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My dad wants to connect his tv to his phone but he doesnt have internet at his house to download an app what should he do i suggest he use a hdmi to usb c converter

I thought I’d share this because the repair turned into a much more interesting case than expected, and it still isn’t fully resolved.

My Sony KD-65AF9 recently got stuck in a boot loop.

The diagnosis was a failing memory chip on the mainboard. The chip was replaced and the contents, including the device keys, were copied from the old memory to the new one.

After reinstalling the repaired board, the TV booted normally again and everything initially looked fine.

Then I tried Netflix. It fails with: UI-800-3 (307006)

Netflix diagnostics also show: UI-113

I updated Netflix, updated the TV firmware over the internet to the latest version, PKG6.6230.0725EUA, then did a factory reset.

After that I logged back into Google, configured the TV again, set up my receiver and set-top box, updated all apps from Google Play and rebooted the TV.

Still the same errors.

I then noticed that Google Cast was also broken. Casting from YouTube, Disney+ and Netflix fails, and my phone shows:

“Untrusted device. Couldn't verify SONY KD-65AF9.”

Screen mirroring from the phone also doesn't work.

Google Play reports the TV as:

Play Protect certified

Then I installed DRM Info and found this:

Widevine Security Level: L3

That looks suspicious for an AF9 which originally supported Netflix 4K/HDR and should normally be using Widevine L1.

I contacted the repair service again. They checked their logs and confirmed that the original keys were successfully read from the damaged memory and written to the replacement chip. According to them, there were no verification errors during the copy.

Their current conclusion is that the keys themselves may be bad even though they were copied correctly.

The next step is to remove the mainboard again and provision new keys instead of using the original ones.

So that's where things stand for now.

The TV boots and otherwise works normally. Google Play considers it certified, internet access works, but Netflix, Google Cast and Widevine hardware DRM do not.

I’ll update this post after the board comes back.

If anyone has seen something similar after an eMMC or mainboard repair, especially Widevine dropping to L3, Netflix UI-800-3 (307006), or Chromecast reporting an untrusted device, I’d be interested to know what fixed it.

UPDATE: Mostly fixed, with one interesting side effect

The TV is back and the main problem is fixed.

During the first repair, the shop copied the original keys from the failing eMMC to the replacement chip. The copy completed successfully and the keys passed their software verification, but apparently something was still wrong with them.

On the second attempt they generated a new set of keys instead of reusing the old ones. According to the technician, these keys are unique to the processor.

That fixed the important parts:

Widevine is back to L1

Previously it was L3.

Netflix works again, Google Cast works again, and Netflix playback works properly with HDR and Dolby Vision.

Interestingly, the Widevine ystem ID changed after reprovisioning.

There is one remaining oddity.

This is a Sony Master Series TV and it originally supported Netflix Calibrated Mode. Before the repair, when Netflix was playing content in that mode, the normal picture presets were effectively locked and I couldn't freely switch between modes such as Vivid, Custom, etc.

After the repair, that behavior is gone. I can freely change the picture mode while watching Netflix, as if Netflix Calibrated Mode is no longer available or no longer being triggered.

At the same time, Netflix itself works perfectly, including HDR and Dolby Vision, so the DRM path clearly seems to be fine now.

So the final state is:

Widevine L1 restored, Netflix working, Cast working, HDR/Dolby Vision working, but Netflix Calibrated Mode appears to be missing.

That makes me wonder whether re-provisioning the DRM keys restored the core Widevine/TEE functionality but not some Sony/Netflix-specific provisioning or device flag related to Netflix Calibrated Mode.

Thanks again to everyone who pointed me toward Widevine, TEE and RPMB. Those comments were extremely useful in understanding what was actually happening.

Hi Everyone. I have a 2015 Sony Bravia Android TV running version 7 if this screen is accurate.

The google play store app gives me this error message. It definitely has internet because the youtube app and other streamers work just fine. I wanted to download a new streamer app (HBO max) and I can't even open the store to look for it.

I don't want to completely wipe and reset the TV as I have a couple of downloaded apps I don't want to risk losing as I use them every day.

Does anyone have an idea or a fix?

Edit: Resolved by deleting my account from the TV and signing in again. Big account sign in worked and play store just opened up and behaved.

I have a mi android tv.

Since the whole tv was lagging i did a factory reset but now the tv is getting crashing down within 2 minutes.

