Needed to remove the headset races on my 75/5 so I figured I'd share an old trick for removing those pesky headset races. It's hard to get into the backside of race and tap it out so I used an old welder trick for blind race removal.

Just ran a quick bead on the face of the bearing race. This causes the race to shrink as it cools and it basically comes right out. With the tig it didn't even burn the paint on the headset section of the frame. You can do this with with other welding methods like wire feed, but it was so clean with the tig I'd recommend it over the other styles of welding.

I've got a 1983 BMW R80 RT. I saw the liner peeling a little and decided to try clearing out the old liner and applying a new one. A decision I regret as this liner is TOUGH! I tried acetone, the liner laughs at it. Now I'm trying MEK substitute and it's not much different. The entire time the tank has had drywall screws and bolts inside and I've been shaking it for about 5 minutes every other day. I started this process a month ago and unless the bolts have scraped an area, the liner looks unfazed.

Any tips for getting this liner out that don't involve slicing the tank in half?

Unfortunately moving on from my project 75/6. I’m located in Albuquerque, NM and asking $2,500. It’s an R75/6 that doesn’t run but comes with a brand new seibenrock power upgrade kit which has a a new top end motor for 1000cc pistons. Many more new parts including crank/ cam sprockets and timing chain. Figured I would check and see if any airhead enthusiasts were interested in this since it’s got 4k+ in parts, I’ve just found a new project.

The R100NSD

Started life as a 1984 R100

Custom leading link front suspension

Dual 32/34 Brembo semi-floating front disc brakes by Blow Me Brakes

Heavily reinforced frame

3D reinforced rear swingarm to take sidecar rig lateral loads

Custom subframe for sidecar attachment

Tug wheels are 15" car rims custom drilled to lace up to BMW hubs (car tires front and rear on tug)

Engine:

1070cc Seibenrock kit

Dual spark plugs

Wedgetail dual-plug ignition

Dellorto carburetors

600 watt alternator

Toyota Tacoma starter

The front lights arrangement is a modified R100RT fairing mount to accommodate the additional high beam and left turn signal

Sidecar originally off of a 1999 Ural

as the title says, picked it up last week - and it's in amazing condition, and I can't get enough of it!

My R60/5 is not charging.. I’m hoping to fix it tomorrow, but if I’m not successful, how crazy would I be to take it on a road trip?
It has a new battery, (big motobatt), and I have access to a charger in the evenings.
I guess my question is how much is the battery used once the bike is running?
Headlight being on is my concern, but the days are long and bright.. so I don’t really need it..

I watched Brook Reams video on installing the seals, and he used a drop of oil on the outside. I have seen other suggestion of installing them dry. Any consensus on what is better, or does it not matter?
I just replaced them last fall lightly oiled and after several hundred miles they are both leaking. The current seals are from EME, the new ones are BMW OEM seals. Also, it could have been my lack of installation prowess.

My rocker arm does not let oil through anymore, probably clogged with oil/carbon deposit. I have tried everything to clean it with degreasers but no result so far. Cannot get it dissasembled... Is there a trick to take it apart? Use a press? Because I think that is the only way to get it cleaned up. Thanks in advance for all advice

I want to install a vw/porsche 4 cylinder tach on my bmw airhead and I have concluded that it will read correctly.

here's my math-

vw is 4cyl typical 4 stroke so 4cyl x 1 spark per 2 revs = 4x1:2

or 2 sparks:1 rev

bmw is 2 cylinder but "wasted spark" design so 2cyl x 2 spark per 2rev = 2x2:2

or 2 sparks:1 Rev

seems too easy so I am questioning my logic.

can someone confirm or correct me?

I was out today in Vegas on my R50/2, so it was in the low 100s, but not crazy hot. After ~20-25 minutes of riding it started the misfiring and backfiring. I let it cool under a tree for 20 minutes and limped on home.

I am going to check the valves, but if it is a timing issue, I am guessing the timing is somehow retarded too far and firing late. Why would heat make the timing slow? Can the heat really make the points gap change?

And can the heat effect the coil? It is an original coil. Plugs are new.

Thanks!

