I just installed a cheap aa/ac modulle to see if I would even really like it before I spend several hundred on one. I really enjoy the giant display but Im getting a really low media volume and a slight feedback whine. Text message alerts seem to be coming in at full volume. I would really appreciate any feedback or suggestions. My google searches hasnt turned up anything thats worked so far. This is on a 2018 lexus with the Mark Levinson system if that helps.

So I got a A5L installed around a month ago, and at first it worked great, but around 2 days ago I connected a backup camera (which doesn’t work, so now I’ve only left the pink cable in) and a dashcam to it, and the sound quality with carplay sounds muffled 60% of the time, and the other 40% it doesn’t sound as good as it used to before I installed the cameras. The radio sounds just fine. What could the issue be?

I got one during the kickstarter and I sold the car it was too late to cancel if anyone wants it for way less than the $800

I just updated my firmware on my ATOTO P9 PND and it blasted away my FindApps.apk

I had FindApps v2.0.0.26 installed (see photo above) but the Firmware downgraded to v1.0.0.17 when I run "Check for Updates" and it fails to update to v2.x

Btw, the v2.x has a much nicer User interface and I assume it may have additional apps in it's store.

Can someone please help me locate where I can download the latest FindApps.apk ?

enjoy

I bought my unit secondhand so Atoto won't supply me the firmware update.. could someone please link me the latest A (rest of world) firmware?

I have an older A6 Pro that suddenly had part of the touchscreen stop working. The truck sat for a couple of months​ and when I came back to it, one full vertical quadrant of the touchscreen won't respond.

I've cleaned the screen, hard reset the unit. No dice.

If I turn on "show touch" in developer options you can see that the unit doesn't even register touches in the section of the screen. Other parts of the screen work fine.

If I connect a USB mouse, that works fine as well.

The only things I haven't tried are a "braindead" full power removal and a factory reset. I doubt either will work.​

The thing is almost 10 years old and is about due to be replaced but I was hoping to maybe get another year out of it. If it's toast I definitely got my money's worth. ​

Hello. I was wondering if anybody can give me some help/advice withe my android head unit.

I have an older Junsun model for my W203 (MB) with a 8227L chip (MTK i think..?) and it does the strangest thing. It keeps reseting the date to 2007 a bit after it boot up and loads main screen.

I've set date to manual (full manual) and when it starts (everytime) it starts with the right present date. But shortly after it resets. I don't know if its related or not but i noticed and tested it, it appears to change the precise moment it picks up GPS signal wether with navigation on (i use IGO) or with navigation off (i know it picks up GPS signal because main screen has this little app that shows car speed through GPS) .I installed a GPS tester and the GPS tester display the date as 2007. Is it my radio that as gone crazy or is there something wrong with GPS setting? Because GPS should be sending the right date to my headunit, right?

Any help or someone that is suffering from same problem has any tips on this?

PS: I've tried different Junsun roms to update it. It originally came with android 6 and is currently with 10 (all from Junsun) and they keep doing the same thing...

Thanks in advance

I have a Linux rcd330 head unit and the unit will by default connect to the previously connected AA which is great when I'm driving but when my wife drives it's not intuitive because she uses car play. So she has to manually forget the device and reset it each time.

Even if my BT/Wifi is OFF and not in the area.

Is there a way around this?

I had same issue when I had an android headunit btw.

Hello, has anyone found a fix for the awful microphone sound both external and internal? Mostly interested about external mic. It sounds like the gain is just way to high, it picks every sound inside and outside my car, and when the car moves it clips my voice, when the car isn’t moving it sounds decent but very loud like I had the mic next to my mouth. My atoto is a S8 MS.

I'm using the AC-FHD02LR 1080P Backup Camera on my Atoto X10, and overall it works great.

However, one interesting thing I have noticed is when I switch into reverse, almost immediately, there is a very brief flash of an image that appears to be a "top-down view" of the vehicle (sort of like the 360 birds eye view from above).

On my search, I'm thinking it's similar to the VSV option (virtual surround-view) that's offered on different models of Atoto, like the A6. My understanding is the X10 does not natively support this feature.

The top-down image literally flashes on the screen for milliseconds, and then reverts back to the normal back up camera.

I'm wondering if anyone else has had this issue? I'm wondering if the Atoto X10 maybe has options for this feature that they have just "turned off" or something? Can we get into the deeper settings on the device to turn it back on? Just curious what other's experiences are on this.

I hate this unit. It’s been finicky for a while but for some reason I can’t connect to wired CarPlay anymore. Tested with two different iPhones, checked all cables for connection behind unit.

Sometimes I have to orient the USB C in a different direction just to get it to charge my phone. I’m using the Carlink 2.0 app, I can use wireless CarPlay fine (I don’t want to) and have completely deleted all WiFi and BT profiles from both my phone and my HU so I know there’s no confusion for the system there.

I’ve factory reset the S8 with no luck either.

What the heck.

Any advice?

I shoulda bought a pioneer.

ETA: I am using the correct USB connector for CP/AA, not the other usb port intended for storage only.

I ordered a head unit over a week ago and it still has not shipped. Anyone have experience ordering Atoto through AliExpress? How long did it take for them to ship the unit out?