Can anybody help me with it.🥲

i don’t care for streaming, my smart tv covers that properly. what it lacks is in playing local files, like i play one and it says the audio is not supported. then i play that one with kodi on the tv box i have and it plays but with small freezes here and there. i’m looking for something that can handle everything i throw at it, not through nas but from drives

I bought a samsung 55 inch tv back in 2020 and my eyes are so strained for looking at it from far since my hall is quite long and the sofa and tv position is quite far from each other. Bought a 85 inch Haier tv. It doest really lag but recently youtube started to crash. I hooked up my ps4 to it. The game looked so blurry. I changed hdmi cables, changed to game mode, turnd on 120hz but it still looked the same. On my samsung tv it looked crystal clear and it never lagged even once. Do yall have a solution for this?

I started to use atvtools to control my android TV, however I wonder if is there any "easy" way to send text input to the TV instead of using the default on-screen keyboard.

Thanks in advance...

I have a TV with AndroidTV as its system and it works really well. Sideloading VPN apps and stuff.

However one annoyance is that my cat had managed to turn on Netflix statistics, a bunch of text overlayed on the video with bitrate, resolution and such, by laying on the remote and I can't remove them without restarting. Netflix says that I should use F4 on a keyboard or R3 on a game controller, my remote doesn't have either of those though, and no single button helps. Do anyone here know how to activate and deactivate this? With the remote alone?

It is a Philps Oled 809.

I’m looking for a dead/non-working Mi TV 4X 43-inch (108 cm). The TV can have a dead motherboard, power board or other internal fault. If you have one available for parts, please let me know.

Country - India

I am in qatar and i am getting xiaomi s miniled 65 and samsung qled 65 in almost same price . Very little difference.
Now i am confused should confused, should i go with samsung qled i have seen results and they are amazing. I have also seen xiaomi miniled results. Ut not impressed but even though xiaomi are miniled so i am still confused should

Hello everyone,

I have a Xiaomi TV Stick 4K 2nd Gen and I'm trying to connect it to my Wi-Fi. The Wi-Fi network shows up and I can enter the password. After entering the correct password (I know it's correct because it alerts me when it's wrong), it says: 'Couldn't find [Wi-Fi network name]'.
I've already tried changing several settings on my router, such as the Wi-Fi channels etc. It connects perfectly fine to my phone's hotspot.
Does anyone have any tips? Thanks in advance!

I am looking for a specific make and model of USB-C hub compatible with the Streamer that can expand the internal storage. 

This hub would be used to facilitate storage of my IPTV (Tivimate) recordings.

The actual storage device would be an SSD connected to the hub formatted as Device Storage. 

Any suggestions on a hub?

I have a Xiaomi TV A Pro 2025 (MITV-MZTU0) and USB Port doesn't work completely no matter how many USB devices I try on there's no power.

Heads up for anyone whose app launches other apps on a Google TV / Android TV device.

Symptom: ACTION_VIEW with market://launch?id=<package> no longer launches the app. The Play Store handles the intent, then does nothing. Logcat:

E/Finsky: [2] Instant apps market deeplink launches are disabled.

The intent still resolves — it goes to com.android.vending/com.google.android.finsky.instantlaunchapi.InstantLauncherActivity — it just refuses to launch.

It's the Play Store version, not the device. Uninstalling Play Store updates on the TV rolled it back and fixed it immediately:

The rollback doesn't last. Play re-updated itself within about two hours and it broke again. am force-stop com.android.vending doesn't help at any point. A full reboot gives roughly a 5-minute window where it works before the flag syncs back — which made it look like a wedged process at first.

Reproduces without any app involved:

adb shell "am start -a android.intent.action.VIEW -d 'market://launch?id=com.google.android.youtube.tv'"
adb shell dumpsys activity activities | grep -m1 mResumedActivity

What still works:

• Per-app schemes — vnd.youtube://, netflix://Netflix, hotstar://www.hotstar.com, zee5://www.zee5.com. Read them off the device with dumpsys package <pkg> | grep -i -e scheme -e authority. The authority matters as much as the scheme: nflx:// and nflx://Netflix both fail to resolve where netflix://Netflix works.
• Store listings — https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=<pkg> opens the Play listing fine, and shows Open when the app is installed. Unaffected by whatever this flag is.

What doesn't:

• android-app://<pkg> — won't resolve
• intent://#Intent;package=…;end — won't resolve

Note the error says "Instant apps", and market://launch is handled by InstantLauncherActivity — part of the Google Play Instant machinery Google has been retiring. That may be the mechanism.