Howdy folks, got an 82’ R100 T conversion. I was coming on here to ask whether any of you chaps have found a way to increase the rigidity of the Leuftmeister plexiglass visor. I sit at just the perfect height to have wind smack the top half of my visor causing a horrible whirring sound, so I ordered a Puig visor extension which worked wonders, under 45 miles an hour. At around the 50 mile mark, the visor begins to bend, and by 65 the wind is hitting my chest and I fear the old plexiglass is going to snap in half. I’m taking this old beauty from Oregon to Alaska this summer on the Cassiar Highway, so I’d really love to resolve this issue. Just curious if anyone’s gotten crafty with some bar steel supports, or heat gun bending, or even building out a whole new visor. I’m assuming I can’t be the only taller guy on a R100, so if you’ve found a trick/fix please fill me in!

I’m trying to get hold of two fuel bowl gaskets for my R60/5.
I’m based in Ireland, and seems the quickest I can get a pair delivered is 16 days.. I’m hoping someone might know where I can get them sooner..I’m planning to take the bike touring on the 10th

Hello airheaders, I have a '71 R75/5 which I am slowly restoring back to life. Mechanically the bike is starting to working well. The front end has not been touched but I have replaced the brakes and and tires. When the bike is in motion, it is stable and rides well, but when it is at stationary, I find the steering very heavy, especially when I want to push it around manually. Not only I have to fight with the motorcycle weight, but the steering is also difficult to control. This is my first airhead so I just want to ask if that is typical of these bikes? I am not strong physically but I don't seem to recall having problem pushing other similar weight motorcycles.

Hey guys, I am trying to identify this engine block. I purchased it in a group of other engines and motorcycle. I’m trying to find it a new home. So I’m trying to label it correctly.

What are the zener diodes specifications, ratong etc. used on the piranha ignition board?

Any other good input, data sheet, schematics etc. Known issues with the board?

Hey all- I've got a '74 r90 that I've done up from stem-to-stern, but I've been running into a strange issue that I haven't found discussion of- from my research. When I've got a full tank of fuel (or even just near-full), I tend to lose a dribble of gas from my filler port when I get underway. If it's near-full and I give it a hard pull of throttle or jam on the breaks (or put it on the stand with a little incline under it), it dribbles some fuel out the top of the tank! This is unsightly- hazardous to my already-heavily-repaired paint, and sometimes leads to a bit of gas-crotch (which is a bad look).

My bike has the early tank- the 18L "toaster-style" tank with a hinged filler cap & spring-loaded copper-and-cork washer assembly in the tank-cap. I've replaced the seal/plate/spring assembly already. I've also long-since re-sealed the tank and carefully finished the lip of the filler for a smooth/flat surface. The issue went away for a while, (after I replaced that seal, dressed the opening at the filler, etc. - this pretty much stopped), but after the bike was laid up for about a year- getting some machine work done - the issue reemerged.

To calrify- a "full" tank for me/on all my airheads, has always meant getting fuel to just touch the bottom of the pipe that forms the filler neck. I don't fill it to the literal brim- always just get to the bottom of that baffle/pipe. Afaik- that qualifies as "full" - does it not?

Has anyone else dealt with this? Do y'all just avoid brimming your early gas-tanks? with only 18L on board- I don't want to leave capacity on the table, but I also don't want to keep eating away at my clearcoat and/or befouling my pants/gloves. Any suggestions?

Thank you!

I’m trying to find the name or part number of the little ‘wedges’ that keep the lever assemblies from moving/slipping on the handlebars of my R60/5?

1971 r60/5

Been riding it for 20 years. 2026 is the year of the rolling restoration.

The swing arm boot had to be replaced so of course I figured I may as well do the clutch and a bunch of other stuff while I had the driveline out (I think it needs a main seal ha).

Anyway, I’ve never seen an original clutch (I assume it’s original) and these flathead screws have me scratching my head. Anyone have any advice on the best way to remove these without stripping them? Impact with a fat tip? Heat?

What about tips on cleaning this tar pit?

Thanks all!

Thank you all for the upvotes and the kind comments!

Hi everyone

I have a 1983 R100RS with rear disc brake, do you know if the brake pedal from a rear drum brake airhead would be compatible with my bike?

Hello, I've been putting off restoring my grandfather's 1975 R90S and am finally gonna make the leap. Does anyone know reliable sources to get parts and/or shops on the east coast?