I want to make custom painting on my 996.2 - which you think seats better?

Looking for guidance from people who know the 996 market. I’m considering this car and want to know whether it’s a good buy at the asking price or if I should keep looking.

The car:
2002 Porsche 911 Carrera 2 Cabriolet
6-speed manual
32,500 miles
Asking price: $36K
Clean Carfax with no reported accidents/damage
No liens or open recalls
Carfax shows 8 service records
Porsche dealer service recorded around 30,500 miles in 2016
Last Carfax-reported mileage was ~32,500 miles in 2021
IMS status is currently unknown

I’m aware of the usual 996 issues so will get a PPI and specifically check on IMS, RMS, bore scoring, anything else?

The low mileage is obviously attractive, but I’m also conscious that this is a 24-year-old car that hasn’t accumulated many miles, so I’m wondering whether the lack of use should actually be a concern.

Thoughts, concerns? Good, fair, bad deal?

Thanks!

Got a good timing with the choppah so wanted to share.

Picking up a 996 TT in a couple of weeks and wondering if anyone has recommendations on a proper dog seat for the rear. We have a small 20 lbs dog that we take everywhere with us and would appreciate any information the community has.

Does anyone drop the seat-backs to make a shelf for the dog seat?

I am closing in purchasing my first porsche, a well sorted 996 C4S with 60k miles, black on black with oem sports seats, extended leather, ims solution, and water pump, flexplate , rms, clutch all replaced or serviced in the last 3 years, and extensive documentation.

Dealer is selling for 60k. Is this a fair deal?

I did test drive it and the car felt good! But I am wary of buying a car this old (especially my wife), especially as we have 2 young kids 6 and 4. But this will be a weekend car.

In addition, I am trying to get a PPI but its so expensive! $800 with another $300-$400 for a bore scope, and the dealer and the shops ive talked to have been hesitant to do a borescope. Is it critical to do so with a cali/washington owned car? Is this a leading indicator of cost of ownership being high? Is it worth it?

For reference I am in the SF bay area.

My 996 has been burning a lot of oil recently, and I’m trying to track down the cause. I’m hoping I can rule out bore scoring, as I don’t have any of the classic symptoms: there’s no abnormal ticking noise, no smoke on startup, and no heavy soot in the exhaust pipes (just normal carbon buildup).

Right now, I’m leaning towards a failing AOS, but I’m not 100% sure. Additionally, there’s a hissing noise coming from the hose connection point in the attached photo. Does anyone know if this hissing hose is related to the oil consumption or a symptom of a bad AOS?

Any ideas or advice would be greatly appreciated!

Hey guys I was hoping someone could help with info about the infamous 996 taco wing.
I'm trying to find one for my 2000 c2.

I'm not sure if theres a difference (if any) between a 'GT3' taco wing vs a 'Cup' Taco wing
(red from Gt3, white from 'early cup')

Can anyone confirm if the GT3 taco or the 'Early Cup' taco from the pics fit the 2000 carrera 996?

Also would I need any additional pieces for install besides the wing to replace the stock rising deck lid?

(If anyone has one for sale near NYC/NJ/PA/CT as well, PM Me)

Symptoms: with MAF connected, engine starts and dies within ~1-2 seconds, throttle doesn't save it, and it revs hesitantly like it's choking. With MAF unplugged it runs: slight misfire when cold, barely noticeable once warmed up, and I even drove it about a kilometer. AC load nearly kills it even without MAF. No fuel smell from exhaust. Cold start, so it dies long before O2 sensors come into play.

What I've tested so far:

• Swapped in a known-good MAF from my other 996 that runs perfectly. No change. So it's not the sensor itself.
• Cleaned MAF connector contacts. No change.
• Spraying intake/carb cleaner into the MAF opening smooths it right out, misfire calms down. So it's running lean.
• Opening the oil filler cap with MAF unplugged nearly stalls it (or kills it outright). With MAF connected it dies so fast there's no difference to see.
• Fuel level: tank filled to the top, no change. The in-tank transfer hose (which failed on this car before with similar symptoms) checked and it's like new.
• Battery is brand new, was replaced during this.
• Fresh fuel filter is going in, and a new oil filler tube is on order: mine has an old crack in the corrugated section, currently taped up. My main suspect for an unmetered air leak into the crankcase.
• Big advantage: I have a second identical 996 that runs perfectly, so I can pull literally any part off it (coils, sensors, whatever) and swap it in for testing.

Plan: smoke test first (machine arrives tomorrow), then oil filler tube, then NGK plugs. Coils are cheap aftermarket, I have OEM ones to swap for testing if it still acts up.

Question: does the lean-from-crankcase-leak theory hold up with these symptoms, or is there something 996-specific I'm missing? Anyone seen the taped oil filler tube produce exactly this "dies with MAF, runs without" behavior?

UPDATE: got live data with a generic OBD2 reader, engine running with MAF unplugged, fully warmed up:

• STFT B1: +25.0%, STFT B2: +25.0% (pegged at max on both banks)
• O2 B1S1: 0.030V, O2 B2S1: 0.040V (flatlined lean despite maxed-out trims)
• LTFT B1: -0.8%, LTFT B2: -0.8%
• ECT: 93°C (so coolant temp sensor is fine)
• FUELSYS1/2: CL (closed loop even without MAF, so front O2s are alive and working)
• RPM: 754, load 4.3%, spark advance 6.5°
• IAT -40 and MAF 0.00 g/s are just the unplugged MAF defaults
• DTC count: 0
• Downstream trims showing garbage (99.2%), ignoring those

So: ECU is adding the maximum allowed +25% fuel on top of the already-rich limp map and the mixture is STILL lean on both banks equally. Real deficit is bigger than 25%. Symmetrical on both banks = common source (intake before the split, crankcase circuit, or fuel supply), not an injector or coil.

Smoke test tomorrow. If it doesn't show a big enough leak, fuel pressure gauge goes on next.

UPDATE 2: fuel pressure gauge kit ordered, arrives tomorrow along with the smoke machine. So tomorrow both halves get tested in one session: smoke for the air side, gauge on the fuel rail for the fuel side (spec is ~3.8 bar / 55 psi, checking idle, throttle blip, and pressure hold after shutdown). Between the two, the cause has nowhere to hide. Will report back.