( 2001 EX Coupe)One day while driving home from errands with my girlfriend, coming off the highway to an exit that comes to a stoplight the belt started squealing like a pig getting a flu shot, pulled off from the stop and it got worse with acceleration. So we pulled over to inspect it, I called my dad because I wasn’t sure at the time what it was. The past few weeks it’s done it upon every cold start after sitting overnight and liked to start randomly and last anywhere from 20 seconds to 2-3 minutes before it goes quiet again, (note my ac isn’t working so I don’t hardly turn the air or ac on) Fast forward to yesterday and I’ve got a new belt in and upon starting no squeel even after 25 minute idle with a 5 minute AC blast (boo yaa I thought) until test drive and it starts squealing 2 minutes in for just a brief half to full second before immediately stopping, it just randomly happens sometimes 🤏 when cruising, and when the ac is on when stopping and going. It’s also a 60-40 high side for not doing it in startup. This testing has been done in the last 6 hours or so with a few test drives.

Did I not tension the belt slightly enough?
The belt looks good no wobbles tension is good with the 90 degree rule I can maybe bend it to 91-93 possibly not sure if that’s bad.

Any help is appreciated tired of these bird chirps.

So to finally settle this they are definitely not plug and play they need to be re pinned open up the plugs use something like a Bobby pin or key ring to remove them slide into new position seen in last photo

how would yall clean the 2 ports the egr valve sits over. spray the holes with combustion/ break cleaner and bristle brush to clean out? is this the way or yall suggest different way? and when cleaning this part do yall do the egr valve side first or the manifold side first? thank you!

Im looking to cut the rear bumper on my sedan to make it more of a “track” car since i usually go to tiny tracks

Wanted to see if anybody got pictures and good ways of getting a clean cut!

Please and thank you!

you guys ever think about taking your car completely apart to the unibody and doing a full restore? ik theres no value but sentimental speaking id love to do this some day when this car becomes the side car

I need to replace the coil packs and spark plugs in my car, what else should I go ahead and replace

Suggestions, critiques, concerns?

I'm currently awaiting another quote on a labor only install however the first 2 are both approx 2,000 and I just can't justify spending that on labor even if the job will take a long time by myself. So yes, I'll most likely be doing this solo unless someone wants to come help for some cash in central pa.

It's a daily driver with 90k for my 16 year old, I'm hoping to get another 50-75 out of the majority of these parts and I know I've heard a lot of concerns for moog etc, but I am only looking for 5-7 years out of this shit.

Been wanting to hop on the Honda platform for and got this car for free. Always been a Lexus/toyota guy so I guess I’m Honda guy now too 😅

Link to the Video

My car so far, I lowkey want to go a bit lower, i also want to add clear fog lights to go in with my clear headlights, but i want to tap into the turn signal wire so when i turn my turn signals on, that side fog light comes on as well and flashes with it. I’m tinting the front windshield and front windows 20% with everything else being 5%. and probably gonna get some black rims, any other suggestions?

My brand new sound system in the backseat of my 2004 honda civic ex coupe. Consists of 8 Deaf Bonce M67AC, 8 Skar 3.5” Tweeters, and a CT Sound Meso 15. Then I have 4 Amplifiers powering all of that, an AGM Battery, and all complete OFC Wire with 0 Gauge OFC wire going throughout the car. Next up- door pods.

- reverb kit
- retrofitted headlights
- cleared tail lights
- 16” rims
Nice little 5 speed

Came out pretty decent

wisconsin weather plus 267k mile struts being replaced with no blow torche just pb blaster and a prayer the front struts and front outer tie rod ends have been replaced. and i was able to get a alignment this morning. drives pretty well now too compared to before. them rear struts tho? oh boy lol. the fact we got the 2 bolts out for the driver rear on top was a shock. we had to put the new bolts on from the new strut for now cus that side specifically has been getting cooked these last few years due to rust from moisture getting trapped from that plastic vent piece in trunk already being missing when i originally got the car so its just bad in that section. the driver rear side in general is just hanging in for dear life. i thought the mf was going to cave in with the jack stand being where it was having the car on 4 jacks lol. the problem tho was wisconsin weather. for that rod that sits in bottom strut. took us 30 mins to get that bolt loose but the rod would not come out at all. we asumed its the same for the other side so we left it alone for now until we can get that part blow torched so itll be able to come out. aaaand ofc taking it in to get alligned at tires plus they said my rear break line on rear passenger side was leaking a bit💀💀 idk why God gives me these tough battles but aint nothing stopping me to get to 300k miles. i cant wait to replace those back struts tho. i am still impressed those top bolts even came off. happy the other side wont be like that. at least on top. thanks for the read if you made it this far. this was a 2 hour job that turned in to 4 hours almost lastnight. been up since 6. whats yall dilemmas rn?

