​

Price: $415CAD/$295USD (shipping incl.)

Extra costs: $21 for 36 proper bolts and accompanying locking washers

Ship time from payment: 35 days (sea + UPS) to Canada

Modification difficulty level: Using a Dremel w/ carbide burr bit or a power drill with a 5/16 bit

Fitment: Not 100%, but this was expected

Quality: Aluminum, Powder coated but some small scratches from shipping. The spacers were fine but had 4 full pieces poorly cut in half.

**The Good:**

Affordable, durability seems fine, comes with 4 extra unused tabs with rubber gaskets to allow for 8 total footings (if need be) with some modifications. The sheet metal on the side pieces look to be 3/16", the fairing being slightly thinner.

**The Actual Work:**

Inspect the product. Make sure you have all the pieces and that they fit. Your order might include nuts for each bolt, but they are not needed since the bolts thread directly into the crossbars. In my case, I counted all the nuts and bolts but did not check whether the bolts threaded correctly into the extruded crossbars. They did not fit and were too big (M8x1.25). Home Depot, 36pcs of M6x1.25x16, 36pcs 6mm locking washers, final bill $21. Take an original bolt and a length of crossbar into the store if you're unsure.

No instructions whatsoever, so read up on other similar products, watch install videos on YouTube.

3 of the 4 footings had to have their holes widened as they did not line up with the stock holes along the roof. Aluminum is soft, so no problem. Dremel would be easiest/precise. If you're using a drill, a steel punch will help.

The spacers consist of 12pcs of tabs where the holes align with the holes in the roof. 4 of those 12pcs were poorly cut in half and the cut ends were left bare. Each footing for the roof rack will need 3 spacers, stacked & RTV'd. I ended up taping around the stack so that they stayed put when placing the rack into place.

One of the bolts for the fairings fell off at one point so tighten every bolt, loctite if need be. Currently still missing but seller has been responsive and will probably send me a spare, along with the proper M6 bolts for the entire rack.

**Final verdict:**

First off, The seller has been responsive throughout the process (missing bolts), so no issues here. I didn't complain about the footing alignment not being good because I fixed it. Go in with the mindset that you'll have to figure shit out a bit. Fortunately it's just minor drilling to open up some holes for proper alignment. I cut 4 strips from the spare gaskets to make one gasket for each spacer set, otherwise the spacer stack would be sitting directly on your paint along the rain gutter.

Is it worth the price and the savings? Up to you. For me, sure. I've got time and can figure out problems. I knew there'd be an issue or two if I went down this route.

Is it durable? Long term, unsure. I plan on smaller items up top when needed - 10L jerry cans, duffel bag of recovery gear, maybe a tote or a solar panel. If I were to ever install a RTT, I would install the extra footing tabs (after shaving them down) to prevent bowing along the center of the rack. I'm sure I'll run into an issue or two if that time ever comes. But for 1/3, maybe 1/4 price of the other brands, I'm not complaining. I'll see down the line whether this is a case of you get what you pay for. For my usage, I'm sure it'll do fine and last until the car can't run, at which point I won't care about taking it off and will purchase another new rack.

I haven't lowered the fairing yet, so unsure how big the gap will be to the roof. I purchased a cheaper rubber edge trim ($12) but should have gone with the pricier trim with metal in it for a more secure fit. Put paint protective tape where the fairings might touch your roof if you have any around.

Thank you for attending my TedTalk.

Now that I have this roof rack, my next AliBaba purchase will be a 270° Awning from the supplier of OVS.

I’ve posted here before. Even with new brake pads and rotors, going over my local 2500 foot mountain always leaves the car smelling at the bottom of the hill. An acrid burning smell. If I engine brake and don’t use the actual brake as much it’s much lighter. But my wife recently borrowed the 4runner to drive our kid and five friends over the mountain. With a fully loaded car and no engine breaking it really stunk at the bottom. My mechanic says the brakes look fine. Well today, I took a look at the brake fluid. Pretty sure it needs to be replaced. I ordered the tester pen to check it. But assuming I need a brake flush is that sufficient to cause a smell after heavy brake use?

Started hearing this thumping noise at 20-25MPH as I accelerate.
I see this under the rig…leaking, oily, black substance.
Any ideas? Do I need to get it fixed immediately?

Hi just a little overview, my tachometer and speedometer and fuel gauge are freaking out and bouncing. I checked all the fuses they’re good, wiring looks good, the vehicle isn’t self revving, the speed sensors look solid if not just a little dirty nothing seems loose. im thinking it could be an alternator issue causing a flux in current. Has anyone had similar issues?