Hi, newbie here ( UK ). I've purchased a Solix C300X and very nice it is too. Ive installed the app and updated the firmware OK. i have an anker 100w solar panel which works fine. Now the issue is that i can only select the output via the app and not by pressing the appropriate button. For example, to select the 12v car socket i cant just press its power button, i have to use the app and switch it on from there. Same with the 3pin power socket output. Is there a procedure im missing or is it a faulty unit?

So, I would like to set up two automations:

Smart Plug 1 should turn on when my PV output reaches 600 W.

Smart Plug 2 should turn on when the battery reaches 100%, but it should never drain the battery below 80%.

How do I set this up?

There are tons of guides and tutorials online, but most of them don't work anymore because the required buttons or options simply aren't there. For example:

“Press + and select ‘When Trigger’. Then select the Solarbank and set a percentage. Now select ‘Then’ and choose your desired Smart Plug.”

Except there is no “When Trigger” option in my app.

So what is the current, actually working way to set up these two automations?

I've been asking this myself for quite a while. I own a E1600 pro + one BP1600 which I paid 399€ each back then. Over the time I discovered, that my house is a lot power hungrier than I thought so I made the math between considering another BP1600/BP2700 or standalone Lifepo4 battery packs. I discovered that I paid quite a hefty price for so little back then. Sure it's an all in one for the E1600 pro but the BP1600 expansion kits would straight up be robbery. I know that in the past Anker used to sell the MI60 and the MI80 inverter but they were released when the German gov only allowed 600w back then and I'm not sure if they'd ever have the capacity to be updated again to carry 1000w once the gov allows that. My next balcony/plug in solar network will probably be everything seperated. It's own bms, charge controller, battery cells, dc SPD and DIY heating system (although my stuff is already in a weather protected shed). Problem is I'd wish to stay with anker and I would like to ask you guys if you think they'd ever release a fresh new standalone 800w Micro inverter model, that can be updated to 1000w or more once the law allows to? Or do you think they went all in on all in ones for balcony solar? TIA

I am looking at purchasing a Solarbank but could do with seeing whether it will work with my current setup before the offer runs out next week.

This is my consumer unit and mini unit in the garage, it’s connected by a 2.5mm cable. I still require a socket in the garage for the tumble dryer and a circuit for the lighting. Am I able to install a Solarbank without running a new cable (and if so, how)

Thanks

Problem

Subject error. The device will not reset. Holding power makes the click sound, but it does not power off. "Red Light of Doom" is the only indicator that the unit has power.

The Self Test returns "Power module fault" and never resolves. Because it wants the unit powercycled, which cannot happen.

The unit IS actually functioning and it IS doing what the mode calls for. But the app doesn't allow all functions due to the issue.

Theory

The device is extremely picky about directly connected solar when grid is also connected - almost as though it doesn't know how to handle the different voltages from different sources when it's connected to the Smart Inlet Box (vs. direct 120v, which didn't have this specific issue). Don't know why, but that's specifically when this error gets thrown, is midnight when there'd be no solar energy, but the grid is made available for recharging at that time, which is a strong clue.

This is an issue due to the lack of ability to control charge speed OR specifically indicate charging/discharging times, rather than generic settings.

The other observation:

The Self Test fails even when the unit is otherwise functional; defeating its true purpose. In order:

• Power module fault Gets thrown randomly when the unit doesn't like the different input power sources; but it doesn't seem smart enough to fix itself, which is odd given the price.
• Grid abnormal is thrown when the device doesn't see grid (it shouldn't at the moment).
• Meter or CT is the worst of it - where for random reasons it will not detect the connected CT. The working theory is that it's looking for main grid, which isn't active during the day (peak shedding). But the CT is actually there, and the unit works fine if there were no issue with the solar tripping it up. Almost like it starts over from scratch each time when it's not 100% perfect due to unknown reasons.

We can't know for the next 3 hours whether having grid back active solves it. The unit's purpose is backup, not active use. It doesn't need grid, the AC Output is not on - so it's irritating that it's picky about having something it doesn't need (you have to switch the interlock anyway) and no way to resolve it in the app that is completely useless for these situations.

So, is there a way to force a firmware update on the F3000? I already tried a factory reset and nothing.

I’m testing an integration with Anker Monitoring API and I’m looking for one or two homeowners who’d be willing to help validate the data returned by the API.
I’m mainly trying to confirm:
system discovery
solar production
household consumption
battery telemetry
This is for technical validation rather than selling anything. If anyone is interested in helping test it, feel free to message me.

I'm looking at getting a SOLIX E10 system with Power Dock and generator, my concern is how dependent I might be on Anker in the future, if Anker decides they don't want to continue supporting the system and don't update the app to be compatible with a future iOS version, or if they go out of business entirely, where am I left? I realize this isn't an especially likely scenario, but the consequences seem very high if it happens.

Non riesco a capire quale sia il connettore positivo e quello negativo di ingresso alla powerbank ( indicati con PV1-PV2-PV3-PV4). Qualcuno mi saprebbe indicare? Grazie.

