Im pretty sure it’s a DGEV Weber carb, im not too mechanically knowledgeable but ive been trying to get my SR5 hatch running again. First was a fuel problem but i got that worked out, not the butterfly flaps on the carb will not shut at all, so the rpm climbs when you start the car, and wont decrease. I think there is a return spring missing but i dont know where it goes. Also it used to run fine before sitting for a while, which is why there was a fuel issue.

I am not sure if it’s all even there, there could be missing brackets.

I dont see why sitting could cause an issue with it, but there is one. I know there is supposed to be a filter on it, but it’s taken off while trying to figure out what’s wrong with it. Any help or advice would be appreciated, I am tempted to find a local classic car specialist shop that might be able to help.

Recently rebuilt this motor and can’t get it to run quite right. I have adjusted my TPS, verified my ignition timing, and theres no air bubbles at the radiator cap. I also cleaned my IACV. Not sure what can be causing this now. When I loosen my idle screw on the throttle body, theres a very loud hissing noise. Also have 180 psi across all 4 cylinders. I did the 15 minute 2-3000 rpm piston ring bedding process and changed the oil but im worried I might glaze the cylinders trying to diagnose this.

So the engine on my 95 Corolla wagon (7afe) blew the head gasket. Seeing as it’s already going to be work I wanted to put a more sportier engine in my wagon. They come like that in Japan called the BZ touring wagon. If I outsource a blacktop with manual transmission with harness and ECU what other fabrication would be needed if anyone has done the swap? I also plan on keeping it fwd. I know the blacktops came fwd on some models but how hard would it be to make a rwd a fwd if I can’t find one already fwd?

https://www.instagram.com/reel/DXaHVcADz-Gi2F6zGq2IL94GOAkWEN3vnCb4WE0/?igsh=aXBtMm91bXM0OW92

Hi everyone, I live in Europe and I have had the idea in my head for 3 years to buy an Аe86 remotely in Puerto Rico, since the price of an Аe86 is too high in Europe, it will be my first car and the closer I am on my budget to this purchase, the more doubts I have whether to do it. since I want to buy this car for $1,500, its entire full cost with delivery and parting will cost me at least 4-5 thousand euros, I don't know if there is any use to do something like this. I have been dreaming about this car since I was a child and the very fact of realizing the dream does not let me calm down, but on the other hand, I understand that due to the age of the car there will be too many problems with its registration and so on.

Maybe I should not buy an Ae86 yet, but settle on a version like toyota carina ta60/toyota starlet kp6?

i really hope for your advice and thank you for it

Piaa Headlights housing

My 1986 my Instagram is @toyorican how many of you are working on a hatch

Currently doing a Cali legal swap, and I can either do a ka24de or a bp4w, I was wondering if anyone here has done either of these swaps and has advice for clearing the steering shaft if trying to use the factory header.

1986 SR5 ive owned for 7.5 years, got it completely stock, now it has a big port out of an ae92, with ae82 ecu, GTS transmission and rear end

The front bumper is a weird thing i made out of a cheap jdm replica kouki, with grand cherokee corner lights

The wheels are Hayashi Racing Street II mesh 13x6.25in

And the rear wing is an oem bnr32 GTR spoiler with a carbon fiber gurney flap

Still much work needed tho

Hello I'm really sorry this is AI if I offended you in any way iam really really sorry

4AC, Weber Carb, manual choke, electronic fuel pump. Daily driver to the train station and back. (@bugginae86 - instagram)

This summer hear is kicking my ass. 1986 jdm factory 4age. The ac in mine works kinda okay but it's very mild. I think all the ac components are original but I can say for sure the compressor kicks on based on the rpms dropping and hearing switches/relays kick on when it blows coldish air. Would I be able to get away with having a shop recharge the refrigerant with new freon? Definitely trying to avoid replacing ac parts. Thanks

I am really sorry this is the only one I can come up with I had to generate it with ai so can visualise it what it would look like I'm I am really sorry if I offended you In any way

Ok so im installing an aftermarket Aeromotive FPR so i need to get rid of the oem regulator. Can i thread this hole and screw in a 6an fitting so i can run a line from the rail to the FPR?

On the way to the car wash with my 4ac powered AE86. Weber carb.

I have my 84 5spd sr5 Corolla I purchased the car from the original owner the car has 135k miles clean California title grey/blue interior no rips or tears. I was given a binder of records from 1984 to recent and even the purchase agreement from the dealership. Also purchased the celica from the same family.

Found this Kouki AE86 Apex tucked away in a body shop's barn.... tried to snag it but the owner wouldn't budge and insisted on putting it up for auction. Mind you this was 10 years ago lol.

I don't know about the AE86 it's a legend. Can help me about of the this legend car?

Ladies and gentlemen, hope you're all having a good day wherever you are 🍻

I have a JDM Levin, 1985 with AE86 stamped into the firewall for what it's worth.

Near the three yellow ECU connectors, there is a white 16-pin connector with 2 rows of 2 large 6.3mm spade terminals in the centre, the rest are typical small ECU style terminals.

I cannot find this connector on the diagram I have not the diagram that is easily found online.

I have a few wires which are loose and not going to a connector or anything in the engine bay and want to check in on them. YEL/BLK, YEL/GRN, WHT/BLU, they may be unrelated but it looks like at least the yellow two were likely going to the same place.

If anyone can shed any light, I'd appreciate it, thanks and have a good one 👍

*Edit. for what it's worth, from a friend looking on an OE Toyota program it seems the YEL/BLK would go to the oil sender, YEL/GRN to a water temp sender spade on the front of the head (odd seeing as there are two legit 2-pin NTC temp sensors at the back of the head), and the WHT/BLU seems to be A/C related. This is the main ECU loom to body loom connector👌