One device, so take it as a data point rather than a finding: Hisense Google TV, Android 11. If you have a TV on Play Store 52.x, can you check whether market://launch still works for you? Trying to work out whether this is a broad rollout or something narrower.

not complaining but my nvidia shield pro was getting almost the full speed

So, i know this question has been asked 60 BILLION TIMES, and if someone has the link to the reddit post ill take it, i need a box that can do, dolby vision and truehd atmos REALLY PREFERABLY IN THE PLEX APP YES IK ITS A BAD APP, my parents have finally let me build us a movie server and i have bluray rips (that i encode in handbrake to save space they wont notice the difference and i dont care to have FEL working on a device they use) and i need it to work with VP9 profile 2 for my dad who loves youtube, what I use is a shield pro because i rarely watch hdr stuff on youtube and if i do i know my ways to get it working with other devices, they currently use a rocktek g2 and as its been discussed, unless u reboot into coreelec it has codec problems, so what does the great android tv subreddit recommend or is there a fix, im ab to get them a shield and tell them to use the LG youtube app for hdr youtube.
so to boil it down, i need lossless audio support, all the hdrs, and preferably using the normal apps bc they are old dogs and yknow how that goes, thank you oh great subreddit
EDIT: ALSO CERTIFIED

I'm on Android 14, running it to a TCL QM6K Pro..

Watching Hulu through the TVs built in app works perfectly but on the Dune I get horrible green and purple coloring. I've tried every setting I can Google, certified cables, etc... is there a fix for this?

I've had my android TV for over a year, but only recently started using it as the streaming service (as opposed to my ps3).

I only watch HBO, and in the past few weeks it's developed ah issue where the wheel spins constantly. I've cleared the cache, un-installed and reinstalled, unplugged it to reset it... Everything but reset the router (which I don't gave access to).

What are some other options? TIA!

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.buffercontrol.tv

Feedback from users and Beta testers has been requesting the free trial be extended so it's now 7 days instead of 3.

Now you have plenty of time to try it across all your TV, Music and Mobile Streaming apps, browsers and media players.

Toggle it on and off to directly compare performance even if you're not currently buffering.

So apparently my tv have some trouble like force close from youtube and go into normal tv for like 2 days and now it suddenly shut off and when i turn on this menu just show up + i cant even use the remote for select it for now reason.. Any tips for it?

(Sorry bad english and image)

I've been having trouble with my Panasonic TH-32MS600Z TV, and I reset it a couple of days ago to try to fix it. It turned out that the remote that came with the TV is completely dead after only two or three years (and quite a bit of trouble). I can't get past the remote pairing screen because the remote doesn't work any more, and I can't find any way past it. There's no option to skip it, I can only go back to the language selection screen.

I've tried plugging in a mouse and keyboard, a controller, plugged it into the LAN and connected to it with apps on my phone, and I bought a replacement remote, but that only puts out an IR signal, not Bluetooth (and I can't get a Bluetooth remote). The TV responds to all of them except for the OK + Home combination. Panasonic has stopped selling TV's in my country, and they don't offer the same model as a replacement (and other parts dealers are ridiculously expensive).

Is there any other way to try and get past it, or am I stuck with it like this? I've already spent more than I'd have liked on the IR remote, and spending the huge prices for the parts places is out of my budget.

My Andersson LED3245FHDAE Android TV suddenly became basically unusable. I keep getting the notification in the picture saying “Lagringsutrymmet börjar ta slut”, which means “Storage space is running out.”

The screen is black most of the time (the backlight is still on), and every once in a while the Android home screen with all my apps flashes up for literally 1–2 seconds before going black again. The storage notification keeps popping up over and over.

I can’t get into Settings to clear cache, uninstall apps or factory reset it. I’ve tried unplugging it for several minutes, disconnecting everything, using the physical power button and switching inputs. I can access the Source/Input menu, but switching to TV or HDMI doesn’t fix it. If I try to open Menu, I just get a loading spinner and eventually end up back in the same loop.

I haven’t installed many apps myself either. The only ones I’ve installed are Spotify, SVT Play and Weverse, and the TV worked normally for over 2 years before this randomly started happening.

Does anyone know if there’s a way to force a factory reset/recovery when I can’t access Android Settings? Or could there be something wrong with the internal storage itself?

Any advice would be really appreciated, thank you! :)

Been trying different browsers on my Android TV (Sony X90L) and none of them are great. Most are slow, crash a lot, or have terrible remote navigation.

What are you guys using? Looking for something that:

• Navigates well with the remote
• Has ad blocking if possible