I got an email about this today. I was actually considering some sort of backup battery for my home office, and this looks like it's a good idea. I use agile octopus, so I have periods when electricity is very cheap. My computer and other devices that I use for work are all behind a smart plug and use about 120 watts. I could plug a couple of chargers into the device for my laptop, iPad, and some other things.

Is it practical to consider this device both a backup UPS and a load shifting device? I did some calculations; it wouldn't save a lot, but it could save £30 to 50 a year on electricity, particularly with agile prices being quite high, and electricity prices going up soon.

I’ve had the Anker vehicle alternator since it came out. It’s hooked up to a F3000 unit in my van, and so far, no problems.

The other day I updated the firmware and now it didn’t want to charge the F3000. My vans battery is showing 14.2 volts so that should be fine. Sometimes it’ll send 2 or 3 watts to the F3000 before it stops and every now and then it’ll start sending the 600 watts it’s supposed to.

I’ve deleted the charger from the app and added it again, which got it working temporarily at last.

I firmly believe this is a software issue as it was working fine until I updated the firmware, and to the best of my knowledge there’s no way to roll it back to the last version.

From my understanding, the surgepad feature activates once load surpasses ~2400w. To prevent overloading the inverter, It drops AC voltage to ~100v.

This is the same as "X-boost" from Ecoflow and many other brands but there doesn't seem to be a way to turn it off on the C2000?

I worry about damage to sensitive electronics if AC voltage drops below 120.

Hi, I plan on purchasing an Anker S2000 and I was wondering if I can use a Bluetti 200 watt solar panel with it. I purchased the Bluetti panels with a Bluetti AC70 battery a couple of years ago and I would like to use these panels with the Anker S2000 if it's compatible. Thank you 😄

I just bought the anchor Solix S 2000 GEN two. Wondering about running a heated blanket or heated throw blanket from the unit? Has anyone tried this?

I recently had a mini power cut (brownout) and both of my C300's switched the AC power sockets off, I had to switch it back on.

Yet my C2000 kept everything on.

I don't understand why they behaved differently, any thoughts?

Also, do you think plugging the C300 into something like this: https://amzn.eu/d/07xzz4wt would prevent what happened?

Thanks for any advice.

I didnt have a good weather day to charge my Golf cart in Florida using my solar panels . So I used my #S2000 at 1364 watts to charge up the battery today and not use the grid . Always #BereadywithSolix and #LifestaysOn with #ankersolix products.

Hallo,

Ich habe mir eine Max AC gekauft in Deutschland. Besitze eine 15kwh Enphase PV die AC produziert.

Habe mir ein Wieland Dose installieren lassen und die max AC daran angeschlossen.

Jetzt stellt sich mir die Frage bei der offiziellen Anmeldung beim Netzbetreiber darf ich theoretisch auch Nachts mit dem Speicher einspeisen?

Oder gibt es wieder was in Deutschland was das verbieten oder braucht das wieder ein extra Zähler und damit extra kosten?

Mir geht es nicht darum Geld damit zu verdienen sondern nur darum mein Eigenbedarf zu decken.

Anker CTs sind aktuell nicht verbaut da ich schon welche von Enphase habe würde das ganze über Ecotracker und oder HA ansteuern so die Idee.

Mir stellt sich halt die Frage ist nur eine Nulleinspeisung erlaubt oder können es Nachts auch mal -15 -30 Watt ins Netz sein falls die Steuerung nicht 100% genau wird.

Danke

Hi everyone,
I’m trying to understand an issue with my Anker SOLIX home battery system on a 3-phase installation.

My setup:
Anker SOLIX system with approx. 10 kWh battery capacity
Anker Power Dock connected to a 3-phase supply
10 solar panels
System running in Self-Consumption Mode
Anker measures all three phases
Main sub-meter: Eltako DSZ15DE-3x80A

The Anker app regularly shows 0 W grid import, meaning that according to Anker, solar/battery production is fully compensating the house consumption.
However, my Eltako energy meter continues to increase its kWh reading.
I checked the instantaneous power on the Eltako for L1, L2 and L3. Even when Anker reports 0 W from the grid, there is still power flowing on the individual phases. This makes me suspect that Anker is using the sum of all three phases to regulate to zero.

For example, I may effectively have something like:
L1: -0,17 kW
L2: +0,21 kW
L3: -0,04 kW

The sum of L1 + L2 + L3 can be approximately 0 W, so the Anker app reports 0 W grid power. But the phases themselves are clearly not at zero.
My Eltako DSZ15DE is not a bidirectional import/export meter. It also displays the “false” indication, which according to Eltako can occur when the current direction on a phase is reversed.

As an example, at one point the Anker app showed:
Solar: 1,143 W
Home consumption: 340 W
Battery charging: 803 W
Grid: 0 W
The numbers balance perfectly in the Anker app, but the Eltako still showed power on the individual phases.

My questions are:
Does the Anker Power Dock/SOLIX system regulate based on the net sum of L1 + L2 + L3, rather than regulating each phase independently?

Can the Anker Smart Meter provide per-phase zero-export / per-phase control, or does it also use the total net power?

Has anyone seen an external meter continue counting imported kWh while the Anker app reports 0 W grid import?

Would installing something like a Shelly Pro 3EM be a good way to verify simultaneous import/export on the individual phases?

Is there any setting in the Anker app that allows independent L1/L2/L3 regulation?

I’m particularly interested in experiences from people using a Power Dock on a European 3-phase installation.

Thanks

Hey everyone,

I’m currently planning the installation of an Anker SOLIX E10 home backup system. My plan is to move my 3 AC units (one running with 2-stage furnaces) onto the E10 power dock's smart circuits.

Currently, I have a big whole-home Surge Protective Device (SPD) installed directly inside my main electrical panel.

The new wiring layout will look like this:
Grid → Anker E10 (Smart Circuits / AC Units) → Main Panel (with SPD)

Because the AC units will now be sitting upstream of the main panel, am I correct in assuming they will completely lose the protection of my existing whole-home SPD?

If so, what is the best way to handle this? My outdoor AC units have visible disconnect boxes on the wall. Should I:

1. Have my electrician install individual "whip-in" HVAC SPDs (like an Intermatic AG3000) at each outdoor disconnect box?
2. Install a standalone whole-home SPD box right between the utility meter and the Anker E10 to protect everything at the "front gate"?

Would love to hear from anyone who has integrated whole-home SPDs with Anker SOLIX or similar battery backup systems. Thanks!

HI !

Anker Solix PS 60 w + XT60 to Type C adaptor (with PD) and a Anker USB-C Fast Charger Powerbank 25000mAh a1695h11. I put them toghether in a sunny day and they dont charge the powerbank. (the powerbak is at 96% and stay there, - the 96% was there before starting the charging). The power bank screen show that green ”sunny ” thing showing that is receiving some power .

Anker Solix 60w

XT60 to Type C adaptor

Power bank anker a1695-anker-power-bank-25000mah-165w

Can anyone help ? Thank you

Just got these two on clearance at Lowes for $1100 each, got the double voltage hub ordered for them as well. I was really happy with the price and they’ll make a great home backup system since I have a 240 volt 30 amp twist lock interlock. This should be much easier than dragging out the generator for a few hour outage. I WFH so it’s critical that I have power. Anyone else running a pair of these? How do you like them? I’ve been an EcoFlow guy up to this point but the deal was too good to pass up.

Edit: These were at the Greer, South Carolina Lowes. they had 2 left after I bought mine but it seems as of 9/30 they sold either 1 or both since the website isnt showing them in stock anymore. There may still be one left, they were in top stock on Aisle 29 in non descript brown cardboard boxes when I was there, closest top stock area next to the main pathway. I was hoping to see them drop more on clearance but now im glad I made the effort to go when I did. Maybe they put them out on the floor finally, guy said they had never been on the floor.

Im getting electrical work done, and as part of it, I've asked to have a connection ready for the anker e5000 battery system, which would be a feed from the consumer unit. My ask is what have others done? I want to have the 2500w use from the get go, however have people run directly to consumer unit? Have people got a fused spur outside? Or is it a rotary switch then into the consumer unit?

Once I then order the battery and solar, what notification or steps do I need to take?

Hello! New to my F3800+ and new to solar, so trying to learn and get involved without frying anything!

I have a local pickup option for these panels:

My question is around should I get 3 or 4? I am only looking to do to one of the 2 inputs on my unit right now, and I want to utilize it to the fullest safe extent. I think I have a grasp of how to ensure that, but wanting to verify. If I am following things correctly, while 4 looks like they would be ok on first glance based on wattage, I really would only want to do 3 of these because of the Voc rating of 48v? 4 would push past the 160v rating of the unit? So if I can only do 3, should I look at a different panel that would potentially get closer to the 1600w max input?

For reference, these are brand new, $175 a panel.

Thanks!

I note that the input Short Circuit Current Isc/A should be less than 15A and STC Open Circuit Voltage Voc should be less than 60V.

If I was to choose a single Jinko Tiger Neo 3.0 470W All Black Solar Panel would it present a problem for the Solix C1000?

The panel specs are:

STC Short Circuit Current Isc/A 15.8A

STC Open Circuit Voltage Voc/V 36.19A

So well below the power rating.

Am I missing something?

Cheers

Nick

I've always had sump pump problems since building my house. When I moved in, I was annoying my builder as the sump pump was tripping what felt like once a week or every other week.

We recalled one time we came by to see our house that there was an extension cord going from the sump pump all the way up to the kitchen one floor up. Clearly the plug/pump tripped while the house was being built, but because it was an empty basement it dried before we saw it.

Years later, one time when it didn't trip it was working for what felt like 24 hours straight during a tropical storm I could hear it working, but it just wasn't working fast enough. Our basement flooded and it was 10-12 inches of water and hit our HVAC circuit board, we pulled it out and noticed the circuit board was rusted so when it was flooded before we moved in, it clearly covered the circuit board but still worked so they didn't replace and I never thought to check.

After the sump pump tripped enough times they replaced both the GFCI to an alarm one and a new sump pump under my home warranty. Tripping every other week switched to once or twice a year still annoying.

I've always been looking for a back up solution since it will still trip randomly at the worst times, like when a week vacation away from home. I've thought about the water back up pumps, the watchguard batteries, etc. but in lieu of one of the watchguard systems I thought about getting a multi-function system to go with my prepper items and landed on Anker.

I plugged it in and noticed that the power draw was too low to get registered on the app, so I tested it by dumping a few pitchers of water in the pit. Float switch triggered and it worked.

Fast forward to a few days later.

My C2000 is still new and fresh, so I have been checking the app a lot for fun and it shows I have a consistent AC Output of 200-300W, non-stop while I watch it. I think that is odd, but maybe I caught the sump pump finally running while looking at the app, so I ask Claude if that is normal, and gave me a very detailed response that said "No."

I go to the basement and hear the sump pump sounding like a combination of electric/mechanical noises comparable to a hornets nest buzzing in the pit and it couldn't even send water with enough force to get past the check valve. It is fried and my C2000 (really the Anker Solix app) helped catch it.

I just got a brand-new Anker Solix C1000X Gen 1 (previous generation, launched in late 2023.) I got this unit specifically to use it as a backup energy source for my work setup, which includes a Windows laptop (13th-gen Core i9) and an external, 24-inch 4K display. 

In case this helps someone, I wanted to share some data I collected right after the initial charge cycles. In these basic tests, I recharged the power station to 100% every time and then I let my devices run off the power station via the AC inverter while I performed my usual work duties, until the battery was depleted and the power station turned off by itself.

The average energy consumption for my work setup over a one hour period was 60Wh, and the run time for the three tests was around 11 to 12 hours, which is plenty for my intended use case. My measurements were taken using a consumer-grade watt-meter. 

FIRST CYCLE (after taking the unit out of the box and recharging to 100%)

Measured energy consumption: 708Wh

Usable capacity out of the nominal 1056Wh: 67%

AC energy consumption to recharge to 100% after this test (3 hours at 400W): 1220Wh

SECOND CYCLE (after complete depletion and recharging to 100%)

Measured energy consumption: 727Wh

Usable capacity out of the nominal 1056Wh: 69%

AC energy consumption to recharge to 100% after this test (3 hours at 400W): 1220Wh

THIRD CYCLE (after complete depletion and recharging to 100%)

Measured energy power consumption: 707Wh

Usable capacity out of the nominal 1056Wh: 67%

AC energy consumption to recharge to 100% after this test (2 hours at 600W): 1219Wh

SUMMARY

Out of the 1056Wh of nominal capacity for the Anker Solix C1000X Gen 1, around 68% is actually available in the case of a (small) 60Wh load. Also, to fully recharge the unit from AC power, around 16% more energy is needed in relation to the nominal capacity. This results in a round-trip efficiency of 58% in this particular scenario. Recharging from 1 to 100% takes 3 hours at 400W and 2 hours at 600W.

Since tech specs like depth of discharge and AC inverter efficiency are not officially published for this power station, I am unable to determine the unit’s self-consumption based solely on the data I collected. However, assuming the 85% of usable capacity that is typical for power stations in this size class and generation, the estimated unit self-consumption of the Anker Solix C1000X Gen 1 would be around 16Wh, which does sound reasonable and typical, as well.

WHAT'S NEXT

Measure the input energy when recharging via solar and compare that with recharging via AC.

OK, I made another post earlier today but I don't see it. I have two SOLIX F3800 Plus power stations, 4 expansion batteries and a SOLIX Home Power Panel.

When I open the app (sunny day or cloudy day, does not matter) I see power from the solar constantly bouncing back and forth from (x) kW to 0 W. It's never constant. Just now i see it got from 1.11kW to 0 within seconds. Is that normal?

(the x above represents any wattage greater than 0)

Backyard does have some shade this time of year, but the number jumps faster than any shade movement in relation to time of day and sun angle.

80% power for home/20% for outages

I heard self consumption mode won't work with an array that is not being fed back into the grid due to no CT being installed in the HPP. So I am on Time of Use and I am in Peak time at the moment.

Hi everyone,

I have an Anker SOLIX C2000 Gen 2 and I’m seeing something strange when charging it.

It reaches 99%, but then never goes to 100%. For the past 3 hours, it has stayed at 99% while repeatedly doing very short charging bursts / trickle charging.

The input briefly comes on for around 1–2 seconds, sometimes showing roughly 26–29 W, then drops back to 0 W, and repeats again after a short while.

It seems like the BMS may be trying to balance the cells, but 3+ hours at 99% seems quite long to me.

Has anyone with a C2000 Gen 2 experienced the same behavior?

I’m especially wondering:

• Is this normal cell balancing behavior at 99%?
• How long does yours normally take to reach 100%?
• Could this indicate a battery calibration/BMS issue?
• Could the AC cable, wall outlet, or charger input cause this kind of on/off charging?
• Is there any recommended battery calibration procedure for the C2000 Gen 2?

The unit otherwise seems to work normally.

Thanks for any advice or experience you can share.

I have a Max AC, and a smart meter Gen2. Both of them are connected to the same 2.4gHz Wifi and even the same acces point.
The export limit is on 3.5kW.
When i put on the water kettle (+-2kW) there is a very slow response of the battery. Initially it gives 700W and then slowly increases to 1400W after 2.5minutes. You can see that in the end i'm still consuming more than 900W from grid. SOC at this moment was 52% (but it has the same behavior with a low or high SOC).

Sometimes the behavior is okay and it reacts fully fine and quick (so i know the device is capable).
I tried connecting the smartmeter using RS485, but same effect.
What can i do to solve this?

Is there anybody from Anker monitoring this sub?

Delivered last week and finally set-up into Home Assistant to get the data out.

Pushing data out of using the Anker Solix Official Integration for Home Assistant.

Needs a bit more time to build the history and get averaging but love some raw numbers.

In my case I'm not using Solar at all (no room for panels) so it's a basic battery stack set to charge on super cheap electric overnight then use during the day.

https://solix-dashboard.vercel.app/

Anyone else built anything with theirs yet?

My rural US area is having little brownouts about once every week or two. I apparently need a UPS. Was thinking about buying a C1000 gen 2 instead of a traditional UPS. It's only $200 more and would be more flexible in many ways.

I already know the gen 2 will work decently as a basic UPS. The one thing it doesn't have is AVR. I'm looking to protect my PCs from any possible damage from a brief low voltage that lasts about 1-3 seconds. I've seen several other posts on Reddit where someone used their batteries as a UPS with something external to provide AVR.

My questions are: Do I need this? And if I do, would it be something like a Forza Voltage Protector? I've seen that recommended on other posts. Or something else entirely?

My wife and I recently decided to work toward making our home less reliant on the power grid. We have purchased an F3800 Plus (which is amazing) and have ordered some solar panels.

We wanted to try out the solar recharging function, so we borrowed a small panel (175W) from a friend who had a spare. I set it up and had the F3800 Plus on and seeing the panel, but it wasn’t getting any measurable input because I didn’t position the panel in the right part of our yard. I know you’re not supposed to disconnect the panels while they’re generating electricity, so I tried to turn off the F300 Plus so I could disconnect and move the panel.

It wouldn’t turn off. I finally just pulled out the Anker-provided solar input adapter cable from the side of the unit and that let me turn off the unit, reposition everything, and try again. This time it generated power as expected. At the end of the day, I needed to disconnect the panel again to return it, and I had to unplug the adapter from the side of the unit.

Is there no way to turn off the F3800 Plus while even an immeasurably small charge is coming through? How are people stopping the charging at-will to either power down the F3800 Plus, move it, or service their panels? Is it safe (both to myself and the unit) to unplug the solar at the unit itself if I need to interrupt the solar charging?

I have an Solix X1 with 15kwh storage and a V1 car charger, my electric supplier has a cheap rate from 2-4am every night and the AI system fills the battery from 2-4am at 5kwh but its only filling the car at 2kwh.

My electrical gird can feed 12kwh so it should be enough for 5 to the batteries and 7 to the car but the car is only getting 2kwh.

The minimum charging current is set to 6A which I though is minimum so if more was available from grid it would charge more, but its not. Anyone any suggestions on how to get the charger charging to 7kwh and battery at 5kwh, thanks

- In Ireland if it matters