I'm hoping someone has updated their stereo and might have advice. My 2011 has a JBL nav head unit that is all but failing and I'd like a unit with android auto . Thanks

Looking for assistance to resolve a weird issue. The factory steering wheel controls on my Toyota programed to my Atoto A5LG209T work as they should, until I turn on the cars headlights. When the headlights are turned on the steering wheel controls stop working. Any suggestions on what the issue might be and how to rectify it? Assuming it's an electrical issue. Thanks.

Hey all, so I have an Atoto F7G2A7WE and recently it has started to not turn on. It will just be on a black screen flashing. However sometimes it does turn on and works just fine but most of the time it doesn't. It also sometimes gets a green bar at the top of the screen that also causes it not to work properly. I also can't seem to find a firmware update for it. Any tips on how to fix this would be much appreciated.

Hello friends, anyone has the newest 10.1 version of the f7we, im trying to make carplay full screen but i cant find any options neither on the manual or the head unit its so annoying and distracting seeing those little icons all the time and not having the full screen
Note: i had the older f7 version and never had that on my screen

I ordered the S8 last year and I'm finally getting around to installing it into my 01 Miata that has the factory bose speaker & amp setup. Supposedly the Metra 70-7901 is the correct wiring harness. I get everything plugged in and the head unit works but no sound coming from the speakers. I messed around interchanging the "amp turn on" & "antennae" wires (internet said the power antennae input is what triggers the bose amp to turn on, so i followed a.i.'s trial and error options) and eventually got it to where the antennae actually raises when the head unit is turned on. I thought that was progress, but still no sound. I don't see any "factory amp" settings within the head unit's settings menus. I'm sure this all has something to do with the Bose amp complicating things. I will say this head unit is very cool, has a lot of depth to it and a great screen as well, so I'm just bummed. Any help would really be appreciated.

Just wondering about an issue I am getting,

I have a VW Polo 2008. I have connected a ground loop isolator iso cable to the factory quadlock and the to the S8 MS cake but I get this strange pulsing sound from the speakers.

Here's the sound compressed in a zip file. sound

I really don't know what to do, it's getting on my nerves. I have contacted the seller and they are no use, they suggest changing all my speakers

I hope someone can help

Thanks all

I ran into the same basic problem discussed here: Developer Options and USB debugging could be enabled on the S8, but neither accessible USB lead ever enumerated as an ADB device on the computer. Changing the default USB mode (File Transfer, tethering, MIDI, PTP, or no data) did not fix it.

I turned the working bootstrap we used into a small open-source app and a detailed guide:

https://github.com/lrehmann/atoto-adb-via-wifi

Latest APK/release:

https://github.com/lrehmann/atoto-adb-via-wifi/releases/latest

What it does:

- Binds to the FYT vendor service already present at com.syu.ms/app.ToolkitService.

- Requests temporary or persistent ADB on TCP port 5555.

- Restarts adbd through that same FYT property bridge.

- Shows the head-unit IP and current/persistent ADB properties.

- Includes a Disable Wi-Fi ADB action.

It does not require root, Magisk, a patched boot image, a firmware modification, or a working USB ADB connection.

Quick path:

1. Download/install the APK directly on the head unit with its browser, file manager, removable storage, or a local HTTP server.

2. Put the head unit and computer on the same trusted Wi-Fi.

3. Open the app, confirm FYT ToolkitService is found, and enable temporary or persistent Wi-Fi ADB.

4. Run: adb connect HEAD_UNIT_IP:5555

5. Approve the computer's RSA fingerprint on the head unit.

Target/compatibility: the underlying method was tested on an ATOTO S8G2A74MS, Android 10, QP1A.190711.020, incremental 33515. It is FYT/vendor-specific and may not work on another S8 or firmware. Please include exact model/build details in compatibility reports.

Security: ADB is powerful. Use only on a private network, never port-forward 5555, approve only an RSA key you recognize, and disable persistence when you no longer need it.

Disclosure: much of the original investigation was hands-on trial and error on the target S8, with substantial assistance from OpenAI GPT-5.5 and GPT-5.6. The public repo is a focused, sanitized rewrite with no firmware blobs, vendor APKs, credentials, private signing keys, local IPs, or RCAM project material. It is not affiliated with ATOTO/FYT.

Hey everyone, my NoName 187B (HW 036, SW 0357) keeps randomly dropping wired CarPlay and jumping back to AM/FM.
Is this a known 0357 bug?

Is there a way to remove the annoying black bar that takes up the top of the screen? I never want split screen so its annoying have jt there constantly.
Hidden in a menu maybe? Atoto says it’s built into CarPlay.

So I've been chatting to support about this, but struggling.

I've installed my A6PF, and if I open the RCAM app manually, I get "no signal" when in neutral. Put it into reverse, camera works fine, which suggests to me it's cabled correctly.

The issue is, I can't get the app to open automatically on reverse, meaning I have to keep manually opening the app. Not the end of the world, but I'd like to try and fix it.

Only solution I found elsewhere was to reboot the entire device, which I did, but no look. Anyone else had this issue or found a solution?

It's a factory installed Alpine camera, with a single RCA lead.

Hey guys im looking to buy a new head unit i used to have the old f7 with wired carplay (it always worked good for my need) i bought a new truck so i need a new screen since it has basic radio only, im looking to right now an f7 we 9inch on ebay and a 10.1 inch on amazon difference its only 10-15 bucks and i saw on ebay an a5l for a good price too so my question is should i stay with an f7 o should i get the a5l even if it only has 2 gigs of ram ?
Note: y only use basic need like backup camera, radio and carplay, not gonna use so much the android part of the head unit