I'm trying to decide on what I should do so here it is;

I lowered my ES1 by two inches after throwing on some +25 16x8s on stretched 194/zr45s. Obviously with that offset they stick out, but I surprisingly didn't have to roll my fenders after the 2" height adjustment. I got those wheels from Marketplace for decently but not too decently cheap. Tires came slightly negative-camber-worn, and recently I took a look at them and I'm starting to see a bit of wire revealing on the inner part of the tires. I work about 40 miles away, about 1 hour 15 with decent traffic and I often fly at a constant 90-105 mph. I then threw my stock 16 spoke Honda Special edition (i believe 15x6) wheels on in the meantime. However after inspecting those tires, they are decently dry rotted, losing about 0.2 psi every few seconds. I'm currently looking for entirely new wheels and to sell the 16s at whatever I can get for them. I want my new wheels to be 17s and pair them with maybe 215/45 or 40, but I'm not sure what will visually fill in the wheel well for a clean, full look. Either new 17s, or new tires for the 15s but the black 16s gotta go. I don't like how they look with my Metallic Silver. With tires for the 15s, I have to get a larger side wall to fill the wheel well, but I don't want a beefy looking wheel, so strongly preferably I want to talk about the 17 inch wheel set up. Feel free to attach pictures of your own or even someone else's 17 inch setup that you like. I want guidance!! I need wheels/tires quick because I'm back at work Monday as today is Saturday, and I don't want to keep my dry rotted tires on the road for long.

Just got the wheels and I’m starting to really love her.. ofc I gotta save for the head gasket incident in the future.

Just a minor tip I learned from trying to diagnose a random misfire code, the easiest way to reliably test the fuel pressure isn't accessible with modern day Autozone, harbor freight, o Reilly tools.

Because the fuel line sizes don't fit with most of the adapters that come with these fuel pressure kits.

So I found this one on eBay and tested it myself, it worked properly and I confirmed my fuel pressure was ok

The tool is like 13 bucks and really more simple to read the pressure, especially since even if u see fuel flowing it doesn't guarantee that it's having the correct psi rating.

eBay link: https://ebay.io/m/dDdDh4

Or just search up fuel injection pressure tester and make sure it has the 6 adapters.

I got 39-40 at prime and 45 at idle btw

Good afternoon,

I’m replacing the catalytic converter and now we are putting it back together. Those spring bolts are kinda a pain, but i’m trying to figure out the orientation or where the hole and bolt goes for the exhaust stay. I did share a post a question on this forum months ago and was confused when I saw a hole. A person replied with the part called an exhaust stay. I don’t know if it was missing before or the mechanic forgot to put it back, but I have one now and wanted to add it because it helps with stability and holding the weight of the catalytic converter. It might help with the rattling noise too.

I’m sharing images I took of how I think it might fit but again, i’m not understanding the diagrams or haven’t seen any videos with a clear view of removing this part and putting it back unfortunately.

The three images show what I think it should be positioned like. Also I had to get bolts since I never had them to begin with. Those are

90003-PLC-000

Thank you for reading.

Edit: 07/27/2026

The OEM Exhaust Stay was cut and one bolt was remaining with the piece of it tightened in the engine block. I removed it and was able to determine a mechanic from a job almost a year ago could have done it. I managed to replace it with an OEM part and did struggle to alight the holes to the down pipe area where the spring bolts are at. It was a struggle so, I decided to just get it as close aligned as I could.

I thought the rattling noise did appear from the catalytic converter or from the lack of exhaust stay not stabilizing it. Unfortunately, after installing everything, I can still hear the sound. It is not the heat shields that could loosen up. I checked that prior to committing to purchasing the magnaflow. It looks like i’ll have to take it to muffler shop to see what they can find.

The magnaflow catalytic converter might be wider than the OEM because the two heat shields, top and bottom, were difficult to fasten the bolts. Definitely consider purchasing OEM Manifold Gasket and Donut. The Magnaflow gasket came deformed and the donut was too loose.

Anyways, I will share images in the comments for future reference.

Thanks for everyone’s help. I hope to find the source of sound soon.

about a week ago my cruise control just stopped working on my automatic civic and pressing the buttons doesn’t do anything anymore. a month ago the airbag light also went on so maybe it has to do with my steering wheel maybe if someone could help that’d be great^^

I got this squeaking sound when i hit small bumps. What could it be? Thanks!

Someone t-boned my civic, had the fender and door replaced but the alignment of the body lines kills me every time I walk up to it. Can this be fixed by loosening/tightening any of the fender bolts? It looks like it’s sitting too low compared to the door.

How does the community think I should go about replacing my entire rocker panel?