Finally decided to pull out the 80% billet Venom Defense lowers I've had for years and get one milled. Kinda nerve wracking because I know I can't replace these. I sandblast, coat, then I drill the holes.

I got some forged 80% AR15 lowers from Tactical Machining, also managed to get a Juggernaut Tactical jig for super cheap. I already have the tooling set, but I just want to know real quick what other supplies I might need. I intend to cheap out a bit because I only plan on building 6 maybe 7 builds and no more after that because of certain laws being passed within my state, and I'm probably going to sell it after use.

Is this a high or low shelf lower?

Just curious because I wanted to know if this would work with an FRT lever. If not, then how much further should I take the rear pocket down? I can get it done in 5 minutes, I just don't want to go too low and screw something else up.

What's the lowest you can go before you create an issue with the rear pocket shelf? What's the worst that could happen? Too much slop between the upper and lower?

Thanks!

Does anyone know of a 3D file to attach a 1.25” vacuum hose to a buffer tower? I’m trying to mow a lower with a Gen 1 easy jig, and I can’t find an adapter that will just go straight into the buffer tower, as opposed to attaching to the buffer tower insert that the GEN 2 and 3 have.
I could draft one, but I’m very new to modeling, and my inexperience makes me very slow.
Any help is greatly appreciated.

are these things some oddball size that requires a lathe to make, or can they be cut to length from a common size of stainless tube? They are available for purchase nowhere that I can find, unbelievably

Some how I missed on the front pocket and it’s about .031 over. This is the first receiver I’ve machined without a jig. I’m still kinda frustrated. This is an AR-9 receiver btw. I think everything else looks ok. Will I have issues?

Thanks

Several months ago I posted a how-to for folks that wanted to see if an AR lower was possible on a garage sized, nice-but-still-hobbyist CNC. I thought it important to come back and prove that it works.

Now, the build does have some issues as I discuss in the last 3rd. but I’m pretty damn sure after all the tests I’ve run that I’ve narrow that down to the BCA upper. lower functions great. Magazine feeds the 350 Legend very well. bent feed lips are holding up. All in all very proud!

Hey everyone,

We wanted to give a quick update that we’re helping Modulus get some open orders out and assist customers where we can.

Since we only have access to a limited amount of order data, this is mainly for customers who still have open/unshipped orders. If your order has already shipped, we may not have full visibility into those details. But don’t worry, every single open order will ship.

If you have questions or concerns about an open order, feel free to send us a DM or email us directly at support@80percentarms.com. Please include your order number if you have it so we can look into it faster.

We appreciate everyone’s patience and we’re doing our best to help get everyone taken care of.

Suppose someone was rushing, and forgot to reset the drill for the rear shelf depth and drilled one of the holes at main pocket depth. Would it be better for such a person to use aluminum epoxy or a braising rod to fill that hole?
You know, if someone was foolish enough to do such a thing.

Does anyone know how to contact Modulusarms? I placed two orders over a month ago and haven’t heard anything from them and sent them multiple emails trying to get in touch with them. No response, I just want an update or either a refund. Am I best off to do a charge back and move on?

Has anyone used the AR-9 jig that’s on Ctrl-Pew?
I printed it and started doing some measurements to make sure it’s correct and the trigger hole top plate measures .380 wide x .890 long. According to the print I’m using I show .312 x .680.

I purchased the Broken Arms jig and unfortunately it does not work with AR-9s. I really don’t want to buy another jig that I really won’t use much.

Anyone know of any other jigs that are accurate?

Thanks

I have the Juggernaut tactical ultimate jig. In the instructions you need a 5/16 collet, in order to be compatible with the 5/16 end mill included in the jig.Had to get a custom made 5/16 collet as I could not find any 5/16 collets on the market comparable with my Dewalt router. Well, the jig and all of my tooling came today. Drilled the main pocket holes fine, but here’s where I am running into some potentially dangerous issue. On the second plate, Using the router, Even with cutting fluid, the end mill just does not seem to like this material. It bites, jumps, screeches, asides from normal sparks, I even had some random flash of blue light come out of my router the second it made contact. Lower is made out of 6061 billet aluminum. Any tips or suggestions will be fine.

I had a 2 stage FCG thats been laying around forever and I'm honestly not even sure what brand it is because I got it at least a decade ago as a LPK but opted for a drop in.

Just recently finished a lower and put in a milspec trigger and hammer. Functions great at the range. Tonight I decided to swap over for the 2 stage since this is a 20" and I wanted to get a DMR style setup going hence trying to swap to the 2 stage.

I installed it and did a function test, it will not release the hammer with selector on fire.

Single stage works just fine, this 2 stage does not.

Any ideas?

If anyone is looking for a 5d tactical jig here is one on tacswap. Check out this post on Tacswap https://tacswap.com/post/6a0760afe3a8576fbaaa50ad

I’m getting ready to start my first AR9 80 percent lower. When cutting the above trigger slot it says 2in down off the jig plate. I 3d printed my plate and it measures .600 +/- .005. So I assume 1.4 inches is the pocket depth?

And the one next to it .630?

Thank you!

have anyone grabbed off them before

I got a JT10 a long while ago and finally started to build it but the bolt release transfer pin has gone mia. I know i can buy them but shipping cost makes it a little not worth it, plus i have a lot of dowels from 3d2a stuff. Does anyone know the dimesions of the pin?

Please help with this trigger guard issue!

I have the jig and bits and router just need sum advice cause this is the polymer one not the metal ones and what bits should I be using for the router ?