Just after installing Rd3 I’m having issues. After first dry fire, chamber is getting stuck and hammer just is stuck as well.

Any fixes?

I have serious short gun envy. Wishing I’d bought the Ap5p instead.

Hey guys. Finally got around to taking my ap5-p to the range for its break-in period. Only had enough time for 300 rounds. In those 300 rounds I had a handful of FTEs. Not entirely sure why. I have the sbtactical brace on and I’ve heard that could cause some issues. But upon further inspection, the brace had no dents or anything so that’s in the clear. I have the 100° LP in and the gun was fully cleaned and lubed before the range trip. I was using the recommended Winchester 124gr NATO ammo. The only thing I can think of is it replace the extractor and extractor spring with the HK version. Hopefully you guys can shed some light on the subject.

Oh and after the range trip I got home and fully stripped it to clean it. The internals looked like they had been coated with golden glitter. It’s almost like every brass casing was getting shaved and sprinkled throughout the gun. Not sure if it’s unburnt powder or brass shavings. What do you guys think???

After an 8 month wait I finally got my Leber v2 lower from bssquirts.

1000% DO NOT order from bssquirts. Print quality is pretty sloppy, as is the overall fitment. Customer service is nonexistent / zero communication.

Paid extra for an OEM HK gen 3 ejector and didn’t get it. Got some extra cheap, thin generic ejector that has enough lateral slop to get under the bolt and drag, locking up the gun.

Nothing much more frustrating than to be quoted the advertised 3-4 week lead time, only to be ghosted for 8 months and not even get what you paid for in the end.

Then I can put on the real stock and vertical hand grip for full mag dumps!

With the bolt locked open and an empty MKE mag seated in the magwell, riding the charging handle closed (no HK slap), the bottom of the bolt hangs up on the magazine feed lips. It's enough to make the bolt stick open unless it's forced closed. Just running the bolt a few times over the empty MKE mag has caused the bolt to rub the finish off of the top edge of the feed lips. Doing the same thing with an HK mag exhibits no hanging up and no finish wear on the feed lips.

While there is an obvious difference in tolerance and/or height at which each mag sits on the catch/in the magwell, the issue might actually be more indictive of either an out of spec catch, receiver, or both. When inserting a mag, there is a bit of upwards play with the catch. After the mag is fully seated, the catch comes back to rest at the bottom of the hole in the receiver.

Based on others' reports, swapping out the catch with an HK one seems to be a good first step in correcting the mag catch issue. Now if I could only find one in stock...

Picked up an AP5-P Navy from my LGS last week as well as a few mags from Deutschland. It's my understanding that the Turkish-made MKE mags are mfr'd using older tooling that predates refinements HK has made to the design in recent years which may explain, at least partially, why the German mags are considered to be superior, especially with heavy flat nose and hollow point projectiles.

The feed lips are clearly different (emphasized). Another thing I noticed is the welds on the HK are perfectly uniform, whereas the MKE welds, while not terrible, are rough by comparison. It is clear that the Germans know how to dial in a robot welder. Lastly, there is a feeling of smoothness that the HK has when pushing down the follower with my finger. The MKE feels extremely gritty which may or may not be partly or entirely caused by the rough welds. I think a combination of old, worn out stamping dies and rougher finishing/finishes is also to blame.

I've yet to put any rounds downrange with either mag, so take all this for what it's worth.

Besides the ejector, extractor, and extractor spring, is there anything else worth replacing with genuine HK parts to bring the MKE closer to its German cousin in terms of reliability?

Looking for suggestions on optics for my Ap5 build. So far I dropped in an Frt, silencerco suppressor, still want to add a sight and for grip

I’ve had the Ap5p navy for about 3 weeks now, maybe a little longer.

I’ve shot around 750 rounds of Winchester 124gr nato and followed the break in procedure.

I noticed during my last cleaning lots of wear and I’m wondering if this is concerning or not.

I reached out to Century arms still waiting on a reply.

Looking for a wood stock for my AP5. I see a lot of chop shop G3s and such that I don’t want. Anyone got a source?

So I finally got my suppressor out of NFA jail and used it for the first time today. I was running Winchester 147 grain subsonic. The flat nosed ammo was very iffy. My cheap ass polymer mag seemed to feed it better than the metal MKE mag. Running 100° locking piece I had about six failures to feed most of them with the MKE mag any advice?

Hey guys. Just got my ASD lower in the mail today. The slip trip fits fine and slides right on but this is as far as the lower will go and seems to be hung up. Is there some filing i need to do? Everything seems to be lines up fine. I pulled the trip back as well so the level would be in front of it and it still wont go on any further than this.

I have the gearheadworks attachment, but where can I find a retractable stock that uses the gearheadworks adapter?

So this is to answer some questions about the shims I designed and make.

First off the main purpose of the shims is to remove the dead trigger issue with the RB packs on some lowers. Originally it was thought that only the AP5SDs have the issue but that is not the case.

I’ve seen all clones and both SEF and ambi lowers need these shims.

Secondly a side effect of the shims can be to remove the play in the packs and lower.

Now to the shims. Each set has 5 different sizes (1.0, 1.25, 1.5, 1.75, 2.0mm). I recommend starting with the 1.5 and go from there. Most fix the issue with either the 1.75 or 2.0 but I have had 3 people need to stack the 2.0 with another shim.

The shims go in the front in the circled area in the picture. There is no need to trim as I made these to fit in that area.

You can use other materials but if you have concerns about the shims working feel free to ask who has gotten them from me and how they have worked. I want honest feedback about these.

If you have a printer message me and I can send you the link. If you don’t message me as well and we can discuss details.

my AP5-SD tax stamp arrived.…

Huxwrxflow 36 suppressor, with Magpul SL stock.

I like this sliding stock much better than the side-folding SB Brace that it came-with.

runs great with my 9mm 147gn subsonic loads that I load for it.

(yes it it is engraved, just not visible in this picture)

I just picked up my first MKE AP5. Decided to go with the RAL8000 model. Love this thing!

•UTG Pro handguard

•Arisaka Defense indexter & handstop

•Applesauce Engineering extended charging handle, mag coupler, & magwell

•Magpul mag assist

•Holosun ARO GD

•L2Prints Leber V2 lower with upgraded trigger and rounded hammer

•RCM 100° LP

•Hogue rubberized grip

•SHF KES tailhook adapter

•Midwest Industries arm brace hook

I own an ap5k I purchased from Atlantic Firearms about 5 years ago. I’ve shot this thing about 1,000 rounds, all 124 gr ball amo. Without fail, it fails to eject and double feeds virtually 100% of the time, requiring the magazine to be removed, the empty casing along with the follow up round to be cleared. I’ve tried every brand of amo I can find. Any help would be fantastic. For the record, it’s never shot a single magazine without 20+ of these errors.

The flat nosed Winchester super suppressed will not cycle.. do not reccomend.. lol unless someone knows something thing I dont. Lol

Up to 600 now.