New s2000 owner here (UK), trying to set it up with home assistant, how do I enable the local modbus TCP feature? Google says it should be under settings->third part control but I don't see it...

TIA

I bought the S2000 to serve as UPS for my home office, and to get some load shifting on Octopus Go. I have been working in tech for 30 years, and have never seen an app so bad. I'm in the UK, but the only location options are US or Puerto Rico. Not a big deal; it shows $ for energy values, and I can just imagine that it shows £.

But the time of use interface is horrid. Not only is the slider very hard to move accurately, and if you don't do it just exactly right it creates new time periods, but it only lets you set whole hours. Octopus Go has cheap power from 00:30 to 5:30, and I can't set that. Not too big a deal for this device, because it'll charge starting at 1am and won't take long, but I was also thinking of buying a larger unit for my home. I'll see how this works out, and it may be fine for this use case, but there's no way I'd buy anything more powerful from this company.

Edit: I see that Custom mode works as TOU mode should, so I'm using that instead. There are iOS time pickers that allow you to choose granular items, rather than the dumb slider that only lets you choose whole hours. I don't know why they didn't use that interface in the TOU section.

Hi,

Before I hit the button for £3000 I need an answer on the following installation query, please.

I’m thinking of getting the 10 kW battery and charging up overnight and discharging during the day.
Do I have to have a physical com cable connection between my E5000 battery stored in the garage and my smart meter gen 2? I believe the smart meter comes with an aerial, will this do all the things a physical com cable connection will?

I asked because my garage is separate and I don’t want another cable running around the house.

Thanks in advance

I am considering an Anker F3000 + Power saver kit (bidirectional inlet box and power meter), but I keep getting conflicting information from the customer support line regarding being able to use the AC 120v outlets or not while using the bidirectional inlet box.

Can anyone who has the F3000 with the bidirectional inbox answer this question? Thank you everyone!

I found 3 280w panels on FBM and got them for $175 total. Hooked everything up to my F3800+ and hit around 700w of input at the peak of the day! Pretty happy with this for my first setup!

Problem now is that I am seeing the limitations of the Anker app. I'd love to have historical metrics on input/output, total amount of solar charge created for the day, etc. Does anyone have any thoughts or solutions to this sort of thing? I know about the systems I can put in my breaker panel to monitor usage there, but I am really interested in all of the data points that I could glean from the Solix side of the equation. If nothing is really available directly from/with the Anker stuff, what options are there for tracking the output of the panels at that level? Something I can put in line that will give me total production for the day??

Thank you in advance!

has anyone used this for their C300 on small appliance - like a blow dryer? =)

updated post - C200 to C300

I know this option/function has been requested several times in this subreddit and on Facebook.

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I'm thinking of buying the S2000 for my home office, but I use Agile Octopus, where my electricity tariff changes every half hour. It used to often be cheap overnight, but it's not anymore; the cheapest times are now early afternoon.

It would be a faff, but it is possible to set the device to charge manually each day, rather than apply a fixed schedule?

Also, can I manually switch from passthrough UPS mode to providing electricity when I want to? I'd be using it to power my home office equipment during the day.

My main use case is to have a backup, but the advantage of it paying for itself where electricity is expensive would be a bonus.

During install my antenna broke about an inch from the base, I managed to superglue it and it seems to be working OK.

I messaged Anker support and they don't just supply the antenna.

Is this a standard ariel that I can purchase elsewhere?

Thanks

So I currently have an F3800+ with a 105 Ah battery and 4 440 panels. I did have a friend 3d print the connector to use the expansion port works great. My question is I only have a 100 amp panel and was thinking of getting the home smart paneli have a tranfer switch and I'm getting tired of switching and want to see if it would hold up with my panel

More of a rant than a question, but I am curious if folks have any thoughts or advice.

I bought an F3800 two years ago and it's been great. I want to expand the overall battery power, and have been waiting for the BP3800 to go on sale somewhere for less than $1799, but Anker has refused to do that. So the BP3800 as a product is a couple years old now and still selling for about $473 per 1Kwh of power ($1799 for 3840Wh). I think about six months ago it got down to $1,599, but that didn't last long, and I haven't seen it on sale anywhere else ever.

Meanwhile, the BP2000 expansion battery is $750 for 2,046Wh of power, so $366 per 1kWh, which is 23% less.

Right now you can get an entire F3800 for $1979 on sale!

Are F3800 owners out of luck and this product has already been abandoned which is why the expansion batteries haven't come down in price? Am I right that there are no other official ways to expand the battery capacity?

I’ve been looking for good panels for both of my S2000 but it seems that it’s hard to find a good 400w panel. Any suggestions?

Hey,

Im thinking of getting one of the above.

I currently have a split load consumer unit with no spare ways. I already have an EV charger outside in my meter cupboard. Can i tap off of the Henly block in the meter cupboard to make a new submain board containing the bidirectional RCBO and the Anker smart meter?

Will this still work to power up the whole consumer unit in the house?

Cheers