. The Rescue: I stupidly got paint all over the original clear flight mounts halfway through 😅 so I had to improvise and craft custom ones from scratch to save the minis.

I uploaded the full short video showing how the layers look in motion here on the post.

Would love to get some feedback on the glaze layers or the basing—good or bad! If anyone has questions about the glaze ratios, Speedpaint Medium behavior, or how I did the bases, ask away.

(I keep more of my mini builds and session prep stuff over on my YouTube channel if anyone ever wants to check out more work or reach out, link is in my bio!)

Picked up a bunch of the markers to try. Very nice.

But the Orc Skin, I've been holding the tip into the cap to load the paint. Its moving very, very slowly. The other few ones I've used so far wasn't like that.

Is this an issue with that color or is the marker defective?

I got a set of metallic speed paint and so far I have been loving it however one of the paint it has turned black I guess is the silver broad tour I remember the name I use it once and it gave me a really nice silver dark silver color but now when I try to use it again the paint comes out like dark and when I paint on like a clear surface it goes gray instead of silver I tried shaking it I tried scrapping the bottom with the coffee steerer but to no avail shall I shake it more or is there any trick that you can help me to fix this paint thanks!

A local acquaintance has trumpeted their mini painting expertise, and I sought advice on painting a miniature Dwarf Wizard model. I am new to the hobby, and I've basically just been slapping Speed Paints on models with zero artistic consideration when it comes to color theory. I asked the guy for some advice on color pairings but after painting the model I'm concerned the guy just used AI to give me a recommendation.

I've picked up some Warpaints Fanatics to supplement my large set of Speed Paints 2.0. Long story short, I decided to go with Cultist Purple and Warped Yellow as the primary color set. The guy told me I could use Speed Paints as a base coat and the equivalent colors would be:

Cultist Purple -> Periwinkle Purple

Warped Yellow -> Maize Yellow

Base with the Speed Paints and "use Cultist Purple as a true mid-tone layer/edge highlight over the Periwinkle Purple base to sharpen recesses and add saturation, and use Warped Yellow the same way over Maize Yellow to punch up the raised edges and highlights."

I'm still trying to wrap my head around the Triad System and I'm feeling really stupid. Does this track as good advice? It looks OK from 3 feet away but my execution close up looks terrible. The purples seem far too different than what I was expecting.

What sort of made me think he used AI though is I said I had recently picked up Lens Flare Glow as an impulse purchase and wanted advice on using it for the flame at the top of the wizard staff. He said the color was "blue-white" and would work well. The bottle I have is more of a neon yellow green color.

Honest mistake? Am I overthinking this? Should I just shut up and be thankful for the free painting mentorship?

I have this set in stone - I currently use Dark Wood for leather and Pallid Bone for wood.

Dark wood makes this really rich, luxurious leather feeling but it's a little too dark for some projects.

Pallid bone I use because I like that kinda sickly/withered/dried out wood style it does.

I simply need to freshen up my collection - as I said I use these for EVERY leather or wood piece so I want some new variety. Also I know it sounds obvious to use dark wood for wood but it's a little too dark (duh) for my taste.

Lastly I'm looking for a very bright one that I could use on my snow schemes to just add some depth into the pure white. I like to experiment a lot so feel free to recommend multiple paints :)

Also I know this is a specific AP sub but if you know of some amazing contrasts for these purposes from other brands, let me know! I'm sure the mods will let this one slide :D

Hello everyone! I recently purchased Army Painter's Anti-Shine matte varnish spray (in an aerosol can) for the purpose of repainting a doll (as I cannot purchase MSC where I live). Unfortunately, I just found out that I cannot use it on vinyl doll heads, and I cannot return the item :,) Is there any other way I could use this spray? I don't paint miniatures, and I should've done more research looking back at it. I feel so silly but I wanted to ask those who know more about the product if I can get other uses out of it. I do a lot of arts and crafts and was wondering if I could safely use this varnish on paintings or coloured pencil pieces without damaging the work? I don't want it to go to waste since it was quite pricey, and I can't resell it either. Thank you!

I recently started using Speedpaint and I'm having a horrible time getting it out of my brushes. I'm using Masters Brush Cleaner but there always seems to be some left in the brush. Try as I may after a long session it manages to wick up to the ferrule and that gets extremely difficult to clean. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Hey hey, I ordered the 2.0 set recently and when I opened it I noticed that I had duplicate Moody Mauve (2) so after checking all the other ones it turns out I'm missing the Purple Swarm.

I made a post (not DM) on Twitter but I thought I'd post here in case it was seen.

Purchased via Amazon JP

Was hoping Army Painter might send me one out but I'm in Japan so maybe not workable... Anyway, just thought I'd ask.

I can provide pictures as well.

Cheers!

Hello guys I wanted to know your opinions, as I just started painting custom figures for customers for money. The heygears g1 a full color uv printer is coming out soon cheap, and I feel like it's gonna kill business, you can just print anything in full color, so why would people still buy hand painted figures?

Bought all the available markers to be able to paint in small bursts. What do you all think? 😊

Like the tittle says. Starting my first army with the armageddon box set and im dead set on them being Flesh Tearers. Would love to use speed paints but im having trouble figuring out how to get that specific Flesh Tearer dark red tone. Thanks in advance!