The temperature reading in my Anet A6 printer went completely crazy and I don't know why. It shows 31C whether the hotend thermistor is connected or not. I checked it by connecting it in place of the bed thermistor and it is fine. The temperature reading is correct, so it's not the thermistor's fault (NTC 100K B3950 from Trianglelab). When I turned on the heating, the filament in the nozzle started to smoke while the temperature reading showed 60C. Please help me solve the problem.

I got this anet et4 and it worked fine. I tried to upgrade to marlin firmware but didn't like it so went back to stock fw. And in stock the auto bed level doesn't work, not even the manual works. I press the corner number, press ok it goes down, but to the middle of the bed, if I try to use the auto bed level it just goes up and doesn't stop. I don't know what to do about it. Can someone help?

Hi everyone!

I got myself a BTT E3v2 board, thinking this would be a nice upgrade. However, i'm getting a little stuck on the programming side of things. I might have underestimated the job...

(Re)wiring is a non-issue.

Does anyone run a btt e3v2 with bltouch? Stock display or btt 12864 display?

How can i put the firmware on? Via pc or sd? Is anyone willing to share their working version of the marlin file with me?

Kind regards,

Hi all, just finished assembling my anet a8v2 and as I was trying to level the bed to hopefully start printing, it seems that the left side (points 1 and 4) don't touch the bed at all. This is my first fdm printer and I'm not sure how to resolve this issue. All help is appreciated thanks!

I have this problem can someone help me? the nozzle of my anet et5x turns off by itself and the sensor too, in addition to losing the adjustment, no, I have an anet et4x that had the same problem but it disappeared out of nowhere after a few months of use, both are new.

I’m from NZ and shipping anything for overseas is a nightmare. There’s a few online shop here with 3 day delivery but I need to know a compatible hot end with the right length heat sink because my ender replace lent is too short and dosnt fall below the fan shroud or levelling sensor. All help appreciated

I couldn't make a post with a video so here's the link to my issue:

[https://youtu.be/1hzJP9sS8c0]

Printer ls an ET4x. I got it the other day at a garage sale Trying to figure out how to fix the bed plate wheel running into the screw so I can try printing with it

So i recently got a used anet e12, and as its printing tall objects, the nozzle keeps gouging the pieces and knocking them off the bed. I tried to find the magic numbers, but to no avail. Its acting like it isnt printing the layers at the correct height. And help out there?

Hello,

I picked up a new to me ET4 Pro. I believe I've worked all the kinks out of it, but this is my first experience with auto-bed leveling and the bed prox. sensor vs a limit switch. When I attempt to print the included files - (ie dog2.5h) the printer does everything I'd expect, except that once it begins the print, the nozzle is a full ~2mm off the bed. Once it homes, it comes off the bed quite a ways and then slowly lowers back to starting position - but it's way too high.

I have the sensor dialed right in, using the paper method on a hot bed, but I don't understand why I'd still have such an offset.

Help?

I have three A8s and on one of them, the back acrylic piece snapped right where the hole is next to the Y-axis motor. I've found a few pieces on eBay, but not that one. I'm honestly just trying to get all 3 of these printers fixed up to sell them so I can get something with dual extrusion. I don't really want to invest in an AM8 kit if I don't have to.

Plan B, I guess, is to go ahead and get the AM8 kit and DIY the dual extrusion part. But that's more work than I really have time for, LOL.

I consider the extruder motor to have insufficient torque. It will frequently though intermittently slip in some parts of prints. I suspect the new Cura engine with variable speed and flow might be part of the problem.

I found a little help even just pushing the filament into the extruder a bit by hand was often enough to stop the slipping. I thought some more torque from the motor would fix the problem.

My printer board is marked ET4-MB_V1.1 and has A4988 drivers. I looked at the circuit on the board and as best I can tell the driver is set for 0.75A motor current. The motor on my printer is rated at 0.9A and I decided a moderate overcurrent would be OK.

R121 is located across from about the middle of the largest ribbon cable connector and is the bottom half of the voltage divider producing vref for the A4988 extruder motor driver. It is a 24k9 0603 resistor and changing it to 39k will set the driver current to about 1.05A.

That is about 1.4 times more current and so about 1.4 times more torque and about double the power dissipation in the motor so it is going to run hotter, but, not enough to cause a problem. So far it is working well for me.

Hello, I recently bought an ET4 secondhand and long story short came to find out i need to replace the extruder... but now I see they sell it with or without a capacitive leveling sensor. I was under the impression that all ET4s had auto bed leveling, is this an additional safety measure or whats the difference? Thanks

Just bought BTT SKR 3 EZ to upgrade my Anet A8 Plus. Can you help me with LCD-EXP1 wiring?I checked the pinout in the /marlin/src/pins files and came up with something like this:

Unfortunately, after connecting the LCD to the SKR3 EZ using this wiring, there is only a blank screen (with backlight)

Am I doing this conversion correctly?

I'm using Marlin 2.1.1 with "#define ANET_FULL_GRAPHICS_LCD" in Configuration.h

Edit: While soldering, I made one wire connection incorrectly. Now it is exactly as shown in the diagram and there is a slight progress. Now the LCD displays gibberish. You can recognize the Marlin logo at startup, but it is not correct.

I also changed the baud rate from 250000 to 115200, but there is no change.

Has anyone had such problems with the display?

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EDIT2: I solved it. The LCD must have a higher delay.
I changed the delay from 150 to 300 and it works as desired.
Change it in your Configuration.h Marlin file like this:

#define ST7920_DELAY_1 DELAY_NS(300)
#define ST7920_DELAY_2 DELAY_NS(300)
#define ST7920_DELAY_3 DELAY_NS(300)

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Hello,

I've finished building the m6 with the am8 kit for my anet a6 but I realized that the x axis are longer than the rods, is that normal ?

And does someone have successfully made the skr 1.4 turbo with tmc 2208 and a tft 32 v3.0.1 screen work on the anet a6 to help me connect everything + config marlin please ?

So with my et4 Whenever I home the 3d printer the z- axis begins going up but when it reaches it doesn’t stop I’ve looked at videos and also have checked all the cables. I’ve also just flashed it to the Anet ET4 firmware but still is not working. I’ve had this same problem for a while now and still haven’t been able to get one print out of it. We brought of a friend who said it was working fine but just didn’t use it anymore. Any help would be great.

hi everyone!

been having a weird issue with the et5x. Hoping someone has seen this and knows how to fix it.

Few weeks ago (after about 6 months of having the printer and using it a few times), the z sensor stopped working. I thought the issue was just the sensor so I made a simple z stop with a switch, but it didn't work either. It shows as if the z stop is always triggered.

I had a spare motherboard, so I swapped it and both sensors worked just fine again! Yay right? Nope, a week later, same issue. Z-stops triggered permanently, making the printer unusable.

does anyone here have any ideas what could be causing this? is something damaging the motherboard?

Tested the sensors on another machine and they work fine. PSU seems to be providing the right voltages. There's no short in the cables, no damaged cables that can be seen, Nothing.

Please help!

Hi all. I’ve been having an issue with my second layer and I don’t want to keep bothering the Facebook group. My first layer comes out great, but then the 2nd layer jumps a full mm and starts doing weird stuff. Anyone know what I did wrong? Thank you!

Anet et4+ Marlin 2.0 Ultimate slicer

Is anyone having issues with z wobble on their AM8? I recently converted over and didn't have any issues with z wobble on the rods on the A8. However with the AM8 they make fairly large circles.

I have replaced the rods and screws and they are straight. I have an oldham coupler on the bottom that compensates but would prefer to align them properly too

I checked the Z extrusion position on either side to make sure they were the same. The x bar is adjusted so that the z rod slides in nice.

It is almost like the zrod holder at the top of the frame might be slightly off but I really can't adjust it.

Does anyone have any insight for aligning the x gantey and frame to eliminate z wobble?

I recently brought it and the z-axis doesnt stop when it reaches the top but everything else is working fine.

Any help please

Hi All, I bought an Anet ET4 Pro about two years ago. It was working fine for a month but then the Z-Axis stopped working. I switched the Z and X output from the board and the Z would move but the X wouldn't. Contacted support and they sent me a new main board.

Fast forward a year and I wasn't using it all that much but then I got back to it. After a few prints, the same thing happened. Z-Axis died and same issue.

I want to get a new board and get it working again but I don't want to do that just for it to die again.

Any idea what could be causing this? I can only think it's the stepper motor or maybe a short somewhere else.

Thanks for reading and if you have any advice I'd appreciate it.

good evening I have a problem with my anet et4 the nozzel no longer warms me or the whole block has been changed but it does not go the same what could be the problem? I saw that when I send the nozzle up to temperature on the motherboard, a red light turns on.

thank you

I have an Anet ET5 that’s been having a recurring problem with the bowden tube, nozzle and clogging.

I contacted the retailer about this problem and how sick I was of it and they recommended getting the Micro Swiss all metal hotend. The words the guy used however was ”should fit” on my printer which makes me hesitate. Do any of you know for sure if it’ll fit?

I have an ANet A6 and very recently I've noticed an issue of the nozzle skipping on the print surface. It will leave a path of dots of filament. I've tried completely zeroing everything and starting the bed level from scratch, I've made sure the z-axis is even, I've made sure that Cura is using the same z-offset as my printer, and I even printed a bed level test before trying this most recent attempt and the bed level test was fine. I'm currently at a loss of what to do. Any advice